Modding a Rebar questions

[J-sews]

This thread is in response to a few questions that came up in the Leatherman REBAR Multitool thread:

annnnd again...

Bob, can you compare the plier pivots to a wave/charge to see if we can swap the heads?!?

Hi Eric,
I didn't try it, but the plier heads look to be completely interchangeable. Here is a photo of a Fuse laying on top of a Rebar:





Here are the same two tools, with the plier heads directly in line with each other. The size and shape of each is identical, except for the "jowls" on the Rebar head that serve to reinforce the wire cutter insert pockets:





Pivot diameters and widths are identical:

[Gareth]

Fantastic shots Bob and very helpful.

[J-sews]

Can anyone determine whether it'd be possible to get a Fuse, Blast, or Wave scissors in there if you took out the can opener and lanyard ring or something?
I'm really thinking the Rebar would be a perfect replacement for my Fuse if I can get scissors in it somehow.

Folding scissors on the Blast, Fuse, Wave 2004, and Charge models are the same. I started off with a Knifeless Fuse, pictured here alongside a Rebar. (Rebar on left, Fuse on right)





First order of business is to remove the knurled screws that the blades pivot upon. This is relatively easy on the Fuse, as the screw heads protrude nicely from the surface of the handle. It's not so easy on the Rebar, due to the recessed pocket that the screw heads are in. Careful work with two sets of needlenose pliers can get the job done, but it takes a steady hand. Having a friend hold the Rebar while you use the pliers to loosen the screws helps.

A word of caution: Both the Rebar and the Fuse use a pivot axle that has small flats on it. When loosening, do not turn the axle or you will strip out the flats in the handle holes. Instead only turn the screw.




It is impossible to tell which is the axle and which is the screw though..? So remember: on the Rebar, the axle head will be on the side of the handle which has no markings. On the Fuse, the axle head will be on the side of the handle stamped LEATHERMAN FUSE.

 

[J-sews]

Once the pivot axle is removed, all the blades come spilling out in a pile. I always take a photo of the blades/tools BEFORE disassembly, as later it can be quite difficult remembering which order they were in.


Adding scissors to a Rebar:


Note that because of the thumb pad, Leatherman scissors have to be installed along the right hand side of the handle, as seen in the Fuse below:





On the Rebar, one handle has a file on the right hand side, and the other handle has a saw. Both knife blades are on the left side of their respective handles. But not to worry, if you wish to remove a knife blade in order to make room for your scissors, simply put the saw or file over on the left side, as both of these tools have slots going all the way thru them instead of nail nicks, meaning they will work just fine on either side of the handle.


So, the scissor tool is two pieces (the scissors and the spring) which have a thickness of .100" (or 2.5mm)  But the knife blade is only .070" thick, which doesn't create enough space. And removing the lanyard ring too, which is .060" thick, creates TOO much space. The solution is to find a small washer or spacer at the hardware store that measures about .030" thick.

IN: scissors + washer = .130" (3.25mm)  OUT: knife + lanyard ring = .130" (3.25mm) 

 
 


A quick re-assembly job and Presto! the Rebar has scissors, right?





Unfortunately NO, there are a couple minor issues.

Problem #1, the screwdrivers and awl on the Rebar are a bit longer, and the thumb pad on the scissors gets in the way. (see photo below) Thankfully, it looks like a simple fix to grind away a small portion of the thumb pad to clear, or alternatively you could grind back the screwdriver a short ways.





Problem #2, the scissor does not fold all the way into the handle. See how high it protrudes above the other blades?(see below)





Folding open the blades reveals the problem; It is held up on the underside, by the pivot "bump" of the lock release lever:





The other long blades of the Rebar have a small V-notch cut into them, in order to clear the pivot bump.





Fortunately, I'm sure it would be a simple matter to grind a V-notch relief into the scissor as well, which would allow it to close completely.





So being a collector, I have no interest in completing the Rebar scissor mod myself, but I can see no major obstacles for those who would like to give it a try.

[nuphoria]

Excellent stuff Bob, thank you

[J-sews]

Excellent stuff Bob, thank you

No probs Chrissy. So what else was it you were wondering about blade substitutions?

[nuphoria]

Well, I'd have to lose the serrated blade too, so was wondering what else might fit in to that gap?

[J-sews]

Well, I'd have to lose the serrated blade too, so was wondering what else might fit in to that gap?

Well, lots of other stuff would fit in the gap, but the Rebar has such a nice tool compliment already, there aren't many Leatherman options left to choose from.


Hmmm, how about a SOG serrated line cutter?  (lock notch would have to be widened, not a big deal)

[AHB]

Excellent thread Bob.. 
Now I really need to get my hands on a Rebar... 

[Gareth]

superb walk through Bob.

[nuphoria]

Well, I'd have to lose the serrated blade too, so was wondering what else might fit in to that gap?

Well, lots of other stuff would fit in the gap, but the Rebar has such a nice tool compliment already, there aren't many Leatherman options left to choose from.


Hmmm, how about a SOG serrated line cutter?  (lock notch would have to be widened, not a big deal)

That's still considered to be a knife over here I suspect, but the SOG V-Cutter might work instead... hmm...

You're right that a Rebar has the basics covered well, but I hadn't considered SOG bits. This is why I asked you

[David]

Thanks Bob, very interesting. I do not have any interest in modding the Rebar but interesting to see any way.        

[maba]

Thx! You're awesome

[Metropolicity]

Hi Eric,
I didn't try it, but the plier heads look to be completely interchangeable. Here is a photo of a Fuse laying on top of a Rebar:

(Image removed from quote.)

Here are the same two tools, with the plier heads directly in line with each other. The size and shape of each is identical, except for the "jowls" on the Rebar head that serve to reinforce the wire cutter insert pockets:

(Image removed from quote.)



Pivot diameters and widths are identical:

(Image removed from quote.)

This only means one thing my friends...the search continues for 2 BO and a stainless Rebar. I haven't seen them in canada yet, but we are always about a month behind.

I WONDER if there will be a problem with the 'jowls' like the Surge/ST300 head swap. You need to remove the blade safety spring locks to accomodate the width of the head. I am anxious to see if these'll work.

thanks Bob.

[diracismyhero]

Very helpful thread! I just wanted to comment on the cutout that would be necessary for the scissors. If I understand this correctly, in order for the scissors to sit flush when they are closed, the notch needed in them would have to be made right on the cutting edge of the scissors, because the scissors would be in the fully open position as apposed to the closed position as shown?

Ben

[turnsouth]

This is too tempting, I'm going to have to order a Rebar and use the head to try and make a ReCharge.

Are there any caveats on Charge disassembly?

[Metropolicity]

This is too tempting, I'm going to have to order a Rebar and use the head to try and make a ReCharge.

Are there any caveats on Charge disassembly?

Use two bits. Heat the pivot up a bit to loosen the loctite.

The plier pivots are round so need to worry about stripping a flat portion.

[Threeme2189]

Folding scissors on the Blast, Fuse, Wave 2004, and Charge models are the same. I started off with a Knifeless Fuse, pictured here alongside a Rebar. (Rebar on left, Fuse on right)

(Image removed from quote.)

That part ticked me off  bit. You do know that this is Multitool.org right? 

 

[Mercury]

He has to clarify for all those suspension owners Multitool beginners that may be reading.

[J-sews]

He has to clarify for all those suspension owners Multitool beginners that may be reading.

Hehehe, good one!

[J-sews]

Very helpful thread! I just wanted to comment on the cutout that would be necessary for the scissors. If I understand this correctly, in order for the scissors to sit flush when they are closed, the notch needed in them would have to be made right on the cutting edge of the scissors, because the scissors would be in the fully open position as apposed to the closed position as shown?

Ben

Hi Ben,
yes, the scissors are closed in the photo, but the clearance notch would have to be made right where I've indicated with the white circle.

[MedusaOblongata]

Since, when the scissors are folded into the tool, they are in the fully open position, would the necessary clearance notch cut into the cutting edge of the scissor blade?

[Mercury]

It would appear that the only protrusion above the handle is the nail nick, is there a way to remove what's needed and retain any portion of the nail nick, or would that leave the thumb tab in the way of the pliers?

[J-sews]

(Image removed from quote.)

It would appear that the only protrusion above the handle is the nail nick, is there a way to remove what's needed and retain any portion of the nail nick, or would that leave the thumb tab in the way of the pliers?

You guessed it, the scissor thumb tab would then unfortunately be in the way of the plier jaws, preventing the tool from folding up completely.

[J-sews]

Since, when the scissors are folded into the tool, they are in the fully open position, would the necessary clearance notch cut into the cutting edge of the scissor blade?

Eek!! How did I miss that?! Good spot Medusa




Unfortunately, I'm afraid this pretty well kills the idea of modding Fuse/Blast scissors into a Reber. Now we'll probably have to wait and hope Leatherman makes a special scissor for the Rebar with a longer shank.

[Mercury]

What if you moved the scissors to fill the spot where the lanyard ring and the medium driver fit (with a washer of course)?  Then you could put the medium driver where the file is or retain the file but the scissors won't have any issues with anything. 

[J-sews]

What if you moved the scissors to fill the spot where the lanyard ring and the medium driver fit (with a washer of course)?  Then you could put the medium driver where the file is or retain the file but the scissors won't have any issues with anything.

So in other words put the scissors more towards the center of the tool? Yeah, I thought about that. It would get them away from the lock-bar pivots, which is good. But now I'm worried they would hit the lock bar return spring, which sticks up somewhat (shown just to the left of the "AO1" in this picture:
 

[Mercury]

That's a valid concern, and I don't think there's much that can be done about it.  LM had to make the tips of those springs round due to a large amount of warranty issues due to them breaking, so while grinding a crescent off of one side would work, it would weaken the spring.  They were breaking left and right on Core and Blast models.

[nuphoria]

Well bugger it then!

[AimlessWanderer]