SAK Trekker: serrated or not?

[Bcemail]

About to get an SAK one handed trekker, and it comes with either serrated or smooth blade.  What's different is that it's the top of the blade which is serrated, which I don't think I've seen much.  Also, it seems like very fine serrations, again not what I'm used to.
Any one have any experiences or thoughts on this?  What would those serrations be good for, especially having them up top?  I know usually they're great for cutting boxes open, rope, etc., but didn't know if these small ones would be the same.
Use is for general stuff, EDC, when we go camping/hiking, when we are out in the garden/garage.

Thanks for all the great info around here!  Really helped my narrow down the choices when my old LM gave up the ghost.

[cody6268]

I eventually moved to the (now discontinued) Fireman, because I wouldn't have to choose as it has both the locking (non-OH) plain edge blade, and a curved, fully serrated "Belt cutter" that will make quick work of anything


As much as I dislike them, I'd go with serrated. You may have to use an OH blade quickly in an emergency, and being able to quickly cut through rope, seat belts, or who knows what else quickly can mean the difference between life or death.

[SirVicaLot]

  If you plan to focus more on everyday chores than on emergency related stuff, you could still go with the plain edge blade. Easier and faster to sharpen. That serrated blade is a beast though 

Maybe you just need both. One with plain edge, one with serrated blade 

[comis]

I think the partial serration towards the front make sense to me, especially for everyday use/food prep/camp chores, since I do most of these kind of cuttings closer to the handle.

I do collect and use 111mm, and personally, I definitely would recommend a plain edge.  Much much easier to maintain, both on field or at home, and for situation where the knife is so dull that you have to only rely on serration to cut is rather slim. 


Maybe a well design serration could cut fiber/rope/fabric slightly better, but again, I don't work for rescue and don't cut that much rope/fabric to choose serration over plain. 

[Thunderpants]

The non-serrated one-hand trekkers are pretty rare - I don't think we can even get them, in Europe (we have to get a Hunter XS or a Locksmith to get that awesome blade.)
I would definitely get the non-serrated version of anything purely for the ease of sharpening. Two swipes with a Spyderco triangular stone is usually all it takes to get those 111mm blades paper-slicin' sharp.

[comis]

The non-serrated one-hand trekkers are pretty rare - I don't think we can even get them, in Europe (we have to get a Hunter XS or a Locksmith to get that awesome blade.)
I would definitely get the non-serrated version of anything purely for the ease of sharpening. Two swipes with a Spyderco triangular stone is usually all it takes to get those 111mm blades paper-slicin' sharp.

Really?  Is it because of local law prohibiting the OHO or it is a distribution thing?  It is a rather common model found in most Vic store at home or US.

[Thunderpants]

There are plenty of OH trekkers available here in Germany as well as OH Foresters, Nomads etc. They're all serrated which cheeses me off a bit.
I see from the Victorinox web page they do offer a Forester with a non serrated OH blade! This is new to me! I might have to get one!

[Bcemail]

Thanks for all the help!  I wasn’t thinking enough about sharpening, I think, so I’m leaning toward plain edge.  I think I’d rather have an edge I can keep sharp.  I figure if I can keep it sharp I can still get through rope when I need to (and around the yard/campsite, this is usually fairly thin cordage).

There were some others that were very close to what I wanted but not quite (saw the OH Fireman, Forester, etc.).  I’m always annoyed when on the back side it has a corkscrew instead of a PH screwdriver.  I use a PH all the time; I’ve never used a corkscrew on a multitool.  If I’m stranded in the woods with a bottle of wine, I’ll get it open somehow. 

Was also thinking about the Rescue, since it adds that disc saw which looks nice, but it has a substantial jump in price and weight.
Think I will go plain edge on the one hand Trekker.  And as SirVicaLot suggested, maybe get another serrated blade to have around…can’t be too careful!

Thanks again!

[Thunderpants]

If you're stranded in the woods with a bottle of wine, you'll know it was a good party!

[SirVicaLot]

 

Btw: The corkscrew has more usages than just wine opening. It actually was worth a special mention here in the forum when someone used it for that purpose 

[gene stoner]

 For many years I loathed knife's that had a serrated main blade.

Like many of us I always check for sales on SAK's any place that they sell them. I was checking out the SAK's at a local store and they had Soldiers on clearance so cheap that you couldn't pass it up. I figured like any new SAK I would carry it for a few days just to play with it before putting it up.

After a few days I started to understand that the Vic 70 30 serrated blade was not the usual serrated blade. This thing worked like a partial serrated blade should work.

Most serrated blades with the serrations in the back do not save the sharp plane edge part for when you need it but the Vic design does. For me it's the most practical EDC blade I've ever used.

It's true the serrated blade takes longer to sharpen then the PE but it's the easiest serrated blade to sharpen that I've ever sharpened. Especially if you have a Work sharp. It like the Work Sharp was made to sharpen the Vic 70 30 serrated blade. The dimond stones are almost the perfect size to sharpen the PE and the small serrated sharpener is perfect for the serrations.

For me I notice ever year the need to have too cut more and more man made material that a PE blade won't cut ( like zip ties a d other plastic) so a serrated blade is for me becoming needed more and more every year.

I could probably go on for several more paragraphs about the advantages of the Vic blade but these are the main advantages of the Vic 70 30 serrated blade.

[comis]

For me I notice ever year the need to have too cut more and more man made material that a PE blade won't cut ( like zip ties a d other plastic) so a serrated blade is for me becoming needed more and more every year.

I could probably go on for several more paragraphs about the advantages of the Vic blade but these are the main advantages of the Vic 70 30 serrated blade.

Great point, I guess the serration upfront on 111mm is indeed perfect for this kinda task.   

[gustophersmob]

As has been said by several so far, if you are looking for a partially serrated blade, the Vic design makes a lot of practical sense.

That being said, I just don’t like the hassle of sharpening them, so both of my OHTs are plain edged.

[ddogu]

The non-serrated one-hand trekkers are pretty rare - I don't think we can even get them, in Europe (we have to get a Hunter XS or a Locksmith to get that awesome blade.)
I would definitely get the non-serrated version of anything purely for the ease of sharpening. Two swipes with a Spyderco triangular stone is usually all it takes to get those 111mm blades paper-slicin' sharp.

 

[Thunderpants]

 

[Bcemail]

For many years I loathed knife's that had a serrated main blade.

Like many of us I always check for sales on SAK's any place that they sell them. I was checking out the SAK's at a local store and they had Soldiers on clearance so cheap that you couldn't pass it up. I figured like any new SAK I would carry it for a few days just to play with it before putting it up.

After a few days I started to understand that the Vic 70 30 serrated blade was not the usual serrated blade. This thing worked like a partial serrated blade should work.

Most serrated blades with the serrations in the back do not save the sharp plane edge part for when you need it but the Vic design does. For me it's the most practical EDC blade I've ever used.

It's true the serrated blade takes longer to sharpen then the PE but it's the easiest serrated blade to sharpen that I've ever sharpened. Especially if you have a Work sharp. It like the Work Sharp was made to sharpen the Vic 70 30 serrated blade. The dimond stones are almost the perfect size to sharpen the PE and the small serrated sharpener is perfect for the serrations.

For me I notice ever year the need to have too cut more and more man made material that a PE blade won't cut ( like zip ties a d other plastic) so a serrated blade is for me becoming needed more and more every year.

I could probably go on for several more paragraphs about the advantages of the Vic blade but these are the main advantages of the Vic 70 30 serrated blade.

Very interesting...may just have to take both for a test drive.  Do you have a particular Work Sharp model that works on the serrated edge?  Thanks!

[Syncop8r]

I would have both in one if I could... https://www.victorinox.com/global/en/Products/Swiss-Army-Knives/Large-Pocket-Knives/Hunter-XT-Grip/p/0.8341.MC9

[gene stoner]

Very interesting...may just have to take both for a test drive.  Do you have a particular Work Sharp model that works on the serrated edge?  Thanks!

The field sharp.
https://www.worksharptools.com/guided-field-sharpener.html

[comis]

Spyderco Sharpmaker has constantly been my go-to for sharpening MTs, absolutely perfect for a quick touch-up. 


I too do have a worksharp field sharpener, but personally, I think the product is misleading and won't recommend it.  Most knives are not scandi grinded, so they will have a primary bevel and a secondary bevel(the cutting edge bevel) or a micro bevel on a flat grinded knife. 


And if you lean your knife primary bevel onto the 'angle guide' of the worksharp, the end result will not be 20 deg as labelled on the yellow bevel guide, unless you only have one bevel(true scandi grind) on your knife.  There are so many different knife shapes and dimensions, and probably each one has a different primary bevel angle, it is almost a guarantee that the end result edge will all have different angles, if you were to rely on that guide.   


I guess they might be trying to rectify the problem by writing a different angle on the clam shell, but this makes it even more confusing than ever.  I was so disappointed when I got it, and just kept it in the clam package all these years.  Calling it part of my novelty collection.   



But to be fair, Worksharp the electric sharpener is great, especially if you are using it like a mini grinding belt and don't rely on their 'angle guides'

[gene stoner]

Spyderco Sharpmaker has constantly been my go-to for sharpening MTs, absolutely perfect for a quick touch-up. 


I too do have a worksharp field sharpener, but personally, I think the product is misleading and won't recommend it.  Most knives are not scandi grinded, so they will have a primary bevel and a secondary bevel(the cutting edge bevel) or a micro bevel on a flat grinded knife. 


And if you lean your knife primary bevel onto the 'angle guide' of the worksharp, the end result will not be 20 deg as labelled on the yellow bevel guide, unless you only have one bevel(true scandi grind) on your knife.  There are so many different knife shapes and dimensions, and probably each one has a different primary bevel angle, it is almost a guarantee that the end result edge will all have different angles, if you were to rely on that guide.   


I guess they might be trying to rectify the problem by writing a different angle on the clam shell, but this makes it even more confusing than ever.  I was so disappointed when I got it, and just kept it in the clam package all these years.  Calling it part of my novelty collection.   



But to be fair, Worksharp the electric sharpener is great, especially if you are using it like a mini grinding belt and don't rely on their 'angle guides'

I use it for my chisel grind 111mm blade and it works like it was made to sharpen that blade. If you're getting a 111mm chisel grind serrated blade it's almost perfect. I didn't recommend it for other blades.

[comis]

I use it for my chisel grind 111mm blade and it works like it was made to sharpen that blade. If you're getting a 111mm chisel grind serrated blade it's almost perfect. I didn't recommend it for other blades.

That's cool it works for you and your chisel grind on serrated 111mm. I have no doubt it will sharpen knives, but I am just seriously doubting it will sharpen at a consistent angle from knife to knife, if you are relying on that angle guide.