That looks great! I didn't used to pay any attention to Alox stuff. I just liked the red 91mm SAKs and that was it. Now I'm really into the Alox mods and those dang backtool pins have me wanting to do 91 mods by request only. Once I put a Phillips driver in a 93 that was the end of any reason to carry a 91. 93s have a better awl, stronger blade and the ability to easily adapt the only other 91 tools I wanted which is the scissors and pliers. Not to mention that enlarging the holes is a matter of shaving a minuscule .007"! One more tip to speed up your disassembly, http://www.progresstool.com/prod_images_blowup/ba-1446-010-b.jpgMeisinger 2mm bur. Works like an internal pipe cutter,http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/017197/017197375163lg.jpgI drill only down past the head portion of the rivet, about 2mm deep. Then the bur gets run around the inside bottom of the hole about 3 times on full Dremel speed with a very light touch and the head pops loose. I broke down 7 SAKs in an hour with no damage to any scale.
Quote from: Ashley on January 22, 2012, 09:49:33 PM Hey stop drooling on me! JR
Wow, you are really getting some good results on this alox MOD. Great work!
Oh man.. here's another great reason for the torx and pivot method... when you put parts on wrong! LOL Anyone spot a problem here?(Image removed from quote.)This one has the smaller torx button heads and I think I like these the best now, closest look to rivets I think.
I see the problem: you forgot the saw
Great work, you're doing some nice alox MOD so far.
OMG yes! I didn't have any problems drilling out the springs or parts to 1/8 inch. The tool components for alox SAKS start at 3mm anyhow, so not much material to remove. Small price to pay for easy assembly and servicing! The only thing I'm wishing is for some screws that looked more like rivets. Maybe the button heads would look better. I could hit the alox scales with a milling bit to square the hole bottoms... hmmm
I am interested to hear how you did drill out the holes on the smaller components , I would of thought getting the smaller parts secured & drilled out would of been a bit of a head ache .
A 2 flute carbide end mill works really good .
I've gone through more screw variations than I want to admit, but I am 100% happy with these flathead variety. They fit like a glove in the end holes so I only need to kiss the center hole with a drill bit to get the screw to fit there. Since hardly any drilling needed to be done, the scales have the maximum amount of pivot extending into them, for maximum strength. They are also nicely flush with the surface.
Quote from: Syph007 on March 01, 2012, 03:27:15 AMI've gone through more screw variations than I want to admit, but I am 100% happy with these flathead variety. They fit like a glove in the end holes so I only need to kiss the center hole with a drill bit to get the screw to fit there. Since hardly any drilling needed to be done, the scales have the maximum amount of pivot extending into them, for maximum strength. They are also nicely flush with the surface.Those screw heads look great! Are you polishing them? I chuck a pin in a Dremel collet and screw the screws into it and spin them full speed while hitting them with 600 grit paper to take the machine marks out, then some Flitz on a rag and they look like chrome.
The fit & finish on that Urban Pioneer is just amazing!Jeff