Juice S2 mod

[BePrepared]

Here's my start on a Juice S2 mod 



A lot has been posted about modding the Juice line, so I won't go into the details.  Needless to say I had to remove the rivets using power tools.  PM me if you want more details about my experience... as you can see, I didn't destroy the scales, but they aren't pristine anymore.   

I may not put back the scales, as the skeltool look looks OK.

This is the S2 Juice where I cut down the blade to make it more EDC friendly in an office environment.  I put back the scissors on the blade side and put the blade on the other side with the corkscrew assist.  I plan to swap the blade for a package opener like this taken from a TaoTool / NexTool.



I haven't got any pivots yet as I wanted to make sure I could take apart the Juice.  Buying pivots from the US to ship to the UK is expensive --- since shipping is $20-$40 for an order! 

I have an idea for replacing the corkscrew assist, but I'll save that for later.   

If I'm successful, watch this space 

Also, any suggestions welcomed.

[MusicMen]

   Good Luck   

[Vidar]

Sounds interesting - keep us posted

[Poncho65]

What those guys said Can't wait to see what becomes of this

[BePrepared]

Endless possibilities...



No backsprings fitted yet, and I'd need to do some work with a Dremel to follow up on this design, but the unit does close fully.

[pa_strunk]

Very cool 

[kingofswords]

thats look great.

does the bit holder have same size pivot hole?

[BePrepared]

The Wave bit holder is unlikely to work in a Juice mod.     The bit holder hole is too large (but that's not the real problem).  The bit holder is probably too wide (not thick or long) [I mean wide as in the 2nd largest dimension of the piece], and would need a lot of work with something like a Dremel to cut it down to fit, but that may mean taking it down too much so it no longer functions properly.  (The pic were taken without backsprings in place.)  So, I am going back to the original plan and just replacing the original blade with the TaoTool package opener.  The problem now is that I need to drill out the hole in the package opener, and when I tried I barely scratched it!  I'll have another go at the weekend again.  I think I need to drill slowly and cool it as I go, and probably find the best drills I can source.

Oh, and in the skele-tool format the differences in thickness of the original S2 is much less noticeable.

[Vidar]

If that package opener is hardened steel you might want to use a carbide tipped spade drill or a die drill bit with negative edge. (The die drill have straight flutes so they are easy to tell apart from normal twisted drill bits. Drill press recommended).



,

[BePrepared]

Well, that package opener is tough.  I cannot drill through with my current bits, so may need to get some carbide ones.  And then I'd have to reshape it a little as well, to fit the Juice.  So.... I decided to try a Slimline version.



At moment it's held together with standard nut and bolt (metric, so 3mm diameter vs the 1/8 inch holes at 3.125mm.)  I wanted to put the backsprings back, to see how difficult it is (not too difficult.)  Good thing I learnt is that the tension on the nut/bolt does not need to be too tight, as pressure from the backsprings seem to keep everything in place.



Proper 1/8" pivots are difficult to find in the UK.  I have some 1/8" x 1" copper rivets, and could get some in brass --- and should be easier to install as now that I know the tightness does not need to come from the rivets.  But maybe I'll be very lazy and just cut off the excess bolt and locktitie it!

Edit: those of you with eagle-eyes will notice I put the flat drivers back the wrong way.  That's now fixed and I also added the scissors layer.

[BePrepared]

So next I try the wave bit holders... *



It's not perfect.  There are no backsprings fitted and I have not done anything to the oversized pivot holes.  (I guess I could use some soda-pop/ soft-drink can metal, cut and rolled up to fill the annular  gap.)



I can fit a backspring on the wide bit holder, and the bit holder moves and locks into position, but it's held strongly by the spring with extra tension.  Also, with backspring fitted the bit holder does not close into the Juice.  Without backspring the bit holders fold back nicely.



So currently I have no back springs fitted.  This actually is workable, if I hold my thumb against the bit holder when in use.

EDIT: I took off the "Stelvin" metal sleeve found around a bottle of wine.  I think it's aluminium.  Cut a thin strip and wrapped it around the bolt/pivot 2 times, with width just the same width size as the bit holder, then slipped the bit holder over this "shim".  The should reduce some of the play in the movement around the bolt/pivot.

* No Wave's were harmed during this mod.  I used spare pieces I bought from the interweb.

[BePrepared]

I don't like unused space, so I added a large driver from a fuse/blast next to the small bit holder, as a kind of prybar.  I'll probably cut a V-notch in the end.



I swapped the large bit holder to the pliers side, but I'm not sure of this yet.

Only problem now is the pliers tip do not touch --- I'd have the same problem if I swapped large bit holder with small holder/prybar.  Only if I removed the prybar would I get the pliers tip to touch.



But if I squeeze the handles, the pliers tip do touch, so for far that's OK.

If I like this layout I may go the the locktite next!   

[Vidar]

You might end up having to modify the sizes of those added tools?

[BePrepared]

While it was nice having outside opening bit holder, I could not figure out an (easy) way to get them to lock.     So I went back to Plan A.



I used a 3mm dia diamond file to finish opening up the hole in the package opener blade (taken from the NexTool TaoTool).  I had trouble drilling out the hole, and the diamond file and some elbow grease finally did the job.  I also used a Dremel to reshape the tang to match that from other juice pieces (i.e. the original blade.)  I also kept the small bit holder, to keep this layer wide enough not to stop pliers and inside tools opening.



I fitted the backspring to the package opener blade, and used wide washers opposite the small bit holder, to keep the backspring from moving across.  The new blade also locks into open position.  The small bit holder does not have a back spring fitted.  This isn't such a bad thing as the small drivers will not be used with much force...



I need to grind off some of the top edge of the package opener, as it sticks out too far.  I may remove the small bit holder, and grind down the piece that holds the backspring, as it is too wide for a single blade and would block the pliers from opening/closing and the inside tools if I only had one blade inside.  (Or find another juice with the right sized piece.)  This would also mean both handles were same thickness.

I think I'm close to a final set of tools/mod.  I think I will get some proper pivots (oh,  the shipping costs from the USA...!  ) to finish it off.  I had thought of putting back the scales, but ideally I'd like to use 4 different coloured scales...     but would mean killing 3 more juices     So maybe I stay with a skeletool look.   

[BePrepared]

I didn't like the uneven sized handles, so I ground down the frame holding the package opener, reprofiled the mini bit holder to match a Juice shape, and cut down the mini screwdriver.  I also took some material off the back of the package opener so the pliers touch.  This is it:



The backspring for the package opener now also holds the mini bit holder in place (the holder is a bit tight, I may need to grind off a fraction of the bit holder, or it may work itself out with use). 



The handles are now just about the same thickness.  All tools open and close, and lock into open position.



I'm just about there with this.  I think it deserves proper pivots, so I'll order these soon.  The reason I started this was because I wanted something more EDC office friendly --- even the new Juice range (i.e. smaller) blades look a little aggressive in an office or on the streets.  I'm happy with this!    YMMV   

Now all I need a name for this Juice contraption.... 

[Vidar]

The name is clearly the most important bit! 

Looking good. I didn't even think of elbow grease and diamond file for making that hole. Adapt and overcome I guess.

[Poncho65]

Looking good so far

[BePrepared]

Here is the missing image (I deletaed the original from imgur by accident.)

[King_Gorilla]

when you are all done, do you plan to put some scales back on or leave it with that skeleton look???

[BePrepared]

I put some 1/8"  (3.175mm) copper rivets in, instead of the 3mm nut and bolt I had been using during testing (copper was only 1/8" diameter I could source easily in UK).  But I don't think I can peen down the rivet well enough (my lack of skill, experience, and proper tools) to get a good finish and look, and the correct tightness/looseness I need to make all tools open nicely.  But as I discovered, the tools are held tight partly by the force of the backsprings, not the rivet compression --- hence when people remove the scales (or say the scales rattle) it indicates some gap between the rivet head and steel frame, so I think there is some tolerance in there.  Anyway, I think pivots would be better, so I finally ordered some from a USA, despite the international shipping costs.

I *might* put some scales on it.  I don't like the two-colour standard scales (orange / steel) and would prefer full colour.  My current scales are slightly damaged, so could go back on, but I have my eye on a damaged old style S2 on E-bay, and the scales from that would fit nicely!  My IDEAL would be the new type colour scales form the Juices, but one of each colour!  Orange, green, blue, yellow.... but I don't see myself doing that because of the cost and need to carefully remove the scales wiyhout too much damage.

So I may leave it skeletool-like, but I'm not sure.  I'm also investigating a possible cerakote for the steel frame.  Watch this space.   

[Sam Lim]

For the scissors u would need some amount of tightness between the scales to work. I took apart my old xe6 and used back the original rivet though. I had no experience working with rivet. So my first one was rather bad. The other 3 were much better. I found out after the first one, the key was to how short u need to leave to properly peen a rivet.

[Poncho65]

Can't wait to see it

[BePrepared]

My pivots arrived.  I gave up waiting for a reply about cerakote coating the frame, and decided to assemble the Juice and use the original scales.

The pivots needed some grinding/polishing down to get the right diameter (stick them in a dremel and applied a diamond file).  It was fairly easy to shorten the pivots and screws too (grind down in a dremel).

I put the unit back together, with all backsprings in place.  It felt tighter using these pivots (1/8" versus the 3mm nut and bolt I used for testing) especially for the Philips drive.  After about 10 minutes one of the backsprings broke.   



I still cannot find the other part of the backspring.  The backspring just shot out of the Juice and hit the ceiling.  Luckily it didn't hit me!

I have one thin backspring left over, so I put that in, but it rattles and does not really hold the Philips driver firmly.  Need to find another Juice for parts...     And the try again!

[Don Pablo]

 


Could the pivots have broke the backspring?

[BePrepared]

I think it could be a combination of three things.

1) the pivots should be OK, as they are 1/8" and same diameter as original rivets, but my test unit used 3mm (not 3.125mm = 1/8") nut and bolt and I think this added some slack to the previous builds
2) the large backsprings for the plierhead and Philips were put back wrong way --- think of the 2 backsprings as left and right, and you can see small rounding on the corners. I put them back in wrong order, but it's hard to see the difference.  I think in past I had done it in right order, and maybe that eased some pressure on the springs.
3) I've hit the backsprings a good few times with a hammer, to get them back into position   

It didn't feel right when it was re-assembled, and I think it is down to (2) mostly, and a combination of the other factors probably didn't help.

But the good thing I did learn is that re-sizing the pivots isn't too hard.  I had bought 12 and expected to damage 1 or 2, but so far (fingers crossed) they worked out OK.  So I still have 2 sets of 4 for other projects.... (maybe a Squirt mod  ).

And I I found the other broken end of the backspring.

[BePrepared]

Found an old Juice S2 on E-bay, and used backspring from that as replacement.



Just about done.  Pivots and screws are ground down to about right size (maybe will do some minor touching up).  Back springs in place, and work well.  Decided to not add in the scales --- might try and paint the frame, but guess I need a decent acid etch primer.  Not 100% sure about the thin bit driver, and was considering replacing it with USB memory, but still exploring that option.

[BePrepared]

Since I had the other parts from the spare S2 (and not enough plier backsprings to build a new juice) I decided to add them and go to a KF4 style.  Backsprings fitted and all tools work, handles close properly, and pliers work.



The inside tools are standard.  The knife and scissors are standard juice (old style long knife).  I added the package opener from the TaoTool (black hooked and curved blade) and the small bit holder from a Wave.  The tools at the opposite end of the black blade and small bit holder are the large and small flat drivers from the old style juice.  I may usethe  large flat driver as a mini pry-bar type tool, and the small flat driver may end up as a small awl.

[BePrepared]

Here's the latest installment





I got some spare parts from wowaboro and this is the result!

[zoidberg]

An excellent first badge, congrats.      

[Breezy12]

An excellent first badge, congrats.      

agreed!