Wanted: Detailed Diagram of the 91mm Plus Scales

[Wootz]

Not sure if it is to any use right now, but I glue the scales on very rough shaped. Don't bother getting the outer shape exact at this point. Just the rivet holes need to be precise. I'm leaving 1 or 2 mm wood around the edges and plenty thick. Once the epoxy is set start shaping the scales from coarse to fine. I do leave the T&T out, making it an even simpler job.

[Outback in Idaho]

Not sure if it is to any use right now, but I glue the scales on very rough shaped. Don't bother getting the outer shape exact at this point. Just the rivet holes need to be precise. I'm leaving 1 or 2 mm wood around the edges and plenty thick. Once the epoxy is set start shaping the scales from coarse to fine. I do leave the T&T out, making it an even simpler job.

  Your idea helped. Also one fellow at Home Depot suggested the idea I had in mind to use, was to cut what was needed first the size it down.

  Had set the holes, whacked the raw scales in with a light-weight rubber mallet, shaped them from a raw 11mm blank. Added channels to fit the scale tools, got them within tolerance.
  Looked around the tool, decided on 7mm thickness. Cut small sections with a coping saw, and a my Charge TTi's S30v blade for slicing the sections off from the end to the other. Shaped it down with a Dremel sand roller.
  Mounted them on the Climber again, decided to take the middle down to 6mm, giving a small flat face on the side. Sanded down that down, filled some holes. Waiting for them to cure in before I proceed further.

  Been using the small driver on a Squirt S4 as a chisel to cut square holes for the magnets. Then have to epoxy them in. Haven't put the pin in yet.

  Was thinking of heating another pin and pressure burn a hole through into the wood. Not sure how this will work. Cutting a thin pin channel on the other scales was iffy. If there is the slightest gap between the scale & knife the pin just will not doesn't cooperate.
  Could cut a deeper channel, then glue a toothpick or sliver of scrap wood over the back & sand it down. This reverse frame idea might work better. Least it looks good on paper. 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Something I was thinking about. Keep seeing these branches/trunks of wood with their bark still attached to furniture, cabinets, even house trim. The knots, limbs, and other imperfections are only cut off. They are shaped to remove rough edges, looking like either a clean slice with rounded corners or chopped segments.

  People buy this rustic look. Why not get some limbs and make rustic wood knife handles too? Am sure someone's already down that to other fixed knives, but not seen a SAK handle like that yet. Would definitely make for a unique look - maybe for display or gift.

[Wootz]

You want a comfortable grip, no limbs sticking out for me.

[Outback in Idaho]

You want a comfortable grip, no limbs sticking out for me.

  Oh, I agree. Get a load of these bed posts. /shakes head

 


  Cut a pin groove, flipped a blade over on the spine, skived that out slowly. Wished could somehow secure the pin to staying in the groove I cut for it. Put a magnet, north facing towards the pin, and have it setting up in the clamp.
  Have a magnet in the tweezers, and another at the head of the pen channel. They are tiny lil' rascals and are only powerful at close proximity. So they have to be touching or close to hold any metal in the grooves.

  Was crazy, the first scales I made are at 4mm and are waiting for the tung oil to arrive. The third set is at 6mm, and gluing magnets in and touching up some areas.

  Not sure what else to use to seal the wood. Tried mixing the gel epoxy, but that stuff doesn't come out of the tubes evenly. Was no individual epoxy tubes available. All were the double-chambered one-piece syringes. One comes out easy and too much, the other sits there then comes out at once - in small amount. Cut it with nail polish remover (acetone). It is still drying.
  Our area seriously lack a hobby & craft shop.

 
  Picked up this Locktite Gel epoxy for what it bonds to. 6 minute setup though. 
 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Hate mixing epoxy. Rarely do I actually get the right mixture to where it sets up like it should. Have a sealant layer on the 3rd set of scales. Had to redo the sealant mixture on the 1st set as the epoxy was still tacky after 8 hours.

  Note: Looks like it is setting up. :whew:


  The 1st set is ready for the tung oil, and the 2nd will be ready if this sealant mixture sets up.

  Black spots are the teeny neodymium magnets. May have to add a secondary south-touching magnet for the pin groove since was unable to burn a straight groove through the wood, and that testing is showing the pin wants to launch upwards. If there's a slight gap between the scale and the knife, that will cause issues. Better to get it right the first time.

  3rd set of scales is 6mm.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Now I haven't used tung oil in ages. 

  Guess the Tung oil application is going to take days, or a week. 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Read an interesting article on oil finishes, and how various finished came about, were blended, other forms that came into play, and label trickery. Oil Finishes: Their History and Use

  It is a very good read. 

[Wootz]

There's much to discover on this board, grasshopper.   

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,42415.0.html

[Outback in Idaho]

  Scales look good to go. Had a few minor finishing repairs, mostly to the sidewall of the mounting hole that lies between the toothpick & pen grooves. Applied two thin coats of epoxy thinned down with rubbing alcohol to seal the wood. Removed the epoxy from the mounting holes before it fully cured.


  Hoping I can get an equal amount of epoxy mix to mount the scales on. Which color/half of the epoxy should get the most of, since they do not always come out equally: white or the colored-yellow gel? Doesn't say which one is the hardener. Don't want a runny mix. 

  In the past, many many years ago, had mixed a tad more hardener to get a firmer grip. So do not like mixing as if not enough of one or the other then it never hardens. Should of looked elsewhere and picked up separate tubes instead of a syringe container.



  Should I epoxy the scales on first, or does it matter if I oil them up before application? Reason why I ask is the first coat of oil is suggested to keep applying till the wood soaks up all it can hold. Then buff out the risen wood particles and dried finish before applying a second coat. Was told this could take up to five subsequent thin coats to get the maximum benefit from the Tung oil.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Both sets 1 & 3 are ready for the finishing process. First set on the Spartan is at 4mm, 3rd set on the Climber at 6mm. 

  Corkscrew side
 


  Awl side
 


  Edit: The texture on my very first set looks terrific! Am anxious to see how the Tung oil will look on them. 

[Outback in Idaho]

  In the dunny (great place to multitask at) looking at the transparent blue sapphire scales of my Climber, and how I had abused them in such a short time. Looked at the plain scale and noticed that Victorinox had polished their name on the inside, left most everything else dulled down.
  Looked at a recess of a possible button area, a + area, and then a tiny bit of shiny caught the light. Pulled out the short blade, and looky at what I got!

  Looks like I get to add a small metal Victorinox shield logo in my knife handle now. 

  Too bad it is so thin. Thought it might make for a neat wood burning emblem maker. Only soldering iron I have is a portable butane one with a catalyst chamber. A Rat Shack version.

  So I got a little surprise this evening. The one time wishing I had a small exact-o knife set. 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Sharpened up the Leatherman Squirt blade. Centered the logo width wise, eyeballed the position. Holding it down with a finger, traced a light pencil line around it. Carved the area down some. Sanded in the middle somewhat. Checked the fitting again.

  Mixed up some epoxy, and put it in the recessed cavity. Set the logo inside, then added just a thin layer of more epoxy. Checked it again to be sure not sticking up anywhere. Pressed down on major points with a straight pin.

  Looks good. Letting it dry. Tung oil will saturate behind the wood, so should still be good there. This is going to be one sexy SAK scale!   


Edit:  After the epoxy set to a hold state, yet still flexible, went and trimmed off the excess epoxy with a small knife. Sanded the area around the epoxy setting. Might of set it in a tad deeper than needed, but I'm not a youngster with eagle eyes and the hands of a surgeon - and I'm working with tools.

[Outback in Idaho]

  The 2 oz. bottle of 100% Tung came in from Amazon / Lombardi's Woodworking today. 

  Got a good coat on the Spartan I got from Lowtech. Rubbed it in good, then wiped off after about 30 minutes per the instructions on the bottle. Smells almost like popcorn, even made me hungry working it in.

  Rubbed a light layer on the insides of my Climber's scales. They will set for 24+ hours before I epoxy them on. Wanted to get some oil in the groove channels before gluing them on. Am anxious to get the scales on and oiled in.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Was waiting for some walnut scales to come in before epoxying the last set of Australian Silky Oak on.

  With the weather being the way it is, couldn't wait much longer. One scale developed a workable warp and the other had a noticeable gap. Filed them down and went ahead and epoxied them the scales on. They are clamped in and drying between two cedar wood scraps & a sock.

  More solid wood scales would not have such a tendency to warp as compared to scales that are channeled out for tools. The more wood removed the easier a warp can set in.
  We had fair weather, then it turned more humid with the rain. And a strong the cold front is coming in. So rather than deal with warps it was time to get them epoxied and and oiled up.

  After setting the scales on, gave them and even clamping all around. Oiled up the scale tools I had made channels for (pin, pen, toothpick, & tweezers) with a Teflon based lubricant. Ran them in and out a few times, wiped them off, and inserted the tool back into the scales.
  In case some epoxy got squeezed out the tools would be safe from being stuck. In turn the tools are also inside to help keep any epoxy at bay.


  The first set of scales got their second coat of Tung oil this evening. They feel as smooth as silk too. 

 

  May have to pick up a Spartan, or a used SAK, to fit the walnut scales coming in from Woodman. I waited, but the weather forced my hand.

[enki_ck]

Nice progress pics.

[Outback in Idaho]

Nice progress pics.

  Figured my notes, good and/or bad, might help others.
    Y'all were of immense help too, and I won't forget that. 
      If I could afford it, would buy everyone a pizza and a 6 pack of Foster's oil cans for their help.

  Perhaps once I get this process down better, find a good user SAK, will have a contest for those that offered their help their help. Would help make up for being such a pest.     As it stands now my work and ideas are amateurist at best. Have learned a lot, but I want to make it right - and done right.

  Biggest issue I have is the accurate placement of the pin holes. Want to get some liners or solid template.


  Another idea I had was to glue layer a thin (0.5 mm) composite material on the underside before ever touching the underside. This is to alleviate the scooping that occurs when filing & sanding.

[Outback in Idaho]

  These sets of scales fit on really well. Had to do some minor fitting around the edges. None of the channel grooves had issues, Thank God. More light sanding, that in turn dulled the clear Vic logo (epoxied) window inlay. Wished the logo inlay would have come out better. Oh well.

  Got the first coat in on these, lets them soak in till the oil started to turn, then wiped it off. For some reason the thinner scales felt better after their first application. These felt more rough textured. Might been due to more oil being soaked up.

  One other thing I have noticed since owning SAK is that I barely have any useable finger & thumb nails. Chipped my right hand's thumb nails again fanning the blades for the photographs.


  Side by Side
  • Photos are of different sizes. Was looking for ambiance not comparative size.



  Edge to Edge
  • To show the 6mm layers. More beefier. 


 
  Light Play effects
  • Each side differs in looks as Australian Silky Oak grain grows in two different directions at once.










 
  Enjoy!


  End Notes:
  • Looks like one scale is a tad thicker. Hmm.     
  •  Oh, and the small round spots on the scales was where I drilled a bit too deep and sanded down over said holes. Mixed some glue with sawdust to fill these holes. Will have to consider getting a Dremel Workstation for drilling more accurately. /sigh
  • This was my personal knife so near perfection was not needed.
  • My first set actually turned out better me thinks.    But the scale tools hide & fit better on these. Maybe 4.5mm to 5mm is what to shoot for in thickness?

[Outback in Idaho]

  WoodMan's laser cut walnut scales arrived today. Figured right after I glued mine on they would get here. Will have to go find a SAK somewhere to put these on to tease the forum with. 

[PTRSAK]

more timber fromm the same supplier...  Brown Mallee Burl

I am seriously looking forward to getting a SAK scaled in this.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Am considering ordering more silky oak, as I want a pair of chopsticks out of that wood. And want to use tung oil to finish them. Favorite pair of chopsticks is 9.5" long, Thai style in rosewood, tapered down to 3mm.   Only thing is I have no wood lathe/turner.

  Have a few sets, but when they taper to 4+ mm that is too thick and awkward for me to use. Feels like I am using pencils (eraser end) for eating utensils.


  Top is my favorite set. Below them are backups with an ornate twist carving.
 

more timber fromm the same supplier...  Brown Mallee Burl

I am seriously looking forward to getting a SAK scaled in this.

(Image removed from quote.)

  Interesting wood. Wonder how Zebra wood is? Seems to me when carving the edge it really brings out the wood effects more.

  Saw an outfit here in the states with several wood samples perfect for SAK scales, but the way they had cut the wood left a lot to be desired. Was more like a package of 'Oops cuts'.

  Turning Timbers seems to know how to cut the wood the correct way! 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Australian Turning Timbers has some attractive blanks up again.  If only had more money to work with, and a shop. Might have to wait till Spring so can carve outside.


  Coolabah Burl


  Birdseye Red Gum



  African Wenge


  Brush Box



  Fiddleback Queensland Narrow Leaf Wattle - Am liking this one! 



  Lots more.

[Outback in Idaho]

  Heh, now I want to carve a small eating spoon from wood. Shouldn't be too hard, right? 

[Outback in Idaho]

  Had to, was my post anyhow.

  Now if I could remember where I put the first SAK post where the forum helped me for the most part, and I decided on a Climber.

[zoidberg]

 

[jaya_man]

For the pin, having a recent issue with the pin getting caught on the corkscrew, had come up with the idea of putting a small magnet into the handle. This would also help keep the pin magnetized & held into place since my Climber has aluminum scales.

Debating between these two, unless someone else has another option. Have tried the flexible magnet inside the current plastic scale and it just does not do a thing. Not enough magnetic power there.

15 PC Neodymium Magnets N42 Dia 2X2mm Rare Earth NdFeB Magnets
(Image removed from quote.)


50 Pieces N42 Neodymium Magnets Dia 3mm x 1.5mm Thick
(Image removed from quote.)

Comments, suggestions, or... ?

I know this post had been out for a while now, but I had just come across this. Not to sure If it has been answered as well.

A friend of mine suggested if the straight pin comes loose, try applying a bit of silicone sealant in the hole. So I tried and walah, mo more loose straight pins...




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[Outback in Idaho]

  The idea of the magnets was to a polarity on the needle so it would point north if ever needed. The magnets were a dickens to get in there and aligned.

  As much effort I went through to get the needle aligned North and South something changed... the North end was supposed to be the pointed end. I quadruple checked and verified the magnet placement was correct. But... when I tested it, the head of the pin became North, not the prickly end. Not sure what changed its polarity there.
  The pin doesn't slide out on its own, one needs to use their fingernail.

[jaya_man]

  The idea of the magnets was to a polarity on the needle so it would point north if ever needed. The magnets were a dickens to get in there and aligned.

  As much effort I went through to get the needle aligned North and South something changed... the North end was supposed to be the pointed end. I quadruple checked and verified the magnet placement was correct. But... when I tested it, the head of the pin became North, not the prickly end. Not sure what changed its polarity there.
  The pin doesn't slide out on its own, one needs to use their fingernail.

Ah... Interesting...


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[Outback in Idaho]

  If I had it to do all over again, I'd just get some silky oak blanks cut like what WoodMan did, then cut the slots out by hand or something, and epoxy it back on and forego the magnets. I don't have the materials to cut scales, but I can order the wood from Australia or over here in the USA. Could have to get another Vic emblem too and try a different method of securing it in there.

  Might give it a go some day - or not.

[maxoom]

Hi, new to this site. maybe I can help out with ANY CAD files you need. I'm a Mechanical Designer (Engineer). I have exceptional knowledge in Solidworks and Pro Engineer (Creo). If someone has a good DXF or DWG file or can give me some dimensions I can model a 3D of the scales or whatever you want. Otherwise I will have to try and take apart a knife and measure the crap out of it.