Tips for Peening 93mm Alox SAKs

[Toolslinger]

I've managed to source some brass pin stock locally and am gearing up to try my hand at a mod or two.

Looking for tips for getting good snap on 93mm Alox when peening and specifically preventing overpeenning.

I remember seeing some members use slips of aluminum cans as shims but can't seem to find the posts anymore.

Any tips?

[Syph007]

Dont use aluminum... it tears to easy so when you go to pull it out some gets left in there and effectively ruins everything.  The best is the old style large razor blades. Very thin and strong just be careful not to cut yourself. 

[Poncho65]

Dont use aluminum... it tears to easy so when you go to pull it out some gets left in there and effectively ruins everything.  The best is the old style large razor blades. Very thin and strong just be careful not to cut yourself. 

From the man himself  

[Sparky415]

I cut up a tuna can for shims when I put a knife together,
Just as sharp as razor blades 
 (but razor blades do sound better  )

[PTRSAK]

I use brass shim, 10 thou seems about right. 0.25mm for the metric types.

[Toolslinger]

Thanks guys!

I've got some tuna cans and old razors, so I'll measure them with my calipers and see what I get for thickness.

Do I just peen until the rivet is tight and then remove the shim, or is there a point to stop before that.

With the 91mm mods I've done, I peen slowly and check frequently as I go, this has meant a couple ended up slightly tight and had to be corrected but never any ending up loose. I would assume it's the same for 93mm with shims.

[Joe58]

As I'm not a modder, but do enjoy following and understanding the process from start to finish, I have a dumb question.

I'm assuming the shim you're talking about is put between the tool and the handle, on the inside, to prevent the pivot from getting too tight during peeping, which would result in poor opening and closing action. Is that about right?

[tattoosteve99]

I don't use shims  
What I do is make one side of the rivet head first, with enough extra to go through all the tools. Then cut the end off after its together. Then sand down to 1mm above the scale. Tap tap tap until the tools are tight enough not to wiggle yet loose enough so there's snap. Practice first until you get the hang of it.

[Dean51]

This will keep you from getting it to tight until you are ready for those final taps.

[cali-SAK-attack]

I have never done a SAK....... YET!   
But on other old pocket knives I use a old car / automotive feeler gauge.
I cut a slip in a couple and use one on each side. 

( I will try to go snap a pic>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>)

[cali-SAK-attack]

Here is my "slacker" or is it "slackener" ??  "pivot pin gapper" ?? anywho, its what I call it   

Again, I have only used this on old slip joint pocket knives when i repaired bone/wood/etc scales..............where the pins are exposed and peened as part of the LOOK/STYLE.
I took an ABS (american blade smith) classes years back , and learned of several tools there.......
I was taught to use a .003 on  one side...and .004 on the other.
Peen pin with weight of hammer head only! - ie: just lift it and let it fall and let the tool do the work (AKA Don't whack the dog crap out of it)
When peening pin the bottom OR OTHER END of the pin MUST be touching the Anvil.- constant contact with pin ONLY to ANVIL on bottom and hammer head is the only thing that should touch top side when you are peening.
When peening pins, make 2-3 strikes and flip....2-3 strikes on that side , FLIP , go slow and keep flipping & tapping , till it tightens on your "slacker".
When ya get to where the slackers are tight..... remove one = the .004 ............and now GO 1 strike at a time on each side till you can just get the .003 out....All the wobble/wiggle /blade/side to side play should be gone and it should walk n' talk like a champ....errrr SwissChamp anywho 
(I use a steel head in beginning and switch to brass hammer head at very end)

side note..... I need ta MOD a SAK soon! 
them lil brass bushings have me nervous    show some pics an tips when yer done 

[Sparky415]

As I'm not a modder, but do enjoy following and understanding the process from start to finish, I have a dumb question.

I'm assuming the shim you're talking about is put between the tool and the handle, on the inside, to prevent the pivot from getting too tight during peeping, which would result in poor opening and closing action. Is that about right?

Spot on 

Looking back I cut up an old battery for shims 

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,47502.msg1232736.html#msg1232736