Modding a Leatherman Juice - brass pins?

[shibafu]

I'm thinking of doing a slimline juice mod.  I know people have used 1/8" knife pivots for juice mods, but I'm having trouble sourcing them here without having to pay either high shipping costs or a big minimum order charge.  But I could source 1/8" brass pin stock easily.  My worry is whether brass will be tough enough to cope with the loads exerted by the pliers.  What do people think, can I get away with brass pins in a Juice?

My alternative is to try using A1 stainless, but I don't know how well my drilling and tapping methods will translate to the harder material.

[hiraethus]

I use brass for the pivots I make for Pioneers, and am currently using a single brass pivot in one side of the pliers on my modded Spirit.  I'm hoping they'll be OK.

Actually, I reckon they'll be fine - the pliers pins are loaded in double shear, and as long as the screws almost meet in the middle of the pivot you'll get plenty of support from inside too.

I need to try some nickel silver - it's harder than the brass I use and should be slightly stronger too.

[ljnoble]

I use brass as well for my sak mods and you could probably make do with it but the a1 would be better. As long as your tap and dies arnt super cheep ones I'd say they will be more than fine as long as you go slow and steady and use cutting oil. I still use my grandfathers ones on steel conduit at work 32mm thick just have to go slow and steady

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[shibafu]

Brass is good for knife pivots, for sure.  It's what Victorinox use after all.  But it seems like the load on plier handle pivots could be a lot higher when you really squeeze on the pliers.  Nickel silver is an interesting option.  You can get bronze welding rods in 1/8" as well, I wonder if they'd be any good.

[yud]

I would try it and see how it goes.  For a slim juice you could even try putting some force on the pins before preening to see if there are any problems.

[shibafu]

I would try it and see how it goes.  For a slim juice you could even try putting some force on the pins before preening to see if there are any problems.

That's a good point yud.  I could test it and then remove the pins for inspection.

[yud]

One other thing now that I am thinking of it.  The springs are exerting a fair amount of force even in their most neutral position.  On the bad side it should result in more deformation.  But the good thing about it is that it will take a lot of deformation before it is really noticeable.

[tattoosteve99]

The brass would work for the tools but probably not for the pliers. The best bet is to get 1/8 pivots as they fit perfectly.

[sLaughterMed]

Didnt someone (Syph maybe?) Have issues with the pivots causing galling though?

[yud]

Didnt someone (Syph maybe?) Have issues with the pivots causing galling though?

It was J scew, and his problem was wight stainless.  He also said brass should work.

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,25552.0.html

[Biker_Bob]

Does it have to be stainless?
I've used silver steel for similar jobs and it's good stuff.
Brass I think will be OK for a while but you'll end up replacing it before too long.
When I have used stainless I usually chop the head and threads off a suitable sized shouldered bolt and use that as the starting point. Actually I hate working with stainless, it's horrible stuff, but my best success has been using plenty of oil and very low tool speeds (whatever the tool may be - lathe, mill, drill etc..)

[tattoosteve99]

Might I suggest a nickel welding rod. They make them in 1/8 and its soft enough to peen if you want. It work hardens also.