Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => Edged Tools => Topic started by: cody6268 on January 02, 2019, 11:53:52 PM
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I participated in the original Traditional challenge, but forgot to request the badge. I decided I'd just start over, as I've acquired a lot of new traditional knives since then.
Today I carried the Taylor's Eye Witness Lambsfoot in my jeans, and switched to a Zippo (Case) Cut About when I put my sweatpants on for the evening. Zippo knives are hugely underappreciated and go cheap, despite being mostly Case made and of excellent quality. The action on this lockback is some of the smoothest I've had.
(https://i.imgur.com/62etTIG.jpg)
And I also recently got the SMKW catalog. I'm interested in the 112LT, but will probably wait and see if SK Blades does a Shield or Smokejumper equivalent in the 112LT frame, as I like the steel and reasonable cost. I'm really liking my 110LT Shield a lot. On another note, Rough Rider is now "Rough Ryder" which in my mind is completely pointless, unless it was an older trademark SMKW is trying to hold on to (I've seen Rough Ryder knives made in Ireland in the early 1990s). Guess SMKW is trying to make them "collectible" as they did with the "parts bin special" LB-7s assembled in China with ISC parts.
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Looking forward to this challenge! :tu:
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Sounds a great challenge :tu: :like:
Good luck cody :cheers:
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:iagree:
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Good luck in the challenge and great pic to start us with :like: :like:
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Good luck in your challenge cody ! :tu:
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1980s Camillus Cub Scout. In my mind, the best of the Scout-type knives, particularly those typically found for under $20 and in good condition. My favorite features are the locks on the awl and screwdriver (where you're likely to be applying a downward, twisting motion) but not on its small blade (where with that size, it's rarely necessary, plus the CSA has a half-stop on its blade). Plus, after years of carrying a Medium Stockman, I'm just used to the size. Same reason I carry the Victorinox Tourist more than the Spartan.
The brochure is for the American LaFrance Patriot, a model originally designed by Hahn before the ALF buyout in 1991. The Patriot was produced here in Bluefield from 1992-1994. The belt buckle is for the flagship model produced during the Bluefield-era of American LaFrance (1986-1994), the Century 2000, and represents the first one built, originally delivered to Albany, New York. It is a limited edition, serial number 71 out of 300? (I haven't seen anything bigger than the high 200s for serials on these), produced in 1989 by Creative Concepts of Washington, WV. Toy fire truck is the Majorette "Pompier" from the late 1980s, and is a generic model based off the first generation Elmira, NY made CEntury (made from the late 1970 to early 1980s. A few were built as special order one offs at the department's request in Bluefield
(http://i.imgur.com/WwR4VMH.jpg) (https://imgur.com/WwR4VMH)
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Good write up cody :tu: :like:
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I had one many years back and it was a great knife!
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Landers, Frary, and Clark 0288 Wharncliffe. My oldest folder, dating to the late 1920s-early 1930s. Oldest I've seen is in a 1928 catalog. Great snap, and minimal wobble. Action is incredibly smooth, rivaling $100 knives. The only big problem is that the "Improved Stag" or "Rubberoid" (Bakelite) scales are cracked. At least LF&C had enough sense to use something that doesn't outgas. Keep trying to retire it, but no one makes a true "Wharncliffe" pattern today, just serpentine pen knives with a Wharncliffe main. No one makes 'em like they used to!
Along with my oldest knife period, a J. Russell Green River Works wallpaper hanger's knfie, dating from the 1860s to early 1900s; though I think it's from the 1880s-1890s more specifically. In pretty decent shape for something over a century old; with only paint (or plaster) on its wood handle.
(http://i.imgur.com/ejqPiFn.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ejqPiFn)
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Very nice!!
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:like:
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:tu: :like:
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:like:
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Excellent challenge cody :tu: :like:
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2014 Case Carhartt Wharncliffe Mini Trapper in "Rugged Duck" G-10. Hard to believe I waited about 4 years to buy this knife. They first appeared at Magic Mart, a local (now defunct) department store chain for $60, then $40, then at that price for years. This past summer, during the closing sale, I got it for $28. Interesting was that it was the only Case left at that point, when everything was just 30 percent off. Great grippy handle material and a strong half-stop. Problem is that like most Tru-Sharp Cases, I had to sharpen it out of the box. Considering getting another Mini Trapper, but there's just so many!
While watching Highway Thru H(e)ll tonight, I decided to rig it up to my Tomica Yokohama Super Ranger (an elite specialized urban search and rescue team attached to the Yokohama, Japan Municipal Fire Bureau) Hino Profia/Century 1040SDU wrecker. They use the wrecker for lifting heavy debris and vehicles someone may be trapped under more than they do recovering vehicles. It is a "rotator" meaning the boom can rotate 360 degrees, but since Tomica in designing it, didn't include outriggers or spades that could extend (and giving already, at the $8 price point, they crammed enough stuff on it already, there was no budget left), it will only lift heavier objects like the knife from the rear, else it will tip over with the wheel lift stabilizing it. But it can be displayed with the boom rotated 90 degrees, lifting or rolling over a lightweight plastic HO scale truck. Problem is that even in this position, the sturdiest for lifting, the boom wanted to lower on its own. So I had to act fast in taking the photos.
(http://i.imgur.com/ExM29NP.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ExM29NP)
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2014 Case Carhartt Wharncliffe Mini Trapper in "Rugged Duck" G-10. Hard to believe I waited about 4 years to buy this knife. They first appeared at Magic Mart, a local (now defunct) department store chain for $60, then $40, then at that price for years. This past summer, during the closing sale, I got it for $28. Interesting was that it was the only Case left at that point, when everything was just 30 percent off. Great grippy handle material and a strong half-stop. Problem is that like most Tru-Sharp Cases, I had to sharpen it out of the box. Considering getting another Mini Trapper, but there's just so many!
While watching Highway Thru H(e)ll tonight, I decided to rig it up to my Tomica Yokohama Super Ranger (an elite specialized urban search and rescue team attached to the Yokohama, Japan Municipal Fire Bureau) Hino Profia/Century 1040SDU wrecker. They use the wrecker for lifting heavy debris and vehicles someone may be trapped under more than they do recovering vehicles. It is a "rotator" meaning the boom can rotate 360 degrees, but since Tomica in designing it, didn't include outriggers or spades that could extend (and giving already, at the $8 price point, they crammed enough stuff on it already, there was no budget left), it will only lift heavier objects like the knife from the rear, else it will tip over with the wheel lift stabilizing it. But it can be displayed with the boom rotated 90 degrees, lifting or rolling over a lightweight plastic HO scale truck. Problem is that even in this position, the sturdiest for lifting, the boom wanted to lower on its own. So I had to act fast in taking the photos.
(http://i.imgur.com/ExM29NP.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ExM29NP)
:like:
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That's a sweet knife Cody! I'm a big Case fan, especially Trappers and Mini Trappers.
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Nice one cody :tu: :like:
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Case Pakkawood '65-69 6265 Folding Hunter and an unidentified Kaufmann. Kaufmann is well known for the Mercator knife, and this 3 3/4" closed knife uses similar construction, but does not have the "Black Cat" on it or a Mercator tang stamp, just "Kaufmann" and on the other side of the blade "SOLINGEN GERMANY". I presume others without advertising may have had the Black Cat; this one advertises a rope company. Coincidentally, that's not my main use. That's what the Spyderco Ladybug Salt is for.
Also Victorinox Silvertech Huntsman and Elliot Lucas C/1848 pliers with 1952 British Ministry of Defence mark. They're still in great shape (heck, the cutters, even worn cut better than many of my MTs new), only problem with these is some kind of residue (plaster?) spattered around. Problem is I think I'm a little too used to modern, compound leverage pliers.
(http://i.imgur.com/wiw04vF.jpg) (https://imgur.com/wiw04vF)
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Case Pakkawood '65-69 6265 Folding Hunter and an unidentified Kaufmann. Kaufmann is well known for the Mercator knife, and this 3 3/4" closed knife uses similar construction, but does not have the "Black Cat" on it or a Mercator tang stamp, just "Kaufmann" and on the other side of the blade "SOLINGEN GERMANY". I presume others without advertising may have had the Black Cat; this one advertises a rope company. Coincidentally, that's not my main use. That's what the Spyderco Ladybug Salt is for.
Also Victorinox Silvertech Huntsman and Elliot Lucas C/1848 pliers with 1952 British Ministry of Defence mark. They're still in great shape (heck, the cutters, even worn cut better than many of my MTs new), only problem with these is some kind of residue (plaster?) spattered around. Problem is I think I'm a little too used to modern, compound leverage pliers.
(http://i.imgur.com/wiw04vF.jpg) (https://imgur.com/wiw04vF)
Reckon that Case 6265 is sweet! Like those pliers also. :like:
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Nice information :tu: :like:
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Case Pakkawood '65-69 6265 Folding Hunter and an unidentified Kaufmann. Kaufmann is well known for the Mercator knife, and this 3 3/4" closed knife uses similar construction, but does not have the "Black Cat" on it or a Mercator tang stamp, just "Kaufmann" and on the other side of the blade "SOLINGEN GERMANY". I presume others without advertising may have had the Black Cat; this one advertises a rope company. Coincidentally, that's not my main use. That's what the Spyderco Ladybug Salt is for.
Also Victorinox Silvertech Huntsman and Elliot Lucas C/1848 pliers with 1952 British Ministry of Defence mark. They're still in great shape (heck, the cutters, even worn cut better than many of my MTs new), only problem with these is some kind of residue (plaster?) spattered around. Problem is I think I'm a little too used to modern, compound leverage pliers.
(http://i.imgur.com/wiw04vF.jpg) (https://imgur.com/wiw04vF)
Reckon that Case 6265 is sweet! Like those pliers also. :like:
It is! I sharpened it when I inherited it 2 years ago, and it hasn't needed another sharpening since. I don't know if it's the sabre grind or what, but it holds a great edge. The only real age problem is that when my great-uncle (the original owner) had it, he broke the tip of the skinning blade somehow (which might I add, being left handed, is the blade I use the most).
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Nice lineup!
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Some very interesting knives in this challenge so far cody :tu: :like:
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That Case Hunter is a real eye-catcher. :like: :tu:
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Case 2014 LT347 Tan Caliber Lightweight Stockman. Case seems to be discontinuing these a lot; as they don't sell well. I bought this one in mid-2018 along with a Muskrat from Shepherd Hills Cutlery, one of Case's biggest dealers, and yet still, it had that old stamp. And I can see why, the fit and finish is nowhere near the nicer Cases. And they don't have a good edge on them when you get 'em. But, at the $14-15 I've been picking up these Calibers, I think they're a true Rough Rider fighter in the market. I'm buying three more (another 47, the 18 Medium Stockman, and the 54 Trapper) at the same price when I have the funds. They're in pink camo, but I view these heavily discounted Calibers as a great Case to buy to use hard.
(http://i.imgur.com/gizwVft.jpg) (https://imgur.com/gizwVft)
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That’s not a bad price that
you have got them for cody :tu: :like:
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Which is exactly why I like them. A full size, USA made traditional pattern for under $20 USD? You can't go wrong! And they carry well, no matter what I'm wearing.
Chose Buck 110 LT "Shield (SK Blades exclusive) as the primary, but as the MT I chose the Wave to carry today, and since it has neither an awl nor a decent bottle opener, I added the Camillus Cub Scout Knife. This evening, I put the Kaufmann "Mini Mercator" in my sweatpants.
The 110LT was a gamechanger for me. Never again would I have to wear a sheath to carry the 110. And the CPM 154 steel really holds an edge. Not to mention, at just under $40 this special edition with a super steel came in at about the same, or a few bucks less than a standard 110. But I've got to get the tape residue off, especially given how bad it looks when corn dust from the sheep feed sticks to it. I like the small, slim Kaufmann more every time I carry it. It's thin and light. 3 3/4 closed is what I consider "ideal", and the tapered blade (thin at the tip, thick at the spine) is really nice. And whatever alloy of carbon steel they used (I presume C75) is great.
(http://i.imgur.com/Fw26PLd.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Fw26PLd)
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You're in good company 110 wise buddy! We're almost all 110 fans!
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You're in good company 110 wise buddy! We're almost all 110 fans!
:iagree: We certainly are :tu: :like:
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Great challenge Cody
:like:
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More or less, same as yesterday, though I swapped the 110LT for the LT347. But tonight, I carried the Carhartt Mini Trapper again.
The fixed blade I didn't carry, just had it out for photos in another thread. It was one of Granddad's deer hunting knives. The Edge Mark 460 was the smallest of a big line of Solingen made fixed blades they had, along with the 465, a hideous deer-hoof scaled knife that used the same blade. No sheath (Edge Marks had decent leather sheaths from the factory), but I had this Winchester that fit OK and used it. I don't mind that it's nylon, I just don't like the Velcro on the handle strap.
(http://i.imgur.com/wWYW3DQ.jpg) (https://imgur.com/wWYW3DQ)
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:like:
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Very nice :dd: :like:
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:iagree:
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Finally put the belt in the 1920s Singer treadle machine. I need to cinch the belt up just a bit more before I use it. I need a bit finer leather punch, and probably pulling out the belt before putting it in. THe manual said to use a nail and hammer, which works, but is hard to do with the belt already in.
Except for the hemostats (which as with most surgical instruments, are Pakistani), everything I used to work on it is proudly USA made, some from makers that either got bought out and outsourced (Crescent, Diamond) or no longer exist (Kraueter).
Case LT347.
(http://i.imgur.com/n6h4mXq.jpg) (https://imgur.com/n6h4mXq)
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Beautiful sewing machine !
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Finally put the belt in the 1920s Singer treadle machine. I need to cinch the belt up just a bit more before I use it. I need a bit finer leather punch, and probably pulling out the belt before putting it in. THe manual said to use a nail and hammer, which works, but is hard to do with the belt already in.
Except for the hemostats (which as with most surgical instruments, are Pakistani), everything I used to work on it is proudly USA made, some from makers that either got bought out and outsourced (Crescent, Diamond) or no longer exist (Kraueter).
Case LT347.
(http://i.imgur.com/n6h4mXq.jpg) (https://imgur.com/n6h4mXq)
Great looking machine :like:
My grandma has a old Singer with a broken belt. Where do you get a new or something that works? Would love to get it working for her again.
Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk
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Finally put the belt in the 1920s Singer treadle machine. I need to cinch the belt up just a bit more before I use it. I need a bit finer leather punch, and probably pulling out the belt before putting it in. THe manual said to use a nail and hammer, which works, but is hard to do with the belt already in.
Except for the hemostats (which as with most surgical instruments, are Pakistani), everything I used to work on it is proudly USA made, some from makers that either got bought out and outsourced (Crescent, Diamond) or no longer exist (Kraueter).
Case LT347.
(http://i.imgur.com/n6h4mXq.jpg) (https://imgur.com/n6h4mXq)
Great looking machine :like:
My grandma has a old Singer with a broken belt. Where do you get a new or something that works? Would love to get it working for her again.
Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk
The one I put in was purchased a couple years ago from a local sewing shop in town As her husband (who passed away several years before) was a Singer repairman, the lady who owns it tries to keep parts for older Singer machines in stock.And I'm sure the part wasn't new-old-stock. Ebay shows quite a few, ranging from $2-$12, most of the cheaper ships out of China. The odd thing is that the broken original belt was 1/4, the new one 5/16 (I pegged that on dry rot of the original), and some are also sold as 3/16 diameter This is US made and appears to be the same belting I used. Plus eBay has loads of parts should you need them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/72-Best-Leather-Industrial-SEWING-MACHINE-TREADLE-BELT-Singer-5-16-USA-MADE/200907409115?hash=item2ec703c6db:g:DUIAAMXQ01tRRhYq:sc:USPSFirstClass!24605!US!-1:rk:34:pf:0
I am curious myself about rubber possibly being a better option than leather, and might be experimenting a little with it. This is $8 for 10 ft. of 3/16, $10 for 1/4. Intended for conveyor drives. Plus this stuff can be fused together by melting, as opposed to having to struggle with the bent metal (hog ring?) staple like the original to hold the ends together. It's just I don't like having to have a heat source (i.e. lighter) around a 90 year old antique.
https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Urethane-Belting-Diameter-Length/dp/B006IZXI4G/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006IZXI4G&pd_rd_r=e0289dc2-153c-11e9-9e70-21c8e7351d14&pd_rd_w=622UD&pd_rd_wg=u53F8&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=VF3VW26DV2DBCHP90AMZ&psc=1&refRID=VF3VW26DV2DBCHP90AMZ
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I'm in the process of doing the same thing on a Singer from the teens. I like your post!!
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More great pics :like: and I love the old Singer 8) :like:
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Finally put the belt in the 1920s Singer treadle machine. I need to cinch the belt up just a bit more before I use it. I need a bit finer leather punch, and probably pulling out the belt before putting it in. THe manual said to use a nail and hammer, which works, but is hard to do with the belt already in.
Except for the hemostats (which as with most surgical instruments, are Pakistani), everything I used to work on it is proudly USA made, some from makers that either got bought out and outsourced (Crescent, Diamond) or no longer exist (Kraueter).
Case LT347.
(http://i.imgur.com/n6h4mXq.jpg) (https://imgur.com/n6h4mXq)
Great looking machine :like:
My grandma has a old Singer with a broken belt. Where do you get a new or something that works? Would love to get it working for her again.
Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk
The one I put in was purchased a couple years ago from a local sewing shop in town As her husband (who passed away several years before) was a Singer repairman, the lady who owns it tries to keep parts for older Singer machines in stock.And I'm sure the part wasn't new-old-stock. Ebay shows quite a few, ranging from $2-$12, most of the cheaper ships out of China. The odd thing is that the broken original belt was 1/4, the new one 5/16 (I pegged that on dry rot of the original), and some are also sold as 3/16 diameter This is US made and appears to be the same belting I used. Plus eBay has loads of parts should you need them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/72-Best-Leather-Industrial-SEWING-MACHINE-TREADLE-BELT-Singer-5-16-USA-MADE/200907409115?hash=item2ec703c6db:g:DUIAAMXQ01tRRhYq:sc:USPSFirstClass!24605!US!-1:rk:34:pf:0
I am curious myself about rubber possibly being a better option than leather, and might be experimenting a little with it. This is $8 for 10 ft. of 3/16, $10 for 1/4. Intended for conveyor drives. Plus this stuff can be fused together by melting, as opposed to having to struggle with the bent metal (hog ring?) staple like the original to hold the ends together. It's just I don't like having to have a heat source (i.e. lighter) around a 90 year old antique.
https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Urethane-Belting-Diameter-Length/dp/B006IZXI4G/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006IZXI4G&pd_rd_r=e0289dc2-153c-11e9-9e70-21c8e7351d14&pd_rd_w=622UD&pd_rd_wg=u53F8&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=VF3VW26DV2DBCHP90AMZ&psc=1&refRID=VF3VW26DV2DBCHP90AMZ
Thanks cody :cheers:
Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk
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Most of today I carried a Case 6488 Large Congress from 1976. Definitely has seen a ton of use. They stopped making it in 1978, with a few special runs (almost all stainless, and with fancy scales) up until just a few years back. On the other hand, this old horse is made for work, with Delrin scales, and carbon steel blades. Not to mention really strong springs and half-stops.While big, at 4 1/4 closed, I find the curvature fits my hand better than the standard Congress (of which I have two, both Bokers). Tarnished bolsters are from when it was in Granddad's collection. One Boker with celluloid scales outgassed, and made a mess. I asked for a few beaters in return for cleaning it up, this was one of them.
Also, this is one of the few Congress patterns (only other being Boker's Carver's Congress) that doesn't have two Sheepsfoot blades as mains (which I find redundant): Originally, the two larger blades were a spear and sheepsfoot, with the smaller being coping (small sheepsfoot) and pen. 42 years of wear and tear has all made them hawkbill blades!
(http://i.imgur.com/hMwTH4T.jpg) (https://imgur.com/hMwTH4T)
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Nice honest wear on that one. :tu:
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Great information :tu: :like:
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EKA Gentleman's Knife. Advertises pump manufacturer Flygt. Virtually unused when I bought it. I have a theory that 3/4 of the knives people get from company reps and/or as production/safety awards throughout their career get thrown in a drawer or put with a collection and never see the light of day. My Granddad was the same. Of those he got, I think he only regularly used one or two.
(http://i.imgur.com/QD3wcsK.jpg) (https://imgur.com/QD3wcsK)
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I love the detail on the scales :dd: :like:
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I love the detail on the scales :dd: :like:
In part, that's why I got it. Also at the time, it was the cheapest EKA on eBay at the time.
Today I didn't do much but the basic chores. I mostly carried the Camillus Cub Scout, with the 110LT Shield in my farm coat. Took this photo in front of the fireplace while sitting around doing nothing.
(http://i.imgur.com/gKp1UC1.jpg) (https://imgur.com/gKp1UC1)
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:like: :tu:
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Couple nice knives last couple days :salute: :like:
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I pretty much just carried the Shield today, even around the house. So far, the CPM-154 has proven to be an excellent steel, despite heavy duty use, barely losing any of its excellent sharpness.
(http://i.imgur.com/R6o0Biv.jpg) (https://imgur.com/R6o0Biv)
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Nice Buck knife :tu: :like:
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Sabre Monarch USA 231 (Schrade Walden for Cole International). Same pattern as the 881/8OT. You don't see too many of these Schrade and Ulster-made Sabres; which were some of the first Monarchs. I've only seen 3, a Jack, a Slimline Trapper, and my Stockman.
(http://i.imgur.com/6OcyaJH.jpg) (https://imgur.com/6OcyaJH)
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:like: :tu:
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+1 :like: :like: :tu:
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Mikov Rybica (Little Fish). Apparently, a knife traditionally given to Czech boys for over a century. Czech made; with zamac handles and a 420 blade. These are rather inexpensive, and cheaply built, selling for about $3 in the Czech Republic, and $5-6 here. 3" closed (small, and I often carry knives this size, but they are all lockbacks with broader blades), but decently made for such a cheap knife. Time will tell how well their steel is. This is a precursor to nicer, better made Mikov products, just to test their quality. And I really enjoy collecting what each country calls it's own "traditional" pattern. I think next two are a Douk-Douk and a Higonogami.
(http://i.imgur.com/4iGQ46U.jpg) (https://imgur.com/4iGQ46U)
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Great job Cody!
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Cool little knife :tu: :like:
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Opinel No. 9 DIY. I But I really like this "Cable Master" type; the wire strippers and cutter work well, and so do the bit drivers. I'd like to see carbon steel Opinels with the same handle material. Had to replace the Phillips bit, lost it. I also customized the flat head driver, moving up to the size typically found on switchplate covers. I'll try to find a T-27 bit for Stihl equipment to replace the flat bit entirely (rarely use it), as I never have one when I need it, and end up settling for the common T-25.
(http://i.imgur.com/HxZl8hd.jpg) (https://imgur.com/HxZl8hd)
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I have the gray version and really like it. About the only thing I use the straight bit for I'd outlet covers. I'd lost my Philips head but they're easily replaced. Can't beat that blade!
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More great knives cody :cheers: :like: I like the little fish knife since it is a boys knife and never have heard of the history of that knife :tu:
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Kamp King. I have a newer one as well, just don't carry it much becuase it's bigger, chunkier, and just feels cheap (thinking it's a 1970s version). This is older, I'm thinking from the 1950s or 60s? The blade steel is great, and takes a nice edge quick. Now I'm hoping I can finally find a Super Kamp King (adds two tools; a pen blade and Imperial's church key or "pop opener"). Kamp Kings are inexpensive, but by far not "cheap".
(http://i.imgur.com/8arOYIi.jpg) (https://imgur.com/8arOYIi)
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I've got one too, and it's incredibly sharp!
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Nice one cody ! While Later Imperial knives shell construction was cheap their blade steel was not. Great carbon steel blades :tu:
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Excellent challenge cody :cheers: :like:
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Camillus Cub Scout.
(http://i.imgur.com/W2Ye1LQ.jpg) (https://imgur.com/W2Ye1LQ)
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:tu: :like:
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Nice ones cody :tu: :like:
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:tu: :like:
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Shield again.
(http://i.imgur.com/8EtZdKy.jpg) (https://imgur.com/8EtZdKy)
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:like:
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Me too!
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:like: :tu:
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Lot of good in that pic, cody :like:
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Opinel DIY. Today's plans was to move some furniture around, and pack some stuff up on the shelves. Thus, I figured the DIY was just what the job needed. Ended up spending the whole day in front of the fireplace; while watching a mixture of Night Court and James Bond on TV.
(http://i.imgur.com/L301E5f.jpg) (https://imgur.com/L301E5f)
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It really is an awesome knife isn't it? My son introduced me to the world of Opinel and now it's one of my favorite knives.
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That is one of the best looking
Opinel knives I have seen :dd: :like:
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Today I decided to try something different for a change. Except here in the Southwest Virginia coalfields, it is by far the most ubiquitous folder. This one (like what, my fourth?!) came in a lot of used knives recently, and was very seriously considering giving this one away, but it was new (with a sharp factory edge), so I decided just to carry it. And, it's also my only good Klein, the others have years of use and abuse behind them from in the coalfields; and figure that like their original owners, it's time to retire. Granddad retired 20 years ago, his hawkbill, last year with me.
Klein Tools 1550-4 Hawkbill and LF&C Wharncliffe
(http://i.imgur.com/b8Ckv53.jpg) (https://imgur.com/b8Ckv53)
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:like: :like:
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+1 :like: :like: :like:
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I'm normally opposed to Chinese blades, but Rough Riders are extremely good value for the money, especially with patterns that are out of circulation with other makers, or are expensive.
The RR603 is sold as a "Large" Stockman, but at 4 1/4 is a "Jumbo". The Sabre is a 4" Large for comparison.
Rough Rider RR603 Large Stockman.
(http://i.imgur.com/ztRqDX0.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ztRqDX0)
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Nice looking knives :like: :tu:
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DIY today again. I actually used both bits, and the blade. My recommendation, is always use "impact rated" bits for your MT. I got in a swearing fit involving a heat vent, and I ended up having to put the Phillips in my drill to get the job done (and it's a 1/2 Hitachi electric, which can drill through concrete). When I lost the original, I used one from my folks' drill bit case (which Dewalt, in their bit sets, usually includes like 10 No. 2 Phillips bits).
I used the blade to cut zip ties (I put another headboard we had handy on my bed frame, and it didn't have the correct mounting holes, so I zip-tied it on, I also used them to run the heated blanket cable down the side of the bed frame; also used some smaller ones to run alarm clock and heated blanket cord together). Even cutting those heavy duty zip ties, the Sandvik 12C27 steel held up. I like the carbon steel Opinels, but the Sandvik "Inox" is even better. Anyone know how hard 12C27 will be to sharpen?
(https://i.imgur.com/OJaRk1N.jpg)
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Kamp King today.
(https://i.imgur.com/BsnqYwm.jpg)
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:like: :tu:
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Excellent challenge cody :cheers: :like:
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Even cutting those heavy duty zip ties, the Sandvik 12C27 steel held up. I like the carbon steel Opinels, but the Sandvik "Inox" is even better. Anyone know how hard 12C27 will be to sharpen?
(https://i.imgur.com/OJaRk1N.jpg)
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It's a fairly low carbon stainless not that different than 440A, so it will be easy to sharpen.
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More great pics and carries, cody :cheers: :like: Not many more days left in this challenge now :tu:
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Mine sharpens like a champ! Combined with a bit kit and you can be unstoppable!
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Glad to hear Sandvik isn't that hard to sharpen. Barry, I do need to assemble a bit kit for the DIY, especially when I'm using T-27 for Stihl and assorted hex bits often. I impulse bought one for $1 (all Phillips and flat bits) from a grocery store, but it's not of good quality. You use those bits once, and they wear out right then.
Case Carhartt Mini Trapper. Also kept the 12 with me, but didn't actually carry it; aside from my room to the kitchen.
(https://i.imgur.com/gxW9kDt.jpg)
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Nice one cody :tu: :like:
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:iagree:
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The Mini Trapper bit me pretty bad today. Closed the blade on the webbing between my left index finger and thumb, which wasn't bad, until I tore it deeper trying to open the knife off my hand. It's a short cut (1/4 or less) but deep. I may need to pick up some liquid stitches; but a 1x3" Band-Aid is working fine. Oh well, one of the drawbacks of a strong spring, I guess. One thing I"ve noticed--I seem to get the webbing of my hand cut while closing a blade right in that area more than any other cut.
(https://i.imgur.com/zQeBO05.jpg)
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:ahhh Be careful cody :o hope it heals up fast :salute: great knife though :whistle: :D
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It seems to be the way it goes in this hobby... I've my share of scars! :facepalm:
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Sorry to hear that you got your finger caught on your knife cody :(
Hopefully it will heal up soon :tu:
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Yep, part of the hazards on our hobby, hope it heals quick !
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Yep, part of the hazards on our hobby, hope it heals quick !
Thanks. It's already starting to heal up, a scab has already formed. But I'm sure it will leave a scar.
In part, as a result of yesterday's misfortune, chose something with a bit softer spring, the Camillus Cub Scout. That and it has an awl, which the Wave lacks.
(http://i.imgur.com/sB8NfZe.jpg) (https://imgur.com/sB8NfZe)
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Glad to hear that it’s already got a scab cody
hopefully it won’t be long before it’s healed :tu:
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Case LT347 again. Used the spey blade quite a bit peeling oranges--probably my only regular use for that blade. Still hoping Case either comes out with them in yellow again (I think this was an SFO for use as a promotional item) or uses my suggestion of the same high-viz orange Zytel the fixed blades have.
(https://i.imgur.com/iZQBUTh.jpg)
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Camillus 1047 Boy Scout Whittler (a version of the 72 Carpenter's Whittler). My first 72, but not my last. I always think finding one of a particular pattern will stop me from looking, but for some odd reason, I keep looking for more. I'm getting at least a Yello-Jaket version, a few older bone ones, and a couple to have some nicer scale material put on.
(https://i.imgur.com/qsLC2WP.jpg?1)
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Nice Whittler :like:
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:iagree:
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Very nice :like: :tu:
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With the winter vortex, I've been utilizing the Shield heavily, And planning next week's Harbor Freight run. Sure, their stuff is not up to par with USA made stuff (or even Kobalt which I hold to the same level as most HFT stuff; apparently some Kobalt stuff was USA made at one point, but I ain't seen a single one in my 22 years; including 17 of going to our current and former Lowe's location), but it's great for cheap, semi-disposable tools, stuff to loan out to idiots, and to assemble task-specific kits (i.e. model kit building) with. And really, some of it isn't too bad; I have a Pittsburgh "Anti Shock" rip hammer I got for $8 from there I use regularly for fencing and I love it.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hmr3X10.jpg)
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I have an old Pittsburgh straight edge screwdriver I picked up to repair my bus almost 20 years ago that has outlasted a pile of better name tools.
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:like: :tu:
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All I can say is that this was truly an enjoyable challenge. My original plan was to carry a different knife every day. Instead, I ended up finding a few favorites (Kaufmann, 110LT, Opinel DIY, Case Mini Trapper and Lightweight Stockman) that I liked quite well, and carried regularly; with a few knives that seldom see use mixed in. Tommorrow, I start the Tough Tool challenge. During it, I will try to focus on Schrade USA knives to complement the Tough Tool (which itself is a USA made model).
This morning, I carried the Kaufmann first thing, but misplaced it. Grabbed this little Sheffield-made penknife to replace it until I could find that Kaufmann. The tang stamp is "STAINLESS SHEFFIELD ENGLAND"; no hint of a maker. My assumption is either Ibberson or John Watts. Advertises the "Asbestos and Rubber Company" located at Hull and Ossett, Glasgow (and they're still in business as ARCO, probably no longer dealing in asbestos :D) It's super thin, and you can't even tell it's in your pocket.
(https://i.imgur.com/jM6mAQg.jpg)
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Great challenge :hatsoff: Really enjoyed following it :like:
Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk
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Badge awarded ! :cheers:
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Congrats and great Challenge!!
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Congratulations on your badge and
this has been a excellent challenge cody :cheers: :like: :tu:
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Congratulations on your badge and
this has been a excellent challenge cody :cheers: :like: :tu:
:iagree: :like: Nice challenge for the books right here :tu:
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Congrats on the badge Cody :tu:
Guess we'll see you tomorrow over in the Tough Tool Challenge :cheers:
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Thanks guys! I got started on the Tough Tool challenge today.
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Good luck with the TT challenge cody :tu: :like: