Use a file to give the axe head a good edge. I've also seen sandpaper used as well.
Bought this old axe head from the flea market for 70 cent. Bought a new handle for 13 euros and it is good to go for a couple of decades. I also resharpened it to a medium to dull sharpness, i will try to make this better but could nog get good results on my lansky turnbox .I made the stop that keeps the axe head in place from an old 5 mm thick metal strip that i hammerd in to the wood. I love recycling
Thanks for all the info guys This was the largest handle the shop had in stock. It is a meter long and has a square head. Is it possible that i slam pieces of wood in the two open spaces to ensure that the head won't fly away?It does look hand forged, that's also the reason why i picked it up. I will try to sharpen it later this week and will keep you guys updated on it.I also bought this axe with it, it costed me 2,50 euros. The head is in great shape but the handle has seen better times. It is dried out and the end is splitting in multiple pieces, i will try to maybe glue this together so these wont break of when used. It also might be handy to oil or threat the wood so that the doesn't get so dried out. This one also needs to be resharpend.It looks to be very old too but it is hard to estimate how old it is.I love flea markets
Quote from: anditsgone on February 01, 2016, 08:18:29 PMThanks for all the info guys This was the largest handle the shop had in stock. It is a meter long and has a square head. Is it possible that i slam pieces of wood in the two open spaces to ensure that the head won't fly away?It does look hand forged, that's also the reason why i picked it up. I will try to sharpen it later this week and will keep you guys updated on it.I also bought this axe with it, it costed me 2,50 euros. The head is in great shape but the handle has seen better times. It is dried out and the end is splitting in multiple pieces, i will try to maybe glue this together so these wont break of when used. It also might be handy to oil or threat the wood so that the doesn't get so dried out. This one also needs to be resharpend.It looks to be very old too but it is hard to estimate how old it is.I love flea markets I hope you didn’t think I was being rude It can’t do any harm to wedge in some extra wood It’s hard to find good axe handles here in the UK especially as I like to inspect them before buying themI oil my handles with 50/50 linseed oil/white spirit mix, you can also use it protect the head (but it takes a while to dry)Without any stamps its very hard to date Looking forward to more pics
Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice.
Quote from: anditsgone on February 06, 2016, 02:25:51 PM Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. thats generally a good thing
Quote from: eamo on February 06, 2016, 02:50:37 PMQuote from: anditsgone on February 06, 2016, 02:25:51 PM Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. thats generally a good thing +1
Quote from: Sparky415 on February 06, 2016, 03:37:25 PMQuote from: eamo on February 06, 2016, 02:50:37 PMQuote from: anditsgone on February 06, 2016, 02:25:51 PM Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. thats generally a good thing +1 Head and handle staying in close proximity is definitely a bonus.
Quote from: anditsgone on February 06, 2016, 02:25:51 PM Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. thats generally a good thing - did you put wedges between the head and the handle ?
The burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone ) Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be botheredWill post some pictures laterOr if you want to risk it,Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this )
Quote from: Sparky415 on February 21, 2016, 10:23:35 AMThe burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone ) Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be botheredWill post some pictures laterOr if you want to risk it,Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this ) I don't own a decent sharpening stone, only a cheap sharpening stone that makes your knives dull:facepalm:I might try to clamp the head down and use the coarse lansky rod to sharpen it.
Quote from: anditsgone on February 21, 2016, 10:53:30 AMQuote from: Sparky415 on February 21, 2016, 10:23:35 AMThe burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone ) Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be botheredWill post some pictures laterOr if you want to risk it,Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this ) I don't own a decent sharpening stone, only a cheap sharpening stone that makes your knives dull:facepalm:I might try to clamp the head down and use the coarse lansky rod to sharpen it. I recently got a lansky puck I find it really good. Dunno about razor sharp but that's more due to my skill or lack of skill more like. Paid 6 or 7 Euro plus shipping for it. And yeah I know all I'm doing is encouraging you to spend money . . . . Sorry
I'm all for trying what you already have If you can't get the rods to work maybe give your oil stone another try, clamp the head and move the stoneOr try gluing some sandpaper to a flat stick, Works surprisingly well Also the trick of colouring the blade with a sharpy helps for me My strop and sanding batten