Show off your Sak mod's!

[Bob Wolfson]

The orange peeler on an 74mm Executive is a great tool for peeling oranges, but otherwise?  And an Executive doesn't have a bottle opener.

So I reground one to add beerability, and I thought that a pointy tool might be more useful than another sharp edge. 



See some of my other SAK mods at https://sites.google.com/view/bobs-swiss-army-knife-mods/home

[T14]

The orange peeler on an 74mm Executive is a great tool for peeling oranges, but otherwise?  And an Executive doesn't have a bottle opener.

So I reground one to add beerability, and I thought that a pointy tool might be more useful than another sharp edge. 

(Image removed from quote.)

See some of my other SAK mods at https://sites.google.com/view/bobs-swiss-army-knife-mods/home

Interesting prodder Bob...

It kind of reminnds me of the combo tool on the Golf Tool http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Golf+Tool

[this_is_nascar]

The orange peeler on an 74mm Executive is a great tool for peeling oranges, but otherwise?  And an Executive doesn't have a bottle opener.

So I reground one to add beerability, and I thought that a pointy tool might be more useful than another sharp edge. 

(Image removed from quote.)

See some of my other SAK mods at https://sites.google.com/view/bobs-swiss-army-knife-mods/home

Interesting prodder Bob...

It kind of reminnds me of the combo tool on the Golf Tool http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Golf+Tool

The orange peeler on an 74mm Executive is a great tool for peeling oranges, but otherwise?  And an Executive doesn't have a bottle opener.

So I reground one to add beerability, and I thought that a pointy tool might be more useful than another sharp edge. 

(Image removed from quote.)

See some of my other SAK mods at https://sites.google.com/view/bobs-swiss-army-knife-mods/home

I like it.  Does it have an edge to it or just the point/tip?


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[Bob Wolfson]

I like it.  Does it have an edge to it or just the point/tip?


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Just a point, at this point.  I might add an eyelet for thread. 

[T14]

New Tinkertoy.
Inline awl from a 93mm knife, Thanks Mags 
Dropped the backspring awl in favour of a backspring screwdriver.
I'll carry it for a week and see if this driver-centric build is to my liking or not. It looked good on paper, at least. Name tba.

[Don Pablo]

 
I think MacGyver would carry that one! 

[Bob Wolfson]

FWIW, this is what the scissors/blades layer of a 74mm Executive looks like:



Note how the two springs interlock so only one end has to be pinned and the other 3 accept tools.  The other layer, for the file and orange peeler, is just like in a 58mm knife, and is half as thick as this layer.

[T14]

Cheers for the pic Bob.
I intend to make a 74mm jetsetter from a moneyclip and a file from a prince. This will be useful. 

PS: interesting plate/jig in the background. I see you have holes for 74 and 58mm SAKs. Would you mind elaborating on it's purpose and use?

[Fortytwo]

Cheers for the pic Bob.
I intend to make a 74mm jetsetter from a moneyclip and a file from a prince. This will be useful. 

PS: interesting plate/jig in the background. I see you have holes for 74 and 58mm SAKs. Would you mind elaborating on it's purpose and use?

I have been using a similar solution (but made of wood) to hold the pins in place when putting mods together. I can't answer if that is Bobs use for it but I imagine something along those lines. Made of metal it would allow for peening of the first side while holding it together.

[Bob Wolfson]

I have been using a similar solution (but made of wood) to hold the pins in place when putting mods together. I can't answer if that is Bobs use for it but I imagine something along those lines. Made of metal it would allow for peening of the first side while holding it together.

Yes, that's it exactly.  I cut pins overly long and insert them in the 4 holes for whichever I'm assembling, either a 58 or 74.  That holds them vertical and stable while I build the layers. The holes are actually very slightly oversize so the pins bind less when removing the assembled knife.  I don't actually use them for peening because there's too much chance of causing that very binding.  I just remove the assembled knife, grind down excess pin on both sides, and then bang away on the flat part of the plate (a barbell weight).

I also use the plate holes as a template for drilling holes in metal scales or liners.  It's actually the first thing I do, even before shaping them.  I cut the work shape roughly and mark where the holes are going to be.  I then drill the hole 1 by eye.  I pin the work to the plate at hole 1, and rotate it out of the way of hole 2 diagonally opposite, while I align hole 2 exactly with the bit in the press.  I then rotate the work back into place by eye and drill through it, knowing the bit is dropping into hole 2 in the plate.  Now I have two holes in the work exactly where they belong relative to each other, though they may not be exactly at the locations I originally marked.  I can then align hole 3 in the plate with the bit in the press, rotate the work into place, pin it through holes 2 and 1, and drill 3.  Etc. for #4. 

Once I have 4 perfectly aligned holes in all my work pieces I pin them all together with an original side liner as a guide and start grinding away at the edges of the work pieces until they're flush with the liner.  When I'm done, I have a mated set of pieces for polishing and assembly.

I'm maintaining a sort of blog of my results https://sites.google.com/view/bobs-swiss-army-knife-mods/home.  No ads, for your enjoyment.

[Fortytwo]

I have been using a similar solution (but made of wood) to hold the pins in place when putting mods together. I can't answer if that is Bobs use for it but I imagine something along those lines. Made of metal it would allow for peening of the first side while holding it together.

Yes, that's it exactly.  I cut pins overly long and insert them in the 4 holes for whichever I'm assembling, either a 58 or 74.  That holds them vertical and stable while I build the layers. The holes are actually very slightly oversize so the pins bind less when removing the assembled knife.  I don't actually use them for peening because there's too much chance of causing that very binding.  I just remove the assembled knife, grind down excess pin on both sides, and then bang away on the flat part of the plate (a barbell weight).

I also use the plate holes as a template for drilling holes in metal scales or liners.  It's actually the first thing I do, even before shaping them.  I cut the work shape roughly and mark where the holes are going to be.  I then drill the hole 1 by eye.  I pin the work to the plate at hole 1, and rotate it out of the way of hole 2 diagonally opposite, while I align hole 2 exactly with the bit in the press.  I then rotate the work back into place by eye and drill through it, knowing the bit is dropping into hole 2 in the plate.  Now I have two holes in the work exactly where they belong relative to each other, though they may not be exactly at the locations I originally marked.  I can then align hole 3 in the plate with the bit in the press, rotate the work into place, pin it through holes 2 and 1, and drill 3.  Etc. for #4. 

Once I have 4 perfectly aligned holes in all my work pieces I pin them all together with an original side liner as a guide and start grinding away at the edges of the work pieces until they're flush with the liner.  When I'm done, I have a mated set of pieces for polishing and assembly.

I'm maintaining a sort of blog of my results https://sites.google.com/view/bobs-swiss-army-knife-mods/home.  No ads, for your enjoyment.

Nice solution! My way, since my block lacks the weight to stay put, has been to drill the first hole by sight and then use the liner as a template. It works well enough I guess but your solution seem neater.

[Bob Wolfson]

Here's what the peeler/file layer looks like in a 74mm Executive



It's interesting that one of the springs has a notch in it similar to the one in the image of the scissors/blades layer I posted previously.  It doesn't have a purpose that I can see, and I did not see it before in the other 2  I've taken apart.  If the opposing spring had a protrusion, it would allow the layer to have 3 tools instead of just 2, like in the scissors/blade layer.

Coincidentally, I took this knife apart specifically to see if I could arrange that very configuration: 3 tools in both layers.  To try it, I ground off the peg flange of one spring, notched both in their centers, and stuck a pin between them like this:



So far, with some additional shaping, it looks like this will work.  But I'm not sure what tools to mount in the layer.  It will have to be one full length tool (like perhaps the peeler that I cut into a pick and bottle opener and shared in a prior post), and two half-length tools that fold toward one another (cut down from either or both a peeler and a file).  I thought maybe a flat screwdriver and a 2D phillips?  Or maybe a little chisel/scraper and something else?  Any ideas?

[Jonas Stenmark]

I like to whittle, often at a cafe etc so the non threatening SAK makes for a good alternative. Made wood chisel out of the can and bottle openers and tried to make wharncliffe blades (small one works, big one I'm not too happy with). 

Would like to make an alox version (but not sure if it would become too slippy on the hand) with the electrician blade and saw. Maybe anger the awl god by switching it out for another main-blade if possible then make them a lot shorter. Pref a good wharncliffe + sheepfoot perhaps...?

Added tiny baby rhino.

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[T14]

Welcome onboard Jonas 

I reckon a modded 58mm or 74mm chassis would work well for a non-threatening mini whittler. These frames will also fit 91mm backspring tools with a little tweaking.
You could also fit both the electrician's and small pruner blades into a single 91mm blade layer. I'm also certain that two small pen blades could fit across eah other. These 91mm mods would require building appropriate spacers, but that is easily done with alu/brass plate and some grinding.

[Jonas Stenmark]

Welcome onboard Jonas 

I reckon a modded 58mm or 74mm chassis would work well for a non-threatening mini whittler. These frames will also fit 91mm backspring tools with a little tweaking.
You could also fit both the electrician's and small pruner blades into a single 91mm blade layer. I'm also certain that two small pen blades could fit across eah other. These 91mm mods would require building appropriate spacers, but that is easily done with alu/brass plate and some grinding.

Thank you! I have been trying to "read up" in the threads here (already seen that my mod already have been done, and way better!)

I'd like to go with 91mm and drill and add torq screw option even if it seems hard. My big concern is to for eternit everything together and "gripability". Maybe I could solve it by harddrive aluminium (someone did a such mod, is it legit to "loan"others solutions?) And something with comfy friction on top?

FRN, g10 is all the rage still but maybe I could figure out something more affordable.

Btw! I got this delemont on conrad dot se earlier. Very curious clippoint small blade, had to get.

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[WDY]

Some new Woodys from deepest Mexico
1) First one is a Tinker with ebony scales, and three visible brass pins. Turns out ebony is not too expensive when you buy it as guitar parts. I got 1/2" thick blanks used for the tailpiece of a guitar (where the strings go into the body) then resaw it to 3/16 for the scales. Ebony's hard and nice to work with.Also used for the black keys on a piano.
2) Next is a Spartan with mango wood scales. This fruit grows in abundance where I live but a lot of times it has little blems (holes) in it from insects.  This can be dealt with using black epoxy, but I just left this puppy rough for tourist comsumption.
3) Third one is a modded Waiter, replacing the corkscrew with a philips.  Scales are lignum vitea pinned with 4 brass rivets. This wood is one of the hardest in the world and it has sort of an oily surface. (It was actually used as bearing surfaces on large machinery) This example shows both heart and sapwood. It's unusual because the sap's just as hard as the heartwood.
Cheers    -Yager

[T14]

Nice work. The waiter->apprentice conversion is so useful. My modded apprentice is my favorite cellidor/nylon edc option. 

[jaya_man]

Recently completed my Cadet II X mod...


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[Don Pablo]

 

[Mechanickal]

Saw it on FB too...

Me want-y

[jaya_man]

Thanks Paul and Nick...


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[Don Pablo]

Limited edition bi-colour! 

[Jonas Stenmark]

Some new Woodys from deepest Mexico
1) First one is a Tinker with ebony scales, and three visible brass pins. Turns out ebony is not too expensive when you buy it as guitar parts. I got 1/2" thick blanks used for the tailpiece of a guitar (where the strings go into the body) then resaw it to 3/16 for the scales. Ebony's hard and nice to work with.Also used for the black keys on a piano.
2) Next is a Spartan with mango wood scales. This fruit grows in abundance where I live but a lot of times it has little blems (holes) in it from insects.  This can be dealt with using black epoxy, but I just left this puppy rough for tourist comsumption.
3) Third one is a modded Waiter, replacing the corkscrew with a philips.  Scales are lignum vitea pinned with 4 brass rivets. This wood is one of the hardest in the world and it has sort of an oily surface. (It was actually used as bearing surfaces on large machinery) This example shows both heart and sapwood. It's unusual because the sap's just as hard as the heartwood.
Cheers    -Yager

You inspire me!. Gonna made new scales it of wood to my whittler knife ("horse jumping lumber" in works, for scale).

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[Jonas Stenmark]

Some new Woodys from deepest Mexico
1) First one is a Tinker with ebony scales, and three visible brass pins. Turns out ebony is not too expensive when you buy it as guitar parts. I got 1/2" thick blanks used for the tailpiece of a guitar (where the strings go into the body) then resaw it to 3/16 for the scales. Ebony's hard and nice to work with.Also used for the black keys on a piano.
2) Next is a Spartan with mango wood scales. This fruit grows in abundance where I live but a lot of times it has little blems (holes) in it from insects.  This can be dealt with using black epoxy, but I just left this puppy rough for tourist comsumption.
3) Third one is a modded Waiter, replacing the corkscrew with a philips.  Scales are lignum vitea pinned with 4 brass rivets. This wood is one of the hardest in the world and it has sort of an oily surface. (It was actually used as bearing surfaces on large machinery) This example shows both heart and sapwood. It's unusual because the sap's just as hard as the heartwood.
Cheers    -Yager

You inspire me!. Gonna made new scales it of wood to my whittler knife ("horse jumping lumber" in works, for scale).(Image removed from quote.)

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Just adding complete picture. I'm not a very good modder, but I try!

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[hiraethus]

Recently completed my Cadet II X mod...(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)


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That’s a beauty jaya! Love the 2017 SE colour. 

[WDY]

Jonas - nice work.  You working with hardwoods on these carved guys? How are you affixing the scales?  Glue/epoxy? I have a hard time with the toothpick and tweezers slots in the scales so I generally just leave 'em out. When I get better at this I'll try including them again.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers -Yager

[jaya_man]

Recently completed my Cadet II X mod...(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)


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That’s a beauty jaya! Love the 2017 SE colour. 

Thanks H... it actually has both the 2015 and 2017 LE scales


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[Jonas Stenmark]

You really should make a in depth guide how to replace those copper pins with screws, I might be blind but I haven't seen any on it.. Your knife looks great!

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[jaya_man]

You really should make a in depth guide how to replace those copper pins with screws, I might be blind but I haven't seen any on it.. Your knife looks great!

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Thanks... I actually did... some helpful tips from H and the others too...

https://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=73215.0


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[Drreptar]

Had fun with this one. Saved the blade from an ‘78 AMEFA knife and made an Alox ‘compact’ with it