Key points in bottle opener design

[jzmtl]

Since we have a bottle opener challenge I've been looking at the different ones I have. Some are good some sucks, and there are a few key points that will decide which it is.

In my crappy illustration I've labeled the three that I think are important.

Number 1 is the hook, to be able to lift up cap lip it needs to do three things. It needs to be long enough to reach under the lip, needs to be thick enough so it won't shear through the lip, and needs to have enough upward angle and defined point so it'll hold the lip instead of slipping. The Gerber clutch has notoriously bad bottle opener because it failed all of these.

Number 2 is the pivot, it needs to have enough contact surface area so it'll actually pivot on the cap instead of dig in. Leatherman's combo tool failed this given its sharp point for the other function.

Number 3 is the fulcrum length. It needs to be long enough so the pivot is near the other edge of the cap, so you are actually lifting the cap instead of folding it 90°. I think it was the fiskars cut+more scissors that bend the cap instead of lifting half of the time.

Victorinox standard cap lifter is regarded as pretty much the best in business, and it excels at all three. Another good one is Leatherman crater knife, even though it works in reverse it still follows this basic principle.




So yeah, that's my Sunday evening random babbling of the week. 

[Lynn LeFey]

There are at least two more measurements of some importance, I think.

The Distance from the hook (#1) upward. I've encountered bottle openers that didn't reach from the lip of the bottle opener to the flat of the cap. So it wouldn't allow #2 to make contact with the top of the cap. that distance is somewhat important to the function as well.

And finally, the lever length used to pry the entire tool. The longer, the less effort required. Although, that distance is less important, since it doesn't take tons of force to pry a cap.

While the surface area on #2 IS important, it's almost never a deal-breaker. You don't get any points for how pretty the cap is when removed, so if the cap gets punched through the top or the rim is mangled into 90 degree bends doesn't really matter, IMO.

I DO like openers that do the job the first time every time, but most every opener does the trick. I have no hate of the Leatherman hook-bill style. I'm NOT a fan of the one on the Squirt. It tends to rip through the cap rim too much for my liking.

Hope that wasn't too much pointless rambling.

[RimfireNZ]

It's not much of a contribution, but I agree that the Leatherman ones are pretty average. They don't always work the first time. I find them hard to get hooked under too.

The SAK ones are awesome. First time, every time.

[PTRSAK]

Speaking of bottle-openers.

Here's one I prepared earlier...  about 40 years earlier.



This was the first thing we made in Metalwork/Engineering class in high school.
It is made from mild steel and the hook is case hardened.

Back then soft drinks (soda) came in glass bottles with crown caps, so it was a valid project for a 13 year old.   

The Teacher who "designed" it got it right. It's actually one of the better openers I have.  It's just that most things have twist caps these days and it has been sitting in the bottom the the cutlery drawer for years.
Perhaps it needs a soak in some coca cola.. 

[Syncop8r]

I think the thickness at (1) is important - the thicker it is, the more likely you will catch one of the flared out bits of the cap. It's quite thick on the Skeletool - about 3.5mm.

Is there any variation in bottle caps between countries?

[bmot]

Also not unimportant: The "body" of the tool.


Gerbers are sometimes too large, the body interferes with the neck of the bottle, so the hook can't reach the actual rim of the cap...