Help me understand... the Barlow

[Mizedog]

I know there's an incredible history behind the design.  I know it is mentioned in classic literature.  I see it dominates the Let's See Your Traditional Knife thread.

But,  I just don't get it.  Why is it so popular? 

This is the only one I own (was a gift),  and is ancient.  It just sits in my knife drawer.
Help me me understand. It didn't call to me.



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[gerleatherberman]

I wouldn't be impressed by a knife design either, if my only example was in that condition. 

A good start may be ordering a 'cheaper' version, like a Rough Rider. And see how you like it.

I like the Barlow, because it is simple, strong, and looks nice (the good ones anyway).

My favorite Barlow is a Red Bone Primble. One of the better quality knives I have handled. 

[AimlessWanderer]

Cheap. Simple. Effective. Comfortable.

They come with one blade or two blades. I don't see the need for more than that. Personally, I think that if you need a third blade, you chose poorly for the first two. Having a couple of different blade types can be very useful at times, but most people have no need of three or more different types. I have owned whittler and stockman patterns, but have been steadily parting with them for several years. My last three bladed knife is due to cross the Atlantic as soon as my health lets me go and post it. (I do have a congress in a little carving set, but keep forgetting about that one. I really ought to dig that one out)

The simple construction and single bolster of the Barlow reduces manufacturing costs over double ended knives, including other two bladed ones such as the canoe or muskrat patterns. It also allows for a greater swell in the hand, for more comfortable handling. I really like the look too, but I think they look a little "too" simple to fans of other patterns.



The only downsides to them in my opinion, are unlike a senator or a doctors knife, the absence of the second bolster makes it more prone to damage if dropped. Also, the main clip blade can be a little more prone to inadvertant closure if you are inexperienced/untaught on safe slipjoint use, particularly on tip penetrating cuts. As can be seen on my buffalo horn scaled version above, the point is quite forward of the central axis of the knife handle. Stabbing the tip through cloth, or a plastic bottle or whatever, or drilling a hole with the tip in wood or leather, can lead to the blade closing on you if you don't know how to do it safely. A spear or pen blade on a canoe is less likely to do this, as the tip is typically better aligned with the handle axis (but then many Barlows have a spear as the second blade anyway).

Neither of these issues have been a problem for me, but I've been using slippies regularly for many years. Angling the knife slightly, or even pinching the blade in a certain way, lets me do pretty much any of the tasks that a lot of today's knife users would prefer a lock knife for (which tend to be a waste of time for me, as I handle them like slippies anyway).

[gerleatherberman]

Also notable is the wide variety of Barlow styles. Blade configurations and handle shapes can vary from era-of-production, cost of the knife and origin of the knife. Hopefully some of these I am posting will give you an idea of what you may want from a Barlow. There are also larger Barlow patterns, like the Grand Daddy, but I don't have any to show.


Here are the Barlows in my personal collection right now:



Smaller Barlow with Opposing end bolstered.



Kutmaster.



China produced.



Imperial.



Primble.



Case.



Keen Kutter by Bear & Sons.



Prov. Cut. Co.



Bulky & poorly made. Pakistan more than likely.

[NutSAK]

Here are a couple of good articles to read about Barlow history:


http://barlow-knives.com/history.htm

https://www.alloutdoor.com/2014/01/21/old-school-edc-history-barlow/

It should be kept in mind that the Barlow permeated early American culture because of its affordability.  It was a tool for the "every man".  Therefore, a knife patterned in the Barlow tradition should be made with relatively inexpensive, unfinished materials.  To me, this is as important as fitting the description of a bare-headed knife with a long bolster.  A Barlow with carbon blades and saw-cut bone slabs would fit that model perfectly--just as the one you have, Mizedog.  Many of the Barlows on the market today have become a bit too fancy to be considered a Barlow in the traditional sense, IMO.

[Dean51]

Also notable is the wide variety of Barlow styles. Blade configurations and handle shapes can vary from era-of-production, cost of the knife and origin of the knife. Hopefully some of these I am posting will give you an idea of what you may want from a Barlow. There are also larger Barlow patterns, like the Grand Daddy, but I don't have any to show.


Here are the Barlows in my personal collection right now:
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Smaller Barlow with Opposing end bolstered.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Kutmaster.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

China produced.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Imperial.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Primble.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Case.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Keen Kutter by Bear & Sons.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Prov. Cut. Co.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

Bulky & poorly made. Pakistan more than likely.
(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

[Dean51]

It's a pattern that originated in Sheffield England in the late 1600’s and was actually meant to be an inexpensive working knife. The fact that it has remained popular for over 300 years is an impressive feat in itself. Like Nut said it was an every mans knife, it just didn't stay that way, today you'll find everything from workers to collectables. It is a very versatile pattern.
Basic Camco 551 Camillus's version of a work knife.

Camillus 51 the same knife in their standard line. My latest addition just came in yesterday.

Queen's workhorse line.

Canal Street.

Queen and a modern variation Lionsteel.

[David]

It's a pattern that originated in Sheffield England in the late 1600’s but and was actually meant to be an inexpensive working knife. The fact that it has remained popular for over 300 years is an impressive feat in itself. Like Nut said it was an every mans knife, it just didn't stay that way, today you'll find everything from workers to collectables. It is a very versatile pattern.
Basic Camco 551 Camillus's version of a work knife.
(Image removed from quote.)
Camillus 51 the same knife in their standard line. My latest addition just came in yesterday.
(Image removed from quote.)
Queen's workhorse line.
(Image removed from quote.)
Canal Street.
(Image removed from quote.)
Queen and a modern variation Lionsteel.
(Image removed from quote.)

       

[SteveC]

 

[Barry Rowland]

And  with Steve!!

[Mizedog]

Well, there you go. 
Thank you all for your time and insight.  I do appreciate it all. 

I do have an appreciate the Barlow, its history, and the niche it intended to, and did quite well, fill.

I have to admit that there are some beautiful examples show above.  Although I realize Barlows were intended to be accessible, and therefore traditionally a little rough, I am warming up to some of the nicer versions.  I’m more of a traditionalist who is attracted to bone covers, but do like that Lion Steel knife.

I did some research and was indeed happy to see there are some larger versions.  the Daddy Barlow with a 5” handle is right up my ally since I have big meats for hands.  Unfortunately, a 4” blade is not legally concealable in my state.  I may find one with a largish handle, but 3.5” blade.  That would be worth trying.  Admittadly, I would avoid the saw cut covers, and look for bone or antler.

I see the tradition of the clip blade, but also like the spear point versions above. 

We’ll see.  I’ve been trying to move to one small SAK, and a traditional lately.  Maybe this would be a great next find.


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[Mizedog]

Ok.  buffalo horn is DEFINITELY up there with bone and antler.  So nice...


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[Dean51]

Ok.  buffalo horn is DEFINITELY up there with bone and antler.  So nice...


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[SteveC]

 

[AimlessWanderer]

While I like the barlow pattern, and accept that to be totally Authentic to the originals, they should have unfinished materials like sawcut bone, I do prefer nicely finished ones. I also prefer stainless blades and backsprings, and they didn't have those originally either.

[NutSAK]

For collectables, I do love that Case you have with the scrollwork Al.  I think my favorite is that Queen Dean has with the horn slabs.  Just lovely.

I'm kinda partial to my '70 Case too, because it's purdy and traditional at the same time, and it's the only Barlow I have:

[SteveC]

I like the Bone covers as well   


20171207_091419 by SteveC, on Flickr

20171207_091435 by SteveC, on Flickr

20171207_091212 by SteveC, on Flickr

20171207_091237 by SteveC, on Flickr

[AimlessWanderer]

There's some fantastic looking Barlows on this thread! 

[Dean51]

While I like the barlow pattern, and accept that to be totally Authentic to the originals, they should have unfinished materials like sawcut bone, I do prefer nicely finished ones. I also prefer stainless blades and backsprings, and they didn't have those originally either.

I'm not sure you can even find anyone making a barlow that truly holds to the original concept. The original was designed at a time when wrought iron was common as a structural material and producing steel in quantity was still a relatively new concept.
Even old barlows from the 60's with delrin handles were polished up much nicer than the original was meant to be.
As much as I appreciate the older models I prefer stainless.

[Aloha]

There's some fantastic looking Barlows on this thread! 

+1 MILLION. 

WOW and here I was thinking the Barlow was not a pattern I much cared for.    to myself. 

[shark_za]

I'd love a cheap Barlow in a good working carbon steel.
Something I could not feel bad about abusing, like a Rat Model 1/2 or a KA-Bar Dozier.

I think the only one I have is a GEC 77 in African Blackwood.
More of a boutique knife than a hard user.



ps, if I wanted a traditional user I would get a slightly more modern pattern, the "Lannys Clip" made by a few makers.

[gerleatherberman]

For collectables, I do love that Case you have with the scrollwork Al.  I think my favorite is that Queen Dean has with the horn slabs.  Just lovely.

I'm kinda partial to my '70 Case too, because it's purdy and traditional at the same time, and it's the only Barlow I have:

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

I know I shouldn't, but seeing your Case Barlow has convinced me to put my old Case Barlow on the "to be polished" list.
That thing is gorgeous.

It's a pattern that originated in Sheffield England in the late 1600’s and was actually meant to be an inexpensive working knife. The fact that it has remained popular for over 300 years is an impressive feat in itself. Like Nut said it was an every mans knife, it just didn't stay that way, today you'll find everything from workers to collectables. It is a very versatile pattern.
Basic Camco 551 Camillus's version of a work knife.
(Image removed from quote.)
Camillus 51 the same knife in their standard line. My latest addition just came in yesterday.
(Image removed from quote.)
Queen's workhorse line.
(Image removed from quote.)
Canal Street.
(Image removed from quote.)
Queen and a modern variation Lionsteel.
(Image removed from quote.)

Those are just phenomenally beautiful, Dean! I can feel my wallet spinning right now after seeing those.

[NutSAK]

I know I shouldn't, but seeing your Case Barlow has convinced me to put my old Case Barlow on the "to be polished" list.
That thing is gorgeous.

Thanks!

I got lucky with that one and bought it unused.  When you say you shouldn't, are you worried about the collect-ability?  Screw it, make it like you want it, it's not like you're going to sell it anyway! 

Simichrome polish has always worked great for me.  The old Brasso too, but you can't find that anymore...

[gerleatherberman]

Thanks!

I got lucky with that one and bought it unused.  When you say you shouldn't, are you worried about the collect-ability?  Screw it, make it like you want it, it's not like you're going to sell it anyway! 

Simichrome polish has always worked great for me.  The old Brasso too, but you can't find that anymore...

True true. Thanks, NutSAK!

The one I have is in good shape, but someone took some sandpaper to it, at some point, to get the carbon stain off. Hopefully it'll polish up nicely. Just glad they didn't take it to a bench grinder, like I've seen before.

I have one can of the old Brasso left, so I'll give that a go. Thank you.

[Dean51]

I know I shouldn't, but seeing your Case Barlow has convinced me to put my old Case Barlow on the "to be polished" list.
That thing is gorgeous.

Thanks!

I got lucky with that one and bought it unused.  When you say you shouldn't, are you worried about the collect-ability?  Screw it, make it like you want it, it's not like you're going to sell it anyway! 

Simichrome polish has always worked great for me.  The old Brasso too, but you can't find that anymore...

I was at home depot the other day and they still have Brasso on the shelf there.

[NutSAK]

Thanks!

I got lucky with that one and bought it unused.  When you say you shouldn't, are you worried about the collect-ability?  Screw it, make it like you want it, it's not like you're going to sell it anyway! 

Simichrome polish has always worked great for me.  The old Brasso too, but you can't find that anymore...

True true. Thanks, NutSAK!

The one I have is in good shape, but someone took some sandpaper to it, at some point, to get the carbon stain off. Hopefully it'll polish up nicely. Just glad they didn't take it to a bench grinder, like I've seen before.

I have one can of the old Brasso left, so I'll give that a go. Thank you.

Since it has been sanded, you will likely need to sand it more, using progressively finer grits to remove the scratches that are there before you polish it.

Simichrome is more aggressive than Brasso, so on a heavily scratched blade I would suggest using it, or even jeweler's rouge and a dremel with a polishing tip.

[NutSAK]

I was at home depot the other day and they still have Brasso on the shelf there.

They still sell it, but it's nowhere near as effective as the old formula in the metal cans.

[Dean51]

I was at home depot the other day and they still have Brasso on the shelf there.

They still sell it, but it's nowhere near as effective as the old formula in the metal cans.

I didn't know that.
I have some old stuff here,  In the old in the metal can, it must be 30 years. I'm actually going to use it on a Army Air Corp medal today.

[NutSAK]

Yeah, I'll bet mine is that old too.  Luckily a little goes a long way.

I like to use Brasso on the finer things that don't need the more aggressive polishes, especially tarnished metal.  It's great for polishing cellidor too.

[gerleatherberman]

Since it has been sanded, you will likely need to sand it more, using progressively finer grits to remove the scratches that are there before you polish it.

Simichrome is more aggressive than Brasso, so on a heavily scratched blade I would suggest using it, or even jeweler's rouge and a dremel with a polishing tip.

Thank you, NutSAK! 

I would guess that 320-400grit was used on it before I got it. It is smooth to the touch, but I can see the striations in the dull metal surface.  I will get the worst of that out with the 8" low-speed buffing wheel with red compound(carefully to maintain edges)  and finish with the Simichrome or Brasso by hand.

The buffing wheel and I have a close relationship. I even polish SAK scales on one.