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What do you take up a rockface?

Santos · 11 · 1582

br Offline Santos

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What do you take up a rockface?
on: April 11, 2012, 07:35:03 AM
Next month i'm going to be doing my first ever multi-pitch climb and so i wondering what outdoor rock climbers take with them when the can't just dump all the extra gear at the base of the single climb.  Just concerned about weight as me and my climbing buddy will prob have a fair bit of weight with quick draws/bolt plates/ 'biners & atc

i always climb rocking my bandana, sleeveless and with long cargo pants. I'm pointing this out as i'm hoping to avoid a backpack. I also dont want stuff catching on things all the time  :facepalm: Scalling 6 pitches so fatigue is a concern.
I'm thinking so far
-a powerlock for locked biners.

-A light hardcase pocket first aid kit approx 12x8x3cm (what things should i really have in there  :think:)

-Duct tape

- a knife. Canditates are a fixed blade becker b11 neck knife or a Victorinox OH-trekker
The trekker is appealing cause of its one hand opening but like Def pointed out about the CRKT neckola in another thread having it cutting as soon as its out of the sheath eliminates fidgity when you are out of time. the Bk11 could be razor sharp before i go, Have the hardcase attached to my harness thigh and clip a carabiner with an inch or two of paracord through the skeletool handle so i don't lose it

-water. How much and best method of carrying, i dont think i really want to invest in a hydration pack

-Protein/ration bars. one or two in the pockets high calories. i dont particularly like them but the weight to energy ratio might be worth looking into

what else should i be taking?

I hope sharing my thoughts hasn't been all in vain and ideas flow forth. It will give me a chance to play dress ups and walk around with the stuff in the house so i can tinker with the setup 8)
“A good plan isn't one where someone wins, it's where nobody thinks they've lost.”
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us Offline Heinz Doofenshmirtz

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #1 on: April 11, 2012, 09:22:45 AM
You might want to reconsider a hydration back, especially if you're not going to use a regular backpack.  I mean, otherwise, how are you going to carry the water?  Camelbacks are supposed to be great packs, although I've never owned one, my current dedicated hiking/outdoors pack has a reservoir capacity which I've used on short outings where I'm not carrying a lot of bulk or weight.  When my back is loaded up though I prefer to use standard stainless or nalgene bottles instead.

I'd think a good stout folder would be a better choice than a fixed blade knife.  Since you're climbing, I'll assume you might encounter a situation where you need to make emergency cuts in a rope, so something with a combo edge would probably be advisable.  A folder is usually going to be lighter as well, depending on the knife of course.

I'm not a climber, honestly, so take my thoughts with a grain of salt.  The most I've ever done is some impromptu bouldering here and there while out on various camping / packing trips.  I did some caving for the first time last summer and really enjoyed it, so I want to get into it more, so that may necessitate I learn how to climb, but I'm in no rush for that.  I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
The first Noble Truth: life is suffering.  Only by accepting that fact can we transcend it.


um Offline Mr. Whippy

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #2 on: April 17, 2012, 05:59:51 PM
Depends on how many pitches per climb.  Also, are you rapping back down or is it a hike off?

If you're rapping back down, bring a backpack with pleny of water.  4L for an all day trip, 2 L for 6 or fewer hours (maybe more if you're someone who drinks a lot).  Just enough food to stave off hunger.  In terms of knives, MT etc, I Like to bring a Skeletool.  OHO knife, integral carabiner and in a pinch you can use the bit driver to pry with.

I'm assuming you're trad climbing.  You will need a rock tool to remove stuck gear, that's a specialty tool.  Whoever you're going with, they'll have that one.

If you're hiking off, pick a pack that has compression straps that brings the pack very close to your back.  Bring 1 liter of water on the climb itself, and leave the rest of the water where you can get to it after the hike back down.  Climbing with a pack really changes the balance of your climbing. 

I assume you're seconding (since you've not done mulitipitch before) so your rack will get heavier as you go, since you're going to be cleaning the route.

Belaying at an anchor can be quite exciting if there's not much of a ledge (maybe even a hanging belay).  If you don't normally carry gloves for belaying/rappelling it may be worth bringing a pair.

Have fun, multipitch is awesome!


um Offline Mr. Whippy

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #3 on: April 17, 2012, 06:12:25 PM
Just re-read your post.

6 pitches doesn't mean you won't rappel back to the base.  Rap to a lower anchor, reset and rap again until you're down.

I wouldn't bring a powerlock.  Locking biners shouldn't be that tight.  Even when ice climbing (where screwgates can freeze closed) a few taps on the rock or other hard object will break it free. 

I'd skip the duct tape and bring along cloth tape.  You can make an improvised glove (for crack climbing etc) with it, in addition to using it in case of bad cuts.

Definitely will need a pack.  Small one, but you're going to be hauling at least one 60M rope and probably a couple racks of gear (quickdraws, slings, various nuts, cams, etc). Unless you're climbing roadside, a pack is the most convenient way to bring your gear in (plus you can keep your shoes less dusty standing on your pack, if you don't need to climb with it on.


br Offline Santos

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #4 on: April 20, 2012, 04:53:23 AM
The grade of the climb is extremly low at 13, combination of trad and boltplates. i could probably safely solo it. Its more about getting the practice/experience for harder stuff in the future. Not sure if its a rapel or hike back down.

 Was trying to avoid the pack to increase the surface area of my touch sensitivity and as mentioned balance.
Was thinking two small bottles to evenly distribute the weight, also if i stupidly drop one i still have some water.

Most of the gear is not mine so banging on a rock isn't appreciated. Might switch to a smaller paratool then. I was looking at a skeletool in the past but i cant afford one in the present time.

thanks everyone for the input so far
“A good plan isn't one where someone wins, it's where nobody thinks they've lost.”
- Terry Pratchett


um Offline Mr. Whippy

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #5 on: April 20, 2012, 03:32:59 PM
The grade of the climb is extremly low at 13, combination of trad and boltplates. i could probably safely solo it. Its more about getting the practice/experience for harder stuff in the future. Not sure if its a rapel or hike back down.

 Was trying to avoid the pack to increase the surface area of my touch sensitivity and as mentioned balance.
Was thinking two small bottles to evenly distribute the weight, also if i stupidly drop one i still have some water.

Most of the gear is not mine so banging on a rock isn't appreciated. Might switch to a smaller paratool then. I was looking at a skeletool in the past but i cant afford one in the present time.

thanks everyone for the input so far
What climbing grade system?  13 (Yosemite 5.13 is a pretty stiff climb!).  French system would be crazy hard.

Edit to add: The only reason I've ever had to bang on a locking biner is because it froze shut.  I don't think that's an issue for you.  I would skip a heavy pliers.  The lightest pliers with a knife is the way to go.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2012, 03:34:58 PM by Mr. Whippy »


br Offline Santos

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #6 on: April 20, 2012, 03:53:35 PM
Australian  :tu: (actually Ewbank)
according to a website its approx 5.8 USA.

My climbing ability is supposed to be hovering around the 20-22 mark which would 5.11 (a,b,c) Its hard to gauge since i perform much better outdoors and its subjective to whoever graded the rockface. I'm hoping to be at a level of climbing that when i go visit family in Rio de Janeiro i'll be able to complete most of the climbs (25-29 australian being the tougher ones)

As a side not there are some infamous climbs in victoria, graded at 34+
“A good plan isn't one where someone wins, it's where nobody thinks they've lost.”
- Terry Pratchett


um Offline Mr. Whippy

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #7 on: April 20, 2012, 04:07:00 PM
Australian  :tu: (actually Ewbank)
according to a website its approx 5.8 USA.

My climbing ability is supposed to be hovering around the 20-22 mark which would 5.11 (a,b,c) Its hard to gauge since i perform much better outdoors and its subjective to whoever graded the rockface. I'm hoping to be at a level of climbing that when i go visit family in Rio de Janeiro i'll be able to complete most of the climbs (25-29 australian being the tougher ones)

As a side not there are some infamous climbs in victoria, graded at 34+

Bolts are no brainers, clip the draw, clip the rope and go.  Where it gets dicey is placing trad gear.  Remember it's supposed to hold a fall.  I saw a guy (estimated 80 kg) take a 10 meter fall on a single piece.  It held, but if it hadn't, DAMN!  You have to be sure of your placements.  That's when it starts to get real.


br Offline Santos

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #8 on: April 20, 2012, 04:16:54 PM
One step at a time  :angel:
“A good plan isn't one where someone wins, it's where nobody thinks they've lost.”
- Terry Pratchett


us Offline Smaug

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What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #9 on: April 21, 2012, 05:53:46 PM
I'd leave the Powerlock, and just bring a serrated OHT/Soldier. Check your carabiners before you go.

If you're talking about Rick climbing, I think cargo pants would be a lot more in the way than a close-fitting backpack with a hydration pouch.

I'd bring paracord, a cell phone, and brush up on your knot-tying skills. Sunscreen too.
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um Offline Mr. Whippy

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Re: What do you take up a rockface?
Reply #10 on: April 21, 2012, 06:07:21 PM
I'd leave the Powerlock, and just bring a serrated OHT/Soldier. Check your carabiners before you go.

If you're talking about Rick climbing, I think cargo pants would be a lot more in the way than a close-fitting backpack with a hydration pouch.

I'd bring paracord, a cell phone, and brush up on your knot-tying skills. Sunscreen too.
Agree with all these points :tu:


 

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