Thanks all. I am having fun, i tend to go nuts with nothing to do.
Sod busters which I never liked have become a favorite this year, as close to perfect as the GEC is there's always room for improvement or to personalize.The #71 was a slight bit harder to open than I usually like, going to see if it can become a little easier to open and keep it's strong snap when locking open.The spring on the GEC is just a bit shorter than the tang and that's not a problem other than it causes a bit more drag when opening.(Image removed from quote.)Tangs are usually left as stamped and only finished enough to fit and flush the back spring. In this case I cleaned up the stamping marks and put a small angle (less than 10 degrees) on the tang end that contacts the spring. That made the first 10 or 15 percent of the opening much smother but didn't affect the rest of the opening. I then added a small half radius to the tangs corner that smoothed it out until it was half way to the half stop. Where it still snaps in with authority.If I can explain it better. I rounded the first part of the tangs corner but stopped half way and didn't put a full radius in the corner. (Image removed from quote.)I didn't want to soften up the opening snap just smooth it out a bit, so the opposite tang corner got a very small radius. Really just took the 90 degree corner off.It came out better than expected, now it's the perfect GEC sodbuster. (Image removed from quote.)
Hmmm nothing to do huh. Let's see here. May be Moose might get loose and come down for a visit.
Many questions......What grinder are you using? Grinding edge up?Speed? (just for interest sake)I'm very much interested in your technique simply because I can't figure out a way that will give such nice results and not lead to some cut belts.Flip it over and cut fingers is the next option
This is the grinder I'm using, it's a Ryobi 4x36. It's a good mower blade sharpener but the plate is one piece folded to fit. that fold makes the edge of the plate not perfectly flat all the way to the sides. You need to work on the side of the plate to get all the way to the tang, technique is needed to overcome that.I'm going to make a 1 1/2" x 1/2" cut out on the rolled edge of the plate and correct that.(Image removed from quote.)This is the grinder I want, My grinder is 1 hp and can run 2 10" wheels but I only keep one wheel on it at a time so it will spin up faster. I could bolt this attachment to the right side and be good to go.Multitool 4x48, sold by Trick-Tools(Image removed from quote.) Grinding (Image removed from quote.)Grinder speed is default for the machine. The secret is no more than two passes before cooling in water and never apply to much pressure. Especially at the tip, a blade will pick up heat fast there. I'm a bit paranoid about heat, I won't let the blade get more than comfortable luke warm. I have a gizmo that will slow down an AC motor and still let it retain torque but I don't use it.Don't worry about cutting belts even at .014 behind the edge you're still .007 from the belt. The first blade that wasn't practice I did nick the spine with the 80 grit belt, it cleaned up nicely. well mostly any way, at least it was not an expensive knife.Laying the blade on the belt is just technique kind of like free handing. When you're an 1/8 from the belt level the blade , lower and level, lower and level then gently touch the belt level and grind. My technique is to hold the knife like you were cutting a waist high box just firm enough to have control of the handle. Rest the butt of my other hand on the opposite side of the knife. The reason I use one finger on the blade is it's very easy to over grind the belly of the knife, using one finger allows you to keep pressure on the spine in the tip and belly area. Or apply more pressure to an area that might need more grinding. Work with a wet blade and finger tip so it will slide under your finger better.To grind I work the blade two ways either pull the blade under my finger or pull my finger back towards the tip either way works. To work the tip and belly area and keep at least some finger prints I work it separably as I go. Instead of sliding my finger off the tip onto the belt. I use the handle and apply slight up words lift to the handle for the tip and belly area. That tip/belly area is the one you have to watch, with less metal it's easy to over grind or worse yet over heat.Keep water handy.A micrometer or caliper is needed with very little practice you can hold plus or minus .001 to .0005.band aids. you never know. I've never drawn blood but did loose a couple layers of skin working a Queen city muskrat tip.This is hard to explain, it makes sense to me but not sure it it will come out and mean anything to you.
I mostly understand your technique but not sure I could pull it off as well as you do.
This is the grinder I want, My grinder is 1 hp and can run 2 10" wheels but I only keep one wheel on it at a time so it will spin up faster. I could bolt this attachment to the right side and be good to go.Multitool 4x48, sold by Trick-Tools
Thanks for taking the time to reply Dean I'm struggling with belt and platen issues, but looking at your photos I realized I need to setup my grinder differently at get more angles of attack While getting advice on the above-mentioned issue a knife maker my senior in years and experienced explained to me why the disc grinder is such an indispensable tool....looks like that machine has the bases covered.
You can't really find a great platen on a grander from shelf stock at Lowe's.There are belt grinders dedicated to knives but they are way out of my league and budget.
Tangs are usually left as stamped and only finished enough to fit and flush the back spring. In this case I cleaned up the stamping marks and put a small angle (less than 10 degrees) on the tang end that contacts the spring. That made the first 10 or 15 percent of the opening much smother but didn't affect the rest of the opening.
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