And so it begins.... (My adventures into Alox!)

[enki_ck]

Peter's gonna need some steel toed boots just in case he drops it.

[Syph007]

Peter's gonna need some steel toed boots just in case he drops it.

Its still smaller than a swiss champ

[Monrogue]

That's similar to my MechaRogue . Very nice.  Love that black/red theme.  So you haven't done any with T&T yet?

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

Nope I would have had to make the slots before anodize.  If I end up doing home anodize then I can do that better instead of guessing ahead of time.  So far Ive only done the tweezer on a Ti91.

Oh and now its been 8, 91mm mods and still only 1 corkscrew.... where is the love of the corkscrew eh!

Well I know when next year comes around and my annual Syph job is near, I'll want T&T in my scales.  I'd probably want the reverse color scheme of the MechaRogue, red scales with black liners and cross (if you're doing that).  Man, I can't wait

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

[Syph007]

A new review video for anyone who speaks German. 

I hope he liked it since I dont speak German. 

[Etherealicer]

A new review video for anyone who speaks German. 

I hope he liked it since I dont speak German. 

First, its mostly general information:
- about brass liners
- tang stamp
- presentation of the tools
- blade material, hardness of the tools

About your work:
Unlike other modders your work has the same built quality as a factory model, the blade has no side to side play and the implements have the same snap as the factory model.
He also mentions the price and warns that those modded knifes loose the Victorinox warranty.

Finally he does some comparison to the Farmer:
Weight goes up from 85g to 122g, that is quite a jump (is this due to the brass liners?)

[Syph007]

A new review video for anyone who speaks German. 

I hope he liked it since I dont speak German. 

First, its mostly general information:
- about brass liners
- tang stamp
- presentation of the tools
- blade material, hardness of the tools

About your work:
Unlike other modders your work has the same built quality as a factory model, the blade has no side to side play and the implements have the same snap as the factory model.
He also mentions the price and warns that those modded knifes loose the Victorinox warranty.

Finally he does some comparison to the Farmer:
Weight goes up from 85g to 122g, that is quite a jump (is this due to the brass liners?)

Thanks for the synopsis!

Brass does weigh a bit more but that model has an extra backspring and phillips too.  I probably should compile a list of models with their weights.

[Etherealicer]

A new review video for anyone who speaks German. 

I hope he liked it since I dont speak German. 

First, its mostly general information:
- about brass liners
- tang stamp
- presentation of the tools
- blade material, hardness of the tools

About your work:
Unlike other modders your work has the same built quality as a factory model, the blade has no side to side play and the implements have the same snap as the factory model.
He also mentions the price and warns that those modded knifes loose the Victorinox warranty.

Finally he does some comparison to the Farmer:
Weight goes up from 85g to 122g, that is quite a jump (is this due to the brass liners?)

Thanks for the synopsis!

Brass does weight a bit more but that model has an extra backspring and phillips too.  I probably should compile a list of models with their weights.

That would be very interesting

[neillcurrie]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

I suspect you could make the brass screwed part, and solidly insert the screwdriver blade somehow (maybe a tight press fit would be sufficient, as the torque on the blade is very miniscule). But you'd have more of a problem tuning the fit of the whole screwdriver into the corkscrew.
Brass doesn't have the "give" that plastic offers, the fit would need to be especially precise, and maybe a tight cork or two would ruin the fit again 

I don't think a tight fit is necessary. A little play would be fine, it can't fall out anyways. I remember seeing a metal one posted here on MTo some time ago.
I'll ask a friend of mine who just upgraded his 3D printer to a very sophisticated model. Maybe he can print one in a cool material/color.

The "tight fit" I was writing about referred to the screwdriver blade fitting into the brass screwed body. That has to be at least resistant to any screwing forces.
I agree, the whole screwdriver could be fairly lose in the corkscrew as it can't go anywhere.

[Syph007]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

I suspect you could make the brass screwed part, and solidly insert the screwdriver blade somehow (maybe a tight press fit would be sufficient, as the torque on the blade is very miniscule). But you'd have more of a problem tuning the fit of the whole screwdriver into the corkscrew.
Brass doesn't have the "give" that plastic offers, the fit would need to be especially precise, and maybe a tight cork or two would ruin the fit again 

I don't think a tight fit is necessary. A little play would be fine, it can't fall out anyways. I remember seeing a metal one posted here on MTo some time ago.
I'll ask a friend of mine who just upgraded his 3D printer to a very sophisticated model. Maybe he can print one in a cool material/color.

The "tight fit" I was writing about referred to the screwdriver blade fitting into the brass screwed body. That has to be at least resistant to any screwing forces.
I agree, the whole screwdriver could be fairly lose in the corkscrew as it can't go anywhere.

I bet a tight fit hole could be drilled, then heat the part up to make the metal expand and insert the bit.

Brass expands/contracts with heat so I think that would work. 

[Syph007]

I took a quick video of the troubleshooter before it went off to it's new home in the UK. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Dgnc_o3P9M&feature=youtu.be

[Syph007]

Now Im back to 93mm moddin' with a pioneer + phillips today. 

[Syph007]

Oh and next up is the first use of the liner locks finally!

It's actually going to be first used for the rescue blade from a 111mm SAK.  The blade will need a little tweaking but it looks like it should work fine.

[pfrsantos]

Oh and next up is the first use of the liner locks finally!

It's actually going to be first used for the rescue blade form a 111mm SAK.  The blade will need a little tweaking but it looks like it should work fine.

Any particular reason for the wavy cut? I'm guessing it's stronger, because a straight cut would be easier to make.

 

[kosmo]

Oh and next up is the first use of the liner locks finally!

It's actually going to be first used for the rescue blade form a 111mm SAK.  The blade will need a little tweaking but it looks like it should work fine.

(Image removed from quote.)

[Etherealicer]

Oh and next up is the first use of the liner locks finally!

It's actually going to be first used for the rescue blade form a 111mm SAK.  The blade will need a little tweaking but it looks like it should work fine.

Any particular reason for the wavy cut? I'm guessing it's stronger, because a straight cut would be easier to make.

 

I presume, its at a clients request

 

[Syph007]

Oh and next up is the first use of the liner locks finally!

It's actually going to be first used for the rescue blade form a 111mm SAK.  The blade will need a little tweaking but it looks like it should work fine.

Any particular reason for the wavy cut? I'm guessing it's stronger, because a straight cut would be easier to make.

 

In an attempt to not have any stress points.  No right angles etc. 

[HarleyXJGuy]

A new review video for anyone who speaks German. 

I hope he liked it since I dont speak German. 

First, its mostly general information:
- about brass liners
- tang stamp
- presentation of the tools
- blade material, hardness of the tools

About your work:
Unlike other modders your work has the same built quality as a factory model, the blade has no side to side play and the implements have the same snap as the factory model.
He also mentions the price and warns that those modded knifes loose the Victorinox warranty.

Finally he does some comparison to the Farmer:
Weight goes up from 85g to 122g, that is quite a jump (is this due to the brass liners?)

Thanks for the synopsis!

Brass does weigh a bit more but that model has an extra backspring and phillips too.  I probably should compile a list of models with their weights.

Yes weight and width would be great. Can't start it till you build my custom now that I am back home.

[Heywood Floyd]

A new review video for anyone who speaks German. 

I hope he liked it since I dont speak German. 

First, its mostly general information:
- about brass liners
- tang stamp
- presentation of the tools
- blade material, hardness of the tools

About your work:
Unlike other modders your work has the same built quality as a factory model, the blade has no side to side play and the implements have the same snap as the factory model.
He also mentions the price and warns that those modded knifes loose the Victorinox warranty.

Finally he does some comparison to the Farmer:
Weight goes up from 85g to 122g, that is quite a jump (is this due to the brass liners?)

Thanks for the synopsis!

Brass does weigh a bit more but that model has an extra backspring and phillips too.  I probably should compile a list of models with their weights.

Maybe you could ask owners for a weighted reply ...
My build #102 = 89.8 gms
My build # not in gallery (but URL below) = 73.5 gms
http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,34772.msg1026847.html#msg1026847

[mudtracks]

hey guys, I'm actually in the middle of doing a mod and basically I'm trying to figure out the using a chunk or extra brass rivet to fill a 1/8hole so I can drill a 1/16 hole but I keep running into a problem after I've filled the hole, filed the excess brass away and smoothed it over to flush. upon re-drilling the smaller hole, the brass doesn't want to hold up. once it heats up from the drilling it pokes through into the wood I'm using as my base under my component. should I be using more of a solid base so the brass doesn't poke through into a soft material like wood? Or I think I read that brass expands and I should heat the brass after I've filled the hole to make it more secure in it surroundings before I drill my smaller hole in there? Thanks!

[Syph007]

hey guys, I'm actually in the middle of doing a mod and basically I'm trying to figure out the using a chunk or extra brass rivet to fill a 1/8hole so I can drill a 1/16 hole but I keep running into a problem after I've filled the hole, filed the excess brass away and smoothed it over to flush. upon re-drilling the smaller hole, the brass doesn't want to hold up. once it heats up from the drilling it pokes through into the wood I'm using as my base under my component. should I be using more of a solid base so the brass doesn't poke through into a soft material like wood? Or I think I read that brass expands and I should heat the brass after I've filled the hole to make it more secure in it surroundings before I drill my smaller hole in there? Thanks!

Are you peening the brass before you file it?  You really need to peen it well on both sides to get it to expand firmly against the walls of the hole you're filling, then remove excess from both sides.   

[mudtracks]

[/quote]

Are you peening the brass before you file it?  You really need to peen it well on both sides to get it to expand firmly against the walls of the hole you're filling, then remove excess from both sides.   
[/quote]

Actually no, I wasn't peening it at all. Which explains why it was poking through.  The brass really has nothing to grab ahold of. I'll give it another shot! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction

[Syph007]

Actually no, I wasn't peening it at all. Which explains why it was poking through.  The brass really has nothing to grab ahold of. I'll give it another shot! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction

I suppose I should have just said hammering as you dont actually want to peen heads on the brass but rather force it to expand in the middle, so just hit it with the flat of a hammer, then file off the excess after it's locked in good and solid. 

[Syph007]

If you have 3D CAD drawings of the parts you should be able to get pretty accurate surface area values.  Good luck with it, I'm interested to see what results you obtain 

I did some reading on anodize theory, its really facinating.  The alum oxide grows perpendicular from the surface like little hairs from the surface.  The spacing of those 'hairs' its what determines the hardness (not layer thickness as I had thought).  Now.. the higher the current density the smaller the pore size (space between the hairs) and the harder it is to dye which is why hard anodize has less dye options as only some dyes are small enough to fit in the smaller pores!

Similarly if the current density is too low, the 'hairs' are too far apart and the dye wont be trapped, and color will leak back out even if sealed.

So!  This is right up my alley for careful controlled experimentation and taking notes it will be like being back in the lab, but making cool parts too...

And now that I found blue masking lacquer, I can mask off the shields and then dye the scales any color! 

Welcome to Syph's Science series!

After more reading I got the facts on doing hard anodize.  In short the differences from standard anodize in terms of process are

- Current density increased to 18-24 amps/sqft
- surfuric acid bath concentration 2:1 (2 parts water + 1 part battery acid)
- Keep electrolyte bath at a constant 37-40F
- Aggressive agitation of bath to disperse heat

The difficulty factor is maintaining the bath temp.  If it strays from the 37-40 range the cell (they are called cells aparently not 'hairs') density will decrease and they will facture and apear as white blemishes on the surface.  Since there is much higher current being dumped in the bath, it heats up faster so some sort of better cooling is required.

So it is quite possible to hard anodize at home if you have the right setup.  Its completely possible to hard anodize a set of scales as the surface area and needed amperage are low. I would just need to be able to tweak bath temperature, but it might be possible with frozen water bottlers or similar...

But as there are limited color dyes to use with hard anodize a compromise anodize of Type II with a thicker layer of 0.002" can be made (standard is 0.001") and still dyed any color which sounds like the way to go for doing the OD green and orange I want! 

Here is a pic I found of what the alox growth looks like close up.



And a cell - pore schematic

[tommywp]

I'm thinking a knife less 91mmm would be cool with saw, metal file and scissors. Is there any flexibility in the backtools for these 3 layers? I think I remeber reading that you're stuck with the hook, but could the fine screwdriver and awl fit?  Is there a way to cover the corkscrew cut out using either the stock scales or the sweet new ones?

[HarleyXJGuy]

I'm thinking a knife less 91mmm would be cool with saw, metal file and scissors. Is there any flexibility in the backtools for these 3 layers? I think I remeber reading that you're stuck with the hook, but could the fine screwdriver and awl fit?  Is there a way to cover the corkscrew cut out using either the stock scales or the sweet new ones?

Or some kind of back tool spring combo that has no space for the CS? Of course a scale that did not have the cut out also.

Hmm I think I just described every Alox ever made. 

[tattoosteve99]

Do you think the toothpick will work same as the tweezers did?

:wave: ??

[Syph007]

Do you think the toothpick will work same as the tweezers did?

:wave: ??

I think not as the tweezers hold themselves in since they have resistance.  The toothpick on cellidor scales have that little nub to click in.  Could make the slot with bend it in maybe i dunno.  I never used the toothpick so I dont see myself going to extraordinary effort to find a spot for it.    Maybe I could do a Ti toothpick, that would keep to my rule of eliminating plastic...

I'm thinking a knife less 91mmm would be cool with saw, metal file and scissors. Is there any flexibility in the backtools for these 3 layers? I think I remeber reading that you're stuck with the hook, but could the fine screwdriver and awl fit?  Is there a way to cover the corkscrew cut out using either the stock scales or the sweet new ones?

Ive actually got a couple orders for Ti mods with no blade layer. IM just going to make full scales for the back to solve the cutout issue.  The awl works in place of the hook ok, so that would be a good choice.   

[tommywp]

I'm thinking a knife less 91mmm would be cool with saw, metal file and scissors. Is there any flexibility in the backtools for these 3 layers? I think I remeber reading that you're stuck with the hook, but could the fine screwdriver and awl fit?  Is there a way to cover the corkscrew cut out using either the stock scales or the sweet new ones?

Ive actually got a couple orders for Ti mods with no blade layer. IM just going to make full scales for the back to solve the cutout issue.  The awl works in place of the hook ok, so that would be a good choice.   

Sorry dude...when I was asking if the 91mm scales had a full back scale to cover the cut out I was asking about the alox hand grenade ones, not Ti....forgot that a guy like you has more then one set of 'sweet new scales'!!!!

Also, could the pruner blade or electricians blade go opposite the bottle opener on a 91mm?

[Syph007]

I'm thinking a knife less 91mmm would be cool with saw, metal file and scissors. Is there any flexibility in the backtools for these 3 layers? I think I remeber reading that you're stuck with the hook, but could the fine screwdriver and awl fit?  Is there a way to cover the corkscrew cut out using either the stock scales or the sweet new ones?

Ive actually got a couple orders for Ti mods with no blade layer. IM just going to make full scales for the back to solve the cutout issue.  The awl works in place of the hook ok, so that would be a good choice.   

Sorry dude...when I was asking if the 91mm scales had a full back scale to cover the cut out I was asking about the alox hand grenade ones, not Ti....forgot that a guy like you has more then one set of 'sweet new scales'!!!!

Also, could the pruner blade or electricians blade go opposite the bottle opener on a 91mm?

I never tried the eblade in the opener layer on a 91mm, but it could probably fit.

No I wont be making 91mm alox with no cutout on the backscale, that wouldn't be worth the cost to have produced as the demand would be very low.  I would recommend to someone base the mod on a 93mm alox which already doesn't have backtools or the cutout, that would be the way to go.   

[tommywp]

Thanks man. I'll wait a few hours until I win the March Donation prize and we'll take it from there