The Definitive SAK Sharpening Thread

[Myron]

For as long as I can remember, I've been frustrated in my attempts to keep the factory edge on my SAKs.  A couple years ago, I picked up the Vx ceramic rod sharpening stick.  It's a dandy little thing that's easily kept nearby and I've had pretty good luck with it.  But my results are inconsistent. 

Prior to that I've experimented with various sharpening stones, but I never had much success with any of those and mostly managed to put a bunch of ugly swirly marks on the blades. 

So, I'm wondering what other Swiss Army Knights do for sharpening.  Do you have a favorite technique or tool?  Please share your experience.

Myron

[Ron Who]

I prefer hand sharpening on a stone. But I don´t think it´s important how you do it, the most important is practice.

[VICMAN]

So, I'm wondering what other Swiss Army Knights do for sharpening.  Do you have a favorite technique or tool?  Please share your experience.

Myron

I use an EZE-LAP Model "M" round diamond sharpener and a Victorinox Pocket Sharpening Steel (the top 2 in the picture)

I use the diamond sharpener  to put the initial edge on and finish up with the steel.  Once you have established a good edge you can just use the steel regularly to maintain the edge. This allows you to maintain the edge without removing any metal.

The diamond sharpener removes metal while the steel merely realigns the edge without removing any metal. 

Alternate on the sides so that you use the same number of strokes on each side.

When establishing an edge start with firm pressure and gradually lighten up on the pressure until the final strokes are just using the weight  of the knife for pressure. This will allow you to establish a hair shaving edge.

The same holds for the steel. Finish up using only the weight of the knife for pressure.

It is important that you maintain the same angle on each side.

If you are sharpening a SAK you can lay the blade flat against the steel and then raise the back approximately the width of the thickness of the back of the blade.

I agree with Ron that whatever method you use the most important is practice.

[MacGyver]

This, is all i need/use to sharpen my Sak's:



 

[Myron]

This, is all i need/use to sharpen my Sak's:

(Image removed from quote.)

 

Yes, thanks MacGyver.  That's the same tool I've been using and generally I've been happy with it.  But as Vicman points out, it does remove steel.  I think I'll give one of his sharpening steels a try as a finishing step. 

I use an EZE-LAP Model "M" round diamond sharpener and a Victorinox Pocket Sharpening Steel (the top 2 in the picture)

I use the diamond sharpener  to put the initial edge on and finish up with the steel.  Once you have established a good edge you can just use the steel regularly to maintain the edge. This allows you to maintain the edge without removing any metal.

The diamond sharpener removes metal while the steel merely realigns the edge without removing any metal. 

Alternate on the sides so that you use the same number of strokes on each side.

When establishing an edge start with firm pressure and gradually lighten up on the pressure until the final strokes are just using the weight  of the knife for pressure. This will allow you to establish a hair shaving edge.

The same holds for the steel. Finish up using only the weight of the knife for pressure.

It is important that you maintain the same angle on each side.

If you are sharpening a SAK you can lay the blade flat against the steel and then raise the back approximately the width of the thickness of the back of the blade.

I agree with Ron that whatever method you use the most important is practice.

Thanks Vicman!  Very helpful.  I think I will give this a try. 

Anyone else have a preferred method?

[VICMAN]

[quote author=MacGyver link=topic=78569.msg1759741#msg1759741

Thanks Vicman!  Very helpful.  I think I will give this a try. 

Anyone else have a preferred method?

You are welcome Myron!

[gene stoner]

I've been using the Work sharp for about a year and a half with very happy results especially with my 111mm serrated blades. The diamond stones are almost the perfect size for the plane edge and I'm very happy with the 20 degree angle guide. It's a good angle for the chisels grind blade.
The small ceramic fits the serrations perfectly.  Along with the large ceramic and the strop on the back and Luke Skywalker wishes his lightsaber was as sharp as my SAK's

[Aloha]

Theres no one way to do it thats for sure.  I think for me the key is not letting the blade get overly dull.  If you can, at the end of a lot of usage run the blade across some ceramic rods.  Could be end of the day, beginning of the day, whatever.  Stropping is good too, but this also requires patience to learn the angle and perfect your technique.  You can round the apex as I've done early on.  Lansky Turn Box is a nice inexpensive way to accomplish simple blade maintenance. 

When I think "sharpen" I think the blade needs a reestablished bevel.  Mostly what SAK users need is realigning the apex.  A few swipes down ceramic rods for me followed up with some stropping and my SAK all push cut news paper. 

[cbl51]

A SAK is maybe the easiest pocket knife to sharpen. I'e aways used a small diamond Ezelap one that looks like a small pen, or the model L cut down to fit in a wallet. If no small diamond hone in around, I'll use the unglazed ring on the bottom of most coffee mugs. Hey, it's ceramic and works great and theres no shortage of coffee mugs where ever you are. I'l finish off with a stropping on the back of my leather belt that holds my pants up. You can also use the cardboard bak of a notebook or legal pad to strop it. If you don't wait until it's actually dull, most often a goof stropping will bring it back with no metal removed with a stone of any kind. Don't over think it. Strop often to avoid having to remove metal unneeded.

And to repeat, practice pays off with being able to sharpen anywhere on darn near anything. Even a very smooth stone out of a creek can work well. Like with all sharpening mediums, use light pressure. You idon'thave to bear down on whatever it is, because SAK steel is not a cobalt machine tool with high hardness. Easy does it.

I did a youtube video some years ago called instinctive sharpening. They still may be there. At the same time I demonstrated sharpening with some piece of stone out of a gravel parking  lot. Too much has been made of knife sharpening by self promoting guru's who have a sharpening gizmo to sell. Their real aims get your money out of your pocket and into theirs.

Edit to add; If anyone in the Austin Texas area has the knowledge on how to post a youtube video, I'll volunteer to make another video on how to sharpen a SAK from dull to shaving sharp in three minutes. Or even a video for just you all on this forums. It's sooooo easy it should be criminal fraud to sell all those gizmos for some respectable price tags to sharpen knives.

[gerleatherberman]

Theres no one way to do it thats for sure.  I think for me the key is not letting the blade get overly dull.  If you can, at the end of a lot of usage run the blade across come ceramic rods.  Could be end of the day, beginning of the day, whatever.  Stropping is good too, but this also require patience to learn the angle and perfect your technique.  You can round the apex as I've done early on.  Lansky Turn Box is a nice inexpensive way to accomplish simple blade maintenance. 

When I think "sharpen" I think the blade needs a reestablished bevel.  Mostly what SAK users need is realigning the apex.  A few swiped down ceramic rods for me followed up with some stropping and mine SAK all push cut news paper.

+1.

Stropping has been the best thing I started doing. I use stainless steel buffing compound on the leather strop(I just rub the compound stick on the leather until it feels "right"). And in the rare even I need to do more, I just use a fine Wasmurfa stone. But, ceramic rods are great too.
If I damage a SAK blade, I use the lansky system. Can't recommend Lansky enough for damaged blades.

[Motman241]

If I damage a SAK blade, I use the lansky system. Can't recommend Lansky enough for damaged blades.

I agree - damaged blades, abused/very used blades, reprofiles, etc.

[smiller43147]

I find the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker to be effective and almost foolproof.
And as Aloha pointed out, don't wait for the knife to really become dull before touching it up.

[Myron]

Guys,

This is all really great info.  I've been using the Vx ceramic rod and do use it on a regular basis.  I've had pretty good luck with it. 

I will be trying some of these other methods and especially want to learn about stropping, since I also do a little leather work. 

I hope this thread will continue; it's great hearing about people's preferred tools and techniques.

Thanks again,

Myron

[Frailer]

I just use good old fashioned Arkansas stones most of the time. I can’t imagine how you’re getting swirl marks on the blades, unless you’re sharpening at much too shallow an angle. The blade flats should never get anywhere close to the stone.

Compared to many knives, SAKs are a joy to sharpen. My wife has some fairly high-end kitchen knives, and I’m careful to keep these touched-up, as sharpening them after they get dull is a real [insert expletive here].

[CallsignBadger]

I use a ceramic “V” rod sharpener, works like a dream!

Good luck on your search 

[Sawl Goodman]

I used a kitchen steel before I bought a Vic ceramic sharpener, and I feel one works as well as the other. The Vic sharpener is my travel sharpener.

I've also used and can vouch for the bottom of a coffee mug as a honer. The fine river stone trick also works in an emergency. I had to use this method at work the other day.

For serious sharpening and reprofiling (I buy used and encounter the occasional damaged blade), I use a whetstone and finish with the steel or Vic sharpener.

If you are sharpening a SAK you can lay the blade flat against the steel and then raise the back approximately the width of the thickness of the back of the blade.

I've always been sort of "intuitive" about the angle, until now. I'll use this guideline in the future. Thank you!

[jaya_man]

I used to use the Vic dual sharpener pictured above... but couldn’t get it back to factory sharp... Then I tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker... Better than Vic’s sharpener, but got inconsistent results with the angle... Especially close to the tips... Nowadays I use the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System... I find I get even better results and even more controlled angles... I still use the Spyderco Sharpmaker to sharpen scissors... (It has a dedicated angle on the side which is perfect for scissors...

Like what Ron said... The key is practice and patience... The latter I just don’t have at times...

I also use a leather strop with some compound afterwards...

[VICMAN]

If you are sharpening a SAK you can lay the blade flat against the steel and then raise the back approximately the width of the thickness of the back of the blade.

I've always been sort of "intuitive" about the angle, until now. I'll use this guideline in the future. Thank you!

You are welcome Sawl!

You do gradually get to where you can feel the angle that a blade is sharpened at and match it intuitively.

[gustophersmob]

I used to use the Vic dual sharpener pictured above... but couldn’t get it back to factory sharp... Then I tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker... Better than Vic’s sharpener, but got inconsistent results with the angle... Especially close to the tips... Nowadays I use the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System... I find I get even better results and even more controlled angles... I still use the Spyderco Sharpmaker to sharpen scissors... (It has a dedicated angle on the side which is perfect for scissors...

Like what Ron said... The key is practice and patience... The latter I just don’t have at times...

I also use a leather strop with some compound afterwards...

This is basically my exact setup.  I use a lansky system to set the edge, and then a dual sided leather strop (3000 grit on one side, 6000 on the other) to finish and maintain.  Unless I let it get really dull, I don't have to go back to the stones much at all.  I just strop one a week or so, and I'm good to go.

At this point, though, I think I would get by just fine by freehand sharpening on a stone.  I just don't want to buy one 

[Ron Who]

About the coffee mug and the riverbed stone - these are good in the great outdoors (most people don´t carry sharpening systems). So for some of us, hand sharpening is a valuable skill to acquire.

[CallsignBadger]

So for some of us for all of us, hand sharpening is a valuable skill to acquire.

 

[TazzieRob]

I've just been using a DC4 and leather strop

[ghiekorg]

Do you guys actually sharpen a new SAK when you but it? I mean, i guess they are pretty sharp but not really razor sharp. Is it enough to just pass it on a strop? (just asking, i don't really know if i always want a razor sharp blade in my pocket, i am already enough "gifted" to often cut myself) 

[Mechanickal]

An Outrider that I received had an underwhelming edge when I unboxed it.
So I gave it a few strikes on a honing steel and it came out perfect.

I usualy leave the factory edge on shelf queens and sharpen the users when needed.

[Singh]

I use  a Chef's Choice model 120 electric sharpener.   It keeps all my knives hair-popping, shaving sharp.  And it's SO EASY.

 

[Myron]

I usualy leave the factory edge on shelf queens and sharpen the users when needed.

This is my strategy too.

[magentus]

Nice to see how many different systems people here use.

I use a chefs steel sometimes, but more often than not I'll just have to touch up the blade on a ceramic rod I found at a scrap store and modded, and then a strop on a piece of leather with some green compound on it. I've also got a DC4 which gets some occasional use.

[Aloha]

I tuned up a few SAKs and blades yesterday.  I used my Lansky ceramic rods then stropped on leather with green compound.  All are wickedly sharp with very little time invested.  I'll restate that letting your edges get overly dull to begin with should be kept to a minimum.  There will be little need to actually sharpen vs hone.

[ThePeacent]

I mostly use the Sharpmaker,
and I mostly use it for touch ups

never let it get too dull 

[ghiekorg]

I only have a victorinox stick/Rod (i Don’t know how to call that in English)
As I would like to buy also some kitchen knives soon (maybe at some second hand shop and make them great again), I think I will get a lansky too. I have been watching s lot of videos lately about that and it seems the best option for people with no experience with wetstones (and not a lot of money). And, after that, stropping using green (or green+red) compound. I will buy them with my next salary. I hope I can wait that long at least 😊 this stuff is addicting.