How do you take your tool pictures?

[665ae]

I'm curious.  I see some people here that take really good close up tool pics.  What kind of set up do you use?  Do you use a specific surface?  What about lighting?  I'm trying to figure out a set up so I can take some decent pictures for a change  :grin:

[Grant Lamontagne]

Here's what I do sometimes when I need a good, detailed pic.  Make certain your camera has a macro function as that helps greatly.

http://www.sosakonline.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=100&Itemid=35

Def

[J-sews]

Oh boy, you guys would laugh hard if you saw the goofy set-up that I use. My problem is flourescent room lighting, and too much of it. I'm down in our basement, which has a drop ceiling and lots of flourescent light fixtures. It makes it impossible to take a decent picture of highly polished stainless steel multitools. Too much light reflects back at the camera lens.

So rather than do the smart/easy thing of building a light box, I've instead arranged two high-back chairs alongside the little table where I take pictures. Across the top of the chairs (above the camera) I hang a white bed sheet, which diffuses the light coming through. It looks stupid, but it works. My wife isn't very proud of the way I'm using one of her white bed sheets, but I told her that it is only temporary.

Heh-heh, I told her that eight months ago. 

[Tom Munch]

In addition to having a macro lens, choose a very high f stop - like 16 or 32 or higher if you can.  You may need a tripod to keep the camera steady, but you'll get more of the tool in focus with the better depth of field from the higher f stop (meaning smaller aperture).

[665ae]

In addition to having a macro lens, choose a very high f stop - like 16 or 32 or higher if you can.  You may need a tripod to keep the camera steady, but you'll get more of the tool in focus with the better depth of field from the higher f stop (meaning smaller aperture).

Ok, I have no idea what a Macro lens is or what "f stop" is.

[Tom Munch]

Many lenses & cameras have a macro setting.  This is used for extremely close photography.  Check the menu on your camera or the lens to see if it has a macro setting that you can adjust for close photos.  Usually it's at the extreme wide angle setting that it will allow the lens to protrude from the camera farther & allow closer shots.

F stop is the size of the shutter opening or aperture when the picture is taken.  Most cameras have an auto setting, a shutter priority setting, an aperture priority setting, & a full manual setting.  I choose the aperture priority setting & set the number that usually goes from 1.8-4 up to 32-64.  Set the number (f stop) at the highest number to get the most things in focus from near to far - this is what is called depth of field.

Tom

[Grant Lamontagne]

The macro function on your camera (if it has one) is usually a small flower:



By looking in the specs for your camera (either online or in the original manual if you have it) looks for "Focal Range" which should say something like "15cm to infinity."  The smaller the initial measurement, the better your macro is.  That's the distance from the lense that the object has to be (minimum) to be in focus.  Some can be as close as a few inches.

Let me know what model camera you have if you are still having trouble, and I'll look it up and see if I can help you with it.

Def

[Tom Munch]

Thanks for jumping in, Def.  I tend to be pretty technical about camera stuff (used to do dark room & field work for a newspaper), & I'm not good at explaining the basics - especially with newer automatic cameras.

Tom

[Grant Lamontagne]

No problem- I am exactly the opposite.  I know nothing about cameras, but I have managed to screw around long enough with them to find out what works and what doesn't.  I couldn't tell you the benefits of one f-stop over another in any given situation, but I manage to take some decent pics sometimes.

Def

[NutSAK]

The aperture is one problem with using the macro function on many "point and shoot" automatic cameras.  The macro or super macro function many times will automatically set the camera to a large aperature, low f-stop and greatly reduce the depth of field.  This is meant to empasize "depth" in the picture, as only the focal point will be in focus and the background will be blurred.  Another reason that manufacturers choose to do this is that low f-stop (large aperture) photos don't require long shutter exposures, thus improving the chance that the picture will be in focus when not using a steady hand or a tripod.

I also would recommend using aperture priority and a small aperture (high f-stop number) for all close-up shots with a camera that has those options.  Unfortunately, many of us who have inexpensive or automatic cameras will not have the aperture or shutter priority options and are stuck with the aperture setting that camera is set to in the macro mode.

[Grant Lamontagne]

And don't forget to take a bilinear microcalculation of the treble matrix as it pertains to the colonoscopy of the phase matrix.  You certainly wouldn't want to aggrivate the conditional stability of the lunar atomizer by fluctuating during optimization.

That would be bad.

Def

[parnass]

I'm curious.  I see some people here that take really good close up tool pics.  What kind of set up do you use?  ...

I don't own a camera so I use an old Epson 636U flatbed scanner.

[665ae]

And don't forget to take a bilinear microcalculation of the treble matrix as it pertains to the colonoscopy of the phase matrix.  You certainly wouldn't want to aggrivate the conditional stability of the lunar atomizer by fluctuating during optimization.

That would be bad.

Def

Don't they make an antibiotic for that?   

[Grant Lamontagne]

More like an internal compositive analgesic suppository.

Def

[Tom Munch]

Sorry, guys - no way to get away from the jargon in photography for me.  I've been into it for too long.  I'll bet we could get into a deep jargon-laden conversation with Dunc with nautical terms as well.

Tom

[Tom Munch]

Actually, a basic understanding of camera stuff really helps to take better pictures, & it's not as complex as understanding an internal combustion engine - something we probably all know cold.  I'll look for a really basic camera how-to & post it if you guys want it.

Tom

[NutSAK]

I'm also going to try to take some example pictures so show differences in depth of field to try to illustrate what we've been talking about.

[665ae]

My biggest problem is that I absolutely refuse to read the instruction manual for anything unless I can't get it to work at all  :grin:

[Grant Lamontagne]

Just check the technical stats section real quick and check out "focal range" then make certain your object is within that range.  From there, if it's under two to three feet, use the Macro function.  That's the one that is usually marked with a little flower.

Beyond that the rest is just fancy words...

Def

[NutSAK]

I guess it's true what they say....

You can't teach an old dog new tricks.   

[Grant Lamontagne]

I am certain that each and every one of those other things that you guys mentioned would be helpful to anyone wishing to get the most out of your camera, and I would love to see any and all the info you have on that stuff, but the bottm line is that 665ae seems to want (correct me if I am wrong Mike!) to just snap off a few decent looking pictures.  If that's all he (or anyone else) wants to do, then why burden them with extraneous information and jargon?

I on the other hand, love to read that kind of stuff.  I have a couple of photography books, and do spend a fair bit of time researching these kinds of things.  That's why I chose the Kodak that I have, because there are not only several (16 I think) shooting modes, and there's also the ability to adjust all the settins manually as well.

Def isn't always as dumb as he looks!

Def

[Tom Munch]

Sorry, Def.  You were taking a Luddite stance, so I figured you didn't want to know anything about this.

Another thing you can do with some "instant" cameras is to get an auxiliary macro lens to put on the front for close-ups.  They used to make these for some cameras, & I should look to see if they still do.  (They probably don't)

Tom

[Tom Munch]

I meant to relay a story in regards to this as well.  I was out doing some photo stuff with a friend the other day who had gotten a new fairly-inexpensive digital camera.  We experimented with the macro (flower icon) setting on his camera on some close-ups of bark & plants.  It worked really well.  He was able to get within about a foot or less from the objects, & they looked very clear in the images.  Of course this was outside so there was plenty of light.  I'm not sure with a flash that they would have been as clear.  Finding a really well-lit place to take close-ups would also be a good idea.

Tom

[665ae]

I am certain that each and every one of those other things that you guys mentioned would be helpful to anyone wishing to get the most out of your camera, and I would love to see any and all the info you have on that stuff, but the bottm line is that 665ae seems to want (correct me if I am wrong Mike!) to just snap off a few decent looking pictures.  If that's all he (or anyone else) wants to do, then why burden them with extraneous information and jargon?

You're somewhat right Def.  I do want to snap a few decent pictures.  I'd also like to learn some more about my camera, but am really a hands on type person.  A lot of times a manual doesn't seem to help.

I was going to check out some stuff on my camera in the manual.... but.... uh.... I can't find it 

[Grant Lamontagne]

That's a poor excuse- unless your camera is some cheap Himalayan brand, manuals are usually available from the manufacturer's website!

Def

[NutSAK]

Def isn't always as dumb as he looks!

Def

I might have called you an old dog, but I never said you looked dumb.   :grin:

[Tom Munch]

665ae,

I tried to point out some other common-sense techniques in that story that work so that you don't have to find a manual fi you don't want to.  Experimenting always works for me.

Tom

[eodtech]

Here is a "brief" on my Digital Camera camera that I currently have vs what I would like to upgrade to .....

I have a 18 month old Canon SD450  DC with 512MB SD/MMC card.
99.9 % of my camera use is inside photography involving posting photos on WWW - forums, eBay, homepage,etc.

I really want a larger frame DC, the ultra is nice if you want a " traveling / outdoors camera" but in the last 12 years I can think of maybe 6 times my DC cameras have been outside - 2 weddings - 2 times to document hurricane damage ( Ivan and Katrina) - 2 times to test macro settings on flowers in the garden when the camera was just out of the box. That is it.

PS: my SD450 Canon DC, 512MB SD memory card, hard carrying case for camera, extra Lithium Ion battery ( 2 total )) + AC charger , CD of software , manuals, original blank warranty card,  original box AND a Canon SELPHY CP510 color photograph printer ( camera and printer are PictBridge ready - just plug camera into the printer and color prints are printed, computer is not needed to print ) with 3 ink/paper cartridges - 108 color 4" x6"  prints total are ALL available for one low price. e-mail me if you want a deal on this complete package.

What I would like:
tripod lug
larger body - UC is too small for my pudgy paws
manual controls are not a necessity - I'm a point and shoot guy
lens threads to add lenses / filters OR the ability to change complete lens to a macro lens
tripod
under US$400


Nice to have:

firewire connection
large LCD screen - 2" minimum
non proprietary battery
ease of use - point and shoot - manual adjustments are not a necessity.
cheap memory cards


DC that Look good so far:
1. Sony DSC-H5
2. Sony DSC-H9
3. Kodak Z612
4. Canon S3


What say ye - other recommendations appreciated 


TIA

[Grant Lamontagne]

I really like the Kodak series of cameras.  The one I use, the z650 is available for ~$200 right now, and is a 6.1mp model.  There are some newer, higher mp models available too.

The nice thing about mine is that it offers 16 different shooting modes and a manual adjustment for getting adventurous, so you have the option of point and shoot or getting technical.  It also has a 10X optical zoom, although as an indoor camera that might not be of interest to you.  The controls are pretty simple and intuitive, but then that might be because this is my second Kodak camera.

One thing that makes a HUG difference as well is the lens. The higher end Kodaks come with a Schneider-KRUEZNACH Vriagon lens, which doesn't mean a blasted thing to me, except that it takes better, clearer pictures.  I did a test a while back between my two cameras.  I set them both to 5mp (the max for my smaller camera) and took similar pictures, and while the smaller cam was nice enough, the detail and sharpness from the higher end camera was significant.  It may have been a better sensor inside the camera, but I have read in various magazines that it's the lens that makes most of the difference.

Plus, the Kodak has the EasyShare docking system which allows you to plug the camera directly into the computer or a printer with no computer necessary.  I don't use the feature myself, but I hear it's pretty easy.

It takes SD cards and works up to the 2g cards I usually put into it.  And, it takes 2xAA batteries.  I use rechargeable lithium batteries which are a little pricey, but they last longer than alkalines do.

Def

[eodtech]

99.9 % of my camera use is inside photography involving posting photos on WWW - forums, eBay, homepage,etc.

I really want a larger frame DC

What I would like:
tripod lug
larger body
manual controls are not a necessity
lens threads to add lenses / filters OR the ability to change complete lens to a macro lens
tripod
under US$400

Nice to have:
firewire connection
large LCD screen - 2" minimum
non proprietary battery
ease of use - point and shoot - manual adjustments are not a necessity.
cheap memory cards

DC that Look good so far:
1. Sony DSC-H5
2. Sony DSC-H9
3. Kodak Z612
4. Canon S3

The purchase has been made and  the WINNER is

I got ALL the items in this new camera ( $299 - open box at an Internet dealer ) that I was looking for including cheap memory, Sony Memory Sticks sure have dropped in price since I had my last one several years ago and it's the only added memory I have to add to a device, so I can overlook that for now.  Additional features that came on this camera are: metal body, 3.0" LCD color display with 230,000 pixels, lens hood and a hood adapter, ISO sensitivity from ISO 80 to 1,000, a choice of both aperture- and shutter-priority plus a fully manual mode, 32MB of internal memory and long battery life from rechargeable  AA batteries, 4 included with the camera and an external Sony battery charger. Plus a carrying case and I bought an additional used Sony close up / macro lens for $49 off Amazon.

I look forward to getting the camera in a couple days.