Leatherman MUT mods, some questions

[Ravenroost]

Hey folks,

First post here, and I believe it is in the right sub forum apologies if it isn't.

I am a machinist by trade and about a year ago bought a Leatherman MUY to avoid trips to the toolbox.

As time went on i realized there were some shortcomings to the toolset for my particular applications.

Referencing a few posts here I was able to expand that toolset by replacing the carbon scraper with a file. Which was pretty cool.

However I've now hit a bit of a wall: I want to replace the pin punch with a bit driver (A full size 1/4 drive, which looks like I'll have to make some body modifications for, and machine a custom driver)

However that particular Torx bit at the hinge is unlike any I've ever encountered before, and figured someone may be able to advise?

It appears to be a standard 6 point, but with standing steel in the center? If I modified a regular torx bit to have a mating female hole on center would that work to remove the screw? Or is it going to be more complicated then that?

The reason I am asking instead of just getting a Charge TTI (which has all the toolset I want and some additions) is the hammer portion is incredibly useful in my line of work for "precision blunt force persuasion" on drift pins, taper pins, and dowels. Or for light lineup tasks to tap parts around for machining operations.

Thanks folks.

[Dutch_Tooler]

The description fits a Security Torx bit. Don't own a MUT myself but I gather this should be a Torx 10 in the security version. These are widely available on the WWW. Hope this helps.

Sent on my SM-G930F with Tapatalk

[AimlessWanderer]

It's a security Torx bit. They are freely available in most tool stores or online 

... Dutch Tooler beat me to it 

[Ravenroost]

Thank you very much folks that appears to be exactly what I am looking for.

I had seen it mentioned in some posts and I didn't realize it was any different from a regular torx.

Everything is more clear now.

[AimlessWanderer]

 

If you need any more help, just shout  Someone here will be able to help 

... and welcome to   

[tommywp]

Hey Raven. Want to elaborate on how you replaced the scrapper with a file?

 

[Ravenroost]

Hey Raven. Want to elaborate on how you replaced the scrapper with a file?

 

I used a 6" American pattern Nicholson (.115 thick, there is variance of up to. 01 I found a thicker file may bind).

Cut to size I thought would be good with a cut off wheel

(End up shifting and trimming more later)

I removed the bit from the bit storage
Then removed the plastic scale

Used a carbide drill on the file to create a 201 hole

 then used a broken carbide Endmill (.312) ground a steep taper onto it and ran it into the hole from both sides until the land in the center was .281 diameter (the pin it rides on was 277 by my measure)

Went to the belt sander and free hand ground the angled section that mates with the framelock (.540 at the top, .514 at that the bottom of the 1/4" of land)

Then swung the radius (also freehand)

Put it on, made a couple adjustments for fit

Blue loctited the screw on.

And realized I put the slot for your nail on the wrong side lol.

[Fortytwo]

Another, ugly but working, solution to the security torx is to break the pin. I've seen it done on these smaller sized torx screws but I don't think it would work on anything big (but then drilling them out might be a working solution).

[tommywp]

Hey Raven. Want to elaborate on how you replaced the scrapper with a file?

 

I used a 6" American pattern Nicholson (.115 thick, there is variance of up to. 01 I found a thicker file may bind).

Cut to size I thought would be good with a cut off wheel

(End up shifting and trimming more later)

I removed the bit from the bit storage
Then removed the plastic scale

Used a carbide drill on the file to create a 201 hole

 then used a broken carbide Endmill (.312) ground a steep taper onto it and ran it into the hole from both sides until the land in the center was .281 diameter (the pin it rides on was 277 by my measure)

Went to the belt sander and free hand ground the angled section that mates with the framelock (.540 at the top, .514 at that the bottom of the 1/4" of land)

Then swung the radius (also freehand)

Put it on, made a couple adjustments for fit

Blue loctited the screw on.

And realized I put the slot for your nail on the wrong side lol.

Got ya...so it dropped right in.


Sounds legit. Throw a picture up if you get a chance.

 

[King_Gorilla]

curiosity,

No one else mentioned it so I just thought I would ask...

Were you unhappy with the bit driver on the MUT???  They sell the little adapter so that you can use normal 1/4 inch bits.

[Ravenroost]

The Bit driver isn't terrible, but I would much prefer to have it outside accessible

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158487066@N05/shares/XL46V6

[SteveC]

 

[tommywp]

The Bit driver isn't terrible, but I would much prefer to have it outside accessible

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158487066@N05/shares/XL46V6

Dude. That is sweet as smurf!!! Would love that

[Ravenroost]

OHO 1/4 bit driver added in place of the firearm punch. lack of foresight on the fact it now blocks access to the pocket clip! Guess I am going to be a sheath guy now.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158487066@N05/shares/7jWh09

[Breezy12]

OHO 1/4 bit driver added in place of the firearm punch. lack of foresight on the fact it now blocks access to the pocket clip! Guess I am going to be a sheath guy now.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158487066@N05/shares/7jWh09

I love the way this turned out... really nice work, Raven!

makes me want to get a MUT and start experimenting...

[Ravenroost]

Thanks!

It's a fantastic platform IMO. That hammer has been insanely helpful for me, far more than what most people would think.

I am going to eventually replace the bit driver with a more permanent one (it's an old craftsman one I had laying around, epoxied on to the end of the punch mount with a keeper screw)

Once I can get my hands on a gerber mp1 and center drive I'll see about making one or the others bit driver work on the MUT.

Until then I've been eyeing up my daughter's Leatherman Leap.

I wonder if I can come up with some mods for that.

[Fortytwo]

Thanks!

It's a fantastic platform IMO. That hammer has been insanely helpful for me, far more than what most people would think.

I am going to eventually replace the bit driver with a more permanent one (it's an old craftsman one I had laying around, epoxied on to the end of the punch mount with a keeper screw)

Once I can get my hands on a gerber mp1 and center drive I'll see about making one or the others bit driver work on the MUT.

Until then I've been eyeing up my daughter's Leatherman Leap.

I wonder if I can come up with some mods for that.

Would changing to a smaller bit size be possible or useful? Something like the "precision bit drivers" that are out there? I'm thinking that a smaller diver would be easier to fit well although it wouldn't allow for as much torque.

[Wallace72]

The MUT with the 1/4 inch bit driver, is it an older or newer model? It doesn't have a skeletal clip. 

Awesome mod by the way.

[King_Gorilla]

looks cool 

[Ravenroost]

I'd have to see on the driver size, I am just using it for torx screws in cutter bodies for machining. I'll give that a look as well.

As far as the vintage of the MUT I got it on Amazon in January. So I am not sure as to it's age.

Is there an easy way for me to find out?

[Ravenroost]

With the Universal Tool Adapter discontinued, I hit up EBay.

There was some sticker shock (alot) and I almost pulled the trigger, but I read a little more and the ones I could find probably wouldn't fit the MUT.

So I made one instead. It fits every multitool (pliers based) I own.

I ordered some hex sleeves, plate stock, magnets, and hardware. This is the prototype, I'll hopefully be making a better version (that will be able to be locked at 45 and 90 degrees unlike this one).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158487066@N05/shares/7758ue

How I did it, in case someone wants to know or whatever.

Materials
.07 thick stainless shim stock
Some tool shop bit extender
1x 10-32 cap screw

1) eyeballs where I wanted the slot (was a guess on how much cross section of need to withstand torsion)

2) drilled hole at end of the slot

3) cut off wheel to the end ofnthe bit extender (cutting off the tool steel allen), making sure to frequently submerge in coolant so the magnet wouldn't get to hot

4) cut slot to meet the drilled hole (poorly on my part)

5) used a needle file to make the slot a little more straight and fit well with a running fit on the pliers head

6) cut a slot into the end of the bit extender and used a punch to knock out the left over chunks of the tool steel hex stock.

7) drilled a hole through (tap drill for 10-32)

drilled a clearance hole on the thinner side and then through the plate

9) tapped a hole and mounted the driver

10) shimmed out the gap between the driver and the plate with the ends of a small zip tie.

*** next time I will thread the driver body on a lathe and use a locking screw, I was just trying to do this quick and dirty while I wasn't busy doing other things at work.

[King_Gorilla]

 

Very cool.  I like that it is so much smaller than the Universal tool adapter.

 

[Ravenroost]

Thanks.

It works really slick. Even with my daughter's Leap.

Which I borrow on occasion as my EDC, since it's pliers are better/stronger than the skeletool and it weighs about the same(I snapped 3 or 4 pairs of skeletool pliers at work before I moved on to the MUT).

[Syncop8r]

Very cool.  I like that it is so much smaller than the Universal tool adapter.

+1