Like I said, it was probably buried for decades. That is the cleaned up version after soaking in oil for a week and then hammering it to knock the flakes of surface rust off of it and filing it for over 2 hours to get a semblance of an edge on it.I'm thinking of taking off this handle and trying to clean more of the rust off of it by giving it a cola soak. I didn't know about that method when I did this. Then I'm thinking of using an epoxy resin to fill the gaps and bond it to the handle. Does that sound like something that should be done? Would that make this axe actually usable? As it stands now I'm afraid to use it too hard because the head might fly off the handle. That's why I bought the Fiskars to chop out the root.
Can we see a picture of the eye PleaseIf the head is tight I would try using it (Putting linseed oil on the wood will tighten a handle) An axe doesn’t have to be smooth to be useable, my rustiest
Thanks, I’ve used axes with gaps in before Alan you will probably be fine If it comes loose I would give the handle a good wack to make sure it’s seatedthen try driving the wedge in a bit more, possibly adding a metal cross wedge then oil the wood But oil is always good
I'm now wondering if there is someone who got a edge cover when what they needed was a replacement X11.
Quote from: Gareth on August 05, 2016, 02:27:43 PMI'm now wondering if there is someone who got a edge cover when what they needed was a replacement X11. I was wondering that myself. I think I will make a cover out of plastic but of a similar design to your leather cover. Right now, all of the axes are leaning against a wall where I hope they are out of the way, but if somebody (me) were to stub their toe on an axe in the middle of the night, the axe would win. Or, another way to put it, stub your toe on an axe and you could really stub your toe.