I don;t know what passivation is but it seems to me that a "rough" finish like bead blast would hold more microscopic particles and moisture better, which would definately increase rust development.Or something.Def
....At the end of the week (or at the end of a particular dirty job) I flush them under a tap to clean them out, dry them and oil them with 3 in 1 or gun oil (WD 40 is not viscous enough IMO).....
Good points Damota! I usually use a mineral oil found at a local pharmacy for next to nothing for a jug. It's food safe (it's meant to be ingested!) and it works without gumming up the knife or tool.Def
OK Def - here goes.Let's start with good old carbon steel (not stainless steel). When steel is exposed to an electrolyte such as water, the iron reacts with the electrolyte to form ferric or ferrous oxide: RUST. If the rust were to form in a very uniform and non-porous film, rusting would stop as the underlying steel would be protected. In short, this would mean that the steel had gone from "active" (Ready to react) to a "passive" or protected state. Some thirty years ago, there were steels developed for architectural use where the need for painting was suppossedlly eliminated. These were called "Cor-Ten" steels if my memory serves me. They were less than a rousing market success. The bluing used to protect the surface of steel firearms is a form of rust.Stainless steel can also oxidize or rust. However, if the manufacturer utilized some properties of one of the alloying element, chromium, found in the stainless steel, rusting can be minimized to the point that good washing after use followed by proper drying will protect the surface against rust. If a stainless part is machined, its surface is in the active condition. If that surface is allowed to sit in the air, the combination of the oxygen in the humidity (water) and the chromium in the stainless will result in the formation of chromium oxidess. These form a much denser oxide than the ferric or ferrous oxides mentioned above. In fact, once the chrome oxide layer becomes about three molecules thick, the corrosion process stops and the stainless is passive. In some cases, the valve industry in which I've spent almost forty years receives requirements that the stainless be passivated after machining. This is done by immersing the parts in a solution of warm nitric acid (source of oxygen) to form a thicker chrome oxide layer. Unfortunately, chromium oxides have one major enemy that will rupture this film and that is found in any number of chloride compound from salt water to sweat. Once the film ruptures, rust will occur onless the chlorides are rinsed away and the presence of fresh water allows repassivation in the ruptured areas.I think one of the reasons why bead blasted surfaces may rust easier than polished is that the bead blasting creates little pockets which are more difficult to properly flush when exposed to chlorides.Def - hope I didn't make your eyes glaze over - Joe
Congratulations on your new toy Navajero! (Boy, there's just nothing like that extremely short temporary satisfaction you get with the arrival of a new multi tool.) Now then, as the newest member of the Official SideClip Owner's Club, we'll need to know a few things:1) Does your SideClip have a bead blast matte finish, or a brushed shiny finish?2) What are the four date codes stamped on the inside of the handles?3) And do you like, or dislike, the way Leatherman ground one side of the plier heads down so they can grip objects flush to a surface?
I have done it also!My "used" Sideclip arrived from E-Bay this morning1) Its the bead blast matte finish2) All four date codes are 01983) I assumed that the plier head was ground to allow a bit of clearance, in addition to the spacer washer, between the pliers and the knife?It's a few years since I handled a Sideclip, plenty of memories coming back do you ever forget your first multitool, the thing that strikes me is that the pliers look a bit anorexic compared to the latter day LM tools.Although I can't remember the sideclip letting me down all those years ago I'd certainly not use/abuse it the way I have my Supertool 200 and Core etc....Rob