good edc fixed/folder?

[SAKnight]

I think about a 3-4.5" fixed blade in d2 would suit my needs rather well, but I'd also like to find about a 3" carbon steel folder. My uses are for school in the woods three or four days a week. Use will range from general woodwork, to opening cans, to serving stew, spreading peanut butter, getting dirty, food prep, possibly not getting cleaned for a day, and getting wet. The only sharpening I really have access to is a pull-through ceramic v rod sharpener. I'd prefer full tang for fixed, and here's the tough part: preferably under $40ish. Suggestions?

[jzmtl]

You aren't going to find D2 under $40, which is just as well because you can't sharpen it with pull through sharpener. Folder is easy, Both Opinel and Svord runs between $10 and 20, however with svord you will likely need to reprofile which again isn't possible with pull through sharpener.

[SAKnight]

Good to know and idea for a fixed blade that has a little more belly than a Mora? I have an Opinel no 8, sadly I can barely open it from humidity  though winter is falling so it may get better, or worse, who knows. It's a stainless one, and for folders, I'd prefer a synthetic handle that is easy to clean with just a sink, and I like the thought of carbon steel

[jzmtl]

If you aren't going for d2 the choices open up immensely. For low price there are several good ones in boker plus line, like the TUF, although it has a goofy sheath that's meant to carried inside belt. SOG also have several low priced fixed blade.

What I did to fix my opinel is to soak the pivot in boiling water fir several minutes, then repeatedly open and close it, I think it removed some wood so pivot is looser. Or you can remove the collar, punch out the pin and sand the notch wider. The svord peasant folder comes in plastic handle, though its a friction folder and quite big even folded (because of the tail). I don't have many carbon steels especially folders, so don't really know anything else.

[dks]

I was going to sugest a Mora fixed blade; any carbon steel model will do. However, sharpening with your sharpener may be a problem, as the Mora knives tend to have an unusual grind that most likely will not match your sharpener's angles.

There are some higher end Moras too, with thicker blades but still not much belly.

Also look at the new, plastic handled, opinel outdoor (SS). Should be tougher than the wooden one and has a thicker blade. Check this forum here for more details.
Cold steel has some cheap strong folding knives, in SS however.
Also look into Martiini and several of the US brands that are advertised as hard use.

[Heinz Doofenshmirtz]

Good to know and idea for a fixed blade that has a little more belly than a Mora? I have an Opinel no 8, sadly I can barely open it from humidity  though winter is falling so it may get better, or worse, who knows. It's a stainless one, and for folders, I'd prefer a synthetic handle that is easy to clean with just a sink, and I like the thought of carbon steel

Condor Basic 4" or 5" Bushcraft.

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CN2364HC/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Bushcraft-Basic-Camp-Knife-4-inch-Carbon-Steel-Black-Blade-Hardwood-Handle-Leather-Sheath

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CN2365HC/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Bushcraft-Basic-Camp-Knife-5-inch-Carbon-Steel-Black-Blade-Hardwood-Handle-Leather-Sheath

You might also want to check out these:

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CN2464HC/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Survival-Craft-Camp-Knife-4-inch-Carbon-Steel-Black-Blade-Polypropylene-Handles-Leather-Sheath

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CN2376HC/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Rodan-Camp-Knife-5-14-inch-Black-Carbon-Steel-Blade-Polypropylene-Handles-Leather-Sheath

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CN2394HC/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Sapien-Camp-Knife-4-inch-Carbon-Steel-Black-Blade-Hardwood-Handle-Leather-Sheath

Just ordered one of these for myself yesterday:

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CN2494HC/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-CTK249-4HC-Tavian-Knife-4-12-inch-Carbon-Steel-Blade-Hardwood-Handle-Leather-Sheath

[AimlessWanderer]

I think about a 3-4.5" fixed blade in d2 would suit my needs rather well, but I'd also like to find about a 3" carbon steel folder. My uses are for school in the woods three or four days a week. Use will range from general woodwork, to opening cans, to serving stew, spreading peanut butter, getting dirty, food prep, possibly not getting cleaned for a day, and getting wet. The only sharpening I really have access to is a pull-through ceramic v rod sharpener. I'd prefer full tang for fixed, and here's the tough part: preferably under $40ish. Suggestions?

Based on what you have there I'd suggest stainless rather than D2 whcih has a high chrome content but prob not high enough for the treatment you're saying it'll get. Talking of which, I wouldn't recommend using any knife for opening cans  Get a cheap SAK or even a P38 can opener

As for the rest, I'd take a look at Cold Steel's Roach Belly. For general knife use providing you aren't going to be doing anything stupid with it, it should be fine. Plenty of belly, the hollow grind should suit your sharpener, cheap, non-porous handle, and the shape keeps the edge forward of your knuckles. A lot of sheath knives are only any good at the tip for food prep as your hand gets in the way, but this one works quite well for leting you use more of the blade

[SAKnight]

Wow, thank you all so much! I think I realize why I Ann always looking for new knives though... I have a bear grylls small fixed blade, and a more suitable lmf II, though no sheath for it (help), a handle-less Gerber profile (my first fixed blade, used it all last year. I also have enough suitable stainless folders, though I have always wanted a carbon knife, it's just that I always get them new, and don't want to get then dirty, or lose their factory edge... For example, a couple weeks ago I got a spyderco police, and though I love it (prefer a tad more belly, that's why I have an endura on the way, thanks Dunc!) But I haven't used it since I realized it is the sharpest knife I've ever handled, and I don't want to use the draw through sharpener on it, and I don't want to get the pivot dirty... It kills me. I also have a vic centurion, but there's so many cracks for stuff to get in. my perfect folder at this point is a spyderco Jess horn, I absolutely love three frn handle, and the combo edge is lovely. and it's old enough I'm not afraid to use it, but the last 1/2" broke off, so I rounded it off... I'd love to get another, but they're not made. Sorry if that's droning, I can't read it for continuity easily on my phone.

As for opening cans with knives, if my Gerber profile can do it many times, I'd hope others could it's a lot faster than a vic opener, though I do use one from time to time.

[AimlessWanderer]

Just because a knife will open a can doesn't mean you should

The purpose of a knife is to be sharp, and cutting metal with it is a very good way for it not to be sharp Besides, it's hardly the safest way of getting a can open. One complacent slip might convince you not to try that again, but it would be nice if you found an alternate way that works for you before you start leaking red stuff everywhere 

Your knife, your choice, your fingers  just my opinion 

[SAKnight]

A true fact

Though being 17, I've been known to actually say, "speed over safety"

True that it can be dulling, though I also used that Gerber for digging trenches around my tent in the rain...

But yeah, I do usually have a cadet on me, or a pst, as I prefer the old lm opener to any current variety.

[AimlessWanderer]

 

[jzmtl]

it's just that I always get them new, and don't want to get then dirty, or lose their factory edge... For example, a couple weeks ago I got a spyderco police, and though I love it (prefer a tad more belly, that's why I have an endura on the way, thanks Dunc!) But I haven't used it since I realized it is the sharpest knife I've ever handled, and I don't want to use the draw through sharpener on it, and I don't want to get the pivot dirty...

Sounds like you would benefit from learning how to sharpen your knives than a new one, and that skills would benefit you for years to come. Put that $40 towards some stone, sandpaper and a cheap knife or two. Cleaning isn't really a big deal at all, run it under warm tap water and brush with with soap and toothbrush will get almost anything out, worst come disassemble it and clean the parts.

[SAKnight]

it's just that I always get them new, and don't want to get then dirty, or lose their factory edge... For example, a couple weeks ago I got a spyderco police, and though I love it (prefer a tad more belly, that's why I have an endura on the way, thanks Dunc!) But I haven't used it since I realized it is the sharpest knife I've ever handled, and I don't want to use the draw through sharpener on it, and I don't want to get the pivot dirty...

Sounds like you would benefit from learning how to sharpen your knives than a new one, and that skills would benefit you for years to come. Put that $40 towards some stone, sandpaper and a cheap knife or two. Cleaning isn't really a big deal at all, run it under warm tap water and brush with with soap and toothbrush will get almost anything out, worst come disassemble it and clean the parts.

I have a smiths diamond steel (stone?) But I was never able to get a fantastic edge. Difficulty with consistent edge angle, I believe. The pull sharpener will give me an edge on vics that will cut newsprint, and for $3, it was hard to justify twenty times that much for a better edge. The main problem, is I learn a bit better when someone shows me, and nobody I know knows how. Perhaps I'll invest. What's the best sharpener, by which I mean easiest, for a beginner such as I?

[jzmtl]

Probably Lansky system or Spyderco sharpmaker, although there are limitations to both. Or a Lansky turnbox for really cheap, less than $20 if I recall.

[Heinz Doofenshmirtz]

One of the systems would be a good way to start learning, and once you've got a better understanding of how they work, then start experimenting with doing it by hand.

I'm fortunate in that when I was young I worked in restaurants for several years, and learned from one of the chefs that I worked for how to hand sharpen the traditional way, with a stone and mineral oil.

One advantage of the new artificial diamond stones is that you can use them dry with no ill effects.  You can use water for flux if you want, but it's not necessary.  My experience with them is that using anything for flux doesn't really make much of a difference to the stone; crud will build up on it no matter what you use.  So, I just use them dry and frequently wipe the blade I'm working on.  Every few weeks/months I just dunk it in some hot soapy dishwater and scrub throughly with a fine, stiff bristled brush.  That takes a lot of the accumulated gunk off and makes them look pretty again.

[Styerman]

IIRC , Kabar makes/used to make some Dozier designed D2 collabs . They were pretty inexpensive in relation to quality . You might need to pick them up of Amazon or the Bay .

Chris

[Sparky415]

Wow, thank you all so much! I think I realize why I Ann always looking for new knives though... I have a bear grylls small fixed blade, and a more suitable lmf II, though no sheath for it (help), a handle-less Gerber profile (my first fixed blade, used it all last year. I also have enough suitable stainless folders, though I have always wanted a carbon knife, it's just that I always get them new, and don't want to get then dirty, or lose their factory edge... For example, a couple weeks ago I got a spyderco police, and though I love it (prefer a tad more belly, that's why I have an endura on the way, thanks Dunc!) But I haven't used it since I realized it is the sharpest knife I've ever handled, and I don't want to use the draw through sharpener on it, and I don't want to get the pivot dirty... It kills me. I also have a vic centurion, but there's so many cracks for stuff to get in. my perfect folder at this point is a spyderco Jess horn, I absolutely love three frn handle, and the combo edge is lovely. and it's old enough I'm not afraid to use it, but the last 1/2" broke off, so I rounded it off... I'd love to get another, but they're not made. Sorry if that's droning, I can't read it for continuity easily on my phone.

As for opening cans with knives, if my Gerber profile can do it many times, I'd hope others could it's a lot faster than a vic opener, though I do use one from time to time.

You could try making one from some PVC pipe, there's a nice little video here 
(reply no22)
http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,27818.msg617599.html#msg617599

I'm with the others on carrying something else to open cans with   

I find the 'Lansky System' good for my sharpening as it takes all the skill out of the job which suits me well