Good work Grant! Closed cell foam is great stuff. If you have any left over you could pad the cockpit for comfort and control.Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk
Yeah, riveting the handles wasn't a big deal, but the rigging for the rudder was a bit involved. Pretty straightfoward if you know what you are doing, but if you've never done it before it seems a bit overly complex.Now I see why everything is done the way it is and it makes perfect sense.I hope you are still billing for the whole shift.... Def
I can't begin to imagine what it would cost to have that work done. Nice for you to take on that project, but mostly getting the boat in shape.
Quote from: Aloha007 on May 23, 2017, 03:30:36 PMI can't begin to imagine what it would cost to have that work done. Nice for you to take on that project, but mostly getting the boat in shape. If I had to guess, I'd say probably around $45/hour and a three hour minimum, plus materials and taxes, so I'd probably be into the whole thing for a couple of hundred dollars at least. As it was, I think the rivets (special kayak rivets ) cost around $7 for a bag of 20-ish, the replacement handles cost somewhere around $16 each and the cable cost somewhere around $1.50/foot and I bought about 30 feet because I thought I'd have to replace the hard lines too.Boat parts is a good racket to be in for sure.... Def
All in all I probably have a couple of hours into the repair,
Boat parts is a good racket to be in for sure....
Perhaps it's me but I have had issues raising and lowering the rudder on nearly every kayak I have hired... I believe the mechanism could be designed better.
I keep meaning to get there. So far I've been to MEC, Cabelas, Sail and Jenda.Def
I have been there three times this week already- I can't wait for the Princess Auto to open up next door! As if Cabelas didn't already cost enough, one of my next great weakness stores is going in right next door!Def