how do you sharpen a victorinox classic with the lansky deluxe?

Scott_Servais · **on:** July 05, 2015, 01:48:31 AM

the blade is so small i have to sharpen it side to side help

Corwyn · **Reply #1 on:** July 05, 2015, 07:17:17 AM

I don't have any issues.. just sharpening it like a regular blade... the trick is fitting it so it won't slip but still be able to reach the blade.
It will be easier in time, after the top part ofthe clamps become erroded.

Smaug · **Reply #2 on:** July 05, 2015, 10:27:51 AM

It's much easier to sharpen smaller blades with a ceramic rod-type sharpener.

I bought a Lansky years back, and found it is mostly good for bigger knives that don't start tapering right from the spine of the blade. I never use it now; it was one of my worst knife-related purchases.

ironraven · **Reply #3 on:** July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM

By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

AimlessWanderer · **Reply #4 on:** July 05, 2015, 04:22:45 PM

Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM

By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

kirk13 · **Reply #5 on:** July 05, 2015, 04:29:10 PM

Quote from: 50ft-trad on July 05, 2015, 04:22:45 PM

Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM
By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

No,

dks · **Reply #6 on:** July 05, 2015, 05:01:55 PM

the lansky is not great with small or huge blades... I just sharpen 58mm SAKs freehand - the steel is easy to sharpen.

SAK Guy · **Reply #7 on:** July 05, 2015, 05:05:29 PM

Quote from: kirk13 on July 05, 2015, 04:29:10 PM

Quote from: 50ft-trad on July 05, 2015, 04:22:45 PM
Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM
By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

No,

Uh, excuse me but

Scott_Servais · **Reply #8 on:** July 05, 2015, 06:03:39 PM

also how much sharper is a 20 degree angle vs a 25 degree angle. How many more cuts can you make with the 25 degree angle?

Scott_Servais · **Reply #9 on:** July 06, 2015, 05:58:06 AM

Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM

By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

if you want to sharpen at 20 degrees how do you prevent yourself from accidentally sharpening at 19 degrees? this is why the sharpmaker is garbage.

AimlessWanderer · **Reply #10 on:** July 06, 2015, 10:02:31 AM

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 05, 2015, 06:03:39 PM

also how much sharper is a 20 degree angle vs a 25 degree angle. How many more cuts can you make with the 25 degree angle?

Sharp is sharp, irrespective of angle. A 20 degree angle will slice better, but need resharpening quicker. Either will suffice on a pocket knife.

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 06, 2015, 05:58:06 AM

Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM
By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

if you want to sharpen at 20 degrees how do you prevent yourself from accidentally sharpening at 19 degrees? this is why the sharpmaker is garbage.

It makes no difference at all. Just make sure you're working the edge rather than the shoulder between the two grind angles. Use a marker pen to colour the edge if it helps

Smaug · **Reply #11 on:** July 06, 2015, 04:24:44 PM

Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM

By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

ironraven · **Reply #12 on:** July 07, 2015, 05:12:48 AM

Hah. Hah. Hah. Not badass, just an observation

I was given a Lansky when I was a kid, like most kids are given a bike with training wheels when they first learn to ride. Couldn't keep my angle consistant freehanding the stones. I learned, and I pretty much wiped out a couple Classics and cheap paring knives in the process. The stones are still good, and the are a convenient size, and honestly, it isn't a horrible price if you are wanting a set of stones.

Degrees are one of those things a lot of bile gets spilled and a lot of butts get hurt over. On a 58mm SAK, it's so narrow I'm not sure you'll notice the difference, but I'd lean more to the 20 degree. A little narrower and it is a razor, pure and simple, but it won't hold that edge long at 15-17 degrees and you'll be reprofiling the blade practically. I don't find the little guys big enough for the type of thing that I'd want to go with a 25 or heavier.

Scott_Servais · **Reply #13 on:** July 08, 2015, 02:50:25 AM

is there a sharpening system that works with a victorinox classic? the lansky clamp i have won't work because the stone hits the top of the clamp when using the 20 degree slot, also i have a turnbox but i can't maintain a constant angle with it.

shark_za · **Reply #14 on:** July 08, 2015, 06:23:32 AM

One thing you will quickly learn on the Lansky is to ignore the numbers on the slots. Whatever slot works for the classic without hitting the clamp is good. SAKs are so easy to sharpen.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scott_Servais · **Reply #15 on:** July 08, 2015, 06:52:56 AM

Quote from: shark_za on July 08, 2015, 06:23:32 AM

One thing you will quickly learn on the Lansky is to ignore the numbers on the slots. Whatever slot works for the classic without hitting the clamp is good. SAKs are so easy to sharpen.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ok i'll try the 30 then

kirk13 · **Reply #16 on:** July 08, 2015, 09:28:15 AM

Scott,try one of these for your classic. The ceramic crock sticks are set for the Vic grind angle
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AR7AKG?colid=ZR7C3IPPHM2B&coliid=IC0MYF3S5WWAX&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

Scott_Servais · **Reply #17 on:** July 09, 2015, 12:43:09 AM

Quote from: kirk13 on July 08, 2015, 09:28:15 AM

Scott,try one of these for your classic. The ceramic crock sticks are set for the Vic grind angle
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AR7AKG?colid=ZR7C3IPPHM2B&coliid=IC0MYF3S5WWAX&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

i have one of those but i heard that the scraper type sharpeners will damage the blade so I haven't used it.

kirk13 · **Reply #18 on:** July 09, 2015, 08:47:11 AM

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 09, 2015, 12:43:09 AM

Quote from: kirk13 on July 08, 2015, 09:28:15 AM
Scott,try one of these for your classic. The ceramic crock sticks are set for the Vic grind angle
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AR7AKG?colid=ZR7C3IPPHM2B&coliid=IC0MYF3S5WWAX&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

i have one of those but i heard that the scraper type sharpeners will damage the blade so I haven't used it.

It's good! If it wasn't,victorinox wouldn't recommend it for their knives

I also use it for my Vic Paring knife for kitchen work

Corwyn · **Reply #19 on:** July 09, 2015, 09:45:19 AM

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 09, 2015, 12:43:09 AM

Quote from: kirk13 on July 08, 2015, 09:28:15 AM
Scott,try one of these for your classic. The ceramic crock sticks are set for the Vic grind angle
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AR7AKG?colid=ZR7C3IPPHM2B&coliid=IC0MYF3S5WWAX&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

i have one of those but i heard that the scraper type sharpeners will damage the blade so I haven't used it.

It's the carbide ones that damage the blades. This one is ceramic so it's quite ok.
Had one... very good with saks, good with serrated edges, atrocious with carbon steel.
Sold it when I got my Lansky kit and now I regret it (mainly for the serrations function)

collim1 · **Reply #20 on:** July 11, 2015, 09:59:36 AM

Don't own the classic, but pretty sure its the same blade as my Rally. I don't use my guided system on that tiny blade. Its such a small and thin blade I find it very easy to sharpen freehand on almost any stone. A fine Arkansas stone will sharpen that little guy up in a few passes.

I would think it very easy to eat up a lot of blade very quickly with any aggressive sharpening system, and it doesn't have much to spare. Especially if it came from the factory like mine, with a very shallow edge angle having a long thin edge with a burr on it. I put a small micro bevel on it and called it quits. I only open mail with the blade anyway.

Dean51 · **Reply #21 on:** July 11, 2015, 03:06:32 PM

I tried a Lansky deluxe & found it didn't work with smaller blades. You might look into a Lansky Diamond/Ceramic 4-Rod Turn Box. It would be perfect for smaller blades like a victorinox classic.

Sharp is a relative term that has a lot to do with the steel being used, the work being done or how OCD you are about the edge.

I've found with vic steel, 440A/B, 420HC etc that 20 degrees per side is fine for light work paper or twine. 25 degrees per side is better for heavier work like cardboard or fuel line.

RT1969 · **Reply #22 on:** July 12, 2015, 10:48:49 AM

As some others do, I just freehand my Classic on the very fine stone, maybe the fine once in a while.
Gets razing sharp.

The trick is to get as light strokes as possible, and I often strope the very fine stone (Going from spine to edge, the opposite direction than I use the other stones).

Practice makes perfect!

Scott_Servais · **Reply #23 on:** July 14, 2015, 12:08:39 AM

If you sharpen at 20 degrees and you sharpen it too much and the blade gets too thick then how do you fix it by applying a backbevel on the turnbox? with the sharpmaker you can just use the 15 degree holes so if you can't do it on the turnbox then is it worth it to get a sharpmaker for this function?

sir_mike · **Reply #24 on:** July 14, 2015, 12:32:20 AM

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 06, 2015, 05:58:06 AM

Quote from: ironraven on July 05, 2015, 04:14:52 PM
By hand. The stones work just as well without the jig and rod gadgetry.

if you want to sharpen at 20 degrees how do you prevent yourself from accidentally sharpening at 19 degrees? this is why the sharpmaker is garbage.

The Sharpmaker is not garbage! I use it all the time for edge maintenance without any issues!

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 09, 2015, 12:43:09 AM

Quote from: kirk13 on July 08, 2015, 09:28:15 AM
Scott,try one of these for your classic. The ceramic crock sticks are set for the Vic grind angle
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AR7AKG?colid=ZR7C3IPPHM2B&coliid=IC0MYF3S5WWAX&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

i have one of those but i heard that the scraper type sharpeners will damage the blade so I haven't used it.

That's really only for the pull type that have the steel cutters. The ceramics work great for small sak blades.

Scott_Servais · **Reply #25 on:** July 16, 2015, 04:52:12 AM

my turnbox has bumps on the fine rod and the rods are loose in the holes you get what u pay for should i get a sharpmaker?

Scott_Servais · **Reply #26 on:** July 19, 2015, 02:40:36 AM

how much does it cost to send the knife to victorinox to have them sharpen it using the service.swissarmy.com repair process?

Aloha · **Reply #27 on:** July 19, 2015, 02:54:22 AM

So there has been some really good advice given.

Scott dont worry too much about a degree or two. The bumps on the rods does suck but can you find a portion that is smooth? The looseness is also not an issue either since as I mention a degree or 2 wont matter.

Scott_Servais · **Reply #28 on:** July 20, 2015, 04:56:22 AM

Everytime I sharpen a knife on the turnbox the bevel looks thinner, what does this mean?

Aloha · **Reply #29 on:** July 20, 2015, 06:33:37 AM

Quote from: Scott_Servais on July 20, 2015, 04:56:22 AM

Everytime I sharpen a knife on the turnbox the bevel looks thinner, what does this mean?

I almost exclusively use the Turn box on the 20 degree setting. I'd imagine it does look thinner especially if the knife went from dull to several strokes on the ceramics. I can only say you have got much better eye sight than I do because at 20 degrees on such a small blade I wouldn't be able to tell.

Some have mentioned using a sharpie to make the edge and I strongly agree with that method. Once the color is removed a few more passes and this blade should be good to go.

On a side note I have tried using a ceramic coffee mug bottom to bring back the edge on my Swisschamp and it does work.

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how do you sharpen a victorinox classic with the lansky deluxe?

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