Let's see your sharpening stones/gear!

[kl27x]

You might wanna check out this one, too:

http://straightrazorplace.com/honing/28088-consumer-alert-chromium-oxide-bars-not.html

When I started my web-investigation of "green buffing bars," this was one of the first links I clicked on. But I just now noticed the "veritas" on the box of buffing compound in your picture!!

[Aloha]

Thanks the write up and personal experience on Ark stones.  Very much appreciated.   

[sak60]

You might wanna check out this one, too:

http://straightrazorplace.com/honing/28088-consumer-alert-chromium-oxide-bars-not.html

When I started my web-investigation of "green buffing bars," this was one of the first links I clicked on. But I just now noticed the "veritas" on the box of buffing compound in your picture!!

Thanks for the link. Reading the MSDS reminds me I read or heard somewhere that compound with tallow/animal fats aren't great either. But already had mine. Will maybe check out some different ones.

[ThePeacent]

a classic!

[Fortytwo]

I'm starting to have quite a few different sharpening solutions at home in different styles (picture will come tomorrow when the light is better) and most of them are of the smaller kind. Despite this I find that I'm unhappy with my pocket solutions (cheap diamond rods) since I find them much too coarse. I have toyed with the idea of bringing just a single of the ceramic rods from my Lansky turnbox but the lack of grip area coupled with the brittleness of ceramics means I'm hesitant.
The Victorinox dual sharpener seems popular but I would prefer a less plastic solution of at all possible. Right now I'm looking at these two:
Victorinox/Opinel sharpening steel (they seem to be the more or less the same).
EZE-LAP super fine credit card sharpener.

Does anyone have either? Or other suggestions that I have missed?

[kl27x]

^ Sounds like you want something very fine for light touchups. (In reality, this is sometimes all I need for months or even years, myself! Cutting cardboard and tape is just not very strenuous on a knife!)

You can get a small "dog bone" ceramic rod. This is a short section of rod with rubber stoppers on either end. No matter how it lands, it is cushioned from breaking. You can slip it in a pocket or even carry it on a keychain.

What I am most often carrying in my pocket lately is a small piece of wood about the size of a small pocket knife. On one side is glued a smooth side up leather with a bit of chrom ox rubbed in. On the other side, I have epoxied a sliver of ark stone. A little hole drilled in the end is filled with a bit of extra buffing compound. 

I dunno if you have ever seen it, but there is also a strange little method of sharpening with a carbide "card shaver" type of thing. Jut a carbide cutter with a 90 degree edge in a plastic handle. But instead of a V, it's just one cutter. With enough skill, you can put a razor sharp (but not shaving smooth!) edge on a knife by using it.

[jcs0001]

Rather than starting a new thread I figured I'd resurrect this one since it isn't that old.  I have a Gatco (fine, med. course) guided sharpener that I use on blades that need a lot of work.  Once they are fairly sharp, until recently, I use a ceramic rod setup.  I find that it also works to put a final sharpening on blades that need a touch up.  I find that the ceramic sticks work well and are quick.  I can touch up a paring knife or pocket knife in a minute or less most times.



Until recently I've never bothered stropping my blades.  I bought a stick of Veritas green honing compound and made a strop for it.  I had a strop made by a friend years ago and misplaced it.  I just found it - its' the longer one in the photo.



The strop with the honing compound really puts a fine edge on a blade.  I'm quite impressed with it.  It also puts a nice polish on a blade particularly when the blade has scratches removed with fine grades of sandpaper.  I suspect that the compound is quite aggressive and that one could get a finer edge with another compound but this certainly works for my purposes.

I haven't included photos but I also have a 1000/4000 grit reversible water stone and a few oil stones.  I use them for chisels and planes and occasionally for blades.

The previous posts certainly list some great equipment and details about sharpening.  One thing I've seldom used and don't own is a honing steel.  Interesting that a few posters use them.

Thanks,

John.

[jcs0001]

I hadn't read the info on the veritas (leevalley) honing compound before posting the above.  Interesting information and it does make sense in that the compound certainly seems a bit aggressive.  For my purposes it is very good and I'll stick with it.  Might not be as good for a straight razor of course.

John.

[SAK Guy]

Very cool info jcs!!!

[Ron Who]

No sharpening "systems" in my book. A DC4 and an Arkansas stone are what I use at home, and there's a Vic pen for use on the road. I have a steel too but find it a bit awkward given it's only 3'' in length.

[kkokkolis]

My tools. I love sharpening, it's a meditating procedure.

[sak60]

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My tools. I love sharpening, it's a meditating procedure.

I agree. Although I do remember that early on it was sometimes anything but meditative.

[Poncho65]

Nice bit of kit KK I agree that it is a very rewarding and meditative thing when you get good at it but before you get good (as sak said) it is sometimes rather frustrating

[Aloha]

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My tools. I love sharpening, it's a meditating procedure.

Nice.  I too find the process very relaxing.  Since getting my dual whetstone I've gone thru and edged up all my kitchen knives, many of my fixed blades and several other sharps. 

[kkokkolis]

I passed through the sharpening iliteracy and fear phase (lasted 25 years), the sharpening frustration phase (lasted a couple of weeks) and now I am in the adequate sharpening skills phase for some 5-6 years. So, the frustration phase was the shortest in my history. One shouldn't let fear stop him from  proceeding. If you make a blade dull, just sharpen it again. If you scratch it, leave it scratched. It would be a user blade anyway if it needed sharpening. Showpieces don't get much use, so they don't need sharpening.
All my tools are dead cheap, costing from 1 to 18€. I also use a leather belt from my Heavy Metal teens for stropping (and my jeans of course).

[Ron Who]

That's a very basic setup, pretty much like mine!

[kkokkolis]

That pugmy steel rod is from Opinel?
What do you have to say about the DC4 and the Buck oil?

[Ron Who]

That pugmy steel rod is from Opinel?

No, it came with a Zermatt belt sheath.

What do you have to say about the DC4

The DC4 stone has diamond and ceramic sides. I bought it for use on the U2 knife but it works great on SAKs, and fast too. You don't need any oil to use it.

and the Buck oil?

Is for use with the Arkansas stone. I can't really tell you about its quality since I don't have anything to compare it to. It seems to work fine.

[magentus]

How do you find the mini steel in use RoSchro?

[Ron Who]

How do you find the mini steel in use RoSchro?

Not very handy, to be honest. Too small for my arthritic fingers, but it'll do when there's nothing else. For field use I prefer the Vic pen.

[Ron Who]

 

I'm repeating myself.
I just saw I already wrote about this at the end of February (I didn't have a pic then).

[ThePeacent]

most of mine, as there seems to be much interest for sharpening this last week in the forum in different threads   

[RF52]

most of mine, as there seems to be much interest for sharpening this last week in the forum in different threads   

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Great kit

Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk

[Poncho65]

Nice bunch of sharpening equipment Peacent

[Aloha]

Nice bunch of sharpening equipment Peacent

+1 

[VICMAN]

For all the knives that I carry I use an EZE-LAP Model "M" round diamond sharpener and finish with a few light strokes on my Victorinox Pocket Steel.

Normally, once a knife has been sharpened, I just use the Pocket Steel regularly to keep it that way.

For serrated edges I use the small EZE-LAP tapered diamond sharpener.

I use the small end of the taper and rake it back and forth length wise on the serrations....that way it sharpens all the small curved edges without changing the shape.


Click on picture for best picture.

[VICMAN]

For serrated edges I use the small EZE-LAP tapered diamond sharpener.

I use the small end of the taper and rake it back and forth length wise on the serrations....that way it sharpens all the small curved edges without changing the shape.

I forgot to mention that after running the sharpener across the serrations, I use it to knock the burr off of the back side of the blade.

[styx]

has anyone had a chance to compare the performance of Fallkniven DC4 and CC4 stones? By all accounts they should be rather similar but I'd like to hear it from one of you since y'all I do trust

[GrandpaPatch]

I originally posted about this set of sharpening stones in the What did you just get? thread.

I thought it was about time to actually put them to use and see how well they worked and if I had any issues. Recently I had pulled my Browning 3 bladed hunting knife out for a photo and realized that the blade was in bad shape. It is not an EDC knife and I only carry it a few times a year when I really need the option of my messenger bag for concealed carry. Normally it is tucked away in my UTG Messenger Bag (Maxpedition Jumbo Versipack clone). Anyways, this set is great. I started with the 240, like I said the blade was in bad shape, then moved on the 400, 800 and 1000 stones. I have not even touched the 3000, 5000, 8000 or 10000 stones yet. Not that I'm finished with the blade yet, but it has already passed the paper test after using the 1000 stone.

MTO_SStones_02 by Grandpa Patch, on Flickr

MTO_KnifeSharpeners_01 by Grandpa Patch, on Flickr

Each stone is labeled on the backside so that you know which stone it is. You don't have to look and memorize the color code combination, although I'm sure it will become natural after using them a few times. I use the 'move the stone not the knife' method of sharpening. So I pulled at the 3/4" piece of wood, held the knife with one hand and went to work using the stones with the other. They worked great. The tail end (the end against the cutting block) didn't drag or cause any uncomfortable motions. The stones worked great, and as mentioned before, went right back into their bubble wrap sleeves when I was done with them. Yes, if you are looking for a new set of stones at a good price, I would recommend this set.

[SteveC]

Nice assortment of stones there GP