Leatherman that cuts... glass!

[IvanDrago]

Yep, that's possible!





But let's start from the very beginning...
I had had a small crack in my old LM Pulse and received Rebar after the warranty claim. But the new Rebar had some defect in pliers axle. Instead of waiting for another replacement, I decided to repair the axle by myself. It was a good opportunity to add DIY pocket clip there. The clip needed to be attached to some piece of metal, so I decided to use a tip of old circle glass-cutter.

Glass cutter, Rebar and Sharpie:

Glass cutter tip needs bo be cut out


It will be attached here:

but first I need to unscrew axle and drill a hole in corner. That hole will be a nest for brass pin that will prevent glass cutter and clip from twisting and bending.

the same position of holes drilled in glass-cutting tip:

Pressing brass pin using vice

The pin protrudes 1 mm beyond the tip surface

enough to lock the glass cutter in place but not too much, as it should not touch pliers in any position


I remain flat part with "2.00 mm" stamp, just because I like it

[Poncho65]

  Very cool Ivan

[IvanDrago]

To make a clip I used 2mm stainless TIG welding rod. Quite springy, but possible to bend without heating

I remain flat part with "2.00 mm" stamp, just because I like it
Next step was to drill another holes in glass-cutting tip, squeeze rod there and solder everything (to fill all gaps)



After soldering all holes are filled and the surface is very rough...

...so again drilling and some file work. Of course using Rebar file

almost finished top

and bottom of clip

The original thread in LM axle is quite strange in diameter (imperial?), so I had made metric 3.5 mm and put longer screw there.



That tiny wheel is the part that cuts the glass.
After polishing:

Definitely not a "deep carry", but I am quite happy anyway

Now I try to find a way to make it black, as it is a bit too shiny and draws people's attention.

Sorry for my poor English and blurred photos - I was focused more on the job to be done than playing with camera and light

[magentus]

Now that's a mod I've never seen before! Good work Ivan 

[Mechanickal]

Very nice job!
10/10 for originality!

[Sparky415]

Very nice job!
10/10 for originality!

^^^^ This 

[zoidberg]

Badge awarded.   

[IvanDrago]

Badge awarded.   

Thank you Sir

Just to let you know, now I'm working on 1/4 hex bit socket on the second pliers axle in my Rebar

[IvanDrago]

but that's seems to be too difficult task for me: hours of work, 2 HSSCo drills broken, hardened screw twisted, still without success

[zoidberg]

Maybe try annealing the part first to soften it. Once you've done the work redo the heat treat.

[SteveC]

Sweet Mod   

[chrono]

Just an idea for that 1/4" drive:
- Purchase a 1/2" low-profile socket head cap screw (SHCS). This screw has 1/4" hex.
- Cut to length and turn the threaded portion to the same pin size of the Rebar.
- Drill two small holes on the screw's head. Drill two small holes on the Rebar handle (same size, same distance). Use two pins to "lock" screw in location.
- Drill and tap a hole on the turned end of that SHCS, same thread size as the Leatherman pin

Basically, I am suggesting a fabrication of the female screw replacement with addition of the 1/4" hex and dowel holes. Will be tough to tap the screw. If I am not mistaken, stainless screws are available.

[IvanDrago]

Just an idea for that 1/4" drive:
- Purchase a 1/2" low-profile socket head cap screw (SHCS). This screw has 1/4" hex.
- Cut to length and turn the threaded portion to the same pin size of the Rebar.
- Drill two small holes on the screw's head. Drill two small holes on the Rebar handle (same size, same distance). Use two pins to "lock" screw in location.
- Drill and tap a hole on the turned end of that SHCS, same thread size as the Leatherman pin

Basically, I am suggesting a fabrication of the female screw replacement with addition of the 1/4" hex and dowel holes. Will be tough to tap the screw. If I am not mistaken, stainless screws are available.

I had similar idea, as you can see in the last photo (the black nest is 1/4'' there). But I locked the screw by drilling through pliers' eyelet* and peeled screw and hammering fi 3mm perpendicular pin there with some Loctite glue. So the screw with hex socket was locked in pliers, not on the Rebar handle as you suggested. My solution worked perfect till I used allen-hex (6mm-1/4'') bit to unscrew old, rusted screw in my bike. The locking pin started to be loose and finally teared screw into two due to enormous torque there - the screw was 12.9 rank, so the most durable on market! I don't think the two holes in Rebar handle (as you suggested) could resist that as the handle is pretty soft stainless steel.

*drilling in LM pliers eyelet was the worst 3 mm in my life. The steel there is so hard that even cobalt drill was not sharp enough. Finally I used cheap carbide masonry drill I must sharpened every 30 seconds of drilling Never again!

[ducttapetech]

Wow! That is some nice modding!

[chrono]

Just an idea for that 1/4" drive:
- Purchase a 1/2" low-profile socket head cap screw (SHCS). This screw has 1/4" hex.
- Cut to length and turn the threaded portion to the same pin size of the Rebar.
- Drill two small holes on the screw's head. Drill two small holes on the Rebar handle (same size, same distance). Use two pins to "lock" screw in location.
- Drill and tap a hole on the turned end of that SHCS, same thread size as the Leatherman pin

Basically, I am suggesting a fabrication of the female screw replacement with addition of the 1/4" hex and dowel holes. Will be tough to tap the screw. If I am not mistaken, stainless screws are available.

I had similar idea, as you can see in the last photo (the black nest is 1/4'' there). But I locked the screw by drilling through pliers' eyelet* and peeled screw and hammering fi 3mm perpendicular pin there with some Loctite glue. So the screw with hex socket was locked in pliers, not on the Rebar handle as you suggested. My solution worked perfect till I used allen-hex (6mm-1/4'') bit to unscrew old, rusted screw in my bike. The locking pin started to be loose and finally teared screw into two due to enormous torque there - the screw was 12.9 rank, so the most durable on market! I don't think the two holes in Rebar handle (as you suggested) could resist that as the handle is pretty soft stainless steel.

*drilling in LM pliers eyelet was the worst 3 mm in my life. The steel there is so hard that even cobalt drill was not sharp enough. Finally I used cheap carbide masonry drill I must sharpened every 30 seconds of drilling Never again!

That is a regular SHCS. A low profile SHCS has thinner but wider head, thus you have some material to work with. The 2 pins in my idea provide 2 additional positive "locks" to the screw on the other side alone. We are talking about metal on metal here, not some glue. You also need to hold the close tolerance between the pins and the holes, make them slight press fit. You also need correct drill size and style, and proper set-up for the job, on a milling machine to ensure the holes are round, to size, and square to the surface. For the drill, you need self-center carbide drill used in metal working industry (I personally like those MDS/ MDW drills by Sumitomo). Lastly, the pins need to be hardened steel for strength.

I program CNC in a machine shop, so tend to think of full-blown set-up and production. 

[firiki]

Wow! That is some nice modding!

Yup, what Nate said 

[IvanDrago]

That is a regular SHCS. A low profile SHCS has thinner but wider head, thus you have some material to work with. The 2 pins in my idea provide 2 additional positive "locks" to the screw on the other side alone. We are talking about metal on metal here, not some glue. You also need to hold the close tolerance between the pins and the holes, make them slight press fit. You also need correct drill size and style, and proper set-up for the job, on a milling machine to ensure the holes are round, to size, and square to the surface. For the drill, you need self-center carbide drill used in metal working industry (I personally like those MDS/ MDW drills by Sumitomo). Lastly, the pins need to be hardened steel for strength.

Your idea is not bad, but have in mind that screws common in the US are quite rare in Europe. In my place I can barely find screw with 1/4'' hex socket, and I've never seen those with wider head

[Troels]

Wow! That is some nice modding!

Yup, what Nate said 

+1
Great work 

[chrono]

That is a regular SHCS. A low profile SHCS has thinner but wider head, thus you have some material to work with. The 2 pins in my idea provide 2 additional positive "locks" to the screw on the other side alone. We are talking about metal on metal here, not some glue. You also need to hold the close tolerance between the pins and the holes, make them slight press fit. You also need correct drill size and style, and proper set-up for the job, on a milling machine to ensure the holes are round, to size, and square to the surface. For the drill, you need self-center carbide drill used in metal working industry (I personally like those MDS/ MDW drills by Sumitomo). Lastly, the pins need to be hardened steel for strength.

Your idea is not bad, but have in mind that screws common in the US are quite rare in Europe. In my place I can barely find screw with 1/4'' hex socket, and I've never seen those with wider head

It looks like this (the second from left)


If you have problem with sourcing imperial-sized screws, why 1/4" drive but not 6mm? Shouldn't it easy to buy 6mm hex bits?

[IvanDrago]

If you have problem with sourcing imperial-sized screws, why 1/4" drive but not 6mm? Shouldn't it easy to buy 6mm hex bits?

In Europe we have metric-sized screws with metric heads in most places, but bits are imperial 1/4".