The Ubiquitous Chinese SOG Toolclip knockoffs: Many Models Reviewed

[ChopperCharles]

Another two-for-Thursday today, as I review a no-name pair that I purchased off of eBay, brand new, for $14 plus shipping from Australia. The link is here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-MULTI-Function-TOOL-Pocket-Plier-Knife-Long-Nose-or-Flat-Nose/111654788670  These come in a plain bag and bubble packaging, sealed, with no branding or other information on them. The seller is selling both blunt and needle nose style pliers. My needle nose are still on the way, so for now here's a review of the blunt nose. I'm calling them the "Aussie Special"

Jaws: A

While I do like the Coast jaws above, this style of jaws tends to be the best made. The gripping area for bolts is encroached on by the wire cutters, and the jaws don't open as wide, but the spring and the action feels sublime. They're very light, easy feeling jaws. There is an ever so slight drag to the jaws, but it's not coming from the jaws themselves, but rather from the cutters. Everything is machined well, with no offset or play to speak of. They easily pull out arm hairs.

Cutter: A+

The cutters are VERY precise. They drag on each other slightly. As they break in, they'll be perfectly sliding against each other, with no gap. It's the gap that causes wires to be bent instead of cut, and any play in the jaws exaserbates that. These cutters cut EVERYTHING in my test. 24 gauge to 12 gauge, zip ties, everything. And it's all cut with a very sharp SNAP. 

Tools: C

The tools are the standard three, but modified with a round machined cutout which acts as a stop on the extra rivet you see near the pivot. The file is not very deeply cut, so it's not the most aggressive. It does file mild steel without being damaged, however. The small flat driver has no washer on it, which means when the tools are all closed the bottle opener hits it and pries it away from the side a little. Most of the blunt nose type tools like this are missing that washer, where most of the other tools have it. Strange. The backsprings are very powerful and lend the tools a nice snap - both open and closed. There is minor blade play.

Sharpening: B

The main blade is sharp enough to cut receipt paper! That was a pleasant surprise. It brings up the rest of the score, because the serrated blade isn't particularly sharp, the wire stripper notches are not sharpened, and the blade on the bottle opener is not sharp either.

Peening: C+

The jaws are peened well, but that's it. The three backspring rivets are only peened well on one side, leaving the backsprings with air gaps between them. The tool peen is actually pretty good though, big and well peened on both sides. There's a little blade play, but not too bad. The tools still open and close smoothly. Good compromise there.

Sheath: B-

I don't really like the pleather sheaths very much, and this one feels cheaper than most. (Sorry no pic)

Other Things of Note:

There's no backspring driver, no notch in the handle for the retention loop, and the handle is full width - not narrowed to make space for the phillips driver.

Overall: Buy 'em!

They're still available brand new at the link above. At least for a short while. So if you want one, now is the time. I like these, and the jaws and cutters are excellent. The tool load isn't my favorite, but the jaws make up for it I think.

[ChopperCharles]

Here you can see the cutters rubbing against each other and polishing the machining marks off. The lack of gap here is why these are so effective.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

So, I've been in contact with Coast, and I've found some interesting information.

The first Coast Pocket Mechanic was first sold in 1983.  The line of Pocket Mechanic and Pro Pocket Mechanic tools were made and sold until 2002. Originally they were all made in Taiwan. At least some, if not all of the Coast Pro Pocket Mechanic tools were made in China. The SOG ToolClip was patented and sold starting in 1991. What this means is that the SOG ToolClip is actually the knock-off..

What's interesting though is that I can't find ANY patents for the Coast Cutlery Company before 1996. David C. Brands invented the Pocket Mechanic, and is listed on many patents for Coast... but I can't find anything back further than 1996. When I inquired about the patent number on the blade of the original Pocket Mechanic ("PAT 39994"), I was told by Coast that it is confidential information.  Not sure what to make of that. The number doesn't show up in any search engines I've tried -- even a Taiwan patent search.

It's interesting that the pocket mechanics sold for almost exactly 20 years. That's the length of a patent, isn't it?

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Today is Friday, and I have for your enjoyment a True Value knockoff of the SOG ToolClip. I purchased this new in the blisterpack off of eBay (the seller still has a few left). The packaging is dated 1994. Brazen, only 3 years after the ToolClip was released. This is overall a good tool with a laughably bad peening job.

Jaws: C

I like this type of jaw, but unfortunately this is a poor example. The tips do not line up perfectly. The top jaw is thicker than the bottom jaw. The teeth do not mesh. The jaws have noticeable side offset. The big kicker is there are casting defects - actual voids - present in the jaws, which were exposed during the machining process. And those jaws made it past QC and into this tool. There is no spring to this tool, though the jaws do operate very smoothly and are not tight at all.

Cutter: C/A+

The cutters are actually rounded inwards on this tool. Instead of presenting an angled or even flat surface to wire, the cutters have a bevel in the wrong direction, essentially helping the wire bend instead of cut. But, that's not really the root of the problem. I sharpened the cutters with a file, and the problem was still just as bad. The issue is the gap between the cutters. They're just not close enough together. They'll cut 16 gauge speaker wire, small zip ties, and large zip ties. They fail on 12ga wire and the 18ga wire with the extra thick insulation. Also they fail the 24ga wire, but most do.

EDIT - The cutters are upgraded to an A+ if you peen the center rivet. If you read the peening section below, you'll see that the tool is assembled pretty abysmally. I went through and re-peened the entire tool, and the cutters work very well now.


Tools:

The tools are better than average! The standard three ToolClip blades are here. Bottle opener with sharpened triangle awl and wire stripper, serrated blade with wire stripper and file, and main blade. Plus the little dinky flat screwdriver. The small flat screwdriver sits on a washer in this model, and it is precisely ground with very clean, sharp edges. No rounding at all. The tool itself is not polished, that is why. It's also a little loose on the pivot pin. The file is not very aggressive, but it does cut through steel without being damaged. It files steel very, very slowly. This tool comes with a little metal shield to place over the serrated blade, when using the tool as a screwdriver or stowing it

Sharpening: A

The main blade is sharp enough to cut paper but not receipt paper. The serrated blade is sharp enough to cut paper as well, and this is a big surprise! But an even bigger surprise is the bottle opener blade is sharp enough to cut paper. There are also two sharpened wire stripping notches.

Peening: D

The peening is bad. On one side of the tool, the rivets look great. On the other... damn. The backspring rivets are barely peened at all. The plier pivot rivet is not just poorly peened, but it's starting to push through. There's about 1mm of space between the rivet head and the body on one side of the tool. (note: Peening this properly may fix the cutters). The upper jaw rivets don't fair any better. One is peened adequately, and the other was mis-peened off center. There are tool marks on the side plate from where the tool missed. That rivet head is also about 1mm from fully seated. The only rivet that appears to be peened adequately is the tool pivot rivet. And even that could stand to be peened more, as there is significant side-play in the serrated blade.

Sheath: B+

This is a completely different style of nylon sheath. It's thin material with an inner liner. Not particularly robust in any way, but it's nice enough. I like the two layers of material and the shape. It is, however, only designed for vertical carry.

Other Things of Note:

This tool is brand spanking new, and yet it looks heavily used. It's covered in nicks and scratches, as if it was in a big bin that was shaken and then it fell down a large industrial pachinko machine before finally making its way into packaging. Basically, it's a new tool that looks like the TSA had a crack at it.  The peening was so remarkably bad that I decided to peen it correctly, and then comment on it here. Peening the jaws fixed the cutter issue completely. However, I peened too much, and now the cutters drag against each other. That wouldn't be so bad if the tool had a spring, but it doesn't. So it's difficult to use now. I'm debating replacing the rivet with a screw and nut. Locktite the threads, turn it until it's at the correct torque that the cutters work and the jaws don't drag, and then let it dry. That would also be easy to adjust in the future if need be.

Overall: Your call here. But mostly pass unless you want a small project to tinker with.

The tools are good quality. The jaws are barely adequate. The casting voids do concern me, but they're mostly cosmetic. You'll not be able to put enough force on the tool to cause them to be a problem, I think. The sharpening is top notch. I could go either way on this tool. If you have the desire to peen it yourself, and you don't need wire cutters, this is closest to the SOG. The tools are sharp and well made and the wire stripper notches are sharp, which is not the case with any of hte other SOG type tools I've tested so far. But for a new tool, it looks like total crap. I bought it solely because I'm nostalgic for the True Value that used to be in my neighborhood, before they were bought out by Ace Hardware.

[ChopperCharles]

First photo shows:

1. The jaws don't line up
2. Casting void on the side of the lower jaw, and also on the bottom of the lower jaw. (discolored area)
3. Peening machine (or person?) completely missed one of the rivets, and dented the rivet and side plate.
4. More casting voids (dark areas) on the side of the upper jaw, particularly around (and under) the side plate attachment point at the top of the tool

Second photo shows

1. Line of casting voids on the top of the jaw (dark dots)
2.  Three rivets that are so loose there is 1mm of space beneath the heads

Third photo shows the general state of scratch/ding damage to a new tool. And the sheath in the closed position.

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Thank you, Charles. I hadn't realized that design was so early. I always thought early 80s fixed plier tools were more like the MultiMaster. I guess SOG just stepped up the fixed plier MT game with the phenomenal quality of the OG ToolClip and didn't actually invent the design.

And that True Value, after reading your review and seeing the photos, wasn't much of a 'true value'.

[gerleatherberman]

Hey Charles,
Digging around, I cannot find an example, of the Pocket Mechanic, made before the ToolClip, that has the same design as the ToolClip.
Here is a vague thread with a photo of a pocket mechanic. The thread eludes to the Seki-inspired design, like the ToolClip, being the inspiration for the later Coasts. And that some may have been Seki-made. Possibly?
https://forum.multitool.org/index.php?topic=36726.0#_

Is it possible that the Pocket Mechanic wasn't copied by SOG? And that the Coast, you have, could be Seki-style inspired?

Not saying the SOG was the first, but I would like some kind of finality in regards to the possibility of SOG not being the original designer of that style tool (being the unique pliers as the main feature).
I know the type of tool (fixed plier) has been around since the early 1980s, but I question whether the Seki design came about much earlier than 1991, when SOG used it.

[ThePeacent]

obviously they can say what they want  and the answer might not be the truth but why not ask SOG directly? 

[ChopperCharles]

What is this "Seiki Design" and "Japan Seiki" that you guys have alluded to? I'm unable to find any information on Google, and nothing on eBay, concerning Japanese fixed plier multi tools that may have influenced SOG or Coast. Can you point me to links, photos, or other information that will help me learn more about the history of this tool type? Thanks.

Also, so far from what I can find, original manufacturers of quality plier tools (not just the poor copies that abound everywhere) include:

• Coast (Pocket Mechanic, Pro Pocket Mechanic, Sport Mechanic)
• SOG (ToolClip)
• Al-Mar (4x4 and QuickPlier/Quicksilver/QuickClip)
• Russian military (6e6 Ratnik multitool)
• Wenger (SwissGrip and MiniGrip/PocketGrip)
• AG Russell (Pocket Tool Box)
• Marble's (Fishing pliers)

LMK if I'm missing any!


It seems most of the copies are based off the Coast, actually. There are some ToolClip copies, those have the ToolClip style plier heads. These include the Australian tool, NJ Transportation tool, and the True Value tool that I've reviewed. The rest seem to use Coast as the basis. I base this largely on the backspring screwdriver. The screwdriver on the Coast is well made, big, beefy, and the plier handle is clearanced to the side to give just enough space for the driver to extend.  The copies have a small, dinky driver, but the same clearanced handle -- which has far more clearance than is necessary with such a small diameter driver. It's obvious the handle clearance was made specifically for the Coast large driver. The design of the coast driver requires machining, and the cheap copies are able to cast the part as it is and not machine it, saving time, effort, and money. (The coast driver is round stock with a flat machined down the side where it would hit the handle otherwise. The pivot is also machined out of the round stock. The copies have a small diameter driver cast on a large tab). The copies also have a plier head far more similar to the Coast than to the ToolClip.

The question is why do the copies have a bottle opener with the awl blade from the ToolClip, instead of the far more useful flat screwdriver on the Coast?

I've contacted SOG for more info on the ToolClip history, and whether it was based at least in part on the Coast model. I'm curious to hear what they'll say.

Charles.

[ThePeacent]

What is this "Seiki Design" and "Japan Seiki" that you guys have alluded to?

you got no info because it's not "SEIKI" but "SEKI"

 

Seki is the cutlery capital of Japan, the city with the oldest, most famous and important knife and tool manufacturers in the country, 
like Solingen is to Germanny,
Sheffield to England,
Portland to the US,
or Toledo to Spain

Major capital cities where the famous bladesmiths, cutlery companies and edged tools manufacturers were/are and where they worked 

Spyderco, Cold Steel, SOG and others made and still make their knives (or some of them) in Seki city due to the high quality and excellent craftsmanship of their factories 

[ChopperCharles]

Okay. Makes sense. But I still don't see any plier tools other than Al-Mar and AG Russell, and neither of those are anything remotely like the SOG or Coast tools.

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

The unfortunate things about this are:
1. A lot of the very knowledgeable collectors aren't active anymore (it seems).
2. Before MT.o, it seems not many cared about documenting the MT world(with exception of a few) Even big companies like Gerber and SOG cannot give accurate historical information. LM has a decent history log though.
3. The "cheaper" MTs were produced 'willy-nilly'. Swapping manufacturers and facilities all the time. Parts were sourced from many companies and nobody seemed to keep the records.

I'll keep looking into the fixed-plier stuff, but I'm not sure I'll even get close to as much as you know, Charles. It seems to be a very limited focus in an obscure hobby.

[Poncho65]

Some interesting stuff in here for sure I would like Bob (J-sews) to see this thread If anyone has history on tools of this nature he would but he isn't very active anymore

This is what MTO is about and I have meant to keep up with this thread better

[gerleatherberman]

Thank you, Poncho!

Indded, J-sews is, one of the members whom I was referring to. Maybe you could shoot hin an email, Poncho? If you don't mond of course.

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, so I've done a bit of research.  I'm reasonably sure that the Pocket Mechanic was not sold before 1993. That's when the trademark was first used, and I'm finding plenty of newspaper ads for the pocket mechanic in early 1994 -- but nothing before that. I've found ads for a Coast folding "Pliers Plus" multi tool, very much like a leatherman, as early as 1990. Micro Pliers and Micro Toolbox show up in 1992 advertisements.

It's feasible that Coast called the Pocket Mechanic something else before 1993, if it indeed existed before that time.  But I'm considering this unlikely.

I've found copy on a Leatherman website saying that Leatherman faced stiff competition, in the early 1990s, and that Coast released the Pocket Mechanic at that time.

The really interesting thing is that shortly after releasing the Pocket Mechanic, Coast completely re-designed the tool, and released a similar tool with an entirely new plier head as early as 1996. Possibly as early as 1995. I will be reviewing this new plier type next!

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Thank you for finding that out, Charles!

The history of fixed-plier tools is very spotty and a company, like Coast for example, wouldn't likely know or care about accurate time-lines for their products. Like TP said, in response to my questions earlier in the thread, they could basically say anything they want. Like saying they started making the pocket mechanic in the early 80s(not true at all).

I am looking forward to your review on the newer plier-type Coast PM!

[ChopperCharles]

I'm going to do a basic review for the *two* new jaw types from Coast, and then make a brand new thread with as much of the history of the Coast plier-based multitools as I can piece together.

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Excellent!

I have a pro pocket mechanic on the way this week. Will take some photos when it arrives.
I am sure you have the same one, but it never hurts to check.

[ChopperCharles]

There are three versions of the Pro Pocket Mechanic, plus variants sold with other companies' names on them. (Sharper Image, Endeavor/Gator Grip, etc). I have two of them here and the third (older) type on the way. Post a pic, I'll tell ya if I've got that version!

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Thank you, Charles!
The seller only had one image(attached). I only bought it without more photos, because it was sold as "mint".
I did want one that was branded as Coast.

You know, ChopperCharles, you got me into these fixed-plier tools. Shame on you.

Seriously, I have really enjoyed these fixed plier tools. And when the Rebar challenge is over, I am doing a fixed-plier challenge. Hopefully you can join in.

[ChopperCharles]

Cool, that's the Type 2 needle nose. That's actually my favorite plier tool.  While you're ordering stuff, order a CR1220 battery for the LED scale. Only place I could find them locally was Batteries Plus.  I'm curious as to the  scissor design, and would love to see some pics when you get the tool in. Also want to know if there is a "Coast" logo on the blade, and if there are markings to indicate whether it's made in Taiwan or China.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Here's an older Pro Pocket Mechanic, with the original (I call them type 1) jaws. This particular one has Sharper Image branding. I'm hoping there are some weirdos people out there who collect sharper image catalogs, and can give me some dates when it was sold.

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Thank you for the info, Charles!

I'll take some decent photos when it arrives. And I did not even know about the LED scale. That should be cool! And I'll order a 1220 tonight. Afyer reading your thoughts, I am pretty excited about the Coast tool.

Edit: that is pretty cool looking! I remember when Circuit City carried Sharper Image. But, the Coast made tool was before my time (the years I went to CC).

[ChopperCharles]

Heh, don't get your hopes up on the LED scale. It's a very dim red LED from the 1990s. But it's easy to replace if you want white (or any other color). Also, I have a really high quality version of this tool, and it has different parts in the LED lighting system than the other two. So if you're having a bit of trouble getting the LED to work properly, wait for my pics. You can bend your leads like mine and then add a little RTV if you're missing the rubber grommet that is supposed to hold the LED in place.

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Noted. Thank you for the info! But, that shouldn't be an issue. 
I wouldn't use the LED as a primary light to be honest. I always carry an LED maglite (1xAAA/45lm, 2xAAA/111lm, or 2xAA/245lm), so the Coast integrated LED would be for novelty more than anything. Much like the red LED in my older SAK MiniChamp. Basically made for finding a door's keyhole. 

[ChopperCharles]

It does work for that. It's so pathetically dim it won't work for anything but that. I've got a 50-pack of high intensity 3mm white LEDs on order, and will give them a try in the tool when they arrive. I'll have 47 extras, so for the cost of a stamp I'll send one your way if it works and you want one.

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

I cannot turn down an offer to make an obsolete MT viable as an EDC.

Count me in. I'll send some extra $ with the money I am sending  on Saturday. Will that be o.k.?

[ChopperCharles]

LEDs should be here by then, so I can just put one in the box that I'm sending the tough tool in. No need to add anything extra!

Charles.

[gerleatherberman]

Awesome. Thank you, Charles!

[gregozedobe]

Just a bit of info re replacing red LEDS wth white ones.  Most white LEDs I've come across require a higher voltage than red ones, and as a result don't work very well (if at all) on a single 3V LED (eg CR1220), unless there are some electronics that increase the voltage (this is not common on cheaper setups).  Often you will get better illumination with a red LED (or an amber one in some cases) with simple single battery straight to LED setups.