Sak bushings.

[armi101]

Does anyone know where you can get bushings. One got damaged during an early mod and now the Sak seems to have a little too much side to side play. I'm guessing the pin/bushing actually failed.

[SteveC]

Another donor SAK.

[Lynn LeFey]

If you order scales and parts from forum member Syph007, he may also have some bushings. But it's just not worth shipping the bushings alone, I think.

I got a pair of plus scales, 3 pairs of regular scales, pens, mini screwdriver, split rings, toothpicks, and some bushings.

[Don Pablo]

Yes, I got brushings from Syph as well with an order of parts.

I do think that a beaten up donor SAK is the way to go through. 
If I lived in North America I would be buying lots of cheap broken SAKs off eBay all the time. 

[hiraethus]

Does anyone know where you can get bushings. One got damaged during an early mod and now the Sak seems to have a little too much side to side play. I'm guessing the pin/bushing actually failed.

Did you preform one rivet head before rebuilding the SAK?  If you do this it can loosen over time, causing side-to-side play.  Much better to cut and file the pin to length (about 1 ~ 1.5mm past the bushing or outer liner in the case of the back tool pivot) and peen tightly into the bushes on both sides as you build the knife.

The bushings are only availble from donor SAKs.  Buy a few beaters (https://store.multitool.org/departments/-102victorinoxwenger-models-2layer-141.html#/39-knife_type-victorinox_spartan) and strip them down for bits.

[armi101]

Ok thanks.
I'll pick up a beater to strip the bushings. I have some torx on order, so i might just strip the celidor and do wood scales and change eeverythjng over to torx. I also have some g10, so maybe g10 with torx on the 91mm.

I might leave it for a while and see if I can live with the side play. But I'll probably break down, and fix it.

Thanks all.

[magentus]

Good luck! And post pics 

[Syph007]

Does anyone know where you can get bushings. One got damaged during an early mod and now the Sak seems to have a little too much side to side play. I'm guessing the pin/bushing actually failed.

Did you preform one rivet head before rebuilding the SAK?  If you do this it can loosen over time, causing side-to-side play.  Much better to cut and file the pin to length (about 1 ~ 1.5mm past the bushing or outer liner in the case of the back tool pivot) and peen tightly into the bushes on both sides as you build the knife.

The bushings are only availble from donor SAKs.  Buy a few beaters (https://store.multitool.org/departments/-102victorinoxwenger-models-2layer-141.html#/39-knife_type-victorinox_spartan) and strip them down for bits.

This!  This should be in the basic guides sticky thing.  Preforming the head means it wont form well to the inner shape of that bushing.  Alot of the early guides were showing to do this but its not the best.

[Marc_in_NS]

Does anyone know where you can get bushings. One got damaged during an early mod and now the Sak seems to have a little too much side to side play. I'm guessing the pin/bushing actually failed.

Did you preform one rivet head before rebuilding the SAK?  If you do this it can loosen over time, causing side-to-side play.  Much better to cut and file the pin to length (about 1 ~ 1.5mm past the bushing or outer liner in the case of the back tool pivot) and peen tightly into the bushes on both sides as you build the knife.

The bushings are only availble from donor SAKs.  Buy a few beaters (https://store.multitool.org/departments/-102victorinoxwenger-models-2layer-141.html#/39-knife_type-victorinox_spartan) and strip them down for bits.

This!  This should be in the basic guides sticky thing.  Preforming the head means it wont form well to the inner shape of that bushing.  Alot of the early guides were showing to do this but its not the best.

+100

[hiraethus]

I started off doing it by pre-forming but after a tip from tattoosteve I tried it the other way.  It's a bit more fiddly but seems a lot more robust.

[Wspeed]

  

[armi101]

I've done a few mods now. All on 91s removing or adding layers. I've posted a couple. Nothing too spectacular, just customizing for my preference.

The damaged bushing is from my second mod before i started using a drill press. I used cobalt bits, I used a metal scribe and punched a started point for the bit....but when drilling.

I drilled out the rivit and i didn't notice the bit was off centre. So I damaged the bushing. It actually ended up on the bit as I was drilling. When I peaned everything back in place this bushing hole was larger....so i kept peening until the rod basically filled the bushing. It was tight, but not great.

When I put the scales on it needed glue to keep it in place. It's the only time I've had to use any adhesive.

I do things different now.
1. Remove scales.
2. Mark drill bit centre point
3. Mount in drill press vice.
4. Drill out just enough to punch rod down.
5. Remove bushing and pull everything apart.

It was a learning experience. I picked up the tools to make it easier. Saves me time and makes things easier. 

[craggus2000]

Did you preform one rivet head before rebuilding the SAK?  If you do this it can loosen over time, causing side-to-side play.  Much better to cut and file the pin to length (about 1 ~ 1.5mm past the bushing or outer liner in the case of the back tool pivot) and peen tightly into the bushes on both sides as you build the knife.

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but has anyone done any guides or got any pics of this technique? Seems like an extremely useful method to learn?
Thanks

[hiraethus]

Not done so before, but the method I use is roughly as follows:

1. Get your SAK assembled, with liners and bushes in place.  You might want to tape the knife together to stop it coming apart while you work on it.
2. Trim the rods to length and file/sand the ends flat - approx. 1mm proud of the bushes on each side is about right, and about the same proud of the liner on the back tool pivot
3. Carefully peen one end of each pin over, just a little, to retain the bushing
4. Flip the knife and do the same on the other side.
5. Work all the rivets in turn - peen until just tight enough that the action is still good but there's barely any side-to-side play in the tools.

[craggus2000]

Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking!
And is there a recommended drill bit diameter for drilling out each of the brass rods on each respective size of SAK?

[magentus]

Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking!
And is there a recommended drill bit diameter for drilling out each of the brass rods on each respective size of SAK?

For 91mm SAK's the three pins with bushings are 2.5mm diameter - the fourth pin is 2.2mm but you're best off filing the head off and punching it through.

93mm SAK's have 3mm pins either end and 2.5mm in the middle.

84mm are all 2.2mm I think........

[hiraethus]

 

Except on a 91mm SAK, the two end pins are 2.5 mm and the two inner pins (one with bushings, one without) are 2.2 mm.

[craggus2000]

Presumably just use a 0.5-1.0mm smaller diameter drill bit than the rod?

[hiraethus]

I'd use 2.5 mm and 2 mm. They're easy enough to get hold of and, as long as you're careful with your centring (use a sharp punch, take your time) you'll be able to reuse the bushes no problem.

If you drill too deep you risk damaging the liners.  Too shallow and you'll struggle to punch the rivet through the bushing.