In an effort to keep things transparent and to justify why these things cost so much to make, I've decided to write a tutorial on how I make SkinthXLs
http://www.ericaustudios.com/index.php?/softprod/the-skinth/.
This is a long read folks, make some popcorn, get a soda and settle in.
First I mark out my materials. I've laid my cuts based on size and maximum efficiency, everything fits within a nice rectangle, this way I can make sure I have enough material to make one.
Gotta make sure those edges are square, so I use a square and tailor's chalk for marking.
I use a small 15mm rotary cutter to slice up the blocks and a cork backed ruler. Those damn things are rolling knives of doom if you aren't aware.
I modded a cheap tanto blade (Gerber EVO) and dulled the edges so I can use it to score and turn seams. Here I am folding over what will be the flaps for the side pouches. I fold them over asymetricaly, you'll see why soon.
Here I start the sewing portion, it goes pretty quick from here. I take the prefolded pocket covers and measure out about 2" of loop and slowly tack it into place and extend the seam down all the way to make a nice clean edge with no repeat stitches.
After running around the entire perimeter of the flap (with one of the edges doubled over as a finger hold under the velcro) I run a basting stitch along center, having folded it asymmetrically, the flap is now sealed under.
Repeat 2 times and we have 2 cover tabs, I set those aside for a while.
Now I turned my attention to the main closing flap. I have prefolded it with a 1/8" seam on one side and folding the remaining material to meet that seam. Working with PVC backed 1000D nylon, you try and avoid unnecessary layers.
I run a 1/8" hem on the large side.
Then clip the material in place and run a 1/8" hem on the otherside. With this method of making the flap, you avoid having to sewing it inside out and flipping it over, at this scale, it's nearly impossible to flip over this thick of a material.
I go ahead and label the major component locations, Velcro, Belt Loop, Tool Pouch. I get confused and this eases the mistake count. At this point, I seal the edges and add the finger pull. I draw a line using the square and cut it off, fold the other edge over it and then score. Tucking the flap inside and placing the doubled over webbing inside.
tack in place with a 1/8" hem and double stitch.
Next up is a huge patch of loop velcro. Even tho I only use a 1" strip of hook on the main body, the 2" patch will never miss it's mark on that 1" patch. I box stitch this in place and flip it over.
X-mark's the spot! Run a widely spaced line for security.
Repeat the line, cut, and tuck of the tab on the other side. This particular client wanted a loop on the bottom. A premade loop (made like the side pouch flaps) is position and sewn into place.
I mark out where the lines will go for the front slot pocket for the Bit Kit card. I also mark the centers of each piece so I can register them.
Before I make the pocket tho, I have to add the main flap's corresponding hook portion. Box stitch and go.
I add the hook patches for the side pouches.
Then I sew a U shape to form the bit kit pocket.
I bartack the last 1/4" of the line for added strength and durability.
I retrieve the side pocket flaps and box sew them into place on both sides.
Beginning to look like a sheath!
I tack the side pockets edges to the material behind it forming the tubes using widely space stitches.
I use the same scoring/seam turning knife to sharply crease and postion the folded bottom of the side pouches.
I plunge the needed into one of of the folds and proceed. Turn it around and go back for a double stitch.
Finished side pocket construction. You'll also notice the large swatch of material is folded and creased under on the bottom. This will form the bottom of the sheath, but it needs to hemmed in place to create a nice box shape.
Flap hemmed in place.
Home stretch. At this point, I mark how low I want the sheath to sit on the belt as well as how large the belt loops needs to be. I typically go with a 2" belt size because there is nothing worse than a belt loop that is too small
A doubled over 1.5" webbing is used.
But before I add the belt loop, I add a single line down the entire length of the flap to increase it's strength and rigidity.
Box stitch the belt loop in and triple stitch the inside line.
I then run a line around the outside perimeter of the belt loop before tacking it down, this greatly increases it's strength.
Now the two great halves unite. Clipped into place. You'll notice it isn't flush with the bottom of the flap, this is important for later.
Using the previously tacked line of stitches as a guide, a neat 1/8" line of semi tight stitches binds the top half with the flap. This is done slowly as there potentially could be up 6-7 layers of material to combat with.
The tube is formed.
taking a long pair of shears I go inside and cut the large flap of material held inside up to about 1/2 from the bottom of the tube. (it's a little tough to see)
By cutting, it frees the flap from the inside and I am able to flip it out.
I then fold the sides under and then like wrapping a Christmas gift box, the tip of the flap is tucked under and clipped in place.
After running a double line across the bottom edge where there was a 3/8" space left this not only completes the bottom but also the project!
I clean up any stray loose threads and using a small butane torch lightly burn off the wax tailor's chalk.
Then I set up the photo studio and make the sheath work for it's money.
Back side:
Fill it with goodies to make sure the fit is alright. In this case, a Surge, a Bit Kit Card, a CR123 flashlight and a SRM 710 Folder.
I hope this has been informative and sheepishly I am using this tutorial to justify the price of this sheath. Even after making over 5 prototypes and 10 actual ordered sheaths, this still takes me a solid 45 mins from start to finish. Accepting more orders!
Hack on!
