Question for the experts / knifeless explorer

[Dean51]

I tried searching and found no results.
So here goes, has anyone ever built a knifeless SAK  based on the explorer.?
Or is it even possible.

[Poncho65]

I tried searching and found no results.
So here goes, has anyone ever built a knifeless SAK  based on the explorer.?
Or is it even possible.

Don't think I have seen one done but I know it would have to be possible surely Just need to see what some of the experienced modders say about it because you do need that liner I think for the scales but surely something can be in place of it

[zoidberg]

What exactly are you after? Do you need the corkscrew? I've built the explorer minus the blades and corkscrew layer before.

[jaya_man]

Maybe this can help... @Syph007 shared this in his thread...

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=34772





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dean51]

What exactly are you after? Do you need the corkscrew? I've built the explorer minus the blades and corkscrew layer before.

I was thinking of removing the blades and hook keeping the cork screw for the mini driver.

I could remove the cork screw and blade layer. maybe .
I just don't know how much work or if it's possible to keep the cork screw.

[zoidberg]

What exactly are you after? Do you need the corkscrew? I've built the explorer minus the blades and corkscrew layer before.

I was thinking of removing the blades and hook keeping the cork screw for the mini driver.

Given the info jaya_man has posted above it looks very doable.

[s1xty7]

If you search for the word Explorer on this subforum's topic page, you will see a thread titled "Bladeless Explorer" http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,69380.0.html.

Personally, I just cut the blades and awl off for my young kids (finishing up the engraving step for the scales).

Good luck. You think Victorinox would have such a model already.

[Don Pablo]

That's my thread you linked, s1xty7. 
I finished version 3 a few weeks ago. My mod is complete.

What I did was place the bottle opener in place of the small blade, and the can opener in place of the large blade.

If using a SAK made after 2005, with the thin blade tang and stamped liner, the can opener fits without modification in the large blade spot.

The bottle opener, though, needs a washer, approx 0.39mm thick(thats how much thinner than the spring it is). I used 0.41mm (1/64) brass plate to make the washer and it turned out fine.
The washer should be as large as possible, bigger than the tang of the bottle opener! I learnt this the hard way in v2.


So how is it?

The openers sit about three times higher in the closed position than in the stock configuration.
This is due to the higher blade spring.
I don't mind this, and it doesn't really get in the way. 

The openers have more snap than stock.
The can opener could use a 0.16mm(1/128) thick washer, but I'm not certain, and its only a hairs amount. 

The liners are slightly bent a little around the pivot areas, but that might have been my hammering.  Pretty sure its just cosmetic.

The nail nicks, though still facing the original direction, "feel" to me like they are on the wrong side. Just a minor niggle. 

Overall, I am satisfied with my first mod.
You can do this on any 91mm SAK with blade and opener layers.
(Never mind the battered scales in the pics.)

[Dean51]

Maybe this can help... @Syph007 shared this in his thread...

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=34772

(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I was looking for Thanks to you and Syph007  
4 layers is one layer to many for me.
I always have a traditional style knife and habitually reach for it If I need a blade. So except for the pioneer I never use a SAK blade.
It will be like a modified yeoman.

[jaya_man]

Maybe this can help... @Syph007 shared this in his thread...

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=34772

(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I was looking for Thanks to you and Syph007  
4 layers is one layer to many for me.
I always have a traditional style knife and habitually reach for it If I need a blade. So except for the pioneer I never use a SAK blade.
It will be like a modified yeoman.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaya_man]

That's my thread you linked, s1xty7. 
I finished version 3 a few weeks ago. My mod is complete.

What I did was place the bottle opener in place of the small blade, and the can opener in place of the large blade.

If using a SAK made after 2005, with the thin blade tang and stamped liner, the can opener fits without modification in the large blade spot.

The bottle opener, though, needs a washer, approx 0.39mm thick(thats how much thinner than the spring it is). I used 0.41mm (1/64) brass plate to make the washer and it turned out fine.
The washer should be as large as possible, bigger than the tang of the bottle opener! I learnt this the hard way in v2.


So how is it?

The openers sit about three times higher in the closed position than in the stock configuration.
This is due to the higher blade spring.
I don't mind this, and it doesn't really get in the way. 

The openers have more snap than stock.
The can opener could use a 0.16mm(1/128) thick washer, but I'm not certain, and its only a hairs amount. 

The liners are slightly bent a little around the pivot areas, but that might have been my hammering.  Pretty sure its just cosmetic.

The nail nicks, though still facing the original direction, "feel" to me like they are on the wrong side. Just a minor niggle. 

Overall, I am satisfied with my first mod.
You can do this on any 91mm SAK with blade and opener layers.
(Never mind the battered scales in the pics.)

Switch the can and bottle opener position... solves 2 things... nail nick accessibility and knife handle wont get in the way when using the can opener to open cans...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Don Pablo]

That's my thread you linked, s1xty7. 
I finished version 3 a few weeks ago. My mod is complete.

What I did was place the bottle opener in place of the small blade, and the can opener in place of the large blade.

If using a SAK made after 2005, with the thin blade tang and stamped liner, the can opener fits without modification in the large blade spot.

The bottle opener, though, needs a washer, approx 0.39mm thick(thats how much thinner than the spring it is). I used 0.41mm (1/64) brass plate to make the washer and it turned out fine.
The washer should be as large as possible, bigger than the tang of the bottle opener! I learnt this the hard way in v2.


So how is it?

The openers sit about three times higher in the closed position than in the stock configuration.
This is due to the higher blade spring.
I don't mind this, and it doesn't really get in the way. 

The openers have more snap than stock.
The can opener could use a 0.16mm(1/128) thick washer, but I'm not certain, and its only a hairs amount. 

The liners are slightly bent a little around the pivot areas, but that might have been my hammering.  Pretty sure its just cosmetic.

The nail nicks, though still facing the original direction, "feel" to me like they are on the wrong side. Just a minor niggle. 

Overall, I am satisfied with my first mod.
You can do this on any 91mm SAK with blade and opener layers.
(Never mind the battered scales in the pics.)

Switch the can and bottle opener position... solves 2 things... nail nick accessibility and knife handle wont get in the way when using the can opener to open cans...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm happy as it is... its only two layers so I can still open cans. I'll remember that though, in case I pull it apart again.