Research Questions (before I wreck anything)

[AimlessWanderer]

OK - I am planning a few modifications to tools ... and never having done it before I'd like to share my thoughts about the projects BEFOREHAND so the more experienced amongst you can stop me from doing anything too silly. If anyone had anything they'd like to chuck in - comments/advice/warnings ... please, feel free. Any and all input would be appreciated.
 

1) Paul Chen Multitasker
This tool is quite an endearing concoction - a bit of a Frankenstein tool. I like it actually (including the piggy back pliers), but it does have it's shortcomings. The main thing's I don't like are the inability to fix the file to the body for use, and the utterly pathetic saw. I'm keeping my eyes open for Gerbers for it to mate with and produce a more refined offspring, either by swapping the shears into another body, or ideally just finding a replacement for that saw blade (NOTE: I have wrecked/sprained the backspring in that area by forcing the file outwards, and not sure if this can be salvaged yet). More details here: LINK
SPECIFIC QUERIES:
In your opinion is it worth trying to keep the body of the multitasker, or would I be as well just swapping the shears out onto a different tool and sacrificing the piggyback pliers?

2) British Army Knife
A beast of a pocket knife. Ugly, strong and resilient - with the worlds worst ergonomics! Thought about reshaping the blade to a Wharncliffe to reduce how far it sticks out when using the can opener or marlin spike, and fitting wooden scales to give a more rounded grip. Also (if possible) reshaping the back end of the can opener so it rides freer on the backspring without being such a nail breaker to open.
SPECIFIC QUERIES:
Will I need to disassemble the knife to relieve the can opener tension, or is there a way of doing this "whole"?

3) LM Juice CS4
Me and this tool are not friends (some of you have probably noticed  ), but rather than JUST gripe about it - I thought the only way out of the situation is try to rework it. Here is my original assessment: LINK
The plan is to:
a) address the scissors, dressing the edge and removing the serrations which were "almost" machined in (grinding tool must have been VERY worn when it got to mine). I think the reason these scissors do not stow freely is the hinge pin protrudes, which I should be able to hone flat. If that doesnt work I need to increase spacer width somehow
b) flatten off the can opener so it's just a bottle opener and waiter assist. It doesn't open cans anyway, but this'll help get better contact on wine and beer bottles without undue pressures in the wrong areas.
c) remove the awl and saw altogether, and find/make other tools to go in their place
d) attempt to fit a thumb stud (?) to the knife blade where the nail nick is, so it becomes OHO but still a slippie. Unsure of simplest way of achieving this
e) remove grey alu scales, and fit hardwood scales to improve looks, correct variations in handle thickness, and allow stowage of Vix toothpick & tweezers (hopefully)
f) possibly remove/modify one of the flat driver
NOTE: Tools I wish to incorporate is a (working) awl, a file and a scraper (chisel style) edge
SPECIFIC QUERIES:
Can I use brass rods for the pins afterwards or do they have to be stainless for strength? If stainless does this require special tools/techniques for peening, or do I just treat as with brass pins?
Any idea what diameter pins I need (so I don't take it apart and forget how it goes back whilst waiting on materials)?
Thoughts on tools which are easily converted to fit the Juice?

4) Victorinox Deluxe Tinker
Cracked my Silvertech scales by dropping it, and have some Vic replacements en route - I'd still like to try to fit hardwood scales on here in time, and in such a way as they'll accept the tweezers & corkscrew which never seem to make it onto homemade scales - especially in natural materials
SPECIFIC QUERIES:
Do I need to consider reinforcing the underside of the scales to avoid tool slots (toothpick etc) weakening them too much?

Yes I know - some of these are quite ambitious for a total novice.  Also time is in shorter supply than enthusiasm, so these won't be attempted immediately (sorry). Depending upon feedback received, depends on which order I attempt them .... or not 

TIA for your suggestions 

[nuphoria]

Mmmm, good questions he has.




I can only help with No.4 really.

You can file out slots for the pen etc with little needle files. Just copy the pattern on the original scale. I have seen it done a few times with no mention of reinforcement needed, so I imagine if it's good quality hardwood or bone etc, it will be fine

We want pics, whatever you do

Go for it

[J-sews]

3) LM Juice CS4
SPECIFIC QUERIES:
Can I use brass rods for the pins afterwards or do they have to be stainless for strength? If stainless does this require special tools/techniques for peening, or do I just treat as with brass pins?
Any idea what diameter pins I need (so I don't take it apart and forget how it goes back whilst waiting on materials)?

I believe brass rod will work fine. The ends of the rod will need to be carefully peened. Rod diameter is 1/8 inch (.125")

[yud]

For 4 I can help, I have put T&T and pen slots in Vic, Wenger, and Wood scales.

No I have not found any renforcement needed.

[AimlessWanderer]

Thanks guys,

I think I'll make the BAK first project, as the others need more thought and don't want the Deluxe Tinker out of circulation just at the moment.

If anyone comes up with any other thought. - please throw them in the pot

Cheers 

[ryan1835]

3) LM Juice CS4
SPECIFIC QUERIES:
Can I use brass rods for the pins afterwards or do they have to be stainless for strength? If stainless does this require special tools/techniques for peening, or do I just treat as with brass pins?
Any idea what diameter pins I need (so I don't take it apart and forget how it goes back whilst waiting on materials)?

I believe brass rod will work fine. The ends of the rod will need to be carefully peened. Rod diameter is 1/8 inch (.125")

what did you use on your super juice bob? i thought brass didnt work so well or was that because you used a super steel?

[J-sews]

The stainless pins I made did not play well with the stainless blades pivoting on them. The metal galled and boogered up. So the Super Juice has been on hold all these many months while I wait for opportunity to make new pins from brass.

[jzmtl]

The stainless pins I made did not play well with the stainless blades pivoting on them. The metal galled and boogered up. So the Super Juice has been on hold all these many months while I wait for opportunity to make new pins from brass.

Bob, have you tried another grade of SS? I mean all the tac folders out there use SS blade and SS pivot and none of those has the galling problem. Perhaps the galling was caused by too large difference in hardness, I know on lockback folders if the lock bar isn't hardened right it can gall with blade tang.

[J-sews]

I believe you are exactly right Jie. So I could try a different grade of stainless pin, but I already had the brass, so I thought I'd give it a try first.

[AimlessWanderer]

The stainless pins I made did not play well with the stainless blades pivoting on them. The metal galled and boogered up. So the Super Juice has been on hold all these many months while I wait for opportunity to make new pins from brass.

Bob, have you tried another grade of SS? I mean all the tac folders out there use SS blade and SS pivot and none of those has the galling problem. Perhaps the galling was caused by too large difference in hardness, I know on lockback folders if the lock bar isn't hardened right it can gall with blade tang.

Is stainless more malleable than brass? I know brass has bearing properties anyway, but find it surprising to think that stainless pins would suffer "pick-up" and brass would not suffer in some respect. Sounds like something is rubbing more than it should to me .... 

[Sparky415]

Thanks guys,

I think I'll make the BAK first project, as the others need more thought and don't want the Deluxe Tinker out of circulation just at the moment.

If anyone comes up with any other thought. - please throw them in the pot

Cheers 

Trad, I want to see what you make of the BAK 
Is it a new one?
I was thinking of adding some wood scales to a newish one but didn't want to loose the bail 

[AimlessWanderer]

Thanks guys,

I think I'll make the BAK first project, as the others need more thought and don't want the Deluxe Tinker out of circulation just at the moment.

If anyone comes up with any other thought. - please throw them in the pot

Cheers 

Trad, I want to see what you make of the BAK 
Is it a new one?
I was thinking of adding some wood scales to a newish one but didn't want to loose the bail 

I've had it for about 3 years now, but it's not done much work. I'm gonna try oak on them and try to create a v notch around the bail to allow it to move a little. I'll get them rough shaped them have to decide about whether to split the knife open to ease the backspring tension (re-profile the back of the tools) or leave as is.

The tricky bit on the scales will be the notch as I'm also considering red fibre liners. I think I'll have to bond the liner to the scale for shaping the notch as I wont be able to sand them flush after fitting. I was also staring at the marlin spike earlier, wondering if I really wanted it or could think of a better implement for that edge. Briefly considered cuttting it off, drilling and tapping the stub and mounting a small torch or firesteel there - those thoughts didn't last long 

[Sparky415]

I was thinking about a nice dark wood (the red liner sounds good)

I was wondering if it is possible to turn the spike in to an awl (looking at my latest BAK )

[jzmtl]

The stainless pins I made did not play well with the stainless blades pivoting on them. The metal galled and boogered up. So the Super Juice has been on hold all these many months while I wait for opportunity to make new pins from brass.

Bob, have you tried another grade of SS? I mean all the tac folders out there use SS blade and SS pivot and none of those has the galling problem. Perhaps the galling was caused by too large difference in hardness, I know on lockback folders if the lock bar isn't hardened right it can gall with blade tang.

Is stainless more malleable than brass? I know brass has bearing properties anyway, but find it surprising to think that stainless pins would suffer "pick-up" and brass would not suffer in some respect. Sounds like something is rubbing more than it should to me .... 

It could happen, I had an wenger ranger, and the blade was galling with pin so bad I can barely open it one hand.

[AimlessWanderer]

I was thinking about a nice dark wood (the red liner sounds good)

I was wondering if it is possible to turn the spike in to an awl (looking at my latest BAK )

I'm going to darken the wood (a bit) by soaking in universal wood treatment first. I did consider the awl, but it's a bit exposed (ouch)

[AimlessWanderer]

The stainless pins I made did not play well with the stainless blades pivoting on them. The metal galled and boogered up. So the Super Juice has been on hold all these many months while I wait for opportunity to make new pins from brass.

Bob, have you tried another grade of SS? I mean all the tac folders out there use SS blade and SS pivot and none of those has the galling problem. Perhaps the galling was caused by too large difference in hardness, I know on lockback folders if the lock bar isn't hardened right it can gall with blade tang.

Is stainless more malleable than brass? I know brass has bearing properties anyway, but find it surprising to think that stainless pins would suffer "pick-up" and brass would not suffer in some respect. Sounds like something is rubbing more than it should to me .... 

It could happen, I had an wenger ranger, and the blade was galling with pin so bad I can barely open it one hand.

Sorry jzmtl - not quite sure how I posted after you and didn't spot your post 
Thanks for the feedback - this just gets more curious! If a Wenger galls ... and they've pretty much sussed mix of materials I reckon ... hmmm  Definately something to consider. I am concerned about the tensile strength of brass as plier hinges though, especially as it work hardens.

I had a quick squint at available stainless (UK) at 3mm as there didn't appear to be any 1/8" or certainly not in low quantities, and the grades were 303/304 & 316. I'll do some sniffing round the charts I've got at work and look at the elongation (ductility) values, maybe that's the key - I'm certainly swaying towards your hardness/mech properties theory now.

Where do the UK knife modders go for their materials anyway?

[jzmtl]

I have tons of SAKs, that was the only one galled and was more or less like that out of box, so I suspect something else was at work, maybe the blade pivot hole wasn't smooth. So I wouldn't worry about it.