+-

Author Topic: rock climbing  (Read 485 times)

Offline cycle1667

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 5
rock climbing
« on: July 13, 2010, 04:33:32 pm »
Any one here with unusual pro, tri-cams, hand drills, biners or the like?
C

Offline Mr. Whippy

  • Global Moderator
  • Absolutely No Life Club
  • *
  • Posts: 6,963
  • Country: um
  • North American Meetup: May13-15 2011
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2010, 04:58:28 pm »
Not so much into trad.  I do ice climbing so more along the lines of screws, crampons, ice tools, and slings.   Big fan of BD Turbos but I have a couple Grivel 360's for when a screw HAS to go in RIGHT NOW!

Also, I tend to prefer wiregates to solid gate 'biners because they don't freeze up. Omega Pacific 5-0 are really nice to manipulate with gloves on.  Screwgate lockers preferred over twistlock for the same reason.

Generally climb with doubles rather than singles or twins too.

If my feet were better, I'd do more rock, as it is, a stiff soled boot like my La Sportiva Nepals are the way to go.

Offline Pacu

  • No Life Club
  • ******
  • Posts: 3,653
  • Country: us
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2010, 10:51:52 pm »
I loved rock climbing when i was in scouts. I was little and wirey back then. .............now not so much :'( ;)

Offline Shane769

  • No Life Club
  • ******
  • Posts: 1,097
  • Country: ca
  • Gone Climbing.
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2010, 05:57:26 am »
I don't really have much for fancy stuff. BD Positron is my anchor locker of choice. BD Hotwires or Wildcountry Heliums for wiregates. Wildcountry quickdraws. BD Dynex runners. Petzl Harness with a Metolius PAS. La Sportiva ( <3 ) Muira VS shoes. Currently a Beal rope, POS in my opinion, stepping up to a Sterling for next season I think. Not really a trad guy... yet.
"I would rather live 40 years of excitement and fun and exhilarating and just WOOOO, full volume, then 80 years of la di di di da... you know... boring. Why not get out there and live it?!"

Offline Mr. Whippy

  • Global Moderator
  • Absolutely No Life Club
  • *
  • Posts: 6,963
  • Country: um
  • North American Meetup: May13-15 2011
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2010, 10:32:13 am »
My Beal Jokers are excellent, but yeah, generally Beal ropes have a rep for shedding their sheath.

Around here, Mammut are popular ropes.

Offline Shane769

  • No Life Club
  • ******
  • Posts: 1,097
  • Country: ca
  • Gone Climbing.
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2010, 01:24:47 pm »
I'm not one to just hate on a piece of gear for the name, the one I have is just... well, a guy pulled off about ten feet up whie locked, and the rope stretched to the point his feet were on the ground.... BUNGEE CORD! :ahhh
"I would rather live 40 years of excitement and fun and exhilarating and just WOOOO, full volume, then 80 years of la di di di da... you know... boring. Why not get out there and live it?!"

Offline Mr. Whippy

  • Global Moderator
  • Absolutely No Life Club
  • *
  • Posts: 6,963
  • Country: um
  • North American Meetup: May13-15 2011
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2010, 03:44:09 pm »
I'm not one to just hate on a piece of gear for the name, the one I have is just... well, a guy pulled off about ten feet up whie locked, and the rope stretched to the point his feet were on the ground.... BUNGEE CORD! :ahhh

For ice climbing, that's kind of a good thing--less shock loading on the gear.  It's one of the things I like about the Jokers.  Used as 1/2 ropes, it adds a level of comfort that your screws aren't gonna pull out.

(BTW, I've decked with my Jokers while practicing placing trad gear--amazing how quickly you hit the ground when a piece pulls loose :ahhh)

Offline Shane769

  • No Life Club
  • ******
  • Posts: 1,097
  • Country: ca
  • Gone Climbing.
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2010, 12:11:44 am »
Yeah I can see its advantages over stiffer ropes in a trad/ice environment, same as not using a GriGri. But in sport climbing, I prefer something with less dynamic elongation.

(BTW, I've decked with my Jokers while practicing placing trad gear--amazing how quickly you hit the ground when a piece pulls loose :ahhh)
:ahhh :ahhh Scariest part of trad for sure.
"I would rather live 40 years of excitement and fun and exhilarating and just WOOOO, full volume, then 80 years of la di di di da... you know... boring. Why not get out there and live it?!"

Offline Shorty66

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 205
  • Country: spam
Re: rock climbing
« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2010, 10:45:34 am »
I LOVE my Camp ballnuts. They are really strong and fit in those craks where normally only super fragile micro cams go.
My other favourite gear is:
BD Turbo Express, BD ATC Guide, BD Couloir (comfortable yet light),
Petzl Ange Quickdraws (superlight wiregate-keylock biners), Petzl TiBloc (for those fast moving secure ascents and crevasse rescue),
Camp XLH 95 ...

My favourite rope so far a is a tendon master 7.9. Even though its a half rope i often carry just one in the alps wich i use in half (double string) for climbing and normally for glacier travel.
Its superlight and the shielding is superb.
 
T - `cause i like tea :)

 

+-Donations

Operational Funds

Keep the Unworkable working!
Donate with PayPal!
February Goal: $250.00
Due Date: Feb 29
Total Receipts: $160.00
PayPal Fees: $10.25
Net Balance: $149.75
Below Goal: $100.25
Site Currency: USD
60% 
February Donations

+-Community Links

EDC Source
Multitool.org
Multitool Gallery
Multitool Wiki
SAKWiki
SOSAK Online
Powered by EzPortal