Wanted: Detailed Diagram of the 91mm Plus Scales

[Outback in Idaho]

Does anyone have a blueprint, real sized photo, or tracing of the 91mm Plus 'pin' scale?

Am considering making some plus handles for my Climber, probably out of wood. I only have the non-plus scales, would like to have a diagram of some sort to go by. Something that I can actually use.

Thank You. 

[Outback in Idaho]

Just ordered a pair of North Queensland Silky Oak Wood Knife Scales from eBay for $13.70 AUD ($14.66 USD).



Now to acquire a plus scale schematic to construct a set. Should have enough of the wood left over to make other things with, maybe even silky oak toothpicks. 

Maybe even make a silk oak bead for a lanyard. 

[WoodMan]

PM me your email and I can send you a .dwg or .dxf copy.  Or even a paper copy if you're willing to send your mailing address. I also have full-size .jpg scans of them if you want those.

[Outback in Idaho]

PM me your email and I can send you a .dwg or .dxf copy.  Or even a paper copy if you're willing to send your mailing address. I also have full-size .jpg scans of them if you want those.

Don't have any CAD software though. Are there any free or trial viewers for CADnoobies?
PM Incoming. Thank you

[PTRSAK]

Should have enough of the wood left over to make other things with, maybe even silky oak toothpicks. 

Maybe even make a silk oak bead for a lanyard. 

If you are careful, and have the tools to do it, you should be able to get Two sets of scales out of EACH of those blanks or enough to do 4 knives all up. I bought a pair of the Yellow Box Burl blanks and will be squeezing the max number out of them.

138x40 is big enough to "top and tail" the scales and fit two on the blank and they are 11mm thick so you could split them and still be thick enough for scales with slots for T&T, pin and pen.

[Outback in Idaho]

Should have enough of the wood left over to make other things with, maybe even silky oak toothpicks. 

Maybe even make a silk oak bead for a lanyard. 

If you are careful, and have the tools to do it, you should be able to get Two sets of scales out of EACH of those blanks or enough to do 4 knives all up. I bought a pair of the Yellow Box Burl blanks and will be squeezing the max number out of them.

138x40 is big enough to "top and tail" the scales and fit two on the blank and they are 11mm thick so you could split them and still be thick enough for scales with slots for T&T, pin and pen.

If only had access to a hand miter saw that might do it. Perhaps could cut the blanks in blocks first, then use a hacksaw blade to split the thickness again. Will look into it. I don't have a shop to work in, so will be making these at home. Do have a Dremel tool though. 

[KTesh]

Don't have a diagram... Got photos...



I've got a full set of them (image is a link)

[papercut]

Edrawing viewer for cad viewer or auto desk has one free one too.

[Outback in Idaho]

Was searching online for a 91mm scale, and found a more flat photo. Freehand scaled it down to really close. Is not accurate, but if nothing else the transparency could help assist in making a template. Thanks to EDC Source.

Think that bug is Neil's mark?

[lowtech]

Nothing special, but i slapped a pair on my scanner accompanied by a ruler with strange markings (me coming from the metric part of the world...)

[tosh]

I too was going to have a bash at this..not yet got round to it    despite buying the wood & horn blanks and like you I too was trying to workout the best possible way.

My own method was to simply photocopy the plus scales and simply stick this onto the material or failing that, photocopy the normal scales and ask a fellow mod member the exact dimensions of the pen slot.

However, another member, Mr Bee (not been around for a while) advised me to use the aluminium liners as the template  (brilliant idea) - this would then allow precise alignment of the holes for the rivets. I'm sure one of the many modders here on the forum would help you out in sourcing the liners.

A picture of your finished scales may well be the much needed push I need too, to get me inspired again.

Best of luck!

Why don't you consider photographing and uploading the whole sequence - then others who have attempted this in the past may well be able to offer advice to ensure the project is a success.

[HankSolon]

Do you want to CNC the scales?

If not, a detailed print is too much imho. Just cut rectangles of length x width (of normal scales) + 5mm panic space. In this step there allways something happens and you might adjust the exact position of the scale within that workpiece, exchange some workpieces to find better matching ones etc.

If you want to have exact positions of toothpick, tweezers, pen and needle you'll need to drill the exact recesses of the pivots before and and after that pre outline the shape.

Cutting the shape without drilling the recesses before results in a non accurate work.

[Outback in Idaho]

Nothing special, but i slapped a pair on my scanner accompanied by a ruler with strange markings (me coming from the metric part of the world...)

Outstanding. Used Picasa to scale the view, then screen captured it to match (very closely). Hopefully I can cut a temporary template from it, match to the standard scales I have, before tracing to the wood. Probably be at least a week before the wood scales arrive.

This is going to be an interesting project. 

Plan on having my Climber for many years. Don't have any spare aluminum scales to work with. That would be cool to have, drilled out centered holes to match up on the wood, then filing the outer edge to within 1mm or 2mm would be bonzer.
Be even more radical if the aluminum scale templates had cut or recessed channels for standard & plus scales.

Will make due with what I have, and try and not be too much of a pest here. There have been a few posts on wood SAK handles here already. Was doing some searches for 91mm Plus scales and finding all sorts of cool MTO posts.
Revived one I think. 

[WoodMan]

.dxf sent.  Check your email.

[PTRSAK]

ok, dodgy upload attempt...  I have added a .txt extension to Plus.DXF.  hopefully this will slip it past the upload robo-nazi.
if you rename the file to remove the .txt it will be openable in your favorite CAD program/viewer.

Also attached a PDF copy.  It is the vector image inside so should still be in 1:1 scale.

[Outback in Idaho]

.dxf sent.  Check your email.

Aye, thanks mate. Will be download a viewer once this rather large update gets finished. /anxious

[Outback in Idaho]

Seen that a Swiss Bianco of Canada has some Victorinox hat pins.

Couple of questions: Are these small, thin, & sturdy enough to be epoxied into 91mm hardwood scales, and are there any places to acquire a few from the US - since shipping went through the roof recently?

   

Or is trying to find a logo to inset into a wooden scale over doing it?

[Outback in Idaho]

For the pin, having a recent issue with the pin getting caught on the corkscrew, had come up with the idea of putting a small magnet into the handle. This would also help keep the pin magnetized & held into place since my Climber has aluminum scales.

Debating between these two, unless someone else has another option. Have tried the flexible magnet inside the current plastic scale and it just does not do a thing. Not enough magnetic power there.

15 PC Neodymium Magnets N42 Dia 2X2mm Rare Earth NdFeB Magnets



50 Pieces N42 Neodymium Magnets Dia 3mm x 1.5mm Thick


Comments, suggestions, or... ?

[lowtech]

Regarding the Vic Logo pins, I dare say they will be too big for the scales, the backside clips are typically somewhere between 12-15 mm (roughly 1/2 inch) and are totally covered by the pin.

Maybe you can take out the inlaid logo of soem Cellidor scales or cut out the hot stamped logo of a set of scales and lay that in.

[Outback in Idaho]

Regarding the Vic Logo pins, I dare say they will be too big for the scales, the backside clips are typically somewhere between 12-15 mm (roughly 1/2 inch) and are totally covered by the pin.

Maybe you can take out the inlaid logo of some Cellidor scales or cut out the hot stamped logo of a set of scales and lay that in.

Will look around. Don't really need a logo. Don't have anything that small that looks good. Have committed with the wood. Can always add a logo some other time.

Wonder if Victorinox had the idea of hiding a small sharpening slip-stone into that scale recess?

[PTRSAK]

Talking of logos for wooden scales...
This is a bit of an experiment testing a couple of things. Firstly to see how an "Ivory" cross inlayed into the wood looks and how easy the Tagua nut "vegetable ivory" is to work with and how well it wears.
I will finish these to fit a Recruit and give it a bit of pocket time with flashlight, keys and change for company.

I think it will look pretty schmick myself.

[Wootz]

I like it 

Bone and copper cross:

[Northern Geek]

Talking of logos for wooden scales...
This is a bit of an experiment testing a couple of things. Firstly to see how an "Ivory" cross inlayed into the wood looks and how easy the Tagua nut "vegetable ivory" is to work with and how well it wears.
I will finish these to fit a Recruit and give it a bit of pocket time with flashlight, keys and change for company.

I think it will look pretty schmick myself.

(Image removed from quote.)

That ought to look very nice when it's fitted!

[Outback in Idaho]

Should hit up Home Depot for a coping saw. Next probably a sealer & varnish, or just use the varnish to seal the wood pores as I'm working with it. Wished was a hobby shop around here to where I could purchase small containers. Then have to figure out what glue or epoxy to use.

Just dawned on me that I forgot to order a pen, lol. Placed a small order with Swiss Knife Shop, and had to add a few smaller items to help meet the minimum order for the free first class shipping. Never ordered with them before. The Boise store where I got the Climber from had no pens...
Amazon's prices were double of what Swiss Knife Shop was on the pen part. $6.25 for a pen?? 

[Outback in Idaho]

Talking of logos for wooden scales...
This is a bit of an experiment testing a couple of things. Firstly to see how an "Ivory" cross inlayed into the wood looks and how easy the Tagua nut "vegetable ivory" is to work with and how well it wears.
I will finish these to fit a Recruit and give it a bit of pocket time with flashlight, keys and change for company.

I think it will look pretty schmick myself.

Impressive. Dare I ask how you put the inlay in?

[PTRSAK]

I cut the cross out of the slice of Tagua nut Ivory and then trace it on the wood. Then using Dremel and hobby knife I cut the recess about 1/2 way through the wood. The cross is a loose fit at this stage. I mix up a glue from Epoxy resin and sanding dust from scraps of the wood and use this to glue the cross in. The "glue" has a colour and texture similar to the wood and once sanded flush there is no gap around the edge of the cross.

As I said, this one is an experiment so it's only about 90% on the care and attention to detail, but I have never been one to polish a prototype.

[Outback in Idaho]

I cut the cross out of the slice of Tagua nut Ivory and then trace it on the wood. Then using Dremel and hobby knife I cut the recess about 1/2 way through the wood. The cross is a loose fit at this stage. I mix up a glue from Epoxy resin and sanding dust from scraps of the wood and use this to glue the cross in. The "glue" has a colour and texture similar to the wood and once sanded flush there is no gap around the edge of the cross.

As I said, this one is an experiment so it's only about 90% on the care and attention to detail, but I have never been one to polish a prototype.

Aye, have used that technique as a kid when making boomerangs. Something learned in shop class, to mix the sawdust you are using with Elmer's glue. Gives it color, bond, and allows sealing as the wood fibers are porous. 


Not to side-track the topic, had this experimental (one time only) formica triangle boomerang idea where I had used sawdust and Super Glue as filler. Needed to put in angles to turn the boomerang (gyroscopic procession). Formica was so thin there was nothing to work with.
Also used aluminum rivets at each bind point as glue wasn't holding. Contact cement was the best to stick the formica pieces together but was no where sturdy for the forces induced by the flight properties of a boomerang. Super Glue stuck to anything.  Fingers too!
It worked out, but the flight path was so erratic only its creator (me) was able to figure it out.
(Attached (ugly) photo)

Later on in life, Herb A. Smith of Sussex, England, had used Paxolin material to break the world's distance record. Once word got out what he was using Volker Behrens and Al Gerhards started using it. Stuff was too expensive for me to ship some in. Gosh, how I'd luv to find a supplier - but it probably way too expensive to buy & ship.

I flew one of Herb's Torando's out over a 140 acre field, across the 6 lane freeway, and it still continued across the field on the other side before it ever lifted high into the sky. Trust me, I was sweating it the first throw. Had to lay it way over where you do not normally release a boomerang at - without severe consequences.
It roses to unimaginable height, about lost it in the afternoon sun. By the time my eyes adjusted it landed to the left of me four feet away! Glad it didn't hit me. 
Could only fly it a few times before my shoulder felt like it was going to fall off. I really leaned into it. Fun times, will attach that one as well. Have 1 of 2 remaining. Someone stole my other. /grr

Fun times. Bought my first boomerang from Richard Harrison, The Boomerang Man, when he was in Monroe, Louisiana. First one was a Wycheproof (Australian), made by Bunny read. Handsome and attractive wood with Aussie motifs on the elbow. Great for display purposes.
Later on bought a special run of Lorin Hawe's M-17 in Coachwood & another in Silky Oak. The silky oak one was by far my favorite, and thus why I wanted it for the handles/scales of my first Victorinox knife.

If it turns out good, as never made these before, then any subsequent Vic knives might be fashioned from this wood.


Also ordered some 1.5mm x 3mm flat-round neodymium magnets to put into the scales. Figure one to hold & touch the pin. Keep it held in there since the layer is aluminum, and also to keep it magnetized - if I ever need it. Figure would also put in two to hold the writing pen in, and maybe another for the tweezers.
The magnets are coming in a lot of 50, so I should have plenty! 


Had figured you would have undercut the insignia into the wood with an exacto blade or scalpel. I have nothing that looks ivory or other wood to use - and no I'm not going to sabotage my boomerangs. Maybe I can get some down the road to add in later.

Thanks for the update. And I apologize for being windy again. 


Edit: Correcting spelling errors. Spell checker is being lazy.

[PTRSAK]

This is what I bought,  http://www.ebay.com/itm/130835306097?

Enough there to make a dozen or more crosses. The red dye just sands off, only on the surface.

[Outback in Idaho]

This is what I bought,  http://www.ebay.com/itm/130835306097?

Enough there to make a dozen or more crosses. The red dye just sands off, only on the surface.

Awesome. Just ordered some. My cc is hating me about now. 
Free shipping though.

• Exotic Australian Wood
• Pen, pin, & spare toothpick to quality for free shipping from Swiss Knife Shop. Was cheaper than Amazon!
• 1.5 H x 3mm W neodymium magnets (50)
• Ivory Nut Shells

Still going to need to get some sort of glue or epoxy (any recommendations?), coping saw, sandpaper, ect.

When I kick the bucket someone's going to have fun with that Climber


But, you know, when I was searching for a 1961 six pence Australian coin that went MIA ran across a rather useful tool. A valve core tool. Then made me wonder if that hidden slot was big enough to fit in a flat valve core tool. Probably not.

Not seen a valve core tool on any multitool or even a hex/flat-hex bit valve core driver. Had thought E510 had fashioned a bit once... 

Just about every vehicle still uses valve cores. They do get loose at times, and bicycles still use them - **hisses** at Schrader valves!

[PTRSAK]

Talking of logos for wooden scales...
This is a bit of an experiment testing a couple of things. Firstly to see how an "Ivory" cross inlayed into the wood looks and how easy the Tagua nut "vegetable ivory" is to work with and how well it wears.
I will finish these to fit a Recruit and give it a bit of pocket time with flashlight, keys and change for company.

I think it will look pretty schmick myself.

(Image removed from quote.)