Sharpening SAK'S with Lansky

[captain spaulding]

I tried sharpening a SAK with my Lansky Sharpener and i'm just not getting great results. I used all the stones as well as the Sapphire finishing stone. I did the large blade first at 20 degrees and got it sharper, but nothing close to how it came from the factory.  Next was the small blade which I decided to do at 25 degrees. when checking the edge with the all so simple thumb test from left to right it felt good, but I ran it right to left and it felt dull like I rolled the edge. Is it just me or do I still need to get used to the Lansky system? Should I use less pressure on the stones as I move to the finer stones or use the same pressure for all the stones? Any help would be appreciated.

[Metropolicity]

I did my Deluxe tinker the other day and used the 25 degree setting (3rd hole fr bottom). I have the diamond set and went through the three gamut and finished with a super sapphire blue hone and it came out razor and sparkly.

The steel is pretty soft but one smooth stroke should get you from tail to tip.

[captain spaulding]

How many passes do you do per stone?

[Metropolicity]

How many passes do you do per stone?

I think I only use the medium grit at 30 per side, then fine at 20, then 10 per side. The sapphire at 40.

I also did 10 light passes on the 30 degree with the sapphire to give a micro bevel.

[captain spaulding]

Alright thanks.   

[Sparky415]

Captain

I would try going back a grit and using a sharpie (I also use a desk light and magnifier) the first time you use it on a blade you will need more time with the coarse stones, I know on Utube they only take 30 seconds 

Not to be rude but maybe you need more patience and time at the beginning? 

When I first got my lansky system I practiced on my Spartan, I have a 17* and a 20* edge on the two blades and just use a leather strop now 


Good luck 

[mvyrmnd]

I've found that too - the first time you sharpen a blade on the Lansky you effectively have to re-profile the edge to set it to the angle you're using.

It takes a while, but worth it in the end.

[Styerman]

The first few times a sharpie and a lo powered magnifier are handy , nice to see where you are hitting .

That pretty much goes for any system . Second piece of advice , practice on reasonable quality paring knives ( Vic. , or Henkels with the cast plastic handles - cost about $3.95 ) .

Chris

[captain spaulding]

Thank you everyone for all the great advice. 

I have a desk light setup as well as a magnifying glass handy. I will definitely use a sharpie to find out what exactly is going on.

Captain

Not to be rude but maybe you need more patience and time at the beginning? 


Good luck 

I definitely agree with you there. The thing that I don't understand is I used the same Lansky sharpener to put a pretty good edge on a old Spyderco Delica. Everything worked out great and it was actually the first time I ever used the Lansky. Once I try and sharpen a SAK it just never works out. I do completely agree I need to be patient. 

[Sparky415]

Good luck with it Mate 

[AimlessWanderer]

I've found that too - the first time you sharpen a blade on the Lansky you effectively have to re-profile the edge to set it to the angle you're using.

It takes a while, but worth it in the end.

This for me is the problem with using the Lansky. If you try to sharpen a different knife, or grip it different to last time, you have to remove a lot of material before you get anywhere near the edge. Getting a Lansky was the best thing I did regarding knife sharpening, because it taught me I need to learn how to sharpen freehand. As it happens I still use the Lansky from time to time ... for reprofiling

[captain spaulding]

I've found that too - the first time you sharpen a blade on the Lansky you effectively have to re-profile the edge to set it to the angle you're using.

It takes a while, but worth it in the end.

This for me is the problem with using the Lansky. If you try to sharpen a different knife, or grip it different to last time, you have to remove a lot of material before you get anywhere near the edge. Getting a Lansky was the best thing I did regarding knife sharpening, because it taught me I need to learn how to sharpen freehand. As it happens I still use the Lansky from time to time ... for reprofiling

I'm thinking this might be what happens to me, but only time will tell. 

[sergemaster]

Amici,
Add me to the club of unsatisfied Lansky users. The time I owned one which was quite a few years ago, I was never a big fan of the results. Also as a southpaw, I found it a tad cumbersome.. Next in my book will be a Spyderco Sharpmaker, since I've heard nothing but great results..

Cheers,
Serge

[EddieEnzyme]

I'm sure I read somewhere that Vic's factory grind is 30 Degrees, meaning that the Lansky's 25 degrees won't actually be touching the edge, more the "shoulders" of the edge until the angle is eventually reprofiled..

[captain spaulding]

I'm sure I read somewhere that Vic's factory grind is 30 Degrees, meaning that the Lansky's 25 degrees won't actually be touching the edge, more the "shoulders" of the edge until the angle is eventually reprofiled..

I though Vic's grind was 25 Degrees?  :think:I definitely could be wrong though.

[Metropolicity]

I'm sure I read somewhere that Vic's factory grind is 30 Degrees, meaning that the Lansky's 25 degrees won't actually be touching the edge, more the "shoulders" of the edge until the angle is eventually reprofiled..

I did the initial marker grind test and 25 on the dot.

[EddieEnzyme]

I'm sure I read somewhere that Vic's factory grind is 30 Degrees, meaning that the Lansky's 25 degrees won't actually be touching the edge, more the "shoulders" of the edge until the angle is eventually reprofiled..

I did the initial marker grind test and 25 on the dot.

Ah well, that's that idea out of the window.

Heh heh!

[EddieEnzyme]

Aha - found it!

From Victorinox.com, care and preservation section:

Sharpening

Re-sharpen using a whetstone at an angle of 15° - 20°. This will result in a cutting angle of 30° - 40°. If sharpening on a grinding wheel, always cool with plenty of water to avoid excessive temperatures.

I knew I wasn't going mental.

[Frankctz]

I just received my lansky delux system and try to sharp a GAK aitor and basically same problem as the first post, could no sharp as good as I would like, I will continue trying but probably need more practice and correct angle, probably a little reprofile...So, I will continue trying/practice

[Aleister]

I am having great and fast results sharpening SAKs with lansky 5-stone sharpening kit (usually I use just 280 and then 1000 hones for retouching), leathermans are another story though.

On the other hand, I am finding myself using manually the lansky hones (or other sharpening stones) on my knives more and more as I am learning how to manually sharpen knives.

So, even if Lansky slowly becomes less useful for me, it helped me learn how to manually sharpen knives better. Just like using training wheels to learn how to ride a bike.

[Metropolicity]

I am having great and fast results sharpening SAKs with lansky 5-stone sharpening kit (usually I use just 280 and then 1000 hones for retouching), leathermans are another story though.

On the other hand, I am finding myself using manually the lansky hones (or other sharpening stones) on my knives more and more as I am learning how to manually sharpen knives.

So, even if Lansky slowly becomes less useful for me, it helped me learn how to manually sharpen knives better. Just like using training wheels to learn how to ride a bike.

You know what's funny is that I just sharpened a leatherman charge AL with a 154cm blade and it was bang on 25 degrees. The best thing I think about lanskys is that it gives you repeatable results. Same angle all the time.

[Sparky415]

I just received my lansky delux system and try to sharp a GAK aitor and basically same problem as the first post, could no sharp as good as I would like, I will continue trying but probably need more practice and correct angle, probably a little reprofile...So, I will continue trying/practice

Do you use a sharpy along the edge? I find it really does help 

[captain spaulding]

I am having great and fast results sharpening SAKs with lansky 5-stone sharpening kit (usually I use just 280 and then 1000 hones for retouching), leathermans are another story though.

On the other hand, I am finding myself using manually the lansky hones (or other sharpening stones) on my knives more and more as I am learning how to manually sharpen knives.

So, even if Lansky slowly becomes less useful for me, it helped me learn how to manually sharpen knives better. Just like using training wheels to learn how to ride a bike.

You know what's funny is that I just sharpened a leatherman charge AL with a 154cm blade and it was bang on 25 degrees. The best thing I think about lanskys is that it gives you repeatable results. Same angle all the time.

This is what initially attracted me to the Lansky. I just need some more practice I guess.  I marked the edge on a SAK and i'm going to see whats really going on.

[Aleister]

I am having great and fast results sharpening SAKs with lansky 5-stone sharpening kit (usually I use just 280 and then 1000 hones for retouching), leathermans are another story though.

On the other hand, I am finding myself using manually the lansky hones (or other sharpening stones) on my knives more and more as I am learning how to manually sharpen knives.

So, even if Lansky slowly becomes less useful for me, it helped me learn how to manually sharpen knives better. Just like using training wheels to learn how to ride a bike.

You know what's funny is that I just sharpened a leatherman charge AL with a 154cm blade and it was bang on 25 degrees. The best thing I think about lanskys is that it gives you repeatable results. Same angle all the time.

I haven't tried a Charge yet but I tried a Juice with not much luck and a couple of days ago a Squirt (black is sharpened, red is never sharpened):



I started sharpening the black Squirt at 30^o and I couldn't make it really sharp. Then I tried reprofiling it to 25^o and I still couldn't make it really sharp (I think you can "see" my determination on the blade's sharpening ). Then, I manually used a 280 stone at both sides of the blade (default sharpening is on one side only) and after two hits per side, it became really sharp.

Now, don't get me wrong, I like the Lansky system, I just haven't figured out yet how to make it work perfectly with some blades.

[mvyrmnd]

I got the blade on my Charge TTi and Kershaw JYD2 phonebook paper slicing sharp with the Lansky system, but others for some reason just refuse to get sharp...

It's the irony of this system. Perfectly repeatable results, sometimes.

[Metropolicity]

This came up on EDCF lately and it came down to practice.

Sharpmaker....Lansky...any system comes down to muscle memory. For me I like the ease of use, although sometimes a pain to clamp.

But I haven't found anything as precise in the same price point Ahemwickededgecough.

I got my 154cm PE leatherman blade mirror finish with nothing more than the diamond set and and extra super sapphire stone. I tried to take a photo of the edge reflecting my Kinetk Gear Ring that I am trying out as my wedding band.

[dks]

I use the Lansky a lot for regular knives, though I also sharpen some curved or small knife or multitool blades (e.g. LM Sc2) freehand.

The trick is to make sure you are gripping the knife at the same point, in the Lansky clamp, every time and use the same angle.
Thus I have suggested a few times that people take a picture of the ideal set-up they use with every knife, once they find it, to remind them of it, for the individual knife, every time.

Generally I use more pressure at the beginning, with the rougher stones and use less pressure with the finishing stones.

Make sure you take enough time with the rougher stones, to get the blade reasonably sharp and remove any metal that you do not need, before moving to the smoother stones, as this are not designed for removing a lot of metal quickly.
Originally I did not spend enough time with the rough stones so it was a pain to get asharp edge later, with the smoother stones.

I also always, when I finish with a stone size give the blade a quick once over with the stone on the opposite side to the one I was working on to remove any burr, before moving to the next size stone
.
Again, I strive for push-cutting paper and shaving hair, not anything more (e.g. Toilet paper slicing).

[AimlessWanderer]

Good point on the pressure. Too much pressure will just distort the edge, and featherlight passes are needed for final sharpening. For those who are struggling to get an edge on using a Lansky, I'd say ...

1) Make sure you are acutally removing material right to the edge (sharpy marker) on both sides.
2) Ease off the pressure and let the stones do the work or you'll just be bending the edge away from the stone and weakening it. Too much pressure can also cause the blade to rock in the clamp meaning you are no longer working at the edge, but hitting the shoulder of the two bevels (undoing the checks you did in point 1 and changing the new angle too)
3) Finish off by stropping or steeling (lightly) if you can to ensure the edge is straight and burr free. Even clamping at the same point you'll still get some (albeit minor)inconsitencies, and a final alignment (no metal removal) will just help the edge point in the right direction.

Finally, if you have chosen a narrow angle, allow the blade to "rest" before stropping/steeling AND do not strop/steel the knife immediately after use. The blade steel may have some "memory" issues and should be allowed a few hours to relax to its natural position. These memory issues can be caused by heat treatment or machining, don't make it worse by grinding your blades unevenly. Always alternate between the two sides and avoid hitting one side heavier than ther other unless it's a major reprofiling job to correct a bad grind by the manufacturer. Wider/sturdier grinds will be affected far less by this

[Styerman]

No offence intended , but before going with any system , you should learn to sharpen freehand with a stone , followed by a strop . By relying on systems , you get short term gain , but long term pain .

Chris

[dks]

Most people will go with a system so that they do not need to sharpen free hand or even learn how to do it.