Sharpening suggestions for a complete rookie.

[Mike]

It's a really tricky thing to get into, there are so many opinions and options out there, and it does get more than a little comfusing

When I started out sharpening knives, there were no lanskys or sharpmakers, just the humble whetstone , and I still feel there the best way to learn the art of sharpening, the only trouble is as Def has already pointed out, there being made obsolete by the increasing use of sophisticated steels , although Saks and Multi's for the most part are still stone friendly, the charge is not.

So I'd be inclined to go down either the ceramic route, or a very fine diamond stone (make a mistake or use an incorrect technique with a coarse Diamond stone, and you will lose a lot of metal putting it right!) that way you'll be able to sharpen anything, not just sensible workaday steels

This got me thinking. What would be a good, basic, cover most of your different steel setup consist of? If I had to start over, I think I would get:

These are my top picks with no consideration for budget and should handle most of the super steels out there and everything else. I chose 8" stones because they are fine for pocket knife length blades, but longer is nicer.
8" Norton India combination stone Coarse/Fine benchstone
8" DMT Diasharp coarse, medium, fine, extra fine benchstones
8" Spyderco ceramic medium and fine benchstones
5" Spyderco Double Stuff ceramic medium/fine combination stone (pocket carry)

For SAK's, Bucks, and "lesser" steels I would simply get:
8" Norton India combination stone Coarse/Fine benchstone
Lansky replacement ceramic hones in medium and fine for pocket carry and/or touch-ups (I use a "fine" for freehand touch-ups)
And if you want this, Big John Super Stick ceramic sharpening rod

Oh boy, your going to have so much fun!
Mike

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Thats a pretty accurate assesment mate, glad to see you had some DMT stuff in the line up

[Benner]

Thats a pretty accurate assesment mate, glad to see you had some DMT stuff in the line up

I have looked into DMT.  Some cool stuff, but some comparatively expensive stuff too.

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

It is pricey stuff, but it last's and lasts , I love my Diafold, I've had it for bloody years and have sharpened all sorts of steels with it

[jzmtl]

If you are talking about the blades on multi only, there's no need to have diamond as any benchstone or sandpaper is enough.

[Benner]

It is pricey stuff, but it last's and lasts , I love my Diafold, I've had it for bloody years and have sharpened all sorts of steels with it

I looked into a Diafold (2 sided one) as I like the idea of having 2 grits.  The cheapest I could find (in the UK) was £30 inc P&P.  

[Benner]

If you are talking about the blades on multi only, there's no need to have diamond as any benchstone or sandpaper is enough.

I need it for MT's, SAK's and for the couple of fixed blades that I have as well.

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

If you are talking about the blades on multi only, there's no need to have diamond as any benchstone or sandpaper is enough.

That may have been true once upon a time, but with LM introducing S30V and 154cm a normal whetstone is hard pushed to put a dent in them, and even if they were it will take a long time to put an edge on them with a conventional stone.

[Mike]

That may have been true once upon a time, but with LM introducing S30V and 154cm a normal whetstone is hard pushed to put a dent in them, and even if they were it will take a long time to put an edge on them with a conventional stone.

Unfortunately, ain't that the truth. Used to able to get by with a simple crystolon combination bench stone from any hardware store and handle things. Not anymore.

Mike

[Benner]

If you are talking about the blades on multi only, there's no need to have diamond as any benchstone or sandpaper is enough.

That may have been true once upon a time, but with LM introducing S30V and 154cm a normal whetstone is hard pushed to put a dent in them, and even if they were it will take a long time to put an edge on them with a conventional stone.

I believe that the hardest steel I have is Aus 8 (might be wrong) so would I need diamond for that?

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

If you are talking about the blades on multi only, there's no need to have diamond as any benchstone or sandpaper is enough.

That may have been true once upon a time, but with LM introducing S30V and 154cm a normal whetstone is hard pushed to put a dent in them, and even if they were it will take a long time to put an edge on them with a conventional stone.

I believe that the hardest steel I have is Aus 8 (might be wrong) so would I need diamond for that?

Probably not, but it will take a while longer to do on a normal stone

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

That may have been true once upon a time, but with LM introducing S30V and 154cm a normal whetstone is hard pushed to put a dent in them, and even if they were it will take a long time to put an edge on them with a conventional stone.

Unfortunately, ain't that the truth. Used to able to get by with a simple crystolon combination bench stone from any hardware store and handle things. Not anymore.

Mike

Tell me about it

[Mike]

Aus8 ...... I think you'll be fine with a simple bench stone like the 8" Norton India combination stone Coarse/Fine benchstone. They are pretty inexpensive too. Aus8 isn't any more a big deal than a SAK or 420HC (Buck), etc. Good steels though with the proper heat treat, I like them.

Mike

[Mike]

Really Mike, you think he'll need more for AUS8? I mean, it's pretty decent, but not so much in the league of  S30V, D2, etc. I'm thinkin' he could get by with low cost sharpening stones. Hmmmm.

Mike

[Benner]

I'll look again into those Norton ones, but so far they have been quite expensive over here (uk).

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Really Mike, you think he'll need more for AUS8? I mean, it's pretty decent, but not so much in the league of  S30V, D2, etc. I'm thinkin' he could get by with low cost sharpening stones. Hmmmm.

Mike

Sorry mate (not to self, don't type when tired ) no your right and I didn't phrase my reply properly, I used to sharpen my CS Voyager on a whetstone just fine and thats AUS8

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

If you are talking about the blades on multi only, there's no need to have diamond as any benchstone or sandpaper is enough.

That may have been true once upon a time, but with LM introducing S30V and 154cm a normal whetstone is hard pushed to put a dent in them, and even if they were it will take a long time to put an edge on them with a conventional stone.

I believe that the hardest steel I have is Aus 8 (might be wrong) so would I need diamond for that?

Probably not, as AUS8 isn't to tough a steel to sharpen, but it will take a while longer to do on a normal stone

[Mike]

I'll look again into those Norton ones, but so far they have been quite expensive over here (uk).

Hmmm, Smokey Mountain Knife Works has them for $11.99(U.S) plus shipping. Man, I would think you could find them fairly reasonably in the U.K as well, maybe e-bay?

Mike

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

I'll look again into those Norton ones, but so far they have been quite expensive over here (uk).

Hmmm, Smokey Mountain Knife Works has them for $11.99(U.S) plus shipping. Man, I would think you could find them fairly reasonably in the U.K as well, maybe e-bay?

Mike

Never underestimate the UK mark up on things

[Benner]

I'll look again into those Norton ones, but so far they have been quite expensive over here (uk).

Hmmm, Smokey Mountain Knife Works has them for $11.99(U.S) plus shipping. Man, I would think you could find them fairly reasonably in the U.K as well, maybe e-bay?

Mike

I was getting nowhere near that!  I was looking for 2 grit ones though.

[Mike]

Never underestimate the UK mark up on things

Well that sucks.

Mike

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Never underestimate the UK mark up on things

Well that sucks.

Mike

Try living here

[Benner]

Ok, now another question.  I have found Norton Combi stones for a reasonable(ish) price but the grit makes a huge difference to the cost.  What should I be looking at getting?

[Mike]

Ok, now another question.  I have found Norton Combi stones for a reasonable(ish) price but the grit makes a huge difference to the cost.  What should I be looking at getting?

I'd be looking at Fine India and Coarse combination. It's a nice stone, the coarse would be for genuine sharpening or re-profiling and the Fine India would be for finishing off the sharpening and re-profiling. However, if it's much cheaper for the standard Fine/Coarse crystolon you'll be fine and I wouldn't be put off by that.

Mike

[Benner]

Ok, now another question.  I have found Norton Combi stones for a reasonable(ish) price but the grit makes a huge difference to the cost.  What should I be looking at getting?

I'd be looking at Fine India and Coarse combination. It's a nice stone, the coarse would be for genuine sharpening or re-profiling and the Fine India would be for finishing off the sharpening and re-profiling.

Mike

The cheapest I can find is this http://shop.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk/product/asp/ProdID/5298/af/page.htm  and it doesn't exactly give a lot of info.

[Benner]

Ok I have also found this http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/NCWS1 and now I am even more confused .  What's the difference between a waterstone and an oilstone?

[Mike]

LOL! You're not kidding, not a whole lot to go on. Anyway you can call them or shoot them and e-mail and find out which one it actually is? But those are the nice long stones too, good for your longer kitchen and hunting knives.

Mike

[Mike]

Water stone you use water on and an oil stone you use oil along with being made with different materials. Then your also getting into microscopic differences on the edge, etc, etc, etc. That's kind of an over simplification, but it's all I have. Oil is fine, though a little messy but not bad as you don't need to use a whole lot. Generally speaking, once a stone has been used with oil, you are stuck using oil. This is especially true if like the Norton stones they come pre-impregnated (stop laughing) with oil. This is kind of where diamond and ceramic stones are kind of nice as you can use just water with the diamonds and dry with the ceramics and clean-up is pretty easy.

You will go crazy if you agonize these differences for simply wanting to put a working edge on your multi-tools and pocket knives. My advice, get the less expensive oil stone, many a knife has been sharpened using them for years and years.
Mike

[Benner]

Mike you have been very helpful, thanks.  At least now I know what I am looking for.

[Mike]

You bet, it's no problem. It's always nice to be able to get someone started with sharpening freehand. It's really kind of a dying art as you just don;t see people doing it all that often. I mean, my grandfather used to sharpen his knives, I mean razor sharp freehand.

Anyhow,  what will probably happen is you will buy a bench stone and promptly make your knife duller than when you started. LOL! Welcome to the club! You have just started on your journey at that point. Just remember, if you can dull it on your stone, you can also sharpen it. The mistakes I made were, not taking my time and not holding a consistent angle.

Couple of other things come to mind. Shaving the hair on your arm is somewhat over rated, though fun. Edge angle obsession should be avoided. Take your time and have fun!

Now I know I could catch a lot of heat for this next statement, but here goes. Stay away (half joking) from a couple of well known knife related forums for sharpening advice, it will only complicate your life! Sooooo many different opinions, soooooo much advice, they all mean well, and some of them are very knowledgeable way more than I am ..... but man I just think when you get into looking at the edge of your drawer queen with a jewelers loupe after sharpening it you've gone mad. Go if you want, just don't get sucked into all the possibilities of knife sharpening, keep it realistic for what you want. What I wanted was a decent working edge that I could maintain myself with a minimum of fuss, probably what you want too.

Keep us posted and good luck!
Mike