Xelkos' Tread Review - Enprocess

[Outback in Idaho]

Have worn the Leatherman Tread for a few days now.

Figured I would add comments as I go and use the wearable tool.

• It can pull on your arm hairs but hasn't once pinched me. Seems rather sturdy.
• Added a 1/4 inch link which gives the Tread more room to wander around the arm/wrist.

  Had noticed that the clasp came undone twice from just wearing it, so took some photos and am wondering about the quality control since the links appear to be crooked.

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Just discovered, while writing this up, that there is a weak link that does indeed affect the alignment of the clasp. It's that hollow pin! And this is on the Can Opener part of the tool.

  Hmm...  would a solid stainless steel pin be suggested as a replacement? Would that affect the warranty by replacing the pin??

Tool Clasp & Can Opener

Though I wonder why Leatherman did not add a diamond coated or half & half file to the left side. Would of given the ability to strike a match on the surface, or used as a file (even if for fingernails).

The Clasper - Had noticed a ring of material build-up here. Took a diamond coated Charge file to gently file this off, then used the file tip and rotated around some.

 Notice there is no shoulder in the holes to hold the spring & ball in tighter...

Noticed that the clasp appears crooked... 


The ball spring does not appear to be engaging the hole securely... 


Showing an alignment issue


Another view of the closed clasp


The Weak(est) Link
Once I got curious and twisted the can opener pieces over to one side I had discovered the weak link ... that hollow pin.


Once bending the Can Opener and wrist protector parts with moderate force was able to regain the alignment back again.


  Not sure what size of pin to replace this hollow pin with, though I suspect there will be some inquiries about this alignment issue to come, more so for those that use the can opener portion of the Tread.



  Now for suggestions:

1) Would like to see on a slimmer 1/4 inch link a security bit for the Charge/Wave (and other popular tools) to tighten the screws when out in the field. Or to tighten up a friend's loose tool.
2) To maximize function(s) would be for the Leatherman developers to add a file like surface on the wrist-backing clasp to facilitate a match striker / nail file. This could be a diamond coated on one side, semi-rough on the other half.
3) As for the closer part of the clasp, why not put a spring ball on both sides for longevity's sake? Would make the latching more secure.

[kirk13]

Oh dear. It looks like the Tread is the Sinclair C5 of multitools

[dks]

Nice review. As expected for a low cost tool 

I will wait for the beta testing to finish and get V2
 

[Etherealicer]

Thanks for the review... seems the price quality ratio is not as good as with other LM tools...

[AimlessWanderer]

 

Not enough hands 



Still not enough hands



We need a Doctor Octavius Facepalmery Thingummy Dooferage 

[jerseydevil]

Far too tacky and gimmicky for my tastes. I'll pass. 

[derekmac]

Far too tacky and gimmicky for my tastes. I'll pass. 

My thoughts exactly.

Thank you for doing this review though Xelkos.

[Outback in Idaho]

Far too tacky and gimmicky for my tastes. I'll pass. 

My thoughts exactly.

Thank you for doing this review though Xelkos.

  Only just started a review. The above was more of passing it around to others, and they had handled it. Slept with it on a couple of nights, wore it just about everywhere else. Not seen any signs of rust yet.


  Have used the flat driver for a camera mount.

  There are no standard Torx or Security Torx bits. Though a Leatherman flat bit can slide through some links there is nothing capable of holding friction on them. Inside side springs could be an option. As it is there is no way of holding the spring firmly inside. Magnetizing would not be a secure option.
  The bits would have to be shortened as they do tend to stick out on the ends of the links.

  If one could only store a flat bit inside the links... this one is too loose.


  A T-10 Security Bit would be favorable for Leatherman tool maintenance. Standard T-10 in use here.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Maybe Leatherman will create a silicone sleeve to hold certain bits inside? Then too they might have to make shortened bits to fit inside the 5 different links.

  Might have to get a double-ended standard T-10 / Security T-10 bit made - if bit holding ever becomes an option.

[Outback in Idaho]

  File Suggestion for the wrist protector clasp part. Half diamond coated file, half regular file.

  Purpose would be to use the diamond & standard files potions to file fingernails, fishing hooks, needles in the field, help light matches in case of soggy or missing sandpaper striker, small parts file, spork tong nicker file, plastic or light materials file, etc.

[Outback in Idaho]

   Leatherman Tread claims the Tread is adjustable by 1/4" to 1/2" - which is true in theory... if one was just replacing a different width link for another. Adding or removing tool links also mean adding or removing the connector links which drastically changes the sizing by an additional 1/2" per connector pairs (not including the link).



  Personal Comments
  The OEM wrist multitool will fit a 9 inch wrist easily. For a 9.5" wrist I found much comfort by swapping the only 1/4" Leatherman branded link with a 1/2" link - then I altered the flathead to a slimmer width using a Dremel power tool.


  The clasp is something that one will have to adjust to using. It is the thicker part of the currently available version of the Tread wrist multitool. Am guessing this is to off-set the weight of the watch option when it becomes available.
  And since most wrists (least that I've seen) are flat the curved portion of the clasp tends to dig into the wrist area. Or perhaps the curved clasp is supposed to ride on the curved portions of the wrist so as to keep the watch option centered on one's wrist?


  Opening an closing the Tread I thought was a no brainer. Although after watching some video reviews it appears that some are missing the obvious. The clasp is the only smooth link which can be felt quite easily by the fingers. Sure, there is a small indentation where a fingernail or a flathead could be used to lift it up ... yet it is far easier than this. Pull outward with the smooth link's barrel, where the logo is.

Note: The purple stain was from mountain huckleberries which was easily wiped away after I seen it on the photo.


  Links

• Currently there is only one 1/4" (center on center) tool link.
• The majority are 1/2" tool links, including the connector links.
• Each link can be removed with a screwdriver, penny, a washer, etc.


  Suggestions
• As I had stated before, the ability to hold a Leatherman flat bit. Also want to add the micro-srewdriver for the glasses found on the Charge, Wave, and older Surge multitools. Of course a link will require an adapter or an ultra-small hex hole to hold it.
•  Also guessing that a small nylon adapter could be slid into a hollow link to hold the small eyeglass screwdriver bit(s) and facilitate the ability to use the bit.
• Also want Torx bits on the links perhaps on a 1/4" link or two. preferrably a T-10 Security bit on one side.
• A Torx 8 bit would also be useful for the pocket clips.
• As for the Socket Adapter it is an optional socket wrench, should you want to use as such, in case the other side of the nut/bolt is slipping.
•  Would like to have ball joints on each side of the adapter for longevity and better securement of the clasp. Have had the clasp come undone twice, which was due to the hollow pin bending, throwing the alignment off.


  Copied two photos from The Urban Prepper's Tread review. This shows the watch option on the Tread.

  Haven't figured out if the watch screws onto this watch adapter or what. There is a definite backing which would relieve the stress on the actual watch pins and give the wrist multitool some strength when using the other tools. So this will add extra width and weight there.

  Since the watch is not self-winding, solar, or some perpetual recharging there must be a battery. So the watch has to detach somewhere. Wondering how long before we start seeing watch adapters for the more popular watches appear on eBay. I've got a Casio Solar Watch, though a fancy triple sensor solar watch might look spiffy on a Leather Tread multitool watchband. 

  Am thinking that CNC machiners could make their own watch adapters here and sell them after market. The links appear to be 13/16" (2.2 cm) wide.


  Watch Backing & Attachment


  Side View for Watch Adapter

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  Unsure if Leatherman's developers are designing a Spiderman® Web Launcher for the Tread or maybe it is just the Super Hero in me wanting to shout Go Web!

[Outback in Idaho]

  Have not found an online PDF manual download yet, and these photos got the text a bit munged when shrinking them down.

  Front


  Back

[TRUE LIBERTY]

After seeing this I am no where near as excited as I once was to get one. Maybe the next generation.

[Outback in Idaho]

After seeing this I am no where near as excited as I once was to get one. Maybe the next generation.

  Was not trying to run down the Tread. Wear it about every day. Price though, ouch!

  Tread has a lot of possibilities even though the bits are rather short. It is an interesting bracelet too, though a watch adapter would really spiff-up the looks. A triple sensor watch would be far more functional than what Leatherman is offering.

  Tread is a first run wearable multitool, similar to the Personal Survival Tool was on its first induction as a pocket multitool. Give it time, am sure the developers have more links and adaptations in the works. Right now anything is possible to creative machinists.

  The biggest hex drive is a 10mm which would be a slightly sloppy 3/8" - which means the PocketToolX Piranha is still has the biggest bite in the Leatherman line-up. Anyone have any details as to whether the Piranha is TSA friendly?

[Kampfer]

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[Obi1shinobee]

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[Outback in Idaho]

  Is that bit-holder hole tapered inward so as to hold the non-used end from slipping through (when applying pressure)? Or does it still require some backing material to use?

[Kampfer]

Not sure, JAfromMN has one, let me ask.

[Outback in Idaho]

Not sure, JAfromMN has one, let me ask.

Did a search from that picture, doesn't look like it is tapered. Had tried one of them slots and they are okay up until one needs to use some pressure to loosen/tighten something then it's worthless. Need to use some sort of metal backing and having to old the backing in there somehow.  Would be more advantageous to have a large bit driver on a T or L shank instead of just a shaped hole.
  Then you'd have to make a vambrace from the bit cards to be weartable. 


  Would the Leatherman Tread qualify for Steampunk fashion?

[Outback in Idaho]

  This 17-4 stainless steel is not nearly as heavy as it looks, and it stands up well to Idaho & Oregon's Mountain and dessert elements. One's body chemistry & environmental elements can affect various metals.

  Have been out in high heat, morning to evening work out on various farms, hands on many different fruits and vegetables, even going to the mountains and picking raspberries, blackberries, huckleberries, and other assorted Nature fruits. So far everything that I've been in contact with the Tread has stood up without any rust or staining.
  Oh, and I sweat a lot. Can tell right away when there is cheap plating on a product within a week, and it has been over two weeks now and been wearing the Tread from the time I get up till I hit the sack - save the times I need to take a shower.

  Am attaching a photo of two pieces that I wear a lot. Though the Wolf's Den Armoury choker is made of stainless steel too, the clasp is not.
  Have been wearing this choker for over two years, and within a month that clasp has changed colors from my sweating. Am thinking one of these days am going to replace it with a titanium lobster clasp...

[Outback in Idaho]

  There it was, right under my hat, a 30th hidden tool implement! 

  Tread Sundial - And it was quite accurate within a few freckles, 10 AM. 

[Jand3rson86]

I've used the strap cutter/package opener on the solid link many times, it is WONDERFUL for cutting open clamshell plastic packaging, even the really heavy stuff.  Also great for opening taped boxes. 

[Outback in Idaho]

I've used the strap cutter/package opener on the solid link many times, it is WONDERFUL for cutting open clamshell plastic packaging, even the really heavy stuff.  Also great for opening taped boxes.

  Am reluctant to use it in fear of dulling it down. Took me quite a long time to figure out a suitable ceramic stone sharpener for the Charge's cut-hook. Seem to have misplaced the Lansky Pocket Crock Stick that I adapted for sharpening that cut hook. Am thinking it will too wide for the Tread and may have to resort to the Smith's Pocket Sharpener for sharpening.

[Outback in Idaho]

I've used the strap cutter/package opener on the solid link many times, it is WONDERFUL for cutting open clamshell plastic packaging, even the really heavy stuff.  Also great for opening taped boxes.

  Had to use the SIM Pick to make a bite into the plastic of the clamshell, then got the strap cutter to skillfully extricate the SD Card. Wanted it to be a clean cut in case it needed returned. 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Got the tripod out for a possible video shoot, and the hex bolts were way too loose. No need to get the hex wrenches out from the car or pull out the Bit Kit. Instead used the Tread to tighten them rascals back in.



  After getting home had cooked up some stir fried zucchini & cabbage, then laid that over onto some mixed rice. Had steamed potatoes and corn on the cob too. But that corn on the cob was HOT! Don't think knifing the ear of corn would of worked, and the pliers were too dirty. What else was there?




    Swapping Links
  Use a small coin such as a penny or dime to remove or tighten the screws. Some reviewers go to all the trouble of 'needing' a screwdriver bit or something silly then bash the Tread cause of it.



   If one was that obsessed they could make a screw bit driver to fit inside a link, after magnetizing the smurf out of it. That would solve their problem up until trying to extricate the driver bit.. so they would need to put nail nicks on the ends and rough the window area to facilitate sliding it out.
  Watch, someone will do it. 

[Jand3rson86]

I think I've used the allen head tools on mine more than any of the rest of them so far.  Very handy to have on board at all times.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Come up with this idea this morning for a Leatherman Tread Mini-Pliers Link.

  To use one would take off their Tread, and using the pliers in a griping motion between one's thumb and fingers. Probably would also want a spring in there to help hold the pliers in the open position.


  This was/is a rough idea that popped into my head. Wished I had the resources to try this idea out myself.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Come up with this idea this morning for a Leatherman Tread Mini-Pliers Link.

  To use one would take off their Tread, and using the pliers in a griping motion between one's thumb and fingers. Probably would also want a spring in there to help hold the pliers in the open position.
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  This was/is a rough idea that popped into my head. Wished I had the resources to try this idea out myself.

  Obviously the jaws need to be off-set. Used to know how to draw perspective drawings of each side during high school. Seems I've lost the art in drawing.