Sharpening the 93mm awl?

[volbu]

Hello recently i started using the 93mm awl for whittling and i started wondering how could I sharpen the awl since its very useful and i guess the edge will get dull with the time?
Any experience on the matter?

[user24]

Yeah it's tricky. I screwed up the edge on mine by using it as a ferro-rod striker (works though). I gave it a long session on a stone (no idea what kind, sorry) and that's taken it back to half-decent, but I'd love more info on this too.

[Syph007]

I havent found an easy way yet.  It is awkward to hold it at the right angle for sure.

[Smaug]

I might get booed out of here for suggesting it, but this might be one application where motorized sharpening means is justified.

I have a flat whetstone machine (actually adhesive-backed sandpaper on a disc) for sharpening plane irons and chisels. I might try that out. I'll snap a pic next time I'm down in the garage.

With the stone continually moving, one would only need to maintain the angle, not maintain the angle AND move it back and forth or in a circular motion.

[Steinar]

I use a Sharpmaker most of the time when I sharpen knives, and would probably attempt to sharpen the reamer pretty much the same way scissors are sharpened on the Sharpmaker.

[volbu]

I use a Sharpmaker most of the time when I sharpen knives, and would probably attempt to sharpen the reamer pretty much the same way scissors are sharpened on the Sharpmaker.

Who says i know how to sharpen scissors :)

[quote  author=Smaug link=topic=37254.msg598714#msg598714 date=1335972059]
I might get booed out of here for suggesting it, but this might be one application where motorized sharpening means is justified.

I have a flat whetstone machine (actually adhesive-backed sandpaper on a disc) for sharpening plane irons and chisels. I might try that out. I'll snap a pic next time I'm down in the garage.

With the stone continually moving, one would only need to maintain the angle, not maintain the angle AND move it back and forth or in a circular motion.
[/quote]

Sounds interesting but sadly i have no access to motorized sharpening means

[theonew]

The 93mm awl is very easy to sharpen. It's kind of like sharpening a scandi grind knife. Lie the awl flat on a hone, lift the spine and you should be able to feel when the bevel angle is matched. While the awl on my Farmer wasn't particularly dull, it just took me about 3 minutes on a DMT extra fine hone to get it to shave leg hair.

[ICanFixThat]

Ya, I think the Reamer should be very easy to sharpen as it only has one side to do and it's pretty easy to see when the edge is layed on the stone correctly.  I'm a big fan of DMT sharpeners so I'd certainly recommend that, but really it seems even a basic file woudl work on the reamer.  Maybe there is something I'm missing.  I've touched up a few used ones that I bought, but have not had to do anything serious to one.

You can use the non-sharp edge for a striker with a fire-steel it works well also,

[Steinar]

I use a Sharpmaker most of the time when I sharpen knives, and would probably attempt to sharpen the reamer pretty much the same way scissors are sharpened on the Sharpmaker.

Who says i know how to sharpen scissors :)

at 7:10 describes what I was thinking of.

[Donald]

I have sharpened the back by following the current angle and then tried to smooth the front  along the edge with something very fine.

[volbu]

I have sharpened the back by following the current angle and then tried to smooth the front  along the edge with something very fine.

Thats the trick

I finally got to sharpen my 93mm all on my new used Rancher, it was in very bad condition but I got it to be sharper than my new harvester!

The only problem is the point is by no means so pointy!! Any tricks about that? How can I get it to be as new??
Feels its going to be really hard!!!

[Outback in Idaho]

I use a Sharpmaker most of the time when I sharpen knives, and would probably attempt to sharpen the reamer pretty much the same way scissors are sharpened on the Sharpmaker.

+1 

  Same here. Spyderco TASM brings it come every time. Also use a Pedigree green eraser to remove the metal particles from the stones after use.

  I also use the fine stone around the edges to make them square-sharp, not razor-sharp. Have done the same with the Leatherman Juice awls. Hope you filed the edge of the blade in one direction only, following the surface to the outer point. - Going back and forth with a file ruins the edge.

[Singh]

Color me confused but what’s the issue?  Unlike a knife blade, the 93mm has a nice broad bevel that’s easy to follow. Just take a diamond sharping stone, follow the bevel, and give it a few swipes.

[user24]

My issue was that it's a chisel grind so I ended up with a massive burr and no idea how to get rid of it; normally you swap sides and that sorts out the burr.

You can't even give it a few strokes on the flat side to knock the burr off because the awl has that lip so you can open the tool, and the lip means you can't lay that side flat on a stone.

[Wootz]

Sure you can enough.
Refine the edge more until the burr is thinner, then strop it both sides till it's gone.
Or run the edge along a piece of wood, this will remove any traces of a burr.

[stealth007s]

What about using a steel to remove the burr


Sent from Endor using Schlapatok

[user24]

yeah a strop or steel would work. I have neither, but I do wear a leather belt and sometimes strop on it (without compound), so I'll give that a shot.

[Dr Gonzo]

yeah a strop or steel would work. I have neither, but I do wear a leather belt and sometimes strop on it (without compound), so I'll give that a shot.

Stropping is good once you have an edge on the awl...I use a piece of sole leather I got from the cobblers loaded with Autosol