External screwdriver on surge?

[Film School EDC]

I just picked up a Surge and immeeiately thought of a modification, but haven't seen it done anywhere and would love some feedback on options.

Since I don't see myself using the file or saw very much, I'd like to replace the blade exchanger with a screwdriver. Has anyone done this before. Numerous searches here and on Google haven't turned up anything. 

I've got a couple ideas for how to proceed:
1) Make a custom bit that fits the existing blade exchanger. I could thin down a long screwdriver bit and cut notches to fit the existing tool.
     Pros: No modification to the tool
     Cons: Could create too much torque and twist the blade exchanger.

2) Replace the blade exchanger with the Leatherman bit exchanger. It looks like it would have to be filed down to allow the bit to pass underneath the outer guard. I could then move the blade exchanger into the tools interior, and carry the saw and file separately.
     Pros: Would work with standard Leatherman bits, could use the long double ended Leatherman bit for wuick changes, and might handle the torque better.
     Cons: Would need a spare bit exchanger (I don't trust myself without a spare), would require more modification.

So to you, the experts, is there another way? Am I missing anything.

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[Film School EDC]

I just picked up a Surge and immeeiately thought of a modification, but haven't seen it done anywhere and would love some feedback on options.

Since I don't see myself using the file or saw very much, I'd like to replace the blade exchanger with a screwdriver. Has anyone done this before. Numerous searches here and on Google haven't turned up anything. 

I've got a couple ideas for how to proceed:
1) Make a custom bit that fits the existing blade exchanger. I could thin down a long screwdriver bit and cut notches to fit the existing tool.
     Pros: No modification to the tool
     Cons: Could create too much torque and twist the blade exchanger.

2) Replace the blade exchanger with the Leatherman bit exchanger. It looks like it would have to be filed down to allow the bit to pass underneath the outer guard. I could then move the blade exchanger into the tools interior, and carry the saw and file separately.
     Pros: Would work with standard Leatherman bits, could use the long double ended Leatherman bit for wuick changes, and might handle the torque better.
     Cons: Would need a spare bit exchanger (I don't trust myself without a spare), would require more modification.

So to you, the experts, is there another way? Am I missing anything.

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Well, just ground down a screwdriver bit to fit in the blade exchanger and it looks like I'm gonna have to go a different route. It works fine until you try to turn a screw, then it twists the locking cover, as I feared.

If anyone's got any other clever ideas, I'm all ears.

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[Syncop8r]

What sort of screwdriver do you want in there? Do you want it to be more accessible than the inner screwdrivers?

[Dutch_Tooler]

Option 2 seems feasible, at least the blade exchanger part. I've done a mod in which I placed a Surge blade exchanger (note: the old model, lacks the anti-wobble spring and hence is thinner than the new model) in a ST 300 handle, whose locks are identical to those of a Surge. This did require a pivot sleeve and quite a bit of grinding and filing to make fit. Look here:

https://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=73762.0

For the other part of that option, externalising the bit driver, note that you will have to enlarge the pivot hole to 5.5 mm (requires carbide tipped drill bit) as well as fashioning a liner-lock-complementary surface and making space for the 5 mm wide bit driver, i.e. probably ŕemoving part of the guard rather than thinning the bit driver - I personally would recommend against the latter option since you'd weaken the bit driver considerably.

Hope this helps. Keep us abreast of any developments please

Edit: added link for mod

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[Film School EDC]

In a perfect world, I'd love to have something like the long bit from the MUT with Phillips on one side and the flat on the other. I just think I'll use it more than the saw/file. I'd settle for a Phillips bit, though.


All that said, an absurdly simple idea just occurred to me. Since I carry the tool in a pouch, I could just leave the bit exchanger exposed for quick access, even when the tool is closed. Might test that in the field before getting in over my head with modifications.

Open to suggestions, though. 

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[Film School EDC]

Option 2 seems feasible, at least the blade exchanger part. I've done a mod in which I placed a Surge blade exchanger (note: the old model, lacks the anti-wobble spring and hence is thinner than the new model) in a ST 300 handle, whose locks are identical to those of a Surge. This did require a pivot sleeve and quite a bit of grinding and filing to make fit. Search for "ST 300 VX" if you need more info.

For the other part of that option, externalising the bit driver, note that you will have to enlarge the pivot hole to 5.5 mm (requires carbide tipped drill bit) as well as fashioning a liner-lock-complementary surface and making space for the 5 mm wide bit driver, i.e. probably ŕemoving part of the guard rather than thinning the bit driver - I personally would recommend against the latter option since you'd weaken the bit driver considerably.

Hope this helps. Keep us abreast of any developments please

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Missed this. Thanks for the info. I agree with cutting away the guard, after looking closer. I want to keep as much strength as possible.

Time to start looking for a spare bit exchanger.

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[Dutch_Tooler]

Two more things I thought about:
1. Plier pivot for the side of the external bit driver will need to be about 1.3 mm longer, off the top of my head I'm not sure there are Leatherman pivots around with that length and suitable for external tools (i.e. large/wide head).
2. Need to make sure that the thickness of the MUT bit plus the space between the bit and the inner handle web can lodge between that web and the outer guard. If not you might need to cut off more of the outer guard, decreasing its effectiveness.

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[WoodsDuck]

Have you considered just buying a Gerber Center-Drive? 

[Ravenroost]

Have you considered just buying a Gerber Center-Drive? 

He could do that, then remove the driver and attach it to the surge.

The gerber MP1 driver also could be added to The surge if you don't need the reach.

The plus side is both tools are a little thinner at the pivot and may not require a new pin.

Alternately you could take a MUT pivot (punch side) which is longer than the surge pivot pins.

There would be some boring/reaming needed for those particular mods.

Alternately have you considered carrying something like a Wera 813R? Very low profile in the pocket.

If you aren't opposed to pocket carrying the driver, in my MUT mods thread somewhere in this subforum I recently made a very low profile bit driver that looks like the UTA leatherman used to make.

Which allows you to drive screws without fully opening the tool.

And also doesn't require losing any tools to do it (but does require carrying an extra piece, though it's quite pocketable)

[Dutch_Tooler]

Two more things I thought about:
1. Plier pivot for the side of the external bit driver will need to be about 1.3 mm longer, off the top of my head I'm not sure there are Leatherman pivots around with that length and suitable for external tools (i.e. large/wide head).
2. Need to make sure that the thickness of the MUT bit plus the space between the bit and the inner handle web can lodge between that web and the outer guard. If not you might need to cut off more of the outer guard, decreasing its effectiveness.

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As to 2, just measured on my Surge (new gen). The space under the guard is 3.7 mm. You'll need 4.1 mm minimum for the original width of the bit driver and a MUT bit even if no washer is inserted... sounds to me a bit like more work than it's worth...

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[Film School EDC]

So I had some time to tinker today and here's what I found.
1) The bit driver would fit on the outside with minimal modification; just needs the pivot opened up and a notch cut for the liner lock.
2) I confirmed that a bit wouldn't fit without cutting away the guard, so that the bit sits exposed.

The pictures below show how the bit driver sits in the open space (a small section of the guard would have to be removed so it doesn't catch). You can see that the opening intersects with the guard and how much would need to be removed. (I used the file as a stand in, but it gives you a sense of how much I'd need to cut off of the guard.)

I think that this would be the best way to do it, but I can't bring myself to cut into my brand new Surge. Maybe when it gets a little more beat up I'll give it a try.

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[Syncop8r]

I dream of a Surge with all the inside tools swapped around so that they open to the outside....
Would love to hack away at some handles if they could be found cheap.

[Film School EDC]

I dream of a Surge with all the inside tools swapped around so that they open to the outside....
Would love to hack away at some handles if they could be found cheap.

Therin lies the problem: the price. I spend $100 on a Leatherman because I know it will be fixed or replaced for the cost of shipping. Not so if I destroy the thing with a Dremel.

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[WoodsDuck]

I dream of a Surge with all the inside tools swapped around so that they open to the outside....
Would love to hack away at some handles if they could be found cheap.

Therin lies the problem: the price. I spend $100 on a Leatherman because I know it will be fixed or replaced for the cost of shipping. Not so if I destroy the thing with a Dremel.

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It does sometimes seem like modding is a rich man's game... Though a much poorer man can do it if he just has the smurfs to say "sod the warranty!" 

[clown]

Just thinking out loud, quietly through my keyboard.....would the Phillips off an OHT be a possibility?

[Film School EDC]

Just thinking out loud, quietly through my keyboard.....would the Phillips off an OHT be a possibility?

Not sure. If it's any thicker than the flat bits it would still require the guard be cut down.

The 2D Phillips off of the wingman/sidekick would be an easier candidate. Might have to give that a go if (when) I get restless.

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[clown]

Just thinking out loud, quietly through my keyboard.....would the Phillips off an OHT be a possibility?

Not sure. If it's any thicker than the flat bits it would still require the guard be cut down.

The 2D Phillips off of the wingman/sidekick would be an easier candidate. Might have to give that a go if (when) I get restless.

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I had an OHT a while back.  I don't recall the exact thickness bit it was 2D.

[Film School EDC]

Just thinking out loud, quietly through my keyboard.....would the Phillips off an OHT be a possibility?

Not sure. If it's any thicker than the flat bits it would still require the guard be cut down.

The 2D Phillips off of the wingman/sidekick would be an easier candidate. Might have to give that a go if (when) I get restless.

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I had an OHT a while back.  I don't recall the exact thickness bit it was 2D.

Oh, I see. The picture I looked at looked like similar to something on a SAK, but upon closer inspection looks like it would do nicely.

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[Syncop8r]

Just thinking out loud, quietly through my keyboard.....would the Phillips off an OHT be a possibility?

Not sure. If it's any thicker than the flat bits it would still require the guard be cut down.

The 2D Phillips off of the wingman/sidekick would be an easier candidate. Might have to give that a go if (when) I get restless.

If it's a Phillips you're after, you could replace the bit driver with one from an ST300.
It won't use up that saw/file slot of course...

[386greene]

I was working on a similar project, I have the surge bit holder bored out for the right pivot size, even have it where it locks in the right position. But I need to find some pivots, the originals are in my wave now. I do plan to make some passes with a welder, to give it more material around the pivot so it doesn't lock at half way.

I've almost given up, but I don't like taking no for an answer lol

[Dutch_Tooler]

Loki has more than just the tool parts for LM, at least some pivots too: https://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,64314.msg1555222.html#msg1555222

[Film School EDC]

Just ordered a spare bit driver (didn't see Loki's thread until now, I'll have to keep that in mind in the future). Gonna do some more tinkering when it arrived and I'll report back.

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[Dutch_Tooler]

An interesting compendium of mods is appearing here -maybe useful?:

https://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=74592.0

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[Film School EDC]

Started with some work today. Couldn't find a carbide drill bit in the right size, so I grabbed a carbide grinding bit for the Dremel and slowly ate away at the current hole to open it up. Had to be careful, but I eventually got the pivot to fit.

After that I wanted to fix the issues with the liner lock. As is, it will engage at the halfway point. I've seen people weld some additional material here, but since I've got no experience welding, I scored the surface with the carbide bit and added some plumbers epoxy. This stuff is super hard and should work fine, as long as I can get it to stick. Letting it dry now, then I'll remove as much as needed (I probably built it up too much at the moment) and shape it with a file. This way the liner lock wont move until it engages with the groove that I will be cutting later.

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[Dutch_Tooler]

Good to see you're making progress

I'm looking forward to seeing how the epoxy holds up to forming and (ab-)use