Project done, take a look. Pic heavy!!!

[Fattsgalore]

I'll start by saying this wont just be a pick heavy thread but text/my thoughts heavy as well.
So prepare to be bored... You've been warned. I also want to thank this forum and especially Gareth DIY SAK mod topic. This is what gave me the confidence to do this project in the first place... THANK YOU!!!

These unfortunate three were my guinea pigs. T 2 B; Timekeeper minus watch scale, Timekeeper Alarm and Traveller... Should have had cheaper taste in my project SAKs.   

Step 1, disassembly.
Easy peazy... Sort of.



Finding 2.5mm or 2.2mm bits just wasn't happening. So I used a 3/32 bit (2.38mm) and 5/64 bit (1.98mm), as well as a Tungsten carbide cutter. You have to make a big enough cavity in the peen'd portion to where the sides collapse in as you knock them out. The bits weren't big enough so I used the cutter to widen the cavity.
No punch was used I just pressed the bit down and feathered the trigger to do a few super slow revolutions. Once I got a nice indent I give it some gas.

I didn't remove enough material in the one of the pin heads, had to file.


Thank you Master Craftsman!!!
No vise, clamps, or grips were used. Don't own any and in fact these early pics were taken at a friends who had a work table for me to use. I disassembled two of the knife at my friends and did everything else at home. Where I have even less space and tools

But to be honest, other than what is needed to remove the pins and form new ones, you won't need anything else.
So technically all the tools you need are; medium to small hammer (does not have to be ball peen), drill bits, sand paper, a metal file and a few beers...
Beer is optional...not really.

More to come... 

 
 

[Cupboard]

is that a Go board?

[Gareth]

Looking forward to the next instalment.

[Fattsgalore]

No, its just the work table.

After the tear down I stared at the pieces while thinking to my self. What have you done!!!
Later the initial shock wore off... Took a week. Why? Cause that's how long it took for my brass to arrive.

Disassembly was easy peazy...sort of. Reassembly was like my SAK learned to talk and all it said to me was "$@%# you!!!"

Step 2, forming pins... Or as I lie to call it, hell!
SAKs are assembled using 2.5mm and 2.25mm brass round rod. If you can't find what you need the only alternative it get the closest thing then file and sand it down to the desired dimensions.

This took forever. At first I only used sand paper (medium and 600 grit) but after awhile I grabbed the metal file.
My wonderful assistant Master Craftsman made a second appearance. 
Spent close to an hour making maybe 3" worth of usable rod. *sigh*
This was a labor of love plain and simple

Short of a hammer, a power drill, and a few drivers I own nothing. To peen properly in most cases you need a vice or something to firmly grip the material. If not you may bend a pin , or worse you spend hours hammering away with little progress.
I did both... These images will not be scaled down, I want you to see this as detailed as possible.

The reason my thumb is grey is that's where the hammer kept striking it. I wised up and moved onto this.

Wasn't much better, every time you hit it it bounces on the plate and the force needed for peening just isn't applied properly. Each pin took nearly an hour. AN HOUR!!!! PER PIN!!! One side.
Then I learned this. HOURS LATER!!!

I'll reiterate, This was a labor of love plain and simple
I drop in a piece of brass that's slightly longer than the depth of the drill head, it bottoms out and I tighten the drill slightly. To much and the drill bites the brass leaving tool marks. This head formed in like 4 minutes... Had to learn the hard way.

Does this mean I'll be buying a vise? No. Next time i'll assemble the knife peen one entire side, flip it over, then trim and file that side and finish off with some peening.
It's what I should have done in the first place! I learned... I always do.


More in the morn. Almost done, promise...

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Great thread mate

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[jrp316]

Here's a tip for you: make up an assembly board (I use a 99 cent plastic cutting board). Take a liner from your knife, lay it on the board and drill correspondingly sized holes in the board. Install the pins and assemble the knife as you normally would. When you get done, cut the pins to length on top and lay that part of the board across your anvil, then peen them. The trade off is a waste of a bit of pin stock, but IMHO it's worth it in terms of ease of assembly.

In terms of peening, you need two essential bits: a ball peen hammer and a good anvil. It doesn't appear that you have either. The claw hammer would work, but you might find that with a proper anvil, it's too heavy for what you need. A 4 oz to 8 oz ball peen would be ideal. As for an anvil, think heavy, thick, steel. Got a sledge hammer? A bench block from a hobby store works well too.

[Fattsgalore]

Thanks all.
Purchasing anything else for the hobby really isn't feasible at this moment. Spent money I wasn't suppose to just to get the project going.
An assembly table/board sounds nice, it'll keep from piecing it together only to pick it up and have pins fall out. Would save time and a whole lot of frustration. I do have a 2x4 that can be made to fit my needs I think.
I did move onto something other than that metal plate that worked loads better.
I'll get to that...

Another step, that happened before step 2 (that wont be counted as a step) will be deciding what to put together. With a table covered in pieces laid before me the possibilities were vast.
The main tool set was going to be the Timekeeper's; blade, scissors, combo tool, as well as retaining the internal liner.
From the Timekeeper Alarm I snagged the front and back liner along with the phillips.

Which left me with my hybrid SAK and parts left over to make a Spartan if i so well as choose too... I will.


Now is where the Trvaveller comes into play, besides donating it's fancy electronic scales, the Traveller is essentially a Climber, with fancy scales, and one variation.
The parcel hook has the nail file. My TK's did not. So I did the old swicth-a-roo. Is the hook with file really needed? No, but why not have it? ,
I will have to admit the whole package (phiilips&hook) looks clean in comparison to the hook and corkscrew.

I'll post step 3ish later, it has nearly no photos. By that time in the project (nearly 8 hours in) I wasn't in the mood for anything other than finishing up.

[kirk13]

 

[Fattsgalore]

Step 3 should be reassemble, but nooo.
Step 3, cut a hole in the front scale.

The electronic scales have lots of doohickies (that's a technical term) that protrude down into the actual liner. The front liners on these models are actually thicker than a standard liner. They have to be since material is removed to make way for the doohickies, they cut them with jets of water I believe. Both the added thickness and the method in which the holes are cut is to insure structural integrity.

Glad I'm not Victorinox cause all I got is a tungsten carbide cutter and some 3 in 1. Don't cut or drill metal without lubricant IMO.
Even with my minimalist approach.
When using a cutter or grinder make sure what ever your cutting/grinding is secure or heavy enough to weight it's self down... Always!
But I didn't... Again. The Timekeeper was more dangerous though. The blade and scissors were out, turning the rotary tool into the "Pinwheel of imminent bodily harm danger and doom", I pretty much covered my genitals with my free hand turned my face away and hoped for the best. 
It worked out... and so did this.
Traveller top Timekeeper Alarm liner bottom
With my first mod all the cutting/grinding was done with the SAK assembled, dug into the back spring pretty good. (accidently) This time was easier and safer with the liner removed.

Not pretty, but it'll do.

The top hole is for part of the switch, the bottom of which looks like a brass or copper plate. (wish I knew more) The square is for a portion of the motherboard that sticks out, and the smaller circle is to let air access the thermometer/barometer/altimeter. On the electronic watch only scales the smaller circle isn't present.

The Altimeters or maybe just earlier models had a different switch. Underneath it was a convex indent in the liner instead of the cut out. My guess is they used a switch similar to what if found on the Sig. Lite's LED motherboard and later on moved to the one with the copper/brass plate. Again, wish I knew more.


I would finish up but believe it or not, I still haven't photographed the finished product.
Step 4 and the finale in the AM Eastarn standard time... U.S.
Be there or be square... Or whenever.
This is the internet look at it at your own leisure. 

[Thunderpants]

Wowzers, I had flashbacks there of when I sliced the middle of my middle finger open in school. Powertools in the workshop, thin pieces of aluminium not kept in place by anything except dauntless fingers - then a lot of blood and five or six stitches. Them were the days!

I got a fantastic scar out of it. No idea what I was trying to build though. Probably an aeroplane...

Oh well! Good luck with your knife, you're braver than I am!

[Fattsgalore]

Step 4, reassembly.

Step 4 wasn't the longest or hardest, but it was the most discouraging. By this time I'm 7+ hours in frustrated as all hell and seriously tired. Till it was completed I wasn't sure it would ever be completed. (confidence had bottomed out when my beer did)

Before I start piecing anything together I needed to get the orientation of everything. There is a top and bottom there is a front and back. Everything doesn't go back together like Legos. (trademark)
After you knock those pins out tools just start sliding out, (i know i know, vise) so no layer by layer photo shoot. No detailed schematics.
What helped was some SAK porn...not to relieve stress or ease the time. A pic of the tool assembled is more than enough to get it back together.

With orientation clear in my mind I mounted the bushings around the pins and started feeding brass through the corresponding holes. (I now add the bushings only before I trim the pins and peen) 3 of the four pins have bushings they are what the scales attach to. No bushings, no handles. So don't loose them. (dropped every 30 seconds)
2.5 outer two, 2.25 inner two

I oriented the tools and then lowered in the spring. Don't push it into place apply the next liner than try to jimmy everything together. If you try snapping everything together without the liner you may get a bent pin. The back pin is crucial it's where you get all of the tension. No back pin, no snap. Bent the one on my left over Spartan, awl slightly rattles when open.
I man handled everything together cause I did't have a small flat head driver. This step took forever as well and as JRP mentioned an assembly board or table would help vastly.

I also unfortunately learned newer hooks and older hooks have slight different tangs. The hook w/file in my (well I haven't named it yet) locks open crooked, which actually is great cause it lends it's self to another project I had in mind. Parcel hook into package opener!!! The TK hook in the Traveller on the other hand is stiff and nail catch is a bit harder to access.

I didn't photograph assembly, it was all hand on. Sorry...

At this point I actually went to sleep and finished in the morning...Which is what I'll do with this topic.







   

[Thunderpants]

Can't wait to see the end result!

[Ross]

Loving this post and is actually getting me going to put back together my huntsman that did not get the TLC it deserves.

looking forward to the rest

[colt 1911]

  Wake up, lets go already !

[Gareth]

"Pinwheel of imminent bodily harm danger and doom"

Great write-up so far mate.  Keep it up.

[AlephZero]

Great work so far and good write-up (bookmarking for reference for when I'll try my first mod:))

[Fattsgalore]

Thanks for the support guys. Means a bunch.
@thunderpants, they say love hurts and it seems so does learning.
@ross, if this motivates you to do anything...anything. Thank you. That's beyond a compliment and actually why I posted this in the first place. This topic is to help and hopefully inspire someone else to try.
@gareth, if I do something to motivate someone else, it was thanks to you helping me. Thank you.

P.S. sorry about the poor grammar spelling and sentence structure... American schools ain't what they use to be.
(step 4 continued...)
So I passed out for like 3 1/2 hours, waking up saying the name "Carson Daily", why? I couldn't remember his name from two nights before and my brain was on super delay. I kicked my feet out from under the covers and they landed in front of the tray table I'd been working on from the night before next to my bed. I reached over to my lamp turned the switch and grabbed the knife and hammer before my eyes had even adjusted.

It was time!!!
I picked my snips off my floor and went at it, snipping then filing. I had found a larger hammer before passing out, which I used as an anvil instead of the metal plate. This worked much better and didn't bounce around. I probably peen'd more material than I had to, but with the electronic scales it doesn't matter if there is excess material above the bushing the well for the bushing is deeper then a normal scale.
 
The peening and filing (didn't care I was getting filings on my carpet) went by quick. I have since completed my second SAK my Spartan and my peenig technique changed on the second one. (describe in epilogue... yeah I said epilogue.  )

Anyway, I hammered at a steady rhythm. (new peening technique has me in and out in a few strikes)
And really didn't check the action till it was to late... but it was perfect!... Except for the parcel hook.
I marveled at the completed knife working the actions over and over. I walked around in a daze (mainly from sleep deprivation) while holding the the knife up to the light shining in through a bay window. It was sort of like the seen where the monkey holds up Simba in "The Lion Book" (copyright) minus all the animals and splender...


I was almost afraid to attach the scales at first. I was waiting for something to bind or bend or break or anything...didn't happen.
When I was confident it was reassembled correctly I fetched the scales from a box inside my re-appropriated jewelry chest. Popped in the Cr1225 battery (they are a pain to get) before install to make sure the electronic scale was still working. (removing those scales is no joke, nowhere near the flex of standard scales) They beeped lit up and I knew I was in business, I removed the battery and put them to the side. I applied a fair sized drop of really weak glue to the tops of the bushings. (use liquid over gel, it sucks as a super glue but its best it you actually want to remove them in the future) 
Then I snapped on the rear plus scale (which holds the tweezers as well) and left the SAK with the scales down so the glue would run off the bushing and into the bushing well. I added glue to the exposed bushings and paused...
I  was so apprehensive to finish at this point. I walked around stared out a window, avoided completion for like another 10 minutes. I finally gathered the nerve to snap the front scale down added fresh glue and placed the scale over the bushings. It didn't sit right so I bit it. No real positive snap, but It went down.
I smiled a crocked smile and lowered my head... Cause it was truly...
COMPLETED!!!!!




For it being a minimalist EDC SAK, it sure has a lot of tools!
Knife, Scissors, Combo tool (driver, can opener, bottle opener) Parcel hook w/ Nail file, Phillips driver, Pen, Toothpick, Tweezers, Pin, Split ring (they count it) and all the features of electronic scale. Watch, Alarm, Count down timer, Count up timer (not really a stopwatch), Altimeter, Barometer, and Thermometer. Plus the Traveller's LED screen lights up, Voyager and Altimeters do not...

So much writing already. I actually wrote this and the epilogue at the same time. (it's not complete)

Phewww!!! That was some journey let me tell you. I literally just created my ultimate SAK, my only other course of action is making a second as a back up. Might just make a Travelling Yeoman Lite out of my Traveller Lite... Who knows?


I want to post some tips for those who want to tackle a SAK project, and I will... Tomorrow. Eyes are tired can't stare at text any longer.
Signing out

[Fattsgalore]

Oh, and here is the Spartan (with loose awl) I pieced together from the leftovers.

I added new but blemished plus scales, attached the lanyard and keychain light, and gifted it to my friend.
Threw in a straight pin with big plastic head that matches the scales perfectly, and a mini driver since she wears glasses.

No toothpick, tweezer, or pen... I let her know if she wanted wanted T&T&P she'd have to give up some buns. I said it with a crocked smile so she knew I was joking...and totally serious.

Good night ever body!!!

[jrp316]

Nice job! That's one of the better peening jobs I've seen here, and definitely excellent for your first go at modding.

[ducttapetech]

Nice mod and nicely done!

sent from Nate's mobile

[AlephZero]

Great work!

[Gareth]

That's a great looking, minimalist, SAK mate.  Nice job.

[ICanFixThat]

Great project coverage!   

[Fattsgalore]

A  forum member had interest in my mod project a little while back and wanted to tackle something similar so I though this would be as good a time as ever to finish up my  “Project” thread...

Since originally posting this topic I've done more 91mm mods and a few 58mm's as well. Nothing special though.
So I'm actually happy I didn't rush to post my epilogue; most of which was written up months ago when this project was originally completed.


Epilogue/Wrap Up
Sharing knowledge from these ...wonderful experiences. From a bare bones modder.

"This is a lengthy read, not for the casual enthusiast or collector to be honest, but your more than welcome to it who ever you are...Also, no more pics. This is for the people who actually want to tackle a SAK project weather it be modding or maybe for repair who have no experience."
Also see
http://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=43303.0
Read everything posted in these topics if interested. A lot of talented people sharing their experiences and knowledge.
Don't skip those topics over, they are the “Grail” of SAK modding.

Don't be like me use every safety precaution and tool at your disposal to easily and safely accomplish this task.
Also Alox mods are a slightly different beast to tackle and something I have yet to try. For Alox modding tips look else where.

[Fattsgalore]

Mandatory tools and hardware.
Wire snips, small hammer, drill, metal file, sand paper (Coarse to fine), 3 in 1 or any lubricant, drill bits (sizes according to SAK frame size), brass rod (sizes according to SAK frame size)
If you can obtain the proper pin stock/brass rod you wont need sand paper.
You will need an anvil or vice or large hammer to use as, well an anvil while peening. Anything metal and solid will do fine.
A drill press will work much better than a hand drill, but rule of thumb is use what you got.



Pin stock
Each frame size uses different pin stock, and those sizes can be located in the mod section
Copy and paste...
91mm: 2.5mm outer, 2.2mm (2.25) center
84mm: 2.25mm for all
74mm: 2mm modern, 1.5mm older
58mm: 1.5mm
2.2/2.25 is only readily available in EU from my experience searching the web. Same with any metric drill bits, they just don't sell them in the states.  At least not at any retail store. Work with what you can get.
2.2mm/2.25mm brass rod standard equivalent is I believe 0.088-0.09 inch.

93mm and larger SAKs I didn't find when posting this, but if you use the search bar you'll be able to locate that info some where on this forum.
Or simply ask a master modder. They'll probably know the info off the top of their heads.



Filing and sanding brass rod is the damn devil... It is. If you got the correct brass your fine and can skip this process but most likely if your in the US this will be unavoidable an a laborious task.
If your working on either 91mm or 84mm and you can get 2.2mm brass rod buy it. All of it!
If not Tom Sawyer someone into doing most of the work.
The easiest method for making pins is put the pin stock in a drill and wrap some wet sand paper around it while running the drill.
The quickest method it to use a drill with the pin in it against a belt sander running both in opposite directions. Works wonders.
When making pins fit the pin in each hole on each liner. Some of the holes may get slightly widened from the disassembly process (knocking out the pins) so if you fit the pin to a stretched hole it'll fit that hole, but not the others. So test each pin in each hole on each liner...

[Fattsgalore]

Parts/Tools
Old and new pieces don't always mix. Gareth mentions it in his DIY SAK mod topic (aka "The Grail"), and I learned this with my parcel hooks.
Your best bet is taking complete layers (liners included) rather then just a tool from a donor SAK.

The only parts that are compatible between different sized frames are the 84mm and 91mm Corkscrew and Phillips. Nothing else between the many different frames sizes is a simple drop in. Everything else would need some form of modding to work...

Back springs in most SAKs are tool specific so when reassembling keep the layers together.
58mm back springs are universal between the tools. The only exception being the one spring which has a loop for the split ring. It's normally attached to the scissors spring but could be located else where if you wanted. But I personally leave it with the scissors.
Old 58mm springs and newer ones can't be opposite each other. Newer ones have these protrusions on them and if it's opposite an old one you wont be able to compress the spring on reassembly. But they can both be put in to the same SAK, just not opposite one another.

[Fattsgalore]

Disassembling
Disassembling is addressed in the original post and the method to disassembling a SAK is universal between all frame sizes since they are constructed in the same manner. Drill one side of the pin then knock it out with what ever is at hand. Alox since they don't use bushings can be knocked partially out then the pin can be pulled the rest of the way with pliers...but once again Alox mods aren't something I've tackled... Yet.



Reassembly
This is where it's “different flavors for different folks”. People tackle this process differently.
“I personally” push my pins through the corresponding holes on the front liner. Then place the tools where they need to be in their open position. Some may do this process while the tools are in their closed position.
Second I put the back spring in settling one end into position and making sure that end and back tool (if there is one) is in place while the other end of the spring will sit atop the opposite ends tool. Certain single tool layers will need to have the spring compressed at the tools pivot point. Scissor and pliers for example. 
Attach the next liner press it down then I work at compressing the spring to get everything in place. Others may assemble everything then apply the next liner. (I've bent a pin like that)
I learned to clamp the end with the spring already in place together with a clamp. (some use a vice, I've also not used anything and had success) squeeze the liner together while you push against the spring using a driver. 91mm bottle opener/flat head is what I use on my 91mm projects and for 58mm mods I compress the spring with the 91mm combo tool. It's perfect for those smaller springs
Sometimes everything will pop together other times it'll take forever and you might end up driving the driver through your thumb. I've had the positive and negative experiences, but in the end everything went back together.

On models with either corkscrew of Phillips if you start from the back liner you'll have to deal with the hump of those tools, so always start with the front liner facing down and work up to the CS/P.

[Fattsgalore]

Peening
You may not have to completely mushroom the pin heads when peening if you peen while the pins are in the knife, in a vise or other method that retains the pin (my drill method) you will have to completely mushroom the head.
Depending on how much material you leave exposed, way you file, and your method and amount of force applied it may not completely fill the bushing but still be plenty tight. Just make sure the bushings are tight and evenly seated upon the liner. Keep checking for desired tool tension, and if you get it wrong, drill, rinse and repeat.

On the Spartan I over peen'd (little to no snap) and had to do it again. I drilled, then knocked out the old pins with the new ones, so no full tear down. 
If while peening you bend a pin, it's trash. Start over.
If you loose or destroy the bushings good luck getting scales firmly attached... Epoxy, lots of it.
I have to add I use a plain small claw hammer, not a ball peen. But a ball peen hammer is preferable.
And the thinner diameter pin stock peens much easier. So 1.5mm wont need as much force or strikes as 2.5mm.

[Fattsgalore]

Cleaning your work.
The best way to fix a rough action caused by debris is spraying a liberal amount of WD40 between  back spring and tool while its open closed and everywhere in between. Some metal particle are just uber stubborn. Brass dust is way harder to remove than dirt.

A dirty SAK just needs a few minutes under a faucet or a drench in a tub or jug of hot water. If you do this with the scales attached don't use water hotter than you'd be willing to stick you hand in for an extend period of time. Scales do not like hot. Dishwasher safe they are not.
If really stubborn use some 3 in 1 or any lubricant let it sit then brush/scrub the exposed tang area. Work the tools and continue till you get a smooth action. Sometimes it'll take longer than others.

Dry and only apply a small droplet of oil to the tools tang. To much oil and it'll actually attract dirt. Wipe/scrap along the crevices between tang and liner when done, it's the white glove treatment. (every time you open and close it you create metal dust, there will always be a fine gray dust in that crevice. )
Routine maintenance, should be a simple scrubbing of the tang and spring with an old toothbrush; no oil needed. Once a week or when you think it may need it. This should keep your action smooth year round.

[Fattsgalore]

I suggest one simple gesture to help you get the fire started. (especially if your one of those "Gonna" types) Simply buy some brass rod. Even if you don't plan on tackling the project this weekend or next or even in the foreseeable future, at least you'll have what you need where you need it when you need it. This in it's self may be the momentum needed to get you started...


Hope this helps even a little. If you need more assistance there are a ton of more experienced people here on this forum who would probably be more than willing to assist.
An expert I am not.

Want to ask any questions or experienced modders want to add, feel free...
Definitely open to discussion.


Wanna thank Gareth once again, and everyone for their very kind words.
Wish you all the best of luck, and remember...
SAK Life