Nice pic for middle of Winter. Wanaka?
Everything looks seated correctly (assuming left hand front as you're in the US), you have two small Philips screws on the side of the break, they adjust the tension of the spring so you can make sure both sides contact the rim at the same time.
To see the adjustment those small screws make, you squeeze the lever and see it return. Each side is going against the other. The pad itself will be adjusted by a 5mm. Leave around 2-3" and then tuck it into the caliper:Its fine fettling to set them up perfectly, a back you only get through lots of experience and helps put people like myself through college!
Quote from: Henry on July 04, 2015, 07:56:19 AMTo see the adjustment those small screws make, you squeeze the lever and see it return. Each side is going against the other. The pad itself will be adjusted by a 5mm. Leave around 2-3" and then tuck it into the caliper:Its fine fettling to set them up perfectly, a back you only get through lots of experience and helps put people like myself through college!I will just have to fiddle with it and see what I can do. The brakes work well enough to be safe so i'm not to concerned but would like to get them working perfectly without having to pay $75 for a tune up. Do you mean leave 2''-3'' on the cable and cut there? I don't think I can tuck it into the caliper.
I cut the cable and tried putting the cap on and crimping. Since the MT's I used to cut the cable sucked the big one (Rebar and MP400) the end was frayed. I could not get the cap on and almost gave up and while putting the tools away noticed my Teflon tape. I got the idea to use a small piece and wrap the end of the frayed cable. It worked to keep the together and let the cap slide on enough for me to crimp it down.
Quote from: captain spaulding on July 04, 2015, 11:05:01 PMI cut the cable and tried putting the cap on and crimping. Since the MT's I used to cut the cable sucked the big one (Rebar and MP400) the end was frayed. I could not get the cap on and almost gave up and while putting the tools away noticed my Teflon tape. I got the idea to use a small piece and wrap the end of the frayed cable. It worked to keep the together and let the cap slide on enough for me to crimp it down.That belonged to another thread...
I finally got the time and $$ to put new tires on my bike. I got a set of puncture-resistant semi-slicks and new tubes for $60 installed. The change was instantly noticeable. The bike handles better and the ride is not as sluggish on the pavement as it was with the off-road rubber it came with. One or two more little things and my department store mountain bike will be a nice urban ride.
That's a fantastic ride mate! I really do think the bicycle is key to our environmental woes Sent from my K013 using Tapatalk
Can you take it back as it sounds like its not fit for purpose???Sent from my K013 using Tapatalk
Bikes are packed from Taiwan etc, and then every single bike at a shop has these adjustments, if you skip the shop part, then you have to do them yourself. The good thing is, its not rocket science, so if you're mechanically minded you can easily do it yourself. I no longer work in bike shops, but I do everything apart from suspension cartridge service that requires nitrogen.I wouldn't worry about stripping your cranks, just use a 15mm wrench. The pedal axle themselves will be 9/16" with a coarse thread, so its not easy to cross thread, and if its stiff then don't force it! Cranks mainly strip when they receive and impact and don't have steel inserts.You don't NEED a bike stand, but they make working a lot easier. Though it is essentially just a way to secure the bike with the wheels in the air. When I first started racing I can't count the number of times I tuned my gears with the bike upside down in a muddy field. If you have a garage/shed just having something suspended from the rafters will be more than adequate for the odd job.If you do get into cycling more however, it can be just as addictive, and every more expensive than knives and tools!
Quote from: Henry on July 09, 2015, 10:23:20 AMBikes are packed from Taiwan etc, and then every single bike at a shop has these adjustments, if you skip the shop part, then you have to do them yourself. The good thing is, its not rocket science, so if you're mechanically minded you can easily do it yourself. I no longer work in bike shops, but I do everything apart from suspension cartridge service that requires nitrogen.I wouldn't worry about stripping your cranks, just use a 15mm wrench. The pedal axle themselves will be 9/16" with a coarse thread, so its not easy to cross thread, and if its stiff then don't force it! Cranks mainly strip when they receive and impact and don't have steel inserts.You don't NEED a bike stand, but they make working a lot easier. Though it is essentially just a way to secure the bike with the wheels in the air. When I first started racing I can't count the number of times I tuned my gears with the bike upside down in a muddy field. If you have a garage/shed just having something suspended from the rafters will be more than adequate for the odd job.If you do get into cycling more however, it can be just as addictive, and every more expensive than knives and tools!I'm sure I can make the adjustments myself. I just need to do some research first. I have a pedal wrench already so that's good. The only thing I was wondering about is when I assembled the bike there were warnings on installing the pedals. The right side pedal screws in clockwise. The left side pedal screws in counter clockwise. Both pedals are market with either a "R" or "L" for left or right. Are ALL pedals marked "R" or "L" and do ALL pedals screw in clockwise for right side and counter clockwise for left side? If I receive the new pedals I ordered and they are not marked what should I do? One other thing is when I assembled the bike the right side pedal screwed almost all the way in by hand then tightened it down with the pedal wrench. The left side barely went in by hand then I used the pedal wrench to screw it in the rest of the way. When I got close to the end it got tight, then released, then tightened down. I am worried I could of possibly already caused damage to the left side and if I remove it and try to install the new left side pedal the threads will be ruined. I guess only time will tell when I get the new pedals though. I still need to know about what is in bold though. I know I do not NEED a bike stand but I think it will make things much easier. I do not have access to a garage or shed and cannot hang the bike from anything. What is tuning your gears entail? Is it just adjusting the Derailleurs? I was messing with the brakes and cannot seem to get them to work properly. I mean they work, but not well and the handle pulls all the way to the handle and barely stops the bike. If I take up slack in the cable it will be touching the rim.
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