Factory blade sharpening angle? (When touching up LM and SAK)

[Maxintheuk]

Hi guys, I have a Laskey basic 4 rod box with the 20 deg and 25 deg angles.  I've used it on older knives but when touching up newer LM and SAKs' knives what is the best angle to use - should I adjust it by raising it slightly?  Just want to be sure I am not re-profiling the original angles...

[J Mackrel Jones]

Victorinox says to go at 20 degrees for their Swiss Army knives.

[Steinar]

Factory angle for the Vics are 15 degrees. As for touch-up, as J Mackrel Jones, Vic says anything from 15 to 20.

http://www.victorinox.com/ch/content/care_preservation_SAK_page/category/1

Boils down to your preferences as habits, really, but the original angle for a SAK is 15 degrees on each side (for a total of 30 degrees). I have no idea what Leatherman or Wenger uses.

[Smashie]

I re-profile my SKAKs and LM's to 20 degrees, I find that works for me

[Maxintheuk]

Thanks chaps, I had started out with the 25deg setting and wondered why I was getting nowhere, switching to the 20 deg is working much better.

[SwissArmy Zippo]

I use a spyderco sharp maker 40° side razor sharp results. Pictured is a Leathetman Wave but I get same results with my SAK's.

[Sparky415]

Hi Max
Have you tried the ‘sharpie’ trick when you are sharpening?

You colour in the cutting edge with a felt tip so you can see where the stone is touching the blade, I find a good light and a magnifying glass helps me a lot as well 

 

[Maxintheuk]

Hi, yes, plan to try that - I've only used it on a Micra or two and smaller SAK at present but it works well.   

[Wootz]

Hi Max
Have you tried the ‘sharpie’ trick when you are sharpening?

You colour in the cutting edge with a felt tip so you can see where the stone is touching the blade, I find a good light and a magnifying glass helps me a lot as well 

 

+1

I was going to say that 

[AimlessWanderer]

Here's my thoughts on factory edges .... ignore them!

If using a Lansky the blade isn't always held square or sometimes rocks a little. This will vary the edge angle by a couple of degrees. On a blade with a heavy taper from edge to spine, the guide arms that take the rods will be further out of line, varying the angle more. Further variation will be had depending on how far forward of the clamp the edge is. Bottom line is you can pretty much take whatever angle Lansky says you are sharpening at with a very large pinch of salt.

If you specifically want to maintain as close to original edge as possible - use the mousemat and Wet & Dry stropping technique and leave the Lansky in the drawer ... otherwise, ignore what the factory did and put an edge on that suits your use. Not fine enough a cut? Set a more acute angle. Edge not lasting? Set a more obtuse angle. Keep sharpening till it's sharp ... and as soon as it's sharp - stop!

Just my tuppence 

[Cupboard]

^^that.

And you don't need to start out right at the coarsest each time either unless you take a chunk out of the blade (which is why I bought my Lansky to start with).

FWIW, I use the coarsest angle for my SAK and the next most coarsest with my LM. Any finer and it rolls the edge too easily. Where is it at the moment, if I'm a chump it will still roll but you have to be a bit silly. Like trying to see how tough the steel lining in the sole of a pair of boots is...

[smiller43147]

I use a spyderco sharp maker 40° side razor sharp results. Pictured is a Leathetman Wave but I get same results with my SAK's.

I second that.  Use the sharp maker and let it manage the angle.