This is helping me understand how the mod works for sure! This is somewhat unrelated to the pivots but when you put your two openers opposite the phillips what did you have to do to fit them?
Very cool. You got lucky with being able to use 3mm pivots I think...
Quote from: Pablo O'Brien on July 30, 2017, 09:58:33 AMVery cool. You got lucky with being able to use 3mm pivots I think... Got lucky? Why go to all the trouble of drilling out the tools to 1/8" if 3mm pivots are available?
Forgot to mention that the screws I had were T6... Though some may come in T8?
Awesome and timely post. Well done - l believe your approach is the simplest l have seen.I too want to build an Alox with this exact layout.I've been holding off on buying the 1/8" pivots from the recommended place as they have a $US 50 minimum order (not including postage) for overseas buyers. A few questions;1) What is the thread size of the torx screws and where did you buy them from? Are they metric?2) Any idea of the source of the pivots?2) l thought l read somewhere on this site that you have to counterbore the inner surface of the scales slightly for the pivots - l believe this is so that the pivots take the load rather that the screws? Is it OK not to do this?CheersGeorge
Quote from: jaya_man on July 30, 2017, 08:09:25 AMForgot to mention that the screws I had were T6... Though some may come in T8? I was about to ask that, thanks. Imagine if SAKs came with torx screws. Man, the hours of fun we would have had.
Where did you find those torx screws/pivot barrels? Edit: just read all replies... nvm
Very cool thread
Here's an illustration of how the torx and pivot looks like... at least on my mod... as the diameter of the scale pivot holes are just right for the barrels, and there is enough length for the barrel to go through the scale, counterbore wasn't required...(Image removed from quote.)Maybe counterbore would be required for 1/8" barrels?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: jaya_man on July 30, 2017, 03:36:13 PMHere's an illustration of how the torx and pivot looks like... at least on my mod... as the diameter of the scale pivot holes are just right for the barrels, and there is enough length for the barrel to go through the scale, counterbore wasn't required...(Image removed from quote.)Maybe counterbore would be required for 1/8" barrels?Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkGreat sketch - shows the arrangement nicely. A couple of points to add, from my experience of similar mods (using 3mm brass pivots on all three points):1) cut the pivots as long as you possibly can. The more of the pivot that sticks into the scale the better. I assembled the knives onto longer plain rod, measured the overall thickess then subracted 2.5mm to get the final pivot length.2) countersink the ends of the pivot barrels if you can too - this allows the pivots to be longer and have more engagement with the scales for better snap.3) Make the countersinks in the scales as shallow as possible - again, to maximise the overlap between the pivot and the scale.The screws I used were metric M2x0.5mm with countersunk T6 heads, but I guess the ones Steve used are imperial/standard 2-56.
Great thread, and very useful Going back to the original motivation for a moment though, are we sure that it's the brass that's not up to the job. If the pins need repeening, they may be stretching, OR the peened heads may just be "settling" in the holes. I had this happen on one of my mods - everything was tight, but it became a little sloppy with gaps between layers without doing much work. The pins weren't stretching, but the peened heads were pulling in slightly. It may have been that when I was peening, the knife was adequately supported but not the pin itself, and this may have floated slightly when peening the second side.Hopefully that makes sense
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