How much of a Wenger can opener can I grind off without messing up how it sits?

[tommywp]

I want to use the Can opener like a poor mans in-line awl...opening boxes, poking holes, etc. The “tooth” on the bottom kind of gets in the way so I’d like to reshape it. But I suspect the tooth is what hits the spring when closed and I don’t want to mess up the way it sits.

How much do you think I can grind off? The shaded part, or the line closest to the knife, or somewhere inbetween???

 

[stoneshank]

I suspect this part is what rests at the spring but I don't have a Wenger nearby to check.

- stoneshank

[Myron]

Won't the very tip end of the cutting/shearing part also rest on the spring?  Seems to me you could take off the whole tooth part and the pointed end would still keep the tool from sinking too far in when folded up. 

[Vidar]

I haven't checked so I'm not going to guess where it touches or if it touches at all - the normal position might just be held by the flat area of the tool by the fulcrom.

What I can suggest though is to get some machinist blue coloring (or any other coloring that removes easily) and color the parts of the can opener in doubt. Then close the can opener, move it sideways a few times to rub it, and open it again. Any place where the color is missing is in contact.

[hiraethus]

I very much doubt that the tip of the can opener rests on the spring.

Push the can opener down into the knife while it's closed.  If it moves a bit, then the tang of the can opener is what's stopping it from sinking further and you can cut the hook off.  If it doesn't move, or is very stiff, then it's likely that the outer curve of the hook is what's preventing it from moving and you'll only be able to remove a bit of material from the tip of the hook.

[Dutch_Tooler]

Looking at the general geometry, I think you don't need to apply such brutal mods to the can opener to make it suitable as a makeshift awl or for opening parcels. It should be sufficient just to sharpen the knife-edge bit and the tip.

[tommywp]

Thanks for the replies guys. Gave the can opener a wiggle/push and there was no movement. But then I pushed the can opener on a Pioneer with a can opener that I took the tooth off of to make a technician driver, and there was no wiggle/push there and it’s defiantely resting solely on the tang. Then that got me thinking that the Wenger has to be similar to the Vic in that the tang makes contact with the edge of the Spring when closed, other wise springs wouldn’t be tense (or so I’ve convinced myself). So I think I’m going to do it. Will post back when I do.

I know it will function as-is, but figured it might be cool to just have a claw.

[ReamerPunch]

The Wengers I have that are in good shape have claws that can cut paper. There is no doubt in my mind that they did not make it that sharp just to have it open cans. I am certain the shape and grind was deliberate, for awl intents and purposes.

[tommywp]

Copied these images of  the Vic layer and the Wenger layer from others posts.  The Vic can opener can definitely have the tooth ground off to make a technicians driver without affecting how it sits when closed...so it sits on the contact that it makes with the tang. The Wenger can opener looks like is sits in much the same way, though it seems like there might be less surface area in contact with the tang (though this could just be the pics).

A little concerned that so little of the tang makes contact, but I’m leaning towards thinking the tooth can be removed without causing problems.

[pfrsantos]

Looking at the general geometry, I think you don't need to apply such brutal mods to the can opener to make it suitable as a makeshift awl or for opening parcels. It should be sufficient just to sharpen the knife-edge bit and the tip.

General Geometry!

[pfrsantos]

Copied these images of  the Vic layer and the Wenger layer from others posts.  The Vic can opener can definitely have the tooth ground off to make a technicians driver without affecting how it sits when closed...so it sits on the contact that it makes with the tang. The Wenger can opener looks like is sits in much the same way, though it seems like there might be less surface area in contact with the tang (though this could just be the pics).

A little concerned that so little of the tang makes contact, but I’m leaning towards thinking the tooth can be removed without causing problems.

Seems like you figured it out right in your first pic, when you shaded the point of the tooth. Maybe you should leave a small bit of material so it doesn't slip when trying to open a can.