Re Charge with Wingman Scissors

[DazMechanical]

Just thought I'd show you all my latest mod! Charge Ti with Rebar plier head, Phillips and medium flat driver and Wingman scissors.

[zoidberg]

Bonzer hack mate. 

[DazMechanical]

Bonzer hack mate. 

 

[Breezy12]

very nice work, mate!

it doesn't look like you needed to grind the drivers at all... did you use zoidberg's method of removing the blade safety pins entirely?

[SteveC]

Nicely done   

[Kampfer]

 

[zimchaz]

very nice work, mate!

it doesn't look like you needed to grind the drivers at all... did you use zoidberg's method of removing the blade safety pins entirely?

How exactly do you achieve that without compromising the locking spring?

[DazMechanical]

very nice work, mate!

it doesn't look like you needed to grind the drivers at all... did you use zoidberg's method of removing the blade safety pins entirely?

    I only needed to grind less than 1mm off the serrated blade safety pin and snapped off both plier rests. The scissors took a bit more work, but even that was relatively easy, just open up the pivot a little and grind the locking edge down a bit.

[carlb]

Can I ask why you had to grind off some of the safety pin and remove both plier rests? I did this to my charge TTI and other than the scissors, I didn't have to do anything. Literally just dropped the rebar pliers in.


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[zoidberg]

Can I ask why you had to grind off some of the safety pin and remove both plier rests? I did this to my charge TTI and other than the scissors, I didn't have to do anything. Literally just dropped the rebar pliers in.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Due to different tolerances, sometimes when swapping plier heads the safety pin is pushed out more and prevents deployment of the blade.

The plier rests are removed to fit in the longer Phillips driver or other tools. Sometimes more work needs doing in order to have the handles close properly.

[carlb]

Can I ask why you had to grind off some of the safety pin and remove both plier rests? I did this to my charge TTI and other than the scissors, I didn't have to do anything. Literally just dropped the rebar pliers in.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Due to different tolerances, sometimes when swapping plier heads the safety pin is pushed out more and prevents deployment of the blade.

The plier rests are removed to fit in the longer Phillips driver or other tools. Sometimes more work needs doing in order to have the handles close properly.

Ok, good to know. Thanks Zoid.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[DazMechanical]

Can I ask why you had to grind off some of the safety pin and remove both plier rests? I did this to my charge TTI and other than the scissors, I didn't have to do anything. Literally just dropped the rebar pliers in.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Due to different tolerances, sometimes when swapping plier heads the safety pin is pushed out more and prevents deployment of the blade.

The plier rests are removed to fit in the longer Phillips driver or other tools. Sometimes more work needs doing in order to have the handles close properly.

Ok, good to know. Thanks Zoid.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Exactly what Dr.Z said

[txdm]

This is pretty awesome.

I have a charge ALX and an old, busted up wingman.

Would it be possible to put the Wingman scissors on a charge in place of the plain blade instead? So you have serrated blade, file, saw, and scissors on the outside?

For my use case, a Charge ALX with an awl in place of the dinky-driver (which I'm working on), and big wingman scissors instead of the main blade would be ideal...I'm partial to my Mini-Griptilian as a cutting blade... I practically keep it on me at all times.

[zoidberg]

This is pretty awesome.

I have a charge ALX and an old, busted up wingman.

Would it be possible to put the Wingman scissors on a charge in place of the plain blade instead? So you have serrated blade, file, saw, and scissors on the outside?

For my use case, a Charge ALX with an awl in place of the dinky-driver (which I'm working on), and big wingman scissors instead of the main blade would be ideal...I'm partial to my Mini-Griptilian as a cutting blade... I practically keep it on me at all times.

Without the parts in front of me it's a little difficult to say, I'm thinking you would have to take a fair bit off the scissor spring piece to clear the liner lock and I'm not sure if there is enough metal there to do that. You could replace the blade with the file, if you're careful when you regrind the lock angle you can keep any play to a minimum. File to blade and scissors to file.

[zoidberg]

very nice work, mate!

it doesn't look like you needed to grind the drivers at all... did you use zoidberg's method of removing the blade safety pins entirely?

How exactly do you achieve that without compromising the locking spring?

Sorry for the late reply. I pull the safety pin piece off and re peen the rivet to secure the locking spring.

[Toolslinger]

Yes. It is possible. http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,54732.msg952392.html#msg952392

You will need to be careful when grinding the lock face on the file (or saw) that you move to the blade slot. I recommend doing it by hand.

Go slow and careful when modding the scissors to fit too.

The general rule is file a bit check the fit.

Good luck and don't forget to post pics when you're done.

[NKlamerus]

That is AWESOME!!

[Toolslinger]

very nice work, mate!

it doesn't look like you needed to grind the drivers at all... did you use zoidberg's method of removing the blade safety pins entirely?

How exactly do you achieve that without compromising the locking spring?

Sorry for the late reply. I pull the safety pin piece off and re peen the rivet to secure the locking spring.

^^^
I've used this method many times on mods for Charges, Waves and even a Surge. Works a treat. I use a nail setting punch or heavy pin punch to allow me to hit the interior side of the rivet. Just be careful when you remove the blade locks and check your locks for proper tension frequently.