Mirror polishing stainless steel?

[Lynn LeFey]

I can get a good polish with p2000 automotive 'sandpaper', but i can't figure out how to get out the ultrafine scratches still left behind. Do I need to go at it with polishing compound and a buffing wheel on a dremel? And if so, what compound, and how long does it take? What I'm using now isn't working.

Assistance appreciated for this noob.

[Mechanickal]

I use a polishing wheel on my pillar drill.
Green polishing compound and somewhere between 5-10 min to get a mirror finish on a nearly scratchless surface (which just wasn't mirror finished before)

[Don Pablo]

Slightly off-topic....
A mirror finish with scratches sounds pretty cool to me, on paper. 

[Lynn LeFey]

It's the kind of scratches that are virtually invisible, unless you turn it a certain way. They make me crazy. But then, everything does, so... 

Mechanickal, Thanks. 

[Smashie]

I found the trick is not to rely on one compound, I use 3 in this order after removing the scratches with gradually finer abrasives.

1. grey/black basically a cutting compound
2. Brown or Tripoli finer yet again
3. Jewellers Rouge, the final polish

Use a polishing wheel of no less than 6" and don't use a dremel, they spin too fast and you can cause more harm than good especially with the grey/black and Tripoli.

Finish it off with clean wheel you don't put any compound on and clean between with warm water and washing up liquid (make sure it's completely dry!)

You can get some great results, here's the rifle I built last year, not stainless but the method is exactly the same. The air cylinder was black originally.

Go slow and you'll be fine

[Lynn LeFey]

I don't have a polishing wheel. So... 

[Don Pablo]

Elbow grease? DIY wheel? 

[Smashie]

I don't have a polishing wheel. So... 

Harbour freight? or estate sales?  The one I use cost (quick conversion) £21.80, second hand

[gerleatherberman]

Also know there are different types of wheels. I use only two compounds, but two different type wheels. 6" cutting cloth wheel to start, and an 8" low-RPM finishing wheel to get a mirror polish. Harbor freight has a decent bench grinder that takes the 6" buffing wheels for cheap. Worth every penny.

[Smashie]

Also know there are different types of wheels. I use only two compounds, but two different type wheels. 6" cutting cloth wheel to start, and an 8" low-RPM finishing wheel to get a mirror polish. Harbor freight has a decent bench grinder that takes the 6" buffing wheels for cheap. Worth every penny.

Yeah I forgot say I use hard felt wheel for the more abrasive compound and they get softer the closer to the final finish

[gerleatherberman]

Also know there are different types of wheels. I use only two compounds, but two different type wheels. 6" cutting cloth wheel to start, and an 8" low-RPM finishing wheel to get a mirror polish. Harbor freight has a decent bench grinder that takes the 6" buffing wheels for cheap. Worth every penny.

Yeah I forgot say I use hard felt wheel for the more abrasive compound and they get softer the closer to the final finish

I only mentioned it, because I learned the hard way. Started polishing my vintage stainless wrist watches about 15 years ago and it took a few years to understand why I had polishing lines in the steel, even with the finest finishing compounds. I had been using a cutting wheel at high RPM.
My 8" finishing wheel runs at 1750rpm. Takes a bit longer than 3400@6", but worth the time.
Edit: pic of the early 1960s 1750rpm Westinghouse 3/4hp with 8" wheel.

[Smashie]

Also know there are different types of wheels. I use only two compounds, but two different type wheels. 6" cutting cloth wheel to start, and an 8" low-RPM finishing wheel to get a mirror polish. Harbor freight has a decent bench grinder that takes the 6" buffing wheels for cheap. Worth every penny.

Yeah I forgot say I use hard felt wheel for the more abrasive compound and they get softer the closer to the final finish

I only mentioned it, because I learned the hard way. Started polishing my vintage stainless wrist watches about 15 years ago and it took a few years to understand why I had polishing lines in the steel, even with the finest finishing compounds. I had been using a cutting wheel at high RPM.
My 8" finishing wheel runs at 1750rpm. Takes a bit longer than 3400@6", but worth the time.
Edit: pic of the early 1960s 1750rpm Westinghouse 3/4hp with 8" wheel.

Bloody hell, I leant how to polish from a watchmaker!

[Sparky415]

Lynn do you have access to a drill (not a dremel)
If you do the cheapest/best option is a buffing wheel to fit that
I did try the dremel option a long time ago but found it frustrating 

how big is the thing you are polishing?

[firiki]

I did try the dremel option a long time ago but found it frustrating 

I hear PROXXON makes a much better dremel type machine that even costs less.

No first hand experience with either one so I can't compare them but I do trust my sources so I thought I'd mention it 

[Lynn LeFey]

Lynn do you have access to a drill (not a dremel)
If you do the cheapest/best option is a buffing wheel to fit that
I did try the dremel option a long time ago but found it frustrating 

how big is the thing you are polishing?

Yes, I have a hand drill (corded, so can run as long as I like, at variable speeds). And I'm just polishing knife/MT parts. Blades mostly.

Thank you all for your very helpful knowledge. I feel like an idiot noob, but I guess we all have to start somewhere.

[pietervn]

G'Day Lynn,

I found good old elbow grease works for me. I prefer using a cloth and polishing paste and take my time. I polished a MATT LM Sideclip to a mirror finish in about a week. I used micro-fibre cloths and Metal Glo marketed by United Cutlery. We use it on our swords too, but that is mostly for protection.
I have used it on two Leathermans: Sideclip and OG Wave. Both came out beautifully, but beware, if you suffer from OCD the fingerprints will bug the living daylights out of you. I know it does me.  It is well worth the final outcome, but for me they became show pieces. I have also used it on SAK blades and they come out extremely shiny with all scratches removed.

I include some pics of the final product.

Cheers
Pete

[Sparky415]

Lynn do you have access to a drill (not a dremel)
If you do the cheapest/best option is a buffing wheel to fit that
I did try the dremel option a long time ago but found it frustrating 

how big is the thing you are polishing?

Yes, I have a hand drill (corded, so can run as long as I like, at variable speeds). And I'm just polishing knife/MT parts. Blades mostly.

Thank you all for your very helpful knowledge. I feel like an idiot noob, but I guess we all have to start somewhere.

First see Smashies post above with the gun 

As you already have a drill I would use something like...
(put the drill in a vice/secure it )

google 'stitched polishing mop for drill' and get something like...
http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/White_Close_Stitch_Mops-p1.html

Then you will need a spindle to suit your drill
http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Spindles___Adaptors-p1.html

If you are going to use different polishing compounds I would get a mop for each 

 

[Vidar]

I did try the dremel option a long time ago but found it frustrating 

I hear PROXXON makes a much better dremel type machine that even costs less.

No first hand experience with either one so I can't compare them but I do trust my sources so I thought I'd mention it 

I haven't had any Proxxon straight grinders (like the Dremel) but I've had a few of their other models. One is even still working.. Their tiny long neck angle grinder is actually smurfing great, but that model just keep on dying on me. For that price I'd expect better. 

 I'm not too excited by my Dremel either but at least it does what it says on the box and for tiny stuff it is great. I suspect the Bosch 10.8v/ 12v straight grinder is more or less identical so if you already happen to have some of those batteries around that might be a better idea. (Bosch owns Dremel). 

[Lynn LeFey]

While I haven't gotten it EXACTLY mirror polished, at least not yet...

The project in progress. I'm trying to turn a Milwaukee insulation knife into a passable proximity of a Viking era Seax for a friend of mine who does SCA stuff.



The blade it started as...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-Smooth-Blade-Insulation-Knife-48-22-1921/205935391

The stock knife has a tang that's as wide as the blade all the way to the pommel. I had to cut it down with a dremel, and I'm not quite done. Also had to take about an inch off the blade and reshape the tip. Finally, the thing comes bead-blasted, and I've been polishing it for 2 days now, off and on. You can see the original finish on the tang in the pic. Matte gray.

The idea is first for me to not put too much money into this project, and second to have a knife that LOOKS reasonable, but is easy to maintain, so stainless steel.

So... here's the problem now. I think it looks TOO shiny. I'm thinking about putting a forced patina on it, to make it look more 'authentic'. 

[Sparky415]

Patina, If it's stainless that might be hard to do

 

[Gerhard Gerber]

I've done more than a bit of polishing with one of those Dremmel  polishing thingies, but you do need some polishing compound to use with it.

Patina=controlled rust, so you're not going to get a patina on that.

Perhaps you should consider a 400 grit "hand-rubbed satin"

[Sam Lim]

Or you could try heating it gently over a open flame.. Gently.. It should turn light yellowish without affecting its properties.

[Lynn LeFey]

Patina=controlled rust, so you're not going to get a patina on that.

Just so you all know...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFHOvl86FnI

And maybe a bit more fancy...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGzj03XtPp4

[Sparky415]

 

Still   

[Vidar]

It is in the name I guess: stain less. Add more stains to compensate.

I'm curious whether it retains its stainless steel characteristics after treatment?