Victorinox Factory Shapening Technique?? Anybody know how to approximate?

JamesJ · **on:** September 29, 2016, 11:07:03 PM

I've read lots of threads and articles and watched youtube vids on sharpening. I'm familiar with many different methods using, stones, rods, notch type sharpeners, fine sandpaper like Chris Lubkemann uses, strops and so forth.

I get the various concepts in theory, getting a very fine edge vs grinding microscopic 'teeth' and then stropping them all downward, etc.

Still, whatever I try, I prefer the sharpness and cutting "feel" of a brand new Victorinox blade. I've had a few brand new from the factory Vics and the edge is usually better than anything I've been able to achieve. Looks nicer too which counts to me on knives I'm photographing to sell.

So I'm wondering if anybody knows what techniques they use in the factory. It may be some robot that poops them out really fast in quantity, not sure. If it's done on a special machine, what would be the best way to approximate the look and "microscopic specifics" of the Vic factory edge?

There are probably sharper edges, as I don't feel I could shave with a new Victorinox blade, it's just the type of sharp that I like.

microbe · **Reply #1 on:** September 29, 2016, 11:32:59 PM

With any guided sharpening system, you can find the exact angle by using a marker on the edge and doing a few test strokes. If I recall it it's 20 degrees. If you would look at he edge with a magnifier, you can even try to find a grit that matches the factory grit. You can sharpen a SAK without anyone ever noticing it was not done in the factory.

NutSAK · **Reply #2 on:** September 29, 2016, 11:51:21 PM

+1

I can duplicate the factory grind with a Lansky guided sharpening system. The standard "fine" 600-grit alumina stone gives about the same "tooth" as factory also. I usually polish mine to a finer edge than that though with a ceramic rod or Lansky "super fine" sapphire stone.

JamesJ · **Reply #3 on:** September 30, 2016, 10:09:03 AM

Wow! Exactly the type of answer I was hoping for. I appreciate it!

I'll check out the Lansky and other guided systems.

JasonJ · **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2016, 05:04:52 PM

So the factory edge is 20 degrees per side then, 40 degrees inclusive?

Aloha · **Reply #5 on:** September 30, 2016, 05:29:16 PM

Quote from: JasonJ on September 30, 2016, 05:04:52 PM

So the factory edge is 20 degrees per side then, 40 degrees inclusive?

Yes.

I've re-beveled SAK edges with my lanky as well. The hardest part was clamping the blade so the stone didn't hit the clamp. Keep in mind everytime you "sharpen" you are removing steel. I have not needed to sharpen my SAKs other than to remove chips from SAKs I've gotten from the flea market. I typically touch up the edge using my Spyderco sharp maker or Lansky turn box ceramic rods. Yes steel is being removed but not a lot. I also like to strop my edges which generally whips them right back into shape.

I do understand you are looking for a factory edge however just thought I'd chime in with those ideas

JamesJ · **Reply #6 on:** September 30, 2016, 05:45:07 PM

Yeah the most common scenario for me is I buy banged up knives with chips in the blade, use a stone to get them out, and then although the blade will look better, I can't seem to get that same factory edge on it.

I rarely buy new knives because $$$

Aloha · **Reply #7 on:** September 30, 2016, 05:50:45 PM

Quote from: JamesJ on September 30, 2016, 05:45:07 PM

Yeah the most common scenario for me is I buy banged up knives with chips in the blade, use a stone to get them out, and then although the blade will look better, I can't seem to get that same factory edge on it.

I rarely buy new knives because $$$

I'm with you on that.

Snapped tips is the most common issue I run across. The mag glass on a SAK is pretty good for looking at the blade edge. Good luck with getting your SAKs up to snuff.

metasyntax · **Reply #8 on:** September 30, 2016, 07:04:29 PM

I think I remember hearing one time that their factory sharpening technique is one of their special secrets. You can see it in the videos, where the blades are all sitting flat on a carousel, going under a machine with oil pouring over them. If memory serves, every single blade is sharpened and the angle checked with a laser, 100% automatically by machine. That's why you never get a bad edge on a SAK. Yet they're produced a zillion at a time, and designed to be opened and put to use right away, so the benefit of their approach is obvious.

I just use my Sharpmaker on the 40° "edge" position. I never use the 30° "back-bevel" position for a SAK; I do use it for the edge on a couple kitchen knives. The fine stone produces a good edge. Sometimes I proceed to the ultra-fine stone afterwards, just for fun: it'll turn a SAK blade into a laser beam! But it's hardly necessary.

Never used the diamond or cubic boron nitride stones before, I use DMT black & blue diamond plates if the edge is that bad. However, I don't really like diamond plates very much, I like how the Spyderco certamic feels as you sharpen, so for normal sharpening on larger knives, I use their benchstones.

Just my 2¢. I'm not an expert at sharpening, or really even that good at it freehand. But the Sharpmaker helps me do a great job, so I really like it. SAK steel is nice because it takes a keen edge, and doesn't take long at all to touch up. Super steels are great for people who cut boxes all day, or are really into that sort of thing for the hobby. I'm not either of those people, so Victorinox steel is just fine in my book.