Spyderco Delica4 Disassemble/reassemble.

[captain spaulding]

I needed to take this apart so I figured I would try and get some pics in case anyone needs the info.



Used my Wiha set. All you need is a T6 and T8. T6 for all the handle screws and pocket clip screws. T8 for the pivot screw.






I decided to take the blade out first to keep things safe.








Opened up.







I noticed something concerning. The cutout on the tang for the lock bar to fall into is ground strangely in my opinion. I will be contacting Spyderco about this.





You will need oil and loctite.







Blade and washer wiped down.






Liners go back in, spacer and tension bar go in, and the pins go in. There is a flat spot so they only go in one way so do not force anything.






After that you put oil around the pivot where the washer will go, place a washer, oil, place the blade, oil, place the other washer, oil.







Next liner.








Next scale.







Now here is the hardest part and the part I did not get pictures of.  You need to put the three handle screws in the "rear" of the handle first. Skip the screw that holds the lock bar as the lock bar is still out of the knife. Put in the main pivot pin and tighten loosely. Don't forget a small amount of loctite on all screws including the pivot pin screw. The pin shown is th eone you skip.









Once you get all the other screws in you are ready for the lock bar. Pull the lockbar pin out so it is still in one side of the scale and flush so you can lay in the lockbar. Position the lockbar as it would be engaged into the blade tang. The blade should be about 80% open from what I experienced. You will then have to push down on the lock bar on both sides of the pin to line up the hole. Once you have it lined up push the pin through. Loctite the screw and screw it in. Once you have done all this go back and snug up the handle screws, but make sure you do not over tighten. Adjust your pivot screw to your desired blade tension and make sure the blade is centered. YOUR DONE!









Something to note for any Spyderco (or other knife) disassemble or even pocket clip change. When you put in ANY screw you want to place the screw over the hole. Engage the screw in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE or ANTI CLOCKWISE direction first. Go slow and you will eventually feel a click and the screw drop slightly into the hole. You are now good to screw CLOCKWISE and screw it in. If you do not do this you can easily cross thread and damage things which is a HUGE pain in the smurf. You should always do this when changing the pocket clip screws as well. You should also always tape the blade edge with painters tape. I did not, but do as I say not as I do. 

[SAK Guy]

Good stuff Cap!!

[mrynnr]

Nice! Thanks Capt!

[kmanct3]

Thanks Capt. I have one to do this weekend

[captain spaulding]

Glad to help.

Kmanct3, if you have any specific questions let me know. 

[SteveC]

Nice tutorial 

[captain spaulding]

One thing I forgot to mention is there is a small washer around the screw that goes with the pivot pin of the blade. Don't lose it.

[captain spaulding]

Nice tutorial 

Thank you. Honestly I did not even know if I was going to post it. I was just taking pictures for myself. If I had know I was going to post it I would of went more in depth with the pictures and explaining things more. I think this is enough for anyone who might need the info though. 

[super m]

Informative thanks.


Don't be a tool ... Talk tools

[bdAmmo]

Nice walk thru Capt and sweet Delica

[hiraethus]

I noticed something concerning. The cutout on the tang for the lock bar to fall into is ground strangely in my opinion. I will be contacting Spyderco about this.


(Image removed from quote.)

I'd be interested to hear from Spyderco on this Capt.  The semi-circular cutouts in the corners are to give clearance for the sharp corners of the lock but I can't work out why they might have that step in the bottom face.  Maybe it's so they can machine/grind the surfaces separately to adjust the fit of the locking mechanism to remove any play without affecting the other edges.

[this_is_nascar]

Great write-up and very informative.


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[NetsNJ]

Something to note for any Spyderco (or other knife) disassemble or even pocket clip change. When you put in ANY screw you want to place the screw over the hole. Engage the screw in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE or ANTI CLOCKWISE direction first. Go slow and you will eventually feel a click and the screw drop slightly into the hole. You are now good to screw CLOCKWISE and screw it in. If you do not do this you can easily cross thread and damage things which is a HUGE pain in the smurf. You should always do this when changing the pocket clip screws as well.

Excellent tip, I had never thought of that but it makes sense.   

[captain spaulding]

Something to note for any Spyderco (or other knife) disassemble or even pocket clip change. When you put in ANY screw you want to place the screw over the hole. Engage the screw in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE or ANTI CLOCKWISE direction first. Go slow and you will eventually feel a click and the screw drop slightly into the hole. You are now good to screw CLOCKWISE and screw it in. If you do not do this you can easily cross thread and damage things which is a HUGE pain in the smurf. You should always do this when changing the pocket clip screws as well.

Excellent tip, I had never thought of that but it makes sense.   

Glad to help. Most people do not do this or even know to do this. 

[captain spaulding]

I noticed something concerning. The cutout on the tang for the lock bar to fall into is ground strangely in my opinion. I will be contacting Spyderco about this.


(Image removed from quote.)

I'd be interested to hear from Spyderco on this Capt.  The semi-circular cutouts in the corners are to give clearance for the sharp corners of the lock but I can't work out why they might have that step in the bottom face.  Maybe it's so they can machine/grind the surfaces separately to adjust the fit of the locking mechanism to remove any play without affecting the other edges.

They sent me a reply email with the standard "send it in to warranty and see what we think".  I clearly stated I wanted to send pictures to see what they think. I hate when companies send generic replies. Time to send them another email. 

[Boaz]

Very nice write up, it's great to see some preventative steps taken to help ensure the longevity of your knife.

[HarleyXJGuy]

Very cool.

I have 12 Spydies on my way to you for this free service.

Thanks.

[captain spaulding]

Very cool.

I have 12 Spydies on my way to you for this free service.

Thanks.

Send 12 get 10 back. Sound like a even trade to me.

[HarleyXJGuy]

Very cool.

I have 12 Spydies on my way to you for this free service.

Thanks.

Send 12 get 10 back. Sound like a even trade to me.

Sigh.

[captain spaulding]

Very cool.

I have 12 Spydies on my way to you for this free service.

Thanks.

Send 12 get 10 back. Sound like a even trade to me.

Sigh.

 

[shark_za]

I find this quite intriguing.
What do you exactly wish to get out of Spyderco?

Is the knife not working in any way?

[sLaughterMed]

I find this quite intriguing.
What do you exactly wish to get out of Spyderco?

Is the knife not working in any way?

I believe this falls under the category of "morbid curiosity"

[captain spaulding]

I find this quite intriguing.
What do you exactly wish to get out of Spyderco?

Is the knife not working in any way?

Not sure what you are asking in bold? 

I took it apart because there was a issue and I wanted to see what was causing it. I also wanted to give it a quick wipe down to the internal parts and oil the washers properly.

[jekostas]

The extra cutout in the bottom of the tang where the lock slots in is for clearance when the lock is engaged or disengaged - the bottom of the locking bar would be at an angle with the corners fitting in to the round cutouts.



Uh, sorry, that shouldn't be hard to figure, guys.  It's certainly not any kind of "flaw".

[toolguy]

Great pictorial.

This reminds me of the time when my wife finished her shower and claimed there was no more hot water.I suspected something was wrong,so I checked the water heater.I found the burner wasn't lit.I then attempted to relight it but was met with failure.Hey,I'm the toolguy and I can do this.LOL.

I decided to check youtube to try and determine the problem.I found a video that explained the problem and how to remedy it.I then drove to the hardware store,bought a $12.00 thermal couple and made the repair.Without this video I may have resorted to calling the repair man.

My point is that a video,or in this case a pictorial,can provide the necessary information to perform maintenance or make a proper repair.

Kudos Cap't.

[captain spaulding]

The extra cutout in the bottom of the tang where the lock slots in is for clearance when the lock is engaged or disengaged - the bottom of the locking bar would be at an angle with the corners fitting in to the round cutouts.



Uh, sorry, that shouldn't be hard to figure, guys.  It's certainly not any kind of "flaw".

Just to clear things up I am not concerned about the half circle cutout in the corner, but rather the "step down".

I have circled what I am speaking of. The smaller circle is the part I am referring to. Is this what you are speaking of?

[captain spaulding]

I made a specific folder to NOT be deleted so this thread would have the pictures indefinitely. I only renamed the folder on PB so I guess it broke the links. I will fix it hopefully tonight sometime.

[captain spaulding]

Mods if you...

zoid edit: done.   

[captain spaulding]

A update on the lockbar and tang cutout. I was told by Spyderco after a few emails this was normal and as long as there is no play in the blade while locked I should not worry at all. There is no play so I am not worried. 

[kirk13]

That was very interesting Cap,thank you