Sharpening methods

[SteveC]

Thanks for finding that old thread. 

[Poncho65]

  I love a lot of the old threads

[David Bowen]

Thanks for the old thread mention, I'll check it out.

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[Poncho65]

I also need to note that I had no clue about the Spyderco Sharpmaker until I joined

So, I just had to have one from all the older members recommendations 

I also have added a a Fallkniven DC4, some EZE branded credit card diamond sharpeners,  different Arkansas stone sharpeners and probably some other stuff I have forgotten about since that picture feom the other thread. My explanation of how I sharpen is still basically the same though 

[temo]

Quite good multisharpening / smaller tool for all purpose sharpening tasks.

Lähetetty minun SM-F721B laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[David Bowen]

I also need to note that I had no clue about the Spyderco Sharpmaker until I joined

So, I just had to have one from all the older members recommendations 

I also have added a a Fallkniven DC4, some EZE branded credit card diamond sharpeners,  different Arkansas stone sharpeners and probably some other stuff I have forgotten about since that picture feom the other thread. My explanation of how I sharpen is still basically the same though 

I may have gotten the Sharpmaker because of mto, don't remember. It's such a reliable system and does a good job at maintaining an edge.

@temo I've got a work sharp field sharpener on the way, curious to see how it performs.

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[D-Eg]

I actually just started freehand sharpening - before I used either the WEN Gourmet's Edge Sharpener or the Work Sharp machine. I have since moved to a Norton Stone. I also have a Hook-Eye Cutlery Grinder but have never used it. I bought it when I recently became more interested in knives and a guy on another knife forum cautioned me using it, now I am scared of it. 

[David Bowen]

Anyone use a WS Precision Adjust? I've used a bunch of fixed angle sharpeners, but first time using the WSPA. Only thing I found odd at first was the width of the stones considering the standard I've been working with was 1". But, I went through the stone progression and ended with the strop and OMG I can push cut paper and hair jumps from my arm. I can get similar results with other systems but I'm impressed. I really think the ceramic/strop is what took it next level.

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[Singh]

I use an electric sharpener. The Chef's Choice 120 works really well. I run the knives through stages two and three, then follow up with a two or three feather-light passes with an accusharp hand sharpener.  It takes less than 5 minutes and I get an edge that is hair-popping razor sharp. For really dull knives I give them a pass through stage one first. I sharpen the kitchen knives twice a year and they stay razor sharp.

I tip my hat to the sharpening gurus who get razor sharp edges  from using ceramic mugs, car windows, or sharpening rods. All those methods require that you hold the knife at exactly the right angle, or they don’t work worth a poop. I’m just not that steady.

The only things I sharpen by hand are my mora knives and scissors, because the bevel is big enough for me to follow accurately with a diamond sharpening card.

[David Bowen]

I've never used electric sharpeners, maybe someday. Awesome that is giving you good results. I've never used coffee mugs or car windows but I've heard stories. Living here in the deep south freehand sharpening is king. I can get a pretty sharp blade freehand, enough to cleanly slice paper but not hair shaving. Maybe one of these days I'll get there. I think I don't have a high enough grit stone, maybe it's angle. All of my sharpening is done via fixed angle systems, which seem to be very popular these days.

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[IMR4198]

   Nobody has mentioned sharpening these serrated and combo edge blades.  I have had several through the years, but never used one enough to have to sharpen it.  My late pal used to do it for his customers with a diamond file.  I watched him do a Spyderco for someone.  Don't know if he got it sharp or not. 
   I was over at his house one day and noticed he was using my black Arkansas razor hone.  I remembered showing it to him one time and evidently, he just kept it.  Never said a word about having it.  I never missed having it, or I would have done my usual 'turn the house upside down looking for it routine.'  He offered to buy it.  I said nu-uh.
    Best wishes.  G
 

[David Bowen]

For sharpening started I've been using my Sharpmaker. Does an excellent job and it's easy to use. Instead of alternating left-right on the flats of the stone you use the edge. Then doing three times on the cut side and ones on the backside. Doing this for a few times and depending on how long it's been since being touched up it shouldn't take long.

Before the Sharpmaker I would use a tapered diamond file, and it would absolutely butcher things.

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[algernonramone]

Quite good multisharpening / smaller tool for all purpose sharpening tasks.(Image removed from quote.)

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This one's my favorite, I use it for all my sharpening right now. Like to get a bigger/better system someday, but for now this does the job, and does it well.

[Doc]

I have the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite, and Field Sharpener, some Lansky Pucks (love ‘em), and a Norton oil stone (love it).  My sharpening skills are definitely not a strong point, but I muddle my way through most of my collection okay because I am definitely not a knife steel snob.  The vast majority of my knives are 1095, so I don’t need to be particularly proficient.  I do want to add this, hoping I don’t get kicked of this thread for posting abomination, but after decades of muddling my way through better or worse sharpening attempts, I have discovered the absolute joy of relying  VERY heavily on utility blades.  I always have a knife and an MT on me, and it varies day to day as to which.  However, over the past year or so I have become a utility blade kool-aid drinker.  I use them for at least 80% of my cutting tasks, and they cut much better than any blade I can sharpen.  I think my favorite aspect is when I notice a decline in slicing ability, just spinning the blade around or changing it out in less than a minute, including the walk to the box of blades.  Cool?  Nope.  Lazy?  Maybe.  I have my BK 2, 7, 14, 18, et al, for extraordinary  (for me) tasks, but given day to day cutting chores, I don’t need to sharpen any more, which I think is a very good thing.

[chip]

I  have a tormek t4  I use for chisels and kitchen knifes .i have a large family so there is always someone who needs a kitchen knife sharpening.

A work sharp Ken onion elite I use on my axe and large knives I wish to put a convex edge on.

A work sharp professional precision adjust for larger pocket knives.

Then a world of whetstones and diamond plates, some guided some not I use for smaller kitchen, pocket and scandi grind knives.

I love sharpening knives and I am still learning to sharpen free hand. And given all family members previously bought cheap kitchen knives, used them till
They were completely blunt before replacing them they were happy for me to practice which ever sharpening method I pleased with them because I was saving them money.  and it would not matter if I made a dogs dinner of them (never have yet) because they would have been destined for the bin  if I hadn’t offered to sharpen them for free.

[chip]

Also, worksharp have just released an elite mark 2
Which I don’t need as it does not do anything I can’t do on my mark 1, but it is easier and quicker to adjust with an easier to precisely set speed controller.

I keep telling myself I don’t need it but I don’t know how long I can resist.

[Vidar]

You all have this modern new stuff!  This somewhat reliable water stone have sharpened lots of knives over the years. It actually started out with a far bigger diameter... Still works!  Two man operation works as social media too!

[Mike 56]

Over the years I have bought a lot of different sharping tools. Most of them are not very good at taking a rounded dull blade back to razor sharp. I buy old rusty tools and knives a lot of them have broken tips, hatches, hammers, and other tools. I found it very easy to regrind an edge on a knife using a Harbor Fright one-inch belt sander with a 600 belt. Practice with an old table knife. Next, I use the fine side of a Worksharp Field sharpener with some WD-40 on the plate. It only takes two or three alternating passes. Then do a few passes with a white ceramic rod and finish up by stropping on a cheap mouse pad almost flat with very little pressure without compound. Swiss Army knives, cheap knives, sharpen up nice But the old carbon steel knives turn out crazy sharp. The stone I carry with me is an Opinel four-inch stone.

[Sos24]

I’ve been using a DMT Aligner set for a long while.  It seems to work pretty good for most my knives.  I’ve tried a couple other systems, but seeing that most my knives are pocket knives it seems to work well.  I have replaced a couple of the stones.

[David Bowen]

This one's my favorite, I use it for all my sharpening right now. Like to get a bigger/better system someday, but for now this does the job, and does it well.

Nothing wrong with the Field Sharpener. I have one, and it's one of WS"s best selling items for a reason. Mine doesn't get used no where as much as it should. It takes the simplicity of freehand, and gives a little assistance for those new to sharpening.

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[David Bowen]

I have the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite, and Field Sharpener, some Lansky Pucks (love ‘em), and a Norton oil stone (love it).  My sharpening skills are definitely not a strong point, but I muddle my way through most of my collection okay because I am definitely not a knife steel snob.  The vast majority of my knives are 1095, so I don’t need to be particularly proficient.  I do want to add this, hoping I don’t get kicked of this thread for posting abomination, but after decades of muddling my way through better or worse sharpening attempts, I have discovered the absolute joy of relying  VERY heavily on utility blades.  I always have a knife and an MT on me, and it varies day to day as to which.  However, over the past year or so I have become a utility blade kool-aid drinker.  I use them for at least 80% of my cutting tasks, and they cut much better than any blade I can sharpen.  I think my favorite aspect is when I notice a decline in slicing ability, just spinning the blade around or changing it out in less than a minute, including the walk to the box of blades.  Cool?  Nope.  Lazy?  Maybe.  I have my BK 2, 7, 14, 18, et al, for extraordinary  (for me) tasks, but given day to day cutting chores, I don’t need to sharpen any more, which I think is a very good thing.

Nothing wrong with utility blades, many people use them in place of knives that need sharpening. Sharpening is a skill that some people have yet to master, and utility blade knives are popular for that reason. Plus there's a host of blades with titanium all the way to DeWalt carbide. They can often have as good an edge retention as a good modern steel.

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[David Bowen]

I don't have any of the Ken Onion branded WS products yet, maybe in the future. I definitely want to check them out, my work uses one for guys in the meat dept who don't sharpen worth a toot

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[David Bowen]

I’ve been using a DMT Aligner set for a long while.  It seems to work pretty good for most my knives.  I’ve tried a couple other systems, but seeing that most my knives are pocket knives it seems to work well.  I have replaced a couple of the stones.

I've yet to check out a DMT Aligner, maybe this fall I'll get the chance. It's similar in function to the Lansky/Gatco I feel. DMT makes good products, I hear people complain about quality from time to time but nothing crazy.

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[chip]

Nothing wrong with the Field Sharpener. I have one, and it's one of WS"s best selling items for a reason. Mine doesn't get used no where as much as it should. It takes the simplicity of freehand, and gives a little assistance for those new to sharpening.

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I have been using the field sharpener for my traditional knives. What works best for me is rather than grip the end, I lay it flat on the palm of my hand.
That way it does not wobble  and it stops me from using too much pressure..

[chip]

This video has put me off the mk2 for now.
https://youtu.be/1R0zWkb2k6s?si=rItYEUnQPu3S2KJp

[Antti Lammi]

that looks handy

[chip]

I have the mk1 and it took some practice. Because if you are using a coarse grit or have the belt running too fast it’s easy to remove to much metal.
So until you perfect your consistency of pass keep it finer and belt speed slower. Then once you get your confidence you increase the speed to your sweet spot.

And start on knives that it does not matter if you dou ruin them.  I am quite proficient but still would worry about sharpening an expensivie knife for now because I’m not “muscle memory” good yet.

[chip]

I have the mk1 and it took some practice. Because if you are using a coarse grit or have the belt running too fast it’s easy to remove to much metal.
So until you perfect your consistency of pass keep it finer and belt speed slower. Then once you get your confidence you increase the speed to your sweet spot.

And start on knives that it does not matter if you you ruin them.  I am quite proficient but still would worry about sharpening an expensive knife for now because I’m not “muscle memory” good yet.

[AzteCypher]

I picked up a used Mk1 but I still need to learn how to use it.  Give it a bit of a go on my lawnmower blade and I did ok.  Definitely need more practice before I start using it on my nice knives.

[pfrsantos]

I picked up a used Mk1 but I still need to learn how to use it.  Give it a bit of a go on my lawnmower blade and I did ok.  Definitely need more practice before I start using it on my nice knives.

That's what kitchen knives and Opinels are for.