The multitool of the automotive world!

[derekmac]

The mounting screw on the right should be what's giving you a ground.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I figured that..... but I assume the yellow  wire from the light connects to the existing wire and the black just grounds out to the frame?

That doesn't sound right?

Def

[ducttapetech]

Yes. Also the mounting bolt on the right is the ground. The black is a ground but is not really needed but double grounding is nice and makes sure you get good connection. Also you would use the black wire if the light was mount on something non metallic, say like a plastic faring or a nose clip.
Did that help any?

That's us mobile

[Grant Lamontagne]

The confirmation of what to do is very helpful, thanks.  My understanding of electricity however, which has always been dangerously slim, has just taken a large step backwards. 

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

I got my utility trailer back today- the landlord has been storing it at his cottage for the winter, and he has been using it for the weekend, and just returned it today.

I can see it has taken a few hits over the winter, so, as I am planning to take it for an 8 hour (each way) drive this week to go get my boats, I figured I'd better put some time into fixing it up a bit.



The first thing I had to do was fix my wheel jack.  The brackets holding it on to the tongue had both been bent- you can see one that I'd already straightened before realizing I should be taking pics.   

Both were bent as badly as the bent one in the photo, and I wasn't sure how to go about straightening them.  I could have beat them with a hammer, or I could have pressed one of our camp stoves into service to heat the metal, but it occurred to me that I could use the rail on the trailer, the bolts used to hold the wheel jack on the tongue and a little thing called mechanical advantage.



By running one bolt through the most arched point of the bracket, and all the way through the trailer rail and attaching a nut, then a second bolt through another hole to keep it straight I then used my ratchet to turn the nut and pull the bracket to more or less straight again.





In the end I think it made a very significant difference. 



Here it is all put back together again!



While taking the jack apart at first I noticed another, much more important job would also need to be done- one of the wires from the harness wasn't actually leading anywhere.  I know very little about electricity, but I'm pretty sure that low voltage wires like this one have to be connected to something in order to work.   

Out came the SOG Sync I, a roll of electrical tape and a roll of silicone stretch and hold tape.  I have to say, I know this is blasphemous in this crowd, but I love this stuff more than duct tape.   



The great thing about wiring this harness (I wired it in a couple of years ago) is that it is nice and simple- you simply match the colors.  In this case it was even simpler, as there was only one wire not leading anywhere.  The Sync I made short work of the stretch and hold tape I used last time, as well as the electrical tape that was holding a dead end on the wire, which should come as no surprise as SOG seems to always do an amazing job of sharpening things to the point where they are just dangerous to hold, let alone use.



It didn't take much to reconnect the wires, then I wrapped them in electrical tape, and then wrapped the whole thing back up in stretch and hold tape, which should keep the weather out for at least another couple of years.





And that's about it- the trailer is ready to go again.  I am maybe going to try and paint it this year as it's pretty scuffed up, but overall it's in great shape and I am glad to have it back, even if it takes up my one and only parking spot.   

Def

[MusicMen]

Def, the brackets on the stand would not bend as easy if they were on the other way with the rails aganist the tongue. You have to bend twice as much metal that way.   

[Grant Lamontagne]

Yes but then there would be less contact with the tongue and it might slip a bit more.

What I figure I need are some blocks of wood to fill the large gaps between the tongue and where the bolts are.  I hate bolting something that is bolted that far away from the piece it is supposed to be attached to.

Def

[ducttapetech]

Nice work, however, two things.
1. The duct tape comment
2. Why don't you have a miners wrench?
  Just messing with ya boss.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I had a feeling that you wouldn't like the duct tape comment, but I love that silicone tape and I use it everywhere.

As for the miner's wrench, what's the difference between that and the big adjustable wrench in the background of the pics?

I also have pipe wrenches if you think I need to go bigger. 

Def

[ducttapetech]

Miner's  wrench has a Precision thumb detector on it. 
I

[Grant Lamontagne]

I just use the big head on that adjustable as a thumb detector. 

It is more effective than I'd like to admit.   

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

It seems that there was more wrong with my trailer than I thought.  I will need to replace the wiring harness for it and I have used my last spare tail light cover.  It seems like every time someone borrows it is need to replace a tail lights cover. 

I had bought them in bulk..... guess I'll see if I can find less obtrusive tail lights for it.

I already have a new harness on order.

Worst part is, I can't really get annoyed with the guy who was borrowing it as he let's me store it at his cabin for free, when it would cost at least $30/month otherwise. 

Plus, when you look at the way he treats his car, the relatively minor damage to my trailer makes me wonder if this is his version of babying something.

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

I took my trailer out yesterday and the lights still didn't work- I am guessing it is the terrible old harness, so I went to Princess Auto today to buy a new harness and get rid of any leftover weak links.  I completely rewired the trailer a couple of weeks ago and had to use a nasty old harness that I took out of the old wiring, so I am not surprised it has issues.

While I was at Princess Auto I spotted something I have been wanting or some time- a spare tire carrier.



It was all of about $35, I I believe it is the same one that Derek linked to earlier in this thread:

Princess Auto sells a tire mount that should do what you need. 

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/heavy-duty-spare-tire-trailer-mount/A-p8112575e

As you can see, the spare used to be inside the bed, taking up space, and held there by bungee cords..



It's not often that I need the full interior space of the trailer, but when I do I find the spare tire to be a complete pain in the butt.  I have wanted to move it outside of the bed for some time, and I finally have.



I am not really a huge fan of where it is now, but until I can get my hands on a more powerful drill (I only have a small Black & Decker cordless drill at the moment) I am going to have to deal with it being mounted on the tongue.  My plan is to eventually have it mounted on the bed frame, preferably on one side or the other.



You can see that it mounts with the same kind of setup as the wheel jack does.  I initially thought I might do away with the small rails it bolts into and attach it opposite the wheel jack, using the same bolts, but the spacing on them is nowhere near the same, so it had to go by itself.

The replacement coupler needs to go straight down on the ball, which is something it can't really do with the Jeep's spare in the way, so I may have to move this spare to open the Jeep's back door when attaching it, or I'll have to buy a hitch that drops even more.  I already have a 3 1/2" drop and I don't really want to go any lower.... especially since the next size is 5" which I think may put my trailer lower than I'd like.

Of course, as soon as I can get access to a powerful enough drill my plan is to use the top set of holes on the spare mount and run those through the upper frame of the trailer, then bolt the others to the grillework, probably just over one of the vertical parts of the frame for extra stability.  This is probably more work I will do in the spring at my father's place, unless I can get back to Halifax in the meantime to pick up my own drill.

Either way, it gets the spare out of the way for now, which was the ultimate goal. 

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

This is likely where I am going to end up mounting the spare tire.

Def

[Syncop8r]

I imagined it was going to go on the outside of the old location...

Next you need to attach an ammo box to store tie-down rope, straps etc. 

[Syncop8r]

If on the side I would have it on the non-road side, the less time spent close to traffic when accessing it the better.
Also might be better lower down so if you ever want to transport something big and flat on top of the cage it won't be in the way.

[derekmac]

Looks good! 

[Grant Lamontagne]

If on the side I would have it on the non-road side, the less time spent close to traffic when accessing it the better.
Also might be better lower down so if you ever want to transport something big and flat on top of the cage it won't be in the way.

Lower down was a thought but then I don't think it would be mounted as solidly as it would on the top of the frame.  I had considered flipping it upside down so it angled downward though, and therefore would be sticking up as little as possible.

And yes, I will put it on the passenger side to keep me out of traffic as much as possible.  I have very little desire to get squashed while changing a tire!

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

I imagined it was going to go on the outside of the old location...

Next you need to attach an ammo box to store tie-down rope, straps etc. 

I don't want to put it on the front as it is a tilt deck and the further forward it is the more weight I have to contend with when tilting the trailer.  Plus with the Jeep spare on the back and the boats overhanging it, it would be more awkward to get to when needed.

And yes, I do want to (eventually) put a tool box on the front.  I would like a sizeable one to put a jack, some jack stands, a tire iron, maybe a compressor and a small shovel (Maybe my Cold Steel one) and a few other things.

Def

[Syncop8r]

I imagined it was going to go on the outside of the old location...

I don't want to put it on the front as it is a tilt deck and the further forward it is the more weight I have to contend with when tilting the trailer.  Plus with the Jeep spare on the back and the boats overhanging it, it would be more awkward to get to when needed.

OK, I will allow that then. 

And yes, I do want to (eventually) put a tool box on the front.  I would like a sizeable one to put a jack, some jack stands, a tire iron, maybe a compressor and a small shovel (Maybe my Cold Steel one) and a few other things.

Sounds like you need another trailer just to carry all that. 

[jzmtl]

You could always install a hitch at back of the trailer, and tow another smaller one behind it! 

[Grant Lamontagne]

I imagined it was going to go on the outside of the old location...

I don't want to put it on the front as it is a tilt deck and the further forward it is the more weight I have to contend with when tilting the trailer.  Plus with the Jeep spare on the back and the boats overhanging it, it would be more awkward to get to when needed.

OK, I will allow that then. 

And yes, I do want to (eventually) put a tool box on the front.  I would like a sizeable one to put a jack, some jack stands, a tire iron, maybe a compressor and a small shovel (Maybe my Cold Steel one) and a few other things.

Sounds like you need another trailer just to carry all that. 

I just need one of these, preferably one that doesn't cost $600.... 



Def

[Syncop8r]

Not the ones I was thinking of (probably too narrow) but http://www.herooutdoors.com/nato-40mm-l-70-beaufort-ammo-can/
My friend has just the standard .50cal box welded to the drawbar. http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/ammo-cans-storage-containers/50-cal-ammo-box-grade-2.html

[Grant Lamontagne]

Those are indeed nice, but I want to put farm jack in it and some jack stands.  The stands are probably about 10" square on the base and the jack is roughly 40" high.

Def

[Gerhard Gerber]

I'm a bit surprised to see the towbar on your trailer, locally trailers will have a triangular towbar or a  combination of something like yours with supports from the outside corners of the trailer to just before the hitch 

Quite frankly, I would be nervous loading my toys in that trailer! 

[Grant Lamontagne]

I don't.  I have loaded well over a thousand pounds in this thing and had only one serious issue with it.  Now with the thicker metal tongue I doubt I will have that issue again. 

I have the kind of triangular tongue on my camper but I see lots of straight tongues like this one on trailers that are heavier than mine.  Of course, if I had access to welding equipment I think I'd probably beef it up some because that's just something I like to do.

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

I've made a few changes to my trailer lately.  First off, I have added the spare tire carrier that I mentioned above, and upgraded the wheel jack to a more useful one.  A few months ago I also picked up and older Thule cargo box and spent a fair bit of time refurbishing it.  I've put wider crossbars on the trailer and mounted the boats on the outboard sides of the bed, while the Thule box sits in the middle.  The Thule box is a 250L model originally imported in the 80's for skis, but it does a great job of holding all of my kayak gear, including sprayskirts, paddles, safety kits, pfd's, carts and other stuff.



It all fits together nicely and tows pretty much the same as it did before.  I thought with the boats sitting wider that they may catch the wind a bit more, but so far I haven't noticed any differences.



I think I will have to set the cross bars back a bit more as the big boat (pink one ) sticks forward a bit too much and actually scratched the fiberglass top of my Jeep the other day while I was trying to turn too tightly to get out of a parking lot.   



Last summer I ripped out all of the existing wiring since it had been damaged in the infamous Day From Hell and rather than continue to patch it up I just redid it from scratch.  I also made sure to run the new wiring through ABS conduit to make sure it is protected in the future.

I used to have a big Rubbermaid bin that I kept my kayak stuff in, but not everything fit in it.  The Thule box isn't much bigger than the Rubbermaid bin but it is a better configuration and everything fits into it much better.



In fact, it is long enough that I could (theoretically) carry some of my paddles assembled, but I really don't see any need to do that.  Instead I have them disassembled, with all of the blades in the most forward section of the box, so they don't come in contact with anything that might chip, crack or break them.



Also, unlike the Rubbermaid bin, the Thule box locks and is bolted on, so I feel a bit safer leaving things like my expensive paddles in it, knowing they should be relatively safe.  Yes, they can still be stolen, but it will take some effort. 

The worst part is, everything fits so well into the Thule box that I feel like I am forgetting things- with the old setup I would put the box on the trailer, then get the paddles, then get the carts etc.  Now it is all there and I can't help but feel like I have left something behind!   

Def

[SteveC]

Nice set up !   

[Grant Lamontagne]

Thanks!

The Thule boxes are super expensive to buy new but this 30 year old model was listed locally for $100 so I decided to give it a try.  I wasn't 100% sure this was the setup that I wanted to go with, but I really wanted to see if it worked.  The box is difficult to access with the boats on, but that's not too big a deal because it's only boat stuff in it.  The blue Rubbermaid bin you see on the trailer has straps, cargo nets and other general trailer stuff in it and is easily accessible.

The box has two locking latches, both keyed alike.  The box came with one key, which I almost immediately broke off when bringing the box home.  It cost another $60 for a local locksmith to service the locks, cut two new keys and remove the old key fragment, but it was well worth it- the locks are as ultra smooth as they day they were made! 

I used Mr Clean Magic Erasers on the outside of the box and removed the Thule stickers that were cracked and torn and falling off.  The plastic looks like brand new now, not the 30+ year old plastic it really is.  I thought about painting it, but it came out so nice that I didn't feel I needed to.

I'll post pics of the process as soon as I find them.... I have no doubt that if I decide I don't like it I'll be able to get more back from it than I put into It, so thats always a good feel8ng!

Def

[Syncop8r]

This might be a dumb question... but why not have the kayaks pointing 'in' rather than 'out'?