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The great Rustproofing and lube thread

us Offline SteelRaven

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The great Rustproofing and lube thread
on: October 14, 2016, 11:50:18 AM
 :pok: I hope.

I put this here because in a survival situation the proper maintainence of modern MTs and knives is a MUST. In all likely hood in a SMURF HTF sitchimikation, if your tool is dull, sticky, whatever it is harder to use at best or DANGEROUS in the worst case.

Now I realize everybody has their favorite lube and rustproof oil/lube/grease/ wax, bear grease etc

I've narrowed mine down to two approaches.

One: EEZOX for rust prevention.

I've put this stuff on BARE A2 tool steel and left it in its properly treated high quality leather sheath for almost 3 years now...a Blackjack halo 14 Randall clone.

No rust or pitting. 60 % humidity, cold heat, summers in SC and TN. The only thing I've ever noticed is a small speck or two of patina! Occasional checks and wipe downs and no edge degrading.

If its stainless, forget it. Put EEZOX ON and it will Never rust without ocean environment...I guess.

See I have old sea dog skin and I sweat like a racehorse. No I've never been in the Navy, but I did work in a gunsmith shoppe and the guy cringed when I handled blued steel! Doesn't matter what I do unless it's wear latex gloves. I'm not kidding. One damn bit!

I handle steel that's treated with EEZOX everyday. No problem

Problem is...it's toxic. Most CLPS are. You don't want it on your skin for long periods or breathing a bunch of it either.

But it works. I've used it over 25 years shooting

Second Sentry solutions Tuff Glide, Marine TG and related products for lube.

EEZOX AIN'T THE BEST LUBE IMHO, YMMV.

I put marine TG ON MY SOG TOMCAT 3.0 right after purchase and no joke, ice on ice slick....smooth as a baby's butt!
SCARY FAST THUMB OPENER!! Not assisted...I'm using TG for lube in very small amounts. It doesn't take very much at all.

I haven't tested TG products on firearms or for RP capability, but I will, and I'll update on this thread afterward.

TG and TG marine are LESS TOXIC...don't eat em, wash and dry your pocket knife if ya use it to eat with, wash again and retreat.

Marine TG was developed at the request of USN SEALS, and has worked for them for years from what I understand.

You can't cross the streams, TG is a pure mineral spirit driven dry lube system, and EEZOX is synthetic 100%.

If they gum up, wash with 90% isopropyl alcohol or denatured, which ever one is safer for the tool and reapply.

One of my main concerns it degradation of washers and polymer spacers in knife pivots after exposure to repeated doses of ANY CLP....

I DO NOT SELL THESE PRODUCTS, nor am I trying to do so.

So what do you use and why?
« Last Edit: October 14, 2016, 11:56:47 AM by SteelRaven »
"As a matter of Survival, all creatures are fair game"


Les Stroud.


no Offline Steinar

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Re: The great Rustproofing and lube thread
Reply #1 on: October 14, 2016, 12:45:17 PM
Ballistol – Food safe, simple, penetrates well, I like the smell.

Pure mineral oil (liquid paraffin if you're in the UK) – Food safe, simple, cheap, if there is something which Ballistol's slight basicity may mar, or I want to avoid any smell.

Basically I just wipe stuff down. I have no fancy stories on tying multitools to masts in storms or references to special forces teams, but basically just some grease has been enough for my use of steel over the years.


us Offline SteelRaven

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Re: The great Rustproofing and lube thread
Reply #2 on: October 14, 2016, 07:32:46 PM
I love BALLISTOL for most leather stuff, all stainless firearms cleaning etc. before considering Tuf Glide, it was my go to lube.

Then I had some nickel plating that was severely affected by it that WAS NOT in a closed environment...and well here we are now.

I'm still not going to chunk it. Any CLP worth the can its been put in will find a crack and get in and under that opening.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2016, 07:34:03 PM by SteelRaven »
"As a matter of Survival, all creatures are fair game"


Les Stroud.


gb Offline AimlessWanderer

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Re: The great Rustproofing and lube thread
Reply #3 on: October 15, 2016, 01:10:10 AM
I use liquid paraffin as Steinar pointed out. It's foodsafe, coats and lubricates. I don't take any out with me though, I just use it at home.

I've stopped taking carbon steel anywhere. I don't use it for food either. I also try to avoid the use of folders for food prep. If I am away from a domestic setting, I will take a stainless knife. Taking a picnic is also my "good reason" for taking a fixed blade knife. Why worry about how to compensate for using the wrong tools, when you can just take the right tools. The marine environments I'm used to are inland, so the additional corrosion from salt is not a factor to me. Top knife choices for a jaunt for me are a HiVis Mora, or a Boker+ TUF dependent on how much food prep I expect. The Mora is more wood biased, and the TUF makes an excellent chefs knife. Cold Steel Roach Belly is another knife I'd consider.

The only carbon steel tools I would consider (prior to current health complications) is my roofing tool. The only one piece multitool I have much respect for. My friends across the pond would recognise it as an old crate opener - combined hatchet, hammer, and pry bar..... and possibly a Bahco Laplander. However, I don't tend to plan trips which would need tools of this calibre.

The other items I take on a jaunt a pocket knife, and a multitool of some description. They would leave the house in good condition, be used within it's limits, and I'll clean them up when I get back. The only maintenance I should have to do when out and about is sharpening, but only if I end up with some heavy work, or have some kind of mishap. If I need to do other maintenance, then I have badly planned my tool choices. The current hot choices for these two are a Case Scout Jr, which I can attache to a neck lanyard along with other goodies that get carried with (AAA light, whistle, Exotac firestarter, compass), and a modified orange and black Fuse that I put together myself. As ultimate back up, I have a Vic Compact in my FAK

I protect leather with Wimlas Bear Grease, but again this is applied at home, and my tool choices generally mean I won't be carrying leather out with me anyway.


The cantankerous but occasionally useful member, formally known as 50ft-trad


 

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