I had a ranger and got rid of it. It was too big in hand.
Interesting insight. Could it be that the Alox tore up your hands because you have soft girly hands?
And do you feel the hand is more easy to cramp/fatigue when the handle is too thin? I sometimes do feel this way when I was using thinner SAKs for prolonged sawing.
I like SAKs but they're definitely not my first choice for whittling.I like traditional slipjoints for that and certain patterns are more comfortable than others. My favorites being Stockman, Swayback and Congress patterns. Has to be carbon steel blades too.
Quote from: Flint Hills on October 15, 2015, 01:59:32 PMI like SAKs but they're definitely not my first choice for whittling.I like traditional slipjoints for that and certain patterns are more comfortable than others. My favorites being Stockman, Swayback and Congress patterns. Has to be carbon steel blades too.Congress is a superb pattern for whittling. There´s a blade for everything.This would come close:(Image removed from quote.)
Quote from: Mextreme on October 15, 2015, 07:46:18 PMQuote from: Flint Hills on October 15, 2015, 01:59:32 PMI like SAKs but they're definitely not my first choice for whittling.I like traditional slipjoints for that and certain patterns are more comfortable than others. My favorites being Stockman, Swayback and Congress patterns. Has to be carbon steel blades too.f dCongress is a superb pattern for whittling. There´s a blade for everything.This would come close:(Image removed from quote.)Oh nice! What model is that or is it a mod? I've never seen a regular (non-electrician) sheepsfoot blade like that on a SAK.
Quote from: Flint Hills on October 15, 2015, 01:59:32 PMI like SAKs but they're definitely not my first choice for whittling.I like traditional slipjoints for that and certain patterns are more comfortable than others. My favorites being Stockman, Swayback and Congress patterns. Has to be carbon steel blades too.f dCongress is a superb pattern for whittling. There´s a blade for everything.This would come close:(Image removed from quote.)
Quote from: Flint Hills on October 16, 2015, 02:53:22 PMQuote from: Mextreme on October 15, 2015, 07:46:18 PMQuote from: Flint Hills on October 15, 2015, 01:59:32 PMI like SAKs but they're definitely not my first choice for whittling.I like traditional slipjoints for that and certain patterns are more comfortable than others. My favorites being Stockman, Swayback and Congress patterns. Has to be carbon steel blades too.f dCongress is a superb pattern for whittling. There´s a blade for everything.This would come close:(Image removed from quote.)Oh nice! What model is that or is it a mod? I've never seen a regular (non-electrician) sheepsfoot blade like that on a SAK.It's a mod of the small blade.Actually theres a book of whittling with a SAK.
Did someone say wider Alox?
For me, #1 comfort was the 84mm Recruit. Smooth back (no back tools) made the difference. My preferred whittled is the 91mm Hiker. Phillips on the back, instead of corkscrew helps. I re-profile the small blade to be more like a Wharncliffe. Also, removing the key ring and grinding down the key ring nub is a must.
Quote from: Smaug on October 18, 2015, 03:15:54 AMFor me, #1 comfort was the 84mm Recruit. Smooth back (no back tools) made the difference. My preferred whittled is the 91mm Hiker. Phillips on the back, instead of corkscrew helps. I re-profile the small blade to be more like a Wharncliffe. Also, removing the key ring and grinding down the key ring nub is a must. What is your method to remove the key ring "nub" without buggering up the liners?
Quote from: Marcellus on October 19, 2015, 01:49:37 AMQuote from: Smaug on October 18, 2015, 03:15:54 AMFor me, #1 comfort was the 84mm Recruit. Smooth back (no back tools) made the difference. My preferred whittled is the 91mm Hiker. Phillips on the back, instead of corkscrew helps. I re-profile the small blade to be more like a Wharncliffe. Also, removing the key ring and grinding down the key ring nub is a must. What is your method to remove the key ring "nub" without buggering up the liners?I don't know Smaug's method but I partly deploy the bottle opener to lift the key ring up off the liners a little while I work on it.
Quote from: zoidberg on October 27, 2015, 10:21:54 AMQuote from: Marcellus on October 19, 2015, 01:49:37 AMQuote from: Smaug on October 18, 2015, 03:15:54 AMFor me, #1 comfort was the 84mm Recruit. Smooth back (no back tools) made the difference. My preferred whittled is the 91mm Hiker. Phillips on the back, instead of corkscrew helps. I re-profile the small blade to be more like a Wharncliffe. Also, removing the key ring and grinding down the key ring nub is a must. What is your method to remove the key ring "nub" without buggering up the liners?I don't know Smaug's method but I partly deploy the bottle opener to lift the key ring up off the liners a little while I work on it.By Bottle Opener you are referring to the Cap Lifter, I presume, not the Corkscrew. This works on the 91mm where the keyring attachment is on the spring, but not the 84mm where it is attached to the liner
Quote from: Marcellus on October 19, 2015, 01:49:37 AMQuote from: Smaug on October 18, 2015, 03:15:54 AMFor me, #1 comfort was the 84mm Recruit. Smooth back (no back tools) made the difference. My preferred whittled is the 91mm Hiker. Phillips on the back, instead of corkscrew helps. I re-profile the small blade to be more like a Wharncliffe. Also, removing the key ring and grinding down the key ring nub is a must. What is your method to remove the key ring "nub" without buggering up the liners?I don't know Smaug's method but I partly deploy the bottle opener to lift the key ring up off the liners a little while I work on it.GREAT tip, Thanks
This tread prompted me to modify a super Tinker into a traveling whittling knifeThanks Aloha for the caplifter/screwdriver half stop tip, made the key ring nub, a clean removal
You didn't like the 84mm size, zoid? I like the Recruit myself but I keep thinking I much prefer a Camper in its place.And, I don't care for the 84mm's pen blabe